MyronTruex

Thanks Ivan, I have saved this for future reference.

Ivan, would you mind clarifying that part number. What is it etc. Sorry, the air system is not in my wheel house but it will be soon.

If you buy parts, please post the numbers. I am building a file for my 08 Endeavor. The air system needs a good going over.

Show me, show me please.

Get a voltage measurement on the relay that combines the batteries. If the large post are not the same voltage, obviously they will not be combined. Then measure the voltage on the small terminals. You should have 12 volts on one post and zero volts on the other. If you have these voltages the solenoid should be engaged and the large terminals should be the same voltage. It is common for the solenoid to go bad. Post a picture of the solenoid if you have any concerns or doubts.

Larry, I finally found the files I was looking for. Sure as heck, misfiled under the paint folder. Sometimes things get shifted. my search was coming up dry yesterday. For some reason this AM I must be a bit clearer. I do not recall just how I got to the top clamp but as you suggested, it could have been through the shroud area. That likely needed fresh fasteners again anyway. For others that have this setup, the flexible pipe was longer than needed and hung down a bit far but not the biggest part of the issue. The lightweight tube is exposed to road grime and gravel and I found pinholes developing in mine. Also could have been a disaster possibly picking up water if things get really bad. The part I posted is very heavy-duty tubing. The one picture of the air intake makes me wonder why they put a screw-on cover up there. I do not recall now if I was able to lift anything up through there to get to the flexible tube. Air Intake.pdf

I know the Signature is a far different beast than my Endeavor a 2008, but I imagine the AC systems may be close. Do you have a panel below the driver in the outside compartment? If so, there are some small relays in there and a fuse as well. I have diagrams and notes in case you have something similar.

It now sounds like they used at least two different places to take the power from. The washer dryer and the front ac. Imagine if they put the wire on the load shedding side of the ems board. That would be some fun to diagnose.

Be gentle Richard, the onboard refueling process has not completed. Caffeine or lack of, is causing some fog. After reading Tom's long eloquent explanation I was just dizzy. He is spot on as usual. Anyone else I can blame? However, I would really like to have him turn the breaker off to see if he can repeat the symptoms. It really does not add up. If that does not duplicate it, I would like him to turn the washer/dryer breaker off. I hate "who done its", and then I find out it was the butler. Knowing the cause is like taking that first gulp of coffee in the morning. Then I try to plant those results into my feeble mind for further adventures. I am sure Tom is the same. Inquiring minds want to know.

Post a few pictures. Mine is anchored to the floor on the front but I dropped a plywood deck on top of the unit. It just fits side to side in the cabinet. Then I lifted one side just a tiny bit, maybe a 1/8 th inch. While the board is lifted/tilted a tiny bit, I screwed a 1x2 along the low side. With another 1x2, and pressing down on the high side this puts pressure on the board. Before installing the board I used some anti skid material on top of the washer/dryer. This pressure locks the machine in place. The shaking just reminds me of my home state of Calif. Rocking and rolling of course.

Jim, Tom mentioned that one breaker can or could cause issues. Which breaker did you switch on? I believe the washer/dryer breaker, when off can confuse things a bit. This has been discovered a couple of times. Per Tom's response. """BTW....there have been some "FUNKY" switching or issues if one of the breakers are OFF. SO, turn them ALL ON. But, typically, you WILL have lights and the remote might look strange....BUT NOT TOALLY DEAD. SO... there are no guarantees, except that if you have NO power (12 VDC) it ain't gonna work"""" If you know which one, can you duplicate the problem by turning it off again? If not, then you may have just allowed the board to reset itself.

Just to be clear. It is NOT this panel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L04Z6U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is a service manual that might help. intellitec ems service manual.pdf

Loose connections can allow those nasty stray signals to creep into the ground side of things. I do understand it is isolated to a few circuits, but sometimes simple maintenance solves strange problems. As you work your way through things, tighten any coax connections you find and make a mental note of the feel. That is, does it take a 1/4 turn for example to get them tight?

