MyronTruex

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzJ0-r_QE4o Watch this video to find out why your old one may not work now. In a moment, I will find a link to a ton of information you can review and come to a better understanding of your yours work. I'm not a fan of the remote sensor but it does make sense in many applications to assure the proper voltage is at the batteries. Long runs and tired connections can cause the voltage to be a bit low for proper charging. The remote sensor looks at the batteries very closely, much as you would with a voltmeter, then compensates for the reading it senses. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xgfJOjqvaRe3is_tAqQ?e=E0CZ0q Check these files out.

Looks like the leveling jack container to me as well. Only fill when the jacks are up or it will overfill. Mine always seemed to have some spillage/dirt colleting until cleaning it spotless one day and placing a small bead of silicon around the fill plug. Not against it or connected to it. Just kind of made a round dam and things do not seem to get all greasy any more.

To lose all of the functions on the plug is not likely related with anything you were doing. Making an assumption here that you have tested both battery banks to see that they are charge? Start the rv and give it a couple of minutes. Then test both large terminals on the old solenoid you put back in place. The reason or goal is to be sure you have power to the relays involved with the plug. The ground could be a separate issue but here is what I feel might be the problem. They build these chassis with a basic wiring harness, and then they add to those to accomodate different length coaches and different layouts. Put some safety goggles on and grab a headlight. Start right at the back of the trailer plug and follow the harness to wherever head bumping knuckle bleading place you can. Somewhere you are likely to find a heavy duty plug that needs some exercise. I know this seemed to happen when you were in the battery compartment but I cannot count how many time these seemingly strange events occurred in my shop. Had a customer leave and come back with a problem we seemed to have caused. It turned out his old trailer wiring had shorted out and we got the pleasure of another hour of repairs on us. But that stuff happened so often I would ask my techs, "did you fix the other three things that are broke".

Feel that large solenoid on the back wall. Then measure the voltage on the purple wire. If the solenoid is warm or hot it is engaged. If there is voltage on the purple wire the solenoid is engaged and providing engine battery power to the house side. From there things can be further diagnosed. I don't want to muddy the waters just yet.

Either your switch is bad or you miswired it. Remove the switch and use an ohmeter to identify how it works. A picture always helps of course. To prove it is the house batteries at fault you should be able to carefully remove the positive source from them or the ground side. The ground side is safer of course.

If you choose to go the 101 route here is a suggestion I have posted many times over the years. So many that I saved it. Disregard the title of Ft. Bragg. Just follow the instructions until you get to 101 and go North. Don't make the turn towards Ft. Bragg when you get to that part of the scenario. It has been ten years since traveling this route (bailed out of Kalifornia), so hopefully any changes would be corrected by this group,. I highly recommend using Google Earth and print out the turns so you will recognize them. Just a note for history. There is an old abandoned mine on the right side of the hwy 20, three lanes going up. I am one of the few people that lived in a mining camp in Calif. Well, after the gold rush that is. That is a mercury mine. Some heavy stuff for sure. While taking this route 20, keep your eyes out for Elk. There are a couple of herds running around and they can be right off the road. Go slow enough to enjoy the views. It is beautiful country for sure. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Route to Ft Bragg area Take Highway 20 West out of Williams. 37.1 miles. Watch for Highway 53 as you drop down a hill after a fairly long climb. Easy climb and multiple lanes. Turn what would be South onto 53. You will go about 8 miles. Look for the sign to Highway 29 which leads to Kelseyville. This is a nice road and will become freeway in a few miles. Eventually you are back to two lane for a short distance and will come to a stop sign. You are back to Highway 20 again. This leg is about 30 miles. Turn left and enjoy the beautiful drive right to 101. This route will bypass the two lane twisting and winding on the North side of Clear lake. If you want a good view of the lake go ahead and stay on 20 all the way to 101. Disregard this part for your journey: Do NOT go to Ft. Bragg and then try to go North out of there. Sheesh. Been there. Won't do that again. Take the freeway ramp towards Willits. Once in town stay in the left lane and be patient. Traffic can back up a bit. You will come to a large intersection that has a shopping center on the right and fuel stations on three corners. Turn left and relax and enjoy a beautiful twisting and winding road that has plenty of pull outs to rest, calm queasy stomachs and stretch the pets. This section may take you an hour. Use your shifting lever to keep things in a lower gear so you don’t get hot brakes. Nothing steep, just lots of slow curves. After the 33 miles you will come to a stop light. Two ways to go, right or left. Left will take you to Mendocino and right will take you to Ft. Bragg. Be sure to make reservations in advance. Turning left there is a really nice campground “Pomo”, that we have used many times. Further down is Casper beach. My wife does not like the cramped spaces but I liked being able to walk across the street to the beach. Adding to this. Keep an eye out for Elk along the road from Williams to the Clear Lake area. Another interesting place along the way on the right is an old mining camp. You will come to a three lane road, two lanes going uphill. On the right you will see an old slag dump. This is Abbot mine. It was a mercury mine in the 50's and 60's. "Quick Silver", is an incredibly heavy liquid metal at room temp. There were about a dozen families living at this mining camp at one time. A cook house, bunk house and showers were provided for many miners. Ore was trucked to the crushers, then entered furnaces. The slag was dumped over an embankment. The site was cleaned up several years ago so mostly memories are the only things left.

