SteveJ

If you are like me, the refrigerator is on the GFI outlet. Mine is in the sink space and is prone to trip

Everyone seems to avoid answering the question or offering some other options. I have the Marcell and think very highly of it. I chose the one with AT&T service and it has worked in all states, even Alaska. Of course, if you go 'off grid' for lots of time, you are going to have problems with anything. But we wanted the security of knowing if there where issues when we left our dog in the coach. It notifies us if the campground electric goes off or if the generator shuts down (as it has!). It also notifies us if the temp goes above a certain point (which it has). It sends notices to both of our phones (not AT&T). And we used it for 5 months during the summer - they have plans for partial or yearly. I would recommend it without question. We did have issues when traveling in the Yukon and British Columbia but we had many issues with cell service and certainly no internet there as well. Hope this helps your decision making . .

Didn't do the job myself - went to Indiana to have it put in. 12v compressor and it has worked great for over 2 years now.

Just finished up another 5 day rally with my converted Norcold 1200. I had JR install the 12v compressor and I can't be any happier. My seals were good and it maintained -3/26 on setting 3 all week. I had to run a heavier 12v line from the batteries (either 10 or 12ga - can't remember which) and I went an additional step by putting a shutoff switch and 25amp circuit breaker in the new 12v line. Now I did have my awning out this week which does help keep the temps a little cooler but coming home and sitting in the hot sun, it is still +1/39 on the same #3 setting. And I have gone 36 hours and still had plenty of battery left (4 - 6volt). I'm a very satisfied JR fan!

Yes, wildly different depending . . Mine went up almost $1000 when I moved to Florida. And that is part time with coach stored indoors when not in use. Did go down about $100 dollars when I moved away from the coast. And that is for a 2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer, with Progressive. Anyway, about $1500 right now with renewal this summer.

The wiring diagram you are referring to explains the aux start switch (on the dash), not the cutoff, as least that is what mine shows. The cutoff is not covered, either house or engine. And we certainly don't have an engine preheat so the diagram probably relates to DPs with something 'like' it on gas models. Again, nothing that Monaco published is always correct for a Vacationer. Not sure if you have ever been to the REV factory and see them cutting/splicing the same wiring harness for 5/6 different models but I'm guessing Monaco did the same thing and them tried to document after the fact. My Vacationer seems to have another larger black wire along with the cable wrap at the cutoff switch - not sure if it might be inside the wire wrap? But mine looks like it is all original. Those files were pictures but when I use air drop of messages to move from my iPhone to Mac Air, they use that format. Resend as jpegs. I'll PM you and I'm on workhorse also

Welcome to another Vacationer Owner! Not many of us on this site . . mostly DP's - at least the active ones Your switch probably 'broke apart' on a previous owner. Mine did shortly after I bought it in 2018. They were poorly built and storing anything in the FR basement put pressure on that switch. I lost the house one also, both of which I replaced with marine grade switches. The wiring is as you see it. I just 'transferred' to the new switch with only a little tugging since the switch was bigger/heavier. It looks as if they are split - 2 & 2. I have the 2004 HR/LaPalma wiring diagrams - only partially helpful and not always accurate. And it doesn't cover the Engine side wiring at all. Monaco left it to Workhorse or Ford to provide something, which they don't. I have 4 years of hunting down issues on a vacationer/workhorse so don't be afraid to email me anytime IMG_0004.HEIC IMG_0007.HEIC Sorry, I noticed the pictures didn't come through as jpegs. Sometimes the happens on my Mac when transferring by messages. If they don't open for you, let me know and I will try to post them another way.

Hi Bill, The monitor is probably worth about $50 to Me as a spare. Not to insult you with a low price but mine is still working so it would be a spare. Thanks, Steve

More than the distance, I work on hours driving - about 6-7 hours per day. If it is all on Interstate, ok, make good miles. Mountain, back roads?? I'm retired, so I plan on taking lots of time to get somewhere with 'slop' built in for unexpected. - Steve

I know some people have not been happy with the 'Amish Cooling" unit but I think that 'depends'! The recent replacement models are much different and are actually compressors types, not absorption units. I replaced mine with their 12v compressor unit and could not be happier!! Coach is sitting outside in 90 degree heat and is -2 and 34. Have had it in the Florida sun for 4 months of over 100 degrees and it still stays the same temp. I went this way when the Norcold stopped cooling after trying many things. As long as the seals are still good, the 12v or 120v replacements are great. I have one with the 12v so we could dry camp, if wanted. I have 4 6 volt batteries and it will last more than 24 hours before having to run the generator to charge batteries. I do wish they offered a 12v/120v unit like I have on my boat but they so far have not done that. I chose to not replace the Norcold with a residential unit because: my wife really loves the matching front panels on the existing one, I don't have an inverter and it would have required major upgrade to install one and it was a MAJOR problem to change the configuration necessary to install something that might fit. So I travelled to Indiana to have the 12v conversion done (didn't want to do it myself although doable) and the total was shy of $1400, not including getting the coach there. Done in less than three hours and no changes required. I'm an example of a happy customer.

I can only report what worked for me. I went with the JC Refrigeration 12v unit (compressor). Setting 2 is where I keep it - in Florida with 95-100 degree Temps outside. 0 to -3 freezer and 33 -34 in fridge. Did it last year and am not at all sorry. Drove to Indiana to have him install. On all the time, does not run the batteries down (4-6 volt) and now completely safe for those worried about fire. Didn't want the hassle of taking windows out and redoing all the surround - if it would even fit so I just ignore those people that say the ONLY way to go is residential. I have no inverter and didn't want all the cost involved to install. 12v works great.

I have a motorcycle trailer with rubber valve stems using TST system (flow thru) with 12,000 miles towing. Also a tow dolly and Lexus with same valve stems - over 10,000 miles, no issues. And now a 2020 Equinox with the same TST system waiting to be towed another 10,000 miles. Non issue!!

No, that is 7amps dc per hour. Since I have over 400amps dc available, I don’t worry about overnighting without hookups

I'm sure you will get a lot of replies to replace with residential. I did not! My wife really likes the wood exterior that matches the coach and doesn't like the metal look of a residential in the coach. So, I was like you, seals where good and refrigerator was in good shape. I took it to Indiana and had JC replace the entire cooling unit with their 12v compressor unit. I don't have an inverter but wanted the refrigerator on all the time so the 12v made the most sense for me. Keeps both Freezer and Refrigerator plenty cold: zero to -3 and 35-37 at all times on a 5 or 6 setting. And it works for boon docking - draws 7 to 13amps (DC) so runs 24 hours without battery recharge. One year/20,000 miles working great. Steve

On RVupgrades website, they call it a ESCO Lyght transfer switch - guess they are one and the same. Perhaps ESCO stands for Elkhart Supply Corporation?