Good eyes Steven, I suspect most of us assumed he meant 6 volters. There would likely be some smoke involved with four 12 volters . In addition, he stated things worked on generator as well as on a 50 amp shoreline. Not 100% clear on your batteries. Your previous owner had two 12 volt batteries in place of where four 6 volters previously lived? That is possible. Living on shoreline a person really does not need a load of heavy batteries to get by with. In any case, your charger would likely continue to charge, even with bad batteries. It will do its best to fill up the empty electron bucket, however the bad battery will never come up to the proper voltage and the charger will keep trying to get it up to a charged state.

"""To fill in some more info, I have three dogbones--two 50->30 and one 50->20--as well as a 30->20 plug adapter. They all test good on DC resistance, and I tried all possible combinations before posting. However, street sense also tells me to agree that they still shouldn't be trusted """" DC resistance testing is just about useless. Any ohmeter will and can fool you. One wire from a stranded pair will carry enough current and voltage to make the meter read zero ohms. From one Klysitron changer to the other, get your voltmeter onto the input of the charger. This should eliminate all of the systems inline with it. This will eliminate weak shoreline voltage/current. IR drop from a heavy load that is. You charger is inverting because it does not see the proper shoreline voltage, or it is broken. Heck, you could pull the inverter/charger out and set it on a workbench with a cheater cord and check it. I am NOT suggesting that. I just want to make the point that you may be shooting in the dark without real measurements. You would never change a klystron without measuring the B+. If it satisfies your need. Start the generator and go into the Magnum setup and turn the charger down to 10 or 20 percent if yours has that feature. I do this when on light weight shorelines. 30 amp or less for example. Once the batteries are full, 10% will keep them up just fine.

If you have a 50 to 30 amp adaptor, or 50 to a normal 110 plug, or some way to get down to a normal three prong plug, connect that to shoreline. Before doing so, turn off any major electric hogs, such as the water heater. See if your charger comes alive. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A voltmeter on the input of the inverter/charger would be where I go for my first voltage measurement if the above does not cause the charger to come to life. -------------------------------------- I do not trust that your shoreline is functioning correctly. There are two 110 volt paths that come down the 50 amp connection. Using adaptors makes that voltage come down both lines at the same time. Your system knows what is coming down those lines and makes changes as needed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The inverter/charger is a pretty dumb animal. It just needs to be fed 110 volts. If is sees that, it charges, if it does not see that and you have the inverter button on, it drains your batteries. ---------------------------------------------- You probably have a (30amp), or so breaker in your main breaker panel that feeds the charger. You can take a voltage measurement there with the generator running and on shoreline. Comparing should sort this out in just a few measurements.

The only hard part of changing the fan was finding a way to get to it. After some real digging and thinking I was going to have to do major surgery, I found the hidden hatch cover. It was covered by carpet and in the closet, mostly. The closet doors had to be removed along with the bottom track. The bottom track was a pain and was reinstalled with screws in a place easy to get to. Monaco made beautiful tight fitting cabinetry. The sconce/valence above the closet doors was a tight fit getting out. There are hidden finishing nails so it was a bit intimidating taking things apart. That panel was trimmed 1/4 inch for future removals. It now only takes minutes to get the closet doors out and the carpet covered hatch off. I believe just three drywall screws hold it in place now. Not noticeable and much easier to remove. The hatch was incredibly well hidden with carpet. The carpet had not been sliced around the deck area. We have the 40 SKQ so your layout may be simpler. I have pictures on the changeout if you are interested. Getting the fan off was easy. Being prepared with a breaker bar and the right socket it took just a couple of minutes to remove the bolts. I just remembered that taking the fan belt off was not necessary. The fan blade was carefully lifted out from above. The new one dropped in and bolted on. One of the first of hundreds of modifications made. The new fan is one of the best mods. I did notice that in downhill driving that the less draggy fan required me to use the tranny in a lower gear or the brakes much more. The fan I believe reduced the hp needed by some 35 hp. An astonishinig amount of drag. Check out the specs. It has been nearly fifteen years so would need to verify.

