DavidL

Bad connection, bad ground, dirty lens.

hi Mike, At least I don't know what the 6 wire main connector connects. For the purposes of figuring out what diode(s) are needed, we would need a voltage measurement across the LED bulb that is dimly lit when supposed to be off. So, the ground on the ground wire of the bulb, and the positive lead of the multimeter on the positive side of the dim bulb.

https://dtnacontent-dtna.prd.freightliner.com/content/public/dtna-servicelit/dtna/en_us/thomas-built-buses/drivers-manuals/saf-t-liner-c2-school-bus-drivers-manual/section_ch06dm466.html Looks like number 5: High Exhaust Temp

Boost max pressure, if not to spec (what spec is yours supposed to be? Makes no difference to what other forum users say - look up the technical specs) is more typically regulated by the wastegate system used. But, I suspect your is just fine. If it were mine, I would decarbon it (using carb cleaner, wire brush the exterior and give it a shot of heat paint to make it pretty 😉 Then shoot some fresh clean oil into the oil supply to "prime it" before installing. Most important is to ensure all dirt is certainly not in the oil supply, and also in the air tract before assembly. You could also bring it to a turbo rebuild shop. But there is something to be said for "don't fix what's not broken".

We are only interested in the voltage that the offending LED bulb sees when the circuit is "off". 3.6v sounds too high.

If you like your RV size and floorplan...why not just do a facelift like you would in your sticks and bricks?

The GREAT majority of folks on just about any forum don't have the background to diagnose and repair the type of issue the OP speaks of. Heck, seems Cummins isn't capable either....(geees). Might as well just remove the radiator cap, roll a new RV underneath and call it fixed... As far as ignoring DTCs....as a general statement, that's not a wise move. They are there for a reason. And can be frustrating as they are real time monitoring voltages and signals going across different ECUs on the vehicle data buss. Intermittent connections, water intrusion, salt, corrosion, bad grounds, and fluky electronics all contribute to intermittents which can be frustrating. BTW, the "Silverleaf" is reporting powertrain issues. It's not generally creating them. It just listens and talks on the vehicle data buss for DTC issues and reports back to you for ease of use. It's a mini scan tool. It has it's own set of diagnostics and reporting, but those aren't powertrain, and those shouldn't be triggering Check Engine or Power Loss idiot lights (that's against Fed Emissions Law). Best is to find someone local that has high diagnostic ability (industry calls these 'Diagnostic A Tech"). Most are found in Auto as there is far more volume of work, issues and experts. They generally all work similar, the process for diagnosis is same. And yes, there are tricks and experiences that working on same vehicle certainly helps...but with a good DTC, and a schematic and general understanding of the system, it's fixable without replacing an overpriced and unneeded wiring harness. And yes, those folks are the highest per hour paid of all Auto / Truck / RV techs.

That's a classic Cummins Shop story. Charge diagnostics and not provide a diagnostic. Replace a way overpriced wiring harness. I would diagnose the wiring issue by using a schematic. Replace only the wires that check shorted or open. Just disconnect the wire at both ends (according to the schematic) and test. Just run a pair of wires parallel to the old harness and connect the sensor back up to where it's supposed to be. About a few hours of work. Save $5K.

yup. Put the resister between Ground and the Bulb Positive (just like how the bulbs are wired) The diode method: Put the diode on the positive before the bulb. But we really need someone to measure voltages when off with the LED bulbs in place to provide specific parts. The resistors linked should be fine. Leakage: I don't think you will see any difference to dry camping battery time with our without the diodes. All of these RVs with same control system have been "leaking" since new....no one complained.

Are you sure that diode method would allow the bulbs to turn on? when over the forward bias voltage? I haven't thought too much about it. Certainly the diode would need to be high enough watts to support the led light load. And if someone was to replace an LED with incandescent down the road....the diode might fry from the higher wattage....just needs to be scaled accordingly.

I would say the reason to upgrade to LED is to get more reliable bulbs, that are brighter, and consume less energy. Plus gives one the chance to clean things up during the upgrade 🙂 The residual current is being wasted today already. Negligible affect on battery life.

Where are you seeing axle fluid? I see grease from the braking components (normal). If it's not leaking, don't fix something that isn't broken 🙂

And I use a power washer to ensure that the fins are clean on both sides since you can really only access it from the outside. Yes, it can cause damage to the thin fins if you are spraying on an angle, using too tight a nozzle, too close, and using too high a pressure setting. But, when you know how to use the tool, it's invaluable. A hammer can cause a lot of damage if it's not used with skill too. I powerwash a LOT (living in the woods, on a lake, with toys...) and it is a HUGE time saver.

wouldn't it be nice if they used some blue tape on the glass, injected the urethane, and used a finger to get rid of the bogs and then remove the tape for a finish edge...