Be careful to not overheat your brakes. The drive is indeed beautiful. But I do prefer the 101 if possible.

These days a signal tracer can be a time saver. They are cheap enough and will usually get you into the ball park. Putting the signal on the "famous blue wire" at the rear, (electrons are color blind), and then useing the sniffer behind the dash should lead you to the plug or tied back wire. Fortunately my wire actually has the writing on the side of it. Dang, that must have been expensive for Monaco to have the wires done this way but what a great idea. Quality for sure. Another vote for NOT using the Scotchlok connectors. I threatened my technicians that if I found them using them they would get canned. They are fine for the weekend U-haul situation but not for a permanent situation. You don't want an intermittent brake connection. Just a side note. When I first went through this post the pictures posted by Tom did not pop up. Strange. After posting this and coming back just a couple of minutes later, the pictures showed up. As mentioned by Tom, an ohmeter is a perfect tool for nailing down the wire precisely. Finding that wire can be a bit of hide and seek and the signal tracer should help get close, if not right on

Not a fun road in the best of times for a full-size setup. And the state was unable to tell me how an RV would be measured. Probably a lot shorter after a wreck. I spent six months chasing departments down trying to get a definitive answer. One office told me, "You're in luck, we have the expert here just leaving". After thirty minutes he excused himself and gave me a place to send a letter. Fell on deaf ears.

Grab a standalone voltmeter and check right at the batteries and then at the connections on the charger/inverter. Nice feature on the Lumos Harry Potter. Now Nox and go to sleep.

That is enough to run them down, but not enough for me to chase it in an RV. In a car that would be terrible. 150 ma is about as much as I would want Doing the math at 1/2 amp over X amount of hours will show you how quickly the electron buckets will empty.

Rear view mirror glue? The shower door etc goes back without alignment issues. Using the same screw holes of course, things align themselves.

That could be very normal. Batteries that are not factory fresh can contribute but my owner's manual is quite specific about turning the chassis batteries off after about three days. If you really want to chase it, then knowing how much current it is drawing to start is important. Things like step controllers alone can draw a tiny bit of current as well as engine and transmission computers. To get a baseline you need an ammeter. Using one properly can be tricky and lead to blow fuses inside the meters if they are protected properly. The battery's positive or negative lead/s must be disconnected and the meter placed in series, along with being on a proper setting to handle up to about ten amps. Connecting a meter backward can cause issues as well. So take your time and maybe practice with some AA batteries before tackling the real job. You will likely be looking at 150 MA up to 250 MA. If more than that, you have a serious draw that might be worth chasing. But in my humble opinion, 12.5 in three days is not a serious problem. I have given this a broad brushstroke but don't want to complicate the issue. It is a matter of marbles in a bucket. How many are draining out over time?

