MyronTruex

I play a game I call (20 questions), that is telling a customer that I will be asking them a lot of questions and seemingly the same ones, however slightly different, not because I forgot their answer. Unlike many service centers, I endouraged customers for be right there and sometimes even helping chase things down, especially intermittents. Teasing the customers and asking if I had to beat information out of them I would. While asking the same question for the third or fourth time, no immediately in sequence, they would elicit some piece of information that seemed to them to be useless. You just gave a very important clue. Banging on the steering wheel causing it to work surely leads me to a loose connection. This also mostly eliminates any issues in other compartments. That will be $500 please. $5 for hitting it, $495 for knowing where to hit it. Based on inputs over the years I remember folks having trouble installing clock rings properly. Having a front end alignment the tech popped my steering wheel cover right off. I grittet my teeth a bit. However this tech had me sitting right next to him all through the process. This gave me great confidence in his expertise. So perhaps your installation techniques have not been perfected, or some little plastic tab broke and you don't see it.f If you are ever in the Orlando area, Josams is the place to take it. I would ask them to just check the installation of the clock ring. This would then eliminate any issues there. I think I would be getting kind of physical with the steering column. Not driving of course. I mean I would be doing some serious (qualified tech), bashing around. Tugging and possibly using the proper words to encourage it to give up its secrets.

Intermittent issues are the bane of an electronic tech. I told customers experiencing them to drive into my parking lot slowly. There is a small gutter but the simple bump could clear their issue. Happened too many times to remember. Getting voltage measurements upstream and downstream while it is working is important. These measurements should be easy to access without tugging and pulling. Even if it means attaching a wire and bringing it out to a place you can test. This of course done when things are working. If there are plugs such as molex plugs and sockets they can be problem. They can often be tightened up a bit using a thin blade of some sort. This is a shotgun approach of course and not advised unless the problem has cleared because of the parking lot bump.

If you are changing a part out multiple times and it seems to clear the issue temporarily, you are likely bumping or tugging on something while changing it. It is hard to fathom a part would fail four times.

I would not rely on using an ohmeter to check a breaker. The breaker needs to be under load. A wire the size of a hair will read zero ohms, but won't carry a load of course. I know it is more dangerous to measure live wires but you can add some safety measures. Like taping up all but the tip of your meter. Wearing some simple rubber gloves in case of a momentary slip. Or course standing on insulations such as carpet really helps inside. With your pictures, see if you can edit them to add your readings. Then things should be very clear. Have you made any modifications or repairs in the last six months???

I suspect you have several relays associated with the system. They are likely in the front run bay. Follow the wiring from the headlights physically as much as you can. Take some pictures of your frb so folks can come up with ideas quicker. Once you find the relays it should be easy enough to check for the control pin of the relays. Etc.

Bruce, you probably can find those relays and having them on hand at least could give you some peace of mind. However, they lasted this long and probably will last the rest of the life of the RV. I believe I remember your thread on your issue.

Bob, my concern about that solenoid is that you could have dead house batteries or engine battery if you have some sort of bi-directional control over that relay. I don't want to steer your current issue off track. Pull the battery lock out relay and see if the dash lights go out! If they do, I surely would replace the relay. Heck, replace it anyway. I know it is crazy, but it is not uncommon to have more than one problem. You could have a problem in and around the shift panel as you found wiggling wires. If your schematic is at all usable, finding a few places you can take readings with a voltmeter or test light so you can get to them quickly if the problem presents itself again.

Sorry but can't help on that component. However, the large solenoid to the bottom left appears to need some serious cleaning. Or replacing and cleaning.

Jeff, no joy on opening the links.

You can probably snip the wires off the controller and connect to a 12 volt source. Take a look at the transformer for possible clues.

My Monroes did not last 20K miles. I bet you can compress and extend those easily.

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction. I have heard of plenty of ignition switches changed over the years. You might be able to download a schematic for the ignition switch and see if voltage is getting through but you might be able to source a new one quickly and just swap it out.

My safe-t-plus joined the landfill after installing the TRW and Watts. I had a home built trim system that worked well but the added pressure of steering was a bit of a pain. I have not missed it.

Have you used a voltmeter on/in one of the sockets? If no voltage, have you put the meter in the continuity/beep mode if it has it to see if it beeps on one of the pins? This would indicate a working ground. Hopefully.