Did you see my post with the two links? Very good chance those will work. Would need some voltage measurements for any more specifics. But, after all that is said and done, the links will probably provide a resistor that would work. Basically, it emulates having an incandescent bulb in the series.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle-lights/motorcycle/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix+packamt-2-Pack MIGHT be something like that is needed. EDIT - cheaper here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PBQPTXT/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=2c03134bb037dbb8eed0d3c3664f3c38&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=0&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=15be6812-2bef-4125-bdb7-c807653f7270&pd_rd_w=Pv1ay&pd_rd_wg=pEBnV&qid=1689707739&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_title&sr=1-2-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124

Ok, so then he might need to add a resistor to GND to "bleed" off the tiny current that is passing when Off. Can Mike put a voltmeter on the circuit before the lights to tell us how many volts exist when the lights are supposed to be off?

Yes, the Jeep has an issue with "death wobble". This is not related to be towed. Quite honestly, I don't think Stellantis has nailed down root cause, and / or hasn't published a solution. The last Jeep I had the Corporate repair facility put a steering dampener on it to cure. I personally think that was a band aid. If it were my Jeep, I would look real close for any loose joints in the steering that is allowing the wheels to have a mind of their own. And to check the alignment is right at spec. I have a sneaking suspicion that some have too little caster which makes it prone to wobble. But that's just a thought. If I can get online with my ole' TechConnect system, I will check if there is a TSB or Star Center bulletin to address. But I would think that the Corporate Repair would have checked for this (hopefully).

Because LEDs take so little current to work, some lighting controllers (especially those that support dimming) "bleed" a little current that the LED will then turn on. Incandescent need more current than that so look off. So, commonly a resister is put in line with the LED lights to "kill" the tiny current that the LED is displaying. If the lighting controller is just a relay, then it shouldn't be passing any current when off. If it's a Mosfet (not a coil relay), then it might be passing the tiny current. Frank might know how the controller is controlling the Light circuit...

Frank, If he wanted to use CCM control over the Jake - is that just CCM relays that trigger same circuits? For example, on many DPs, Jake can be triggered using the air brakes (the foot brake). If he switches over to the hard wired - is he loosing that feature? Or are the two switches you mention wired to tell the ECM that you want to enable Jake? Mine is working (including a foot switch for Jake on / off - which is very handy) but am curious on how Monaco wires theirs (technical curiosity).

That sounds great! I am jealous! I suspect Frank will help get the rest going. Good luck!

Ok, next step is (while the vehicle is on the ground on the tires) have someone move the wheel back / forth while someone else observes where the slack is. This involves putting a hand on the greasy joint and feeling for play. And certainly visually inspecting to see what lags in the Left / Right movement. Ensure you instruct the person at the wheel to just go to the right until he /she feels resistance, and then back to the Left the same amount. This is with motor off. Tom, note, I asked for a definition of "Wander" many / most don't really understand the technical impact of that term. So best that they explain what they see / feel under what conditions. Most misdiagnosis is due to improper problem statement. (patent 6609050b2) And it doesn't make any difference on the chassis. Since we can't see play on a static picture, but can see OEM grade shocks on a rig that has miles and time, then the shocks are suspect and hugely impactful on overall handling (including "Wander" if the vehicle is skipping). High centered vehicles that "jostle about" (due to floating shocks) can "feel" like "Wander" even if the tires are going dead true down the road. Yes, I put a home made Watts link on my 36 gas bounder. Huge difference. Tags generally don't need it as there is much more resistance to side to side chassis movement than without the tag. EDIT: correction...I put really a PanHard bar not a Watts link on that...but to accomplish the same effect, just without the fitment complexity of a true Watts....(half a "watt"? 🙂 ) Your wealth of experience with the history of these coaches is a blessing to the group.

Diagnosis comes first. If there is steering play in the box, then look at all joints while moving wheel back / forth to find that play. Might be a Joint, not the box. Since the box has evidently been replaced, that is likely not the problem. Define wandering: You keep the wheel straight and the vehicle moves with the wind from passing trucks? Or RV moves with road undulations? Or you move the steering wheel and the RV keeps going straight? Do bumps affect the issue? The shocks look like they have been around as long as the RV...that's a wear item and good handling starts there. Check tire pressures since that doesn't cost anything. Ensure pressure is correct for the Axle weight as per the tire's spec chart.

https://rvforums.com/threads/hwh-leveling-fix.12836/ Here is the fix for the electric switches. If your touch membrane is cracked over the switch, that's indicative that the switch underneath might also have seen it's day.

The button under the plastic overlay might not be functioning. Easy fix if you know how to solder.