Found a sticker on my shower enclosure this AM. 2008 SKQ Endeavor. Front Line Mfg. Inc. P.O. Box 176 Leesburg In. 46538

Use a proper fitting cross point/phillips driver with a small impact driver. If you use just a screwdriver alone the heads will often strip. The gentle banging of the impact wrench works wonders. There are four screws you can see from inside the shower along the top rail. I was doing a bit of research the other day to see if I could find the rubber gaskets associated with the shower. Using a picture of it did not find it on the Google search function. I have the factory part numbers but no joy using those. I have not tried to chase down the mfgr any further. It was not a project that needs to be done. I just like having the source for parts when the issues come up. My shower stall has been apart several times for a good cleaning to make the wife happy. If you come up with part numbers please share them. I would definitely look for tempered glass. I think Lexan would scratch too easily. Will be happy to hear others suggesstions.

First picture, batteries are being charged. Good voltage. Second picture, batteries are run down. Bad voltage. If you have a Magnum Inverter/Charger, they can boil batteries if the battery temp sensor goes wonky. (Technical term used by professionals to convey a device is malfunctioning). Find or ask for a manual reference for this component. On my Magnum, it is a telephone like connection on the device. Not to be confused with a remote control connection. Based on your pictures, I doubt you have a Magnum. Boiling batteries indicate overcharging, or perhaps overfilled batteries, or sick batteries. A hydrometer and voltmeter to check each battery will help. A checkbook should resolve or at least eliminate the possibility of bad batteries if they are aging. Aging can be two to longer for batteries in an RV. Most RV batteries commit suicide and are not allowed to live a nice comfortable life. Batteries are never really owned. They are merely rented and will need to be replace sooner rather than later. IF you are connected to shoreline all the time, you can get away with replacing two of the four house batteries to save a few dollars. I do not recommend this for Boondocking of course. I have been living with two house batteries for two years now and have had no issues.

If chasing connections down does not solve it. As suggested by Paul, running a fresh wire to the battery compartment and installing your own fuse or breaker will work just fine. Be sure to cap off the old wiring and pull the fuse as well. If the flickering is just light, (no pun intended), it might be normal with aging batteries and connections. If the lights go dim, that is a real issue and indeed, not healty for a pump motor.

Likely it is wired from a source that feeds the lights. I know, that is not clear. The pump take a huge chunk of electrons on startup and pulls the voltage source low if not connected close to the battery source. The pump starting and stopping causes the cycling of the voltage. It is not really a defect but worth chasing the source of power down to tighten and clean connections. I suspect if you watch closely, when the pump comes on normally the lights will dim for a fraction of a second.

If you have a short, it should blow a fuse. Maybe an open? Since you applied battery voltage and it operates, the motor is ok, but did you do it with the wires connected or disconnected? Have someone operate the switch while you take a voltage reading somehwere along the way. Getting a measurement under load should tell the tale quickly. If your voltage on the positive side stays fairly high, and the awning does not work, then put your voltage probe on the negative side of the circuit. If you get voltage on the negative side of the circuit you have a bad ground.

2008 Endeavor. Behind the wet bay panel, on the right side wall as you face it. I have modified my wet bay panel so much that getting to it is very simple. And the space above the panel is open now for storing things.

The solenoid can be removed for an even cleaner modification. And you can keep the old solenoid around to give it a kick once in awhile. Consarn, no good, dirty rascal, interfere with my weekends, I'll teach you. On occassion I would outfit my Electronic Techs with safety goggles and a sledge hammer. Taking turns on some old radio that had long outlived its useful life. That two way radio made a one way trip to the landfill. It is amazing how well those old radios were built. Most were hand built too.

Common failure item. "Salesman switch/solenoid".. Easy to bypass as you have found. Mine has been removed completely for many years. 2008 Endeavor

Might have some finiky relays. I know I do and have been too lazy to chase them down. Seems mine need more exercise that they get so get unhappy. That's on my too do list.

N SENSE NO and N SENSE NC, Sounds like Neutral Sense, Normally Open. Neutral Sense, Normally Closed. A simple on/off relay... I carry multiple spares for a couple of relays. Seems they act up at the strangest times. And I own a service center for electronics. I think they just commit suicide.

To find out what the relay controls, just pull it out. And while it is out, take some pictures of it. Might be able to come up with a simple replacement.