In the middle of Covid shortages, my front AC died. It was also the middle of Summer in the middle of Florida. Buying a noisy portable unit was the only thing available. After some time and at least three, maybe four, returns to Amazon due to damaged units. I got one installed. Two were not available so I had to make the new one backwards compatible to the 5 button thermostat. The conversion was indeed a $130 board at the time. I’m an ET so the changeout was not difficult. It was a bit distressing capping a wire or two and folding them back out of the way and not knowing the function of those wires. My AC’s have heat pumps. My AC’s were 15K units. Only 13K units were available at the time. When the new AC, with a new backwards compatible board fired up there was a lot of relief in the air. Some time later another AC unit (price increase of course of $200), became available. Same issues with damage in transit and horridly built units. Loose wiring, pinched wiring, misplaced things. Penguins were horridly built. With both old AC’s on hand they, along with the new boards removed from the new units, were listed on either Craigs list or the Market place. Some human person, only described by me as a human forklift showed up with a trailer and cash in hand. He picked up one of the units like it was a bag of trash, threw it over his shoulder and put it in the trailer. I should now replace my 5 button with the Microair. I think my thermostat has a bit of an intermittent. It will go wonky, (technical term to be used only by highly qualified ET’s with a half century of experience)) Changing the new boards out in a new unit is a bit unnerving, even for an old tech. The instructions were quite good. Far better than most.

As mentioned, the fan may not have a clutch. My 2008 Endeavor does not. I believe changing the idler pulley is recommended at a certain point. I have not changed mine but only have 55K miles on the coach. I have changed the belt and the fan itself long long ago with one from Source Engineering. The fan is far quieter and eats up a lot less hp. It is substantial. I did acceleration testing before and after. My mileage increased and the noise dropped 5 db at the rear of the RV.

LED"S require little power so leakage voltage can cause some very strange symptoms. As suggested, bad ground can cause untold craziness, not to be confused with wonkiness. Get a voltmeter and a long piece of wire to connect to the negative terminal of your battery bank. Using this long wire will ensure you have a proper ground for your meter and for the following test. You can fuse the long wire near the battery with a very small fuse, such as a 5 amp. This fuse will protect things as you can potentially hit the wrong wire. Measure your led voltages and write them down during the various scenarios you mention. Measure the ground side of your lights during those tests as well. If you see any voltage on the ground side of the lights, use your long long wire to temporarily make a solid known ground for the lights. Hopefully this will help. If you can simply unplug the led strip light you mention AFTER the tests above, I would do so.

So to be clear, the original alternator is in right now? Did you get stuck with the one they used to replace it? The link I provided shows how the alternator could have been damaged. A bench check of the alternator will tell you if yours is actually working. If not, it would not be that hard to convert to a self excited one. Your existing wiring would need some testing while disconnected to check for any shorts.

This group has a deep knowledge of your EMS system. I have a 2008 Endeavor which is the sister ship to the Diplomat. I also have a ton of files to provide if interested. There are tons of files on this forum as well. Glad you joined us.

How is your boost pressure? If a mechanic did not check the hoses and connections in and around the turbo there could be a small leak. Hopefully anyway.

Steve, it sounds like you have a self exciting alternator. The small white is likely an ignition sense. You should get 14+ right at the alternator. You should be able to "see" your battery voltage right at the large red wire. That is, it is likely connected at the starter area (stacked), with the heavy wire to the starter. Of course it could go directly to the battery. Hard to know if yours was a factory self excited or modified later. I prefer self excited for simplicity but the remote sensor probably gives you a better/more accurate charging. Either system is just fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzJ0-r_QE4o Watch this video to find out why your old one may not work now. In a moment, I will find a link to a ton of information you can review and come to a better understanding of your yours work. I'm not a fan of the remote sensor but it does make sense in many applications to assure the proper voltage is at the batteries. Long runs and tired connections can cause the voltage to be a bit low for proper charging. The remote sensor looks at the batteries very closely, much as you would with a voltmeter, then compensates for the reading it senses. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xgfJOjqvaRe3is_tAqQ?e=E0CZ0q Check these files out.