Did you run the wire yourself? Chasing a door awning issue for years and changing what appeared to be a defective motor twice I found the feed wire had a problem. The voltage would drop on occassion and not be enough to initiate the opening or closing. Running a new wire was a chore but had to be done, leaving the old one behind. Do you have a bulkhead connector on the outside?

They are a work of art for sure and built like railroad tracks. Solid. Did you or can you change your steering box? My buddy has one of those years/models that there is not a direct replacement for.

Here you go Barry.

GUMPS

Good call. Glad. you got it fixed. Now to find the other two things that broke that day. Can't have just one failure.

My Whirlpool very closely resembles the old unit. Side by side with water and ice in the left door. I took some creative engineering to install it but I have been very happy with it. I have never run it on inverter so don't know if it would survive on the modified sine wave of the Magnum. I wish I had upgraded when my old one died. I can go down the road four hours and the refer stays cold enough and the freezer hardly budges. Running the generator while cruising to run the air conditioners or to just make some hot lunch I leave it run for an hour or so.

The WR57x111 is on our Dometic double door with ice and water in the door. Turns out this is a GE part too. The WRX part number was on the side of the part. The ice maker solenoid was leaking water into the freezer and building ice dams. Note: We have since replaced our 1402 and love the residential unit. Chasing ice maker problems in the 1402 many many times and other complex problems just left me ready for the saws all. Which was handy getting the incredibly heavy thing out the door. The new light weight refer came through the drivers window. dometic_rm7030_7732SM and ICE Maker.pdf Ice cube tray.pdf Ice maker Repair.pdf ice maker schematic.pdf Ice maker troubleshooting.pdf Refer water valve.pdf

Are you running the generator at the same time? Do you have solar panels? With new house batteries, their happy place is likely a higher voltage than the old worn out ones. With this happy state they get full and don't pull much from a charging source. If your batteries are being combined (via any device), while you are driving and have a second source of charging such as solar or the generator running and driving the onboard charger, you can have the alt alarm come on. Connected to shoreline, my charging system for the batteries is charging the engine batteries as well. Starting the engine and after things calm down the alternator is blasting out its capacity and the two charging voltages collide some how and confuse the Alternator fault circuitry. Turning on headlights often will calm things down. Often RV's have a setup that when the generator is running and the alternator is running the battery banks are isloated from each other. This isolation does not occur when on shoreline. In any case, as Tom suggests, you likely do not have a real problem. Just an annoyance. That's what you get for installing new batteries.

intellitec ems service manual.pdf Page 13 says to check the fuse on the board that lies on its side inside the AC breaker panel. Its a simple blade fuse. The files shows a 3 amp but the color of the fuse and marking should tell you for sure.

Your AC breaker panel is probably located in the closet on the left side and is above the water heater. Access to the wh is via the closet and a cover to access the wh. There is virtually no air circulation inside the closet and the AC breaker panel can get very hot especially with the radiated heat from the water heater living below it. There has been times when I had to open the closet and turn a cooling vent onto the panel to keep one of the air conditoners from tripping. The panel gets so hot the breaker will begin to trip and a lower current. I have a solution for this but will not share it right now.

We have a 2008 40 SKQ Endeavor so should be a sister ship. Your charger appears to be working just fine based on the voltage showing. The current is likely just what is in demand by twelve volt systems. The EMS system, which I have tons of diagrams on can be a bit complex and confusing. I will need to look into the schematics and manuals to find out why it is not lit. It should be of course. The water heater is powered via a 12 volt controlled switch that sends a signal to the water heater where it goes into a box that has a relay that passes the 120 volts needed to power the heating element. The 120 volts that feeds the water heater comes from the AC breaker panel in the closet. It comes via the main breaker, then to an individual breaker, then on to a relay board mounted inside the AC breaker panel. This relay is the load shedding relay for that circuit. There are multiple relays on that board. This board should only be in use during 30 amp service. It is basically sitting idle when you have 50 amps as you do now. It is easy enough to measure the voltage coming from the main breaker into that board and then onto the water heater. One needs to know how to use a voltmeter safely of course. The board has a fuse or two as I recall that run the electronics on it. So finding the cause of the dead panel may bring the water heater voltage back online. Your tech should be familiar with the EMS or find one that is. I will gladly share my documents etc.