Ivylog

Do you have the 330 keypad? If so, you have a $1000 Silverleaf VMS 330 engine monitor system. I like the one I installed in my 08 Navigator here; https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/installing-a-silverleaf-vms333-in-08-navigator-398067.html Here’s the manual: https://www.silverleafelectronics.com/sites/default/files/2019-10/VMS 330 Owner Manual.pdf

Need to make sure where the leak is… could be as simple as a loose fitting. ATF oil is fairly cheap and it’s actually good to not stop trying to move the hydraulic slide after it stops moving. Try moving the slide out for several seconds, even though it’s already out… check for location of the leak at the same time. Then try moving the slide in, even pushing on the side that doesn’t want to move. Again keep trying to retract after it stops moving. Every 1 in 10 times it’s good to keep the switch on after the hydraulic slide stops moving

We love our 2004 Signature but were hoping one day for a newer one. I lucked out with a early 08 Navigator… bought before learning of this disaster 5 years ago. Would have sold it 2 years ago at a good profit if it had the “K” system. On another forum I cringe when someone posts they just bought a 09 Dynasty or above. Do you post ”Should of joined before buying!”?

It’s been 4 years since I ran a voltage drop test. Today I have battery voltage meters inside and 2 Lithium banks 20’ apart. The voltage difference between the 2 is higher than I’d like…0.3 at 50 amps. The readings below are at the batteries closest to the inverter. Unfortunately the inverter display is only in 1/10 of a amp. Charging Amps is 118 but only 55 into the first battery bank. Amps. Display. Difference Battery 0 amps 12.9 0.2 13.08 -145. 11.5 0.8 12.33 +55 13.6 0.1 13.46 Going to run a longer test tonight and try finding the bad connections using a IR temp gun.

Even after cleaning and tightening multiple connections I still have a difference in voltages. Just use the differences on the note below. Side note: While on shore power I use the AGM2 setting to charge my Lithiums as it doesn’t recharge until about 40% SOC.

So, the R blinker works until you turn on the headlights? You have a bad ground as It’s getting a ground through the headlight until you turn it on is my educated guess.

You can forget Ystone and even the Tetons (if you can get there) very cold currently. Moab and Zion look a lot better but still cold at night…no crowds. Not many “hot spots” this early.

08 Nav has 2 fuses in the FRB…L & R. At the back of the chair you should have a plug with 12V power. After the plug the 12V splits to the various functions.

Yes, I put 169.9 in it because the 150 amount is to the bottom of the short fill nipple…BUT it’s 1.5” lower than the top of the tank. By leaning the MH away from you, a fair amount of the top of tank is lower than the bottom of the nipple. If the tank was completely empty looks like you could put 25 more…175 gallons and NO, I didn’t spill any.

Brochure says 150 gallons

Since you already have a new muffler, there should be a connection under the motor. Take the broken pieces off and weld a slightly large diameter pipe over the broken area. Exact length (looks like 4”) and orientation isn’t critical.

I recently had to tighten the spring with the fabric on. Used a small vise grip on the wheel/end and got 13 turns and then put a nail in to hold it. Make sure you can pull the nail out after putting everything back together.

Agree buying vehicles at Copart can be a big risk, even if you inspect before bidding. The only ones I’ll buy without inspecting first are hail damaged as there’s a good possibility they we’re running before the dents, but the dents can be worse than in the pictures. Still driving a 4X4 Ford PU with dents in the hood (looks worse if you wax) that’s still worth what I paid 8 years ago. Now the one I made out of 2 wrecks took more work than anticipated… lots of little things broken.

Pretty sure our ECM is not cooled by the fuel. Hotter fuel will get better atomization when it’s injected. Better atomization results in better/more complete combustion. Doubt I’ll change my ways because of “hot fuel”. Just my 1 cent.

Hey, at least we now know the 150 gallons tank will hold 170 gallons! Guess I’m a slow learner… should of wised up when I put a 160 gallons in a couple summers ago.

“Motor Home blocks 2 lanes on I-75 northbound”. While coming down a hill to a stop, my ISX stumbled and shuts down. Unable to get to the shoulder and engine will not restart. Turned key off and back on (all engine functions normal) and waited a minute (lift pump runs for 2 minutes) and after 10 seconds of turning over it starts and I’m able to get going. Mile further north there’s a small pull off and I check for a fuel leak and immediately get fuel on my hand when I drain the primary fuel filter… no water. Go another 50 miles and under the same circumstances (downhill and stopping) it dies again. Was able to get out of traffic this time and after cycling the key several times (3-4 minutes of lift pump) it starts and I head to the nearest fuel station and put 169.9 gallons in my 150 gallon tank my leaning the MH which I do when ever I fill (160 gallons was my previous best). Yes, my fuel gauge showed 1/4 (has been fairly accurate) but I always reset the trips and rely on miles… 900 miles being when I put in 160 gallons out West. Trip display (picture below) has been fairly accurate over the 35K miles I’ve put on it and I was 22 miles from home where I was planning on filling. No AquaHot diesel usage and less than 10 hours of generator (5gallons) but I’m missing 35 gallons…not likely at our fenced and gated Snowbird park. My point in this is IF your engine stumbles, especially when downhill to a stop, go to the nearest gas station. My fuel pickup is on the right side 3/4th of the way back letting it suck air when low on fuel and downhill stopping. Unlike a Cat, the Cummins will cycle/pump fuel getting the air out. With a Cat engine I would’ve made the news as most don’t have a hand primming pump. Yes, it’s my fault not filling up sooner, but I should’ve made it home with 35 gallons to spare. HATE to think I need locking fuel doors when Snowbirding.

Because of the battery compartment size it’s easier to go back with 4 L16s batteries, although I replaced mine with 8 100AH 12V AGMs… took a handful of cables. The EVL16 is a deep cycle but more suited for an electric forklift… 1250 CCA. If you search “Solar L-16 batteries” most are lead acid

EBay 6” wide.

Or he didn’t want to hear negative comments on doing this plus the decrease in the value of his rig and having to cut holes in it for the vents. I have one in northern GA with a Amish cooling unit and ARP controller collecting dust.

Well this is a first! Yes, we own energy hogs that use 15 to 20 amps DC when dry camping. A residential is 8 of those amps, but only 40% of the time. You can decrease 10 amps by turning off the bottom GFI in the inverter panel when you go to bed… kills all the AV stuff. The best $180 you can spend is on an additional 100 amp charger to decrease your generator run time. Power it off the block heater outlet. Have you thought about the 2 vent holes you’ll have to cut in your slide to vent a 1210? Even a new one is still a fire hazard. I put way too many $$ into keeping a 1200 going before wising up.

More than double what the refrigerator needs and it’s a MSW inverter. The microwave will use 3/4th of its power. If it wasn’t a Samsung, then another smaller PSW inverter would be a good idea to power a refrigerator with the more normal AC motor/compressor.

Likely a Magnum ME2012

114 plus or minus 6. Hopefully on the plus side.

Should have asked which inverter you have??? I leave mine on all the time but it only inverts when there’s no 120 power into it. When there’s 130V power it passes the power through to the microwave, some outlets (TV) and to the refrigerator because it’s plugged into the outlet from the inverter. A Samsung has a DC compressor so it runs well on a MSW.