DavidL

Any auto muffler ship can fabricate what you need. They just have to want to work on an RV that is big.

Without knowing anything about the specific toilet...is it overflowing because the flush water isn't shutting off? And eventually it does? And the toilet is flushing fine? For example, on my most recent RV trip, my son complained that the toilet was overfilling. Further examination showed that in actuality it wasnt' flushing and he kept pushing the flush / fill button which then filled it up. The flush blade was sticking from non use. Once the flush blade was coaxed to move, all was fine again an no more toilet drama for the trip.

Good point...the OP should also be sure that whoever winterized the system DID put in RV antifreeze and didn't just blow the water out. Required for Aquahot and Hydrohot systems.

yes, the heater is just heating an empty copper coil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-150-750-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58707.html?_br_psugg_q=torque+adapter https://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-6387-Torque-Multiplier/dp/B000P6UNBU/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=torque+multiplier&qid=1699459744&sr=8-45 I found the multiplier in a garage sale or something...kinda expensive to buy new. If new, you might just get a far simpler 3/4" drive long arm torque wrench instead https://www.amazon.com/100-600-Torque-Professional-Heavy-duty-135-815N-M/dp/B0BRRTVCVD/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=torque%2Bmultiplier&qid=1699459744&sr=8-48&th=1

You should get a scan tool compatible with your CAN bus / powertrain and find out why the motor derated. Before you get stuck when the problem gets worse. Most of the time, the Engine ECU / Transmission ECU monitor and put the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) into history.

Ok, XYZ.

The torque multiplier has an arm on it that contacts the ground to keep it from rotating. For some of the higher lugs, the arm might not be long enough. So you can put a block on the ground to keep the arm more horizontal. the Jack stand goes under the head of the multiplier to keep the socket extension in line with the lug nut / socket. Takes some manipulation to get things rejiggered with each nut but with a second person, it goes pretty fast if you are doing lots of lugs in one sweep. The torque sensor / tool has a Beep when you get close to your desired torque and a solid tone when you hit it. So you don't really need to watch the readout. This is one less thing to jigger when moving to the next lug (to get the rotation right to start torqueing). The torque sensor is available online and at Harbor Freight. Mine has 750ft/lb capacity. 3/4" drive.

Post 22 shows my setup. https://rvforums.com/threads/newmar-k2-spartan-air-bag-replacement.16136/page-3#post-104505 Torque multiplier and an electronic torque measurement at the socket for accuracy.

Take a look at the venting as the difference. Length of run and any obstruction in the air path.

You might want to send those pictures to Alcoa. Looks like a defect to me. Maybe they will make it right. The outside edge of the rim doesn't show any signs of hitting the road (curb or flat tire related). Almost like the rim was over heat treated and brittle (that's a guess).

The Allonis SmartRemote Kickstarter just went live!!! We fully expect this remote to be the most customizable, expandable remote on the market. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1957275162/smartremote-a-customizable-remote-control?ref=project_build I have it in my Newmar controlling lights, slides, water systems, TPMS, Denon receivers, DirecTV, Roku, FireTV, Samsung and LG TVs, and more. Does require some expertise to install and program. Nothing simple ever comes easy 🙂

Insulation on the pump does nothing but keep any heat from getting to the pump. You need to get the wetbay above 32. There are plenty of hoses / lines that are also frozen (and potentially cracking) if the pump is frozen.

Looks like you need to check the wiring and pins for continuity. Find the wiring schematic and check all wires go where they are supposed to. Odds are better that a connector isn't connecting.

Clean it and put it in the spare parts box.

pump check valve might not be closing so water is recycling and pump isn't shutting off due to no pressure built up.

I don't know. If you had antifreeze in the fresh tank last year, and filled it, it should have gotten diluted. The whole tank would have had some antifreeze smell, but not much color dependent on how diluted it was. Certainly the better way is to Springize the system by putting fresh water in, and pushing all antifreeze out, shocking the fresh water with bleach and a full tank, run the bleached water through all fresh lines, let it sit for a few hours, and then completely flush the system again and refill and use. Don't forget you don't run bleach or antifreeze water thru water filters (like charcoal type). Maybe there was a line that you never used since then? Like a second bathroom sink that never gets used and there was still antifreeze in that line? Either way, just sounds like the Springize was never completely done. No problem other than some bad tasting water.

Sounds like there was RV antifreeze in the system...but why would that not have been diluted if you were using the system? Possibly you have only been running on shore water only the whole time and not using water from the Fresh Tank?

For those that talk about mounting a tire on the roof....how do they get it up / down from there? Would require a small crane attachment. The hitch extender for the tire looks fine. I just struggle with putting a trailer on, and all of that leverage yanking / twisting the receiver hitch down to the ground. If little tongue weight on the Toad / trailer, then sure.

Agreed, but if brake drag, the pads would have melted off by now. Even slight drag adds very significant heat across a mile. Time will tell. Thanx for the updates Saflyer.

Because you are saying that you are trying to squeeze every drop into the tank, indicates you aren't calculating mileage correctly. You should be long term tracking how much fuel goes into the tank, independent on the capacity of the tank or fullness. Across time, the errors with each fill will normalize. If your calculations are indeed correct (after monitoring for several more fuel fills / documenting how many gallons across miles), and you are getting consistently low mileage, then you have a motor problem. If it's running well, then you probably aren't having motor problems. But no way is changing tires going to affect mileage to the degree you are saying.

I use a jetter nozzle up the discharge line. Modded a clear elbow that stays connected to the septic tank. Put the jetter nozzle / hose through a hole I drill at the top side. So you can see progress, drain the tank and get minimal blowback.

Powerwash the engine bay. Don't get too close to the radiator fins or reduce pressure. Stay away from electrical modules / connectors. If you don't have a powerwasher (what?) rent one. Well worth the effort and investment. Takes 10 minutes to clean the whole bay. Do the battery bay next (if open to road / draining). Degrease engine bay / radiator. Wash again. Then look at the mechanicals like others have said to see why the shroud is getting that close to the fan. See if the shroud is bent.

Push the Go pedal to go faster. Your transmission knows how to shift. There is no such thing as "not driving it hard enough". If the motor was getting hot, then your coolant system needed maintenance (hopefully what you have already done)

I would power wash the whole thing, let it dry, try to use the system and look for fresh leakage. Hard to determine where it's leaking as it is now. The fluid reservoir shouldn't be under pressure....it shouldn't be leaking even if the cap was very loose. But certainly get the cap sealing before power washing it. Jacks not retracting: Does it have springs on the leg to pull it up? One hydraulic hose per leg? If so, then either the valve isn't releasing or the leg seals are binding a bit on the shaft. Either way, bring the legs down, exposing the chrome shaft, and clean with WD40 on a rag. Check your manual if the shafts need to be protected with WD40 or silicone spray.