Just Jim

Hey Tom... looking at that chart it looks like it says change the fluid every 48 months, but the filter every 36 months. Unless you are reusing the fluid when you change the filters that seems pretty illogical. Even then you have to change the fluid after just 12 more months. Not sure why they would even have a fluid change recommendation with a different time schedule for the filters??? What am I missing here?

Following this thread now that I'm thinking of building a shop/RV garage. My research has suggested that 30 feet wide is less costly. Going to go with 16 foot sides in order to add a second story to part of it for storage. Also, hoping to have a 14 foot door front and back so that I can just pull straight through. Love the many ideas I've found in this thread. Also, it appears that the Knoxville, TN area is a hub for several of us... I'm not retired yet, but more than willing to help out any of you guys that have a project that needs another set of hands.

Thanks Richard, There are a couple I can't find on Amazon... so will have to shop around for them at least. That is what made me curious what everyone else does.

Hi, I'm getting ready to do annual maintenance on the engine, genset and aqua hot. I'm just curious where you buy the filters/fluids from? Is there one place that has decent prices and shipping or do you buy at a local parts store?

Thanks for the info. I would prefer to have 2 higher wattage panels rather than 4 lower wattage panels. Do you think you could have used 2 350 watt panels to get your 700 watts instead of the four panels?

So... I'm coming back around to this upgrade again. I have a trip coming up in May where I'm going to be unplugged for at least a week and would like to get the solar upgraded to handle the parasitic drain on the batteries. The manual says that the existing controller can handle 4 85watt panels. My hair brain question is... if I find used 100 watt panels do you think the degradation of being used would make them compatible with that controller. I'm thinking I would replace the existing panel and install four of the same type under that scenario. And.... an alternate question as I don't really like the idea of having 4 panels... could I install a single 300 watt panel or 2 150 watt panels? In other words the controller is rated for 4 x 85 watts, does it have to be 4 panels to make up a total wattage or can I stay under 340 watts and use fewer panels? Lastly, IF I went the route of a new controller and panels, would it be as simple as wiring the new controller into where the existing one is... and adding a couple of 300-400 watt panels on the roof? The existing wiring would be sufficient???? Thanks in advance. I'm really leaning toward the new controller and panels, I'm just afraid of having to run new larger gauge wiring through some of those tight spaces. Jim

I am looking for a bottom section of the ladder. Not sure it would match though. Pictures?

Most of the jack pumps I've seen are in the front of the coach, but I'm not familiar with your particular vehicle. Perhaps someone that has experience with your coach will chime in. If you turn on the system and have someone press a button you may hear the pump running and can track it down. Fixing peeling clear coat can be very difficult. The paint is not very thick and difficult to sand down in order to re apply the clear coat.

yep... seems like a pretty useless link. It appears to be a private group.

Thanks Mike, I'll have to do a search for a "hush box"... no telling what kind of info I'll get. LOL

Yes. I use one too

I understand... that is what thought. I think it would be ok for a while. Doubtful that the water would evaporate with no open facet. I had a Suburban WH in my old coach and never got it to work on electric. I like to dry camp so I really preferred the propane anyway.

If this is one of the propane water heaters and not an Aqua Hot, then the answer is yes I think.... if the tank is empty. I don't think this is a problem if you still have water in the system, but have the pump off. A little more info would be helpful as to the type of system and the current state of water in it. Was the heater left on by mistake??? Not sure of the situation.

I'm sure some of the noise is the inherent diesel sounds, but there is considerable noise from the exhaust pipe as well. Again just curious if anyone has ever tried to quiet it down with a different muffler. Next time I'm camping and find a really quiet one, I'm going to ask the owner what kind of generator it is...

I have a "quiet diesel" 10k Onan that actually is not really all that quiet. While camping I've noticed other generators that are very quiet and I'm just curious if anyone has replaced the muffler in order to get a quieter experience? This is a low priority modification as I've got much bigger "fish to fry" as the saying goes, but again was just curious if this was a project I could at least put on the agenda.

any idea if this headlight assembly would also fit the 2003 Executive? Thanks

Do a good search of this forum. I recall a discussion a while back of how to re-wire the plugs... it was related to the Bluefire system but that does not really matter but may help you locate the thread that had instructions on how someone else had done this. My fairly good memory does not remember anything to do with the triptek... it had to do with the wires from the old J1708 and adding a couple to it from the transmission harness to create the J1939 plug... (I think). Let me know if you can't find it and I'll search for it.

Do a search... this subject is pretty well documented. My personal opinion is if you have a good rebuilder locally, then go that route. It is a really odd system and many alternator specialists still will not be able to wire it properly if you go the replacement route.

I'm surprised your title indicates a Dynasty... my 95 was listed as "roadmaster", because that was the chassis.

Finally, getting back to some maintenance items and dropped the decorative cover to clean the HVAC filters. The filters/screens were attached with a sheet rock screw at the corners which allowed the filters to hang down with fairly large gaps on the sides. So, 1st question (this does not appear to be how they were originally installed...) how should they be put back in so that they actually filter the incoming air? 2nd question, are they actually needed? I saw where some said they had removed them to increase air flow. I read my manual and it says that the heat pump would work down to 30 degrees or so then switch to Aux heat which would be the aqua hot. I tried that yesterday... turned on the heat pump and it ran and was providing heat... however the aqua hot ran continuously (left it on for about 40 minutes) but no heat coming from the exchangers as it was set on heat pump. The manual indicates that the aqua hot button has to be on for aux heat to work. I assume the aqua hot would only light when it needed to provide heat??? Anyone have experience with this? I don't mind living the heat pumps on with the temp set at 50 or so... and having the aqua hot come on to provide heat when outside temps drop below 30... but having the aqua hot running constantly is not acceptable. I have drained the water tank. I assume it is ok to run the aqua hot with no potable water in the plumbing lines? Hopefully, I'll eventually get this stuff figured out... Thanks

I used this company for my captain's chairs. They have a multitude of colors. https://www.leathermagic.com/

Do you mean the "window sticker" or the build sheet? I found the build sheet in my Monaco plastic binders and I requested the original window sticker and got it back in a couple hours. I did not know that the build sheet could be provided???

I don't think there is any difference in the actual towers... the young person at the T Mobile store with multiple hair colors and additional holes in the head told me that the home unit is just basically a really big antenna.... much larger than what you would have in a small cell phone.

same here with the T mobile wireless. It is easy to use and fairly cheap. I have T mobile phones so I had a good idea of the coverage in my area.

I replaced the blades a couple of months ago, but had not had a chance to actually drive in the rain. I don't remember the length I used, but will check. The arms are tight as best I can tell.... it just seems to have a lot of sloppy movement when they go across the window and then make a slapping sound on the drivers side when it gets to the end of its movement and starts back down. Is there a way to adjust how far they travel?