DavidL

No way are the tires contributing towards a fuel mileage change like that. Especially if they are inflated anywhere near what they are supposed to be. Sounds like inaccurate mileage calculation.

I would just have to assume that the logic side of the system isn't fused by 150 amp breakers.... Or is it really that poorly engineered? At that point, break a trace and put in a control circuit... worse case https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP32-Battery-Relay-Isolator/dp/B001HBYXVS/ref=asc_df_B001HBYXVS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111914138&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4857213668156472117&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017042&hvtargid=pla-555119062217&th=1

Edited my post for 12 volts.... Is there a central fuse for the K system brain? And does that same 12v circuit power up the receivers / sub brains?

Frank, wouldn't it make sense to put a "smart relay" on the 12 volt circuit to detect if less than "11.5v" to shut down the circuit entirely and cleanly? And some logic not to power cycle rapidly the relay if voltage floats back to 11.6.... Without me knowing the exact circuit (like I am sure you do), I summise that this could be inserted to replace the current fuse for the circuit is, plus a ground wire. Certainly the current fuse value would be in line with the "smart relay" and before the relay. Example https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Channel-Isolation-Support-Trigger/dp/B00LW15D1M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=ZYXH6NYE1AF&keywords=5v+low+voltage+shutdown+relay&qid=1696526200&sprefix=5v+low+voltage+shutdown+relay%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 But that one might not consider the voltage bouncing above threshold...but it's the idea.

Lightning because of it's awesome power is the obvious one...but any circuit that is power sagged, rebooted incessantly, unregulated (more than the prescribed voltage), shorted, or opened causes issues with sensitive electronics devices. Power regulation, noise filters, UPS, etc are all part of a well engineered system. Generally if it's original devices and wiring, and kept in good condition (clean, secure grounds, solid connections, fuses maintained and of right values etc), you don't have to worry about these details. But if you are modding the system (ie: putting solar in, swapping generators, etc) then these items are considerations for the more advanced DIY'r. Most all issues I have seen are just due to lack of maintenance. My power washer trigger finger twitches when people post pictures of their battery bays and all the dirt and corrosion on all connections....this is where the low voltage problems begin...

I am impressed. A "never say die" attitude 🙂 Love it. Me, I would have replaced the proprietary stuff with less than proprietary. But that's looking from afar. Nice work! I am doing some automation enhancements on my Newmar (that applies to any coach). At some point I will be posting about those updates. My next trip is Hilton Head in a couple of weeks. I am targeting then to have lots of it working. I will polish stuff while sitting down there in the nice weather! Oh, it would be cool if you share the J1939 bits that we look at technical integration of "your stuff" and "my stuff"

and don't forget to vacuum out the system, recharge the right type and qty of oil and charge back up with gauges to monitor pressure / qty / temp.

Knowledge of the turning radius dimensions doesn't apply to real life driving. The specs really don't mean anything tangible. If it's a tight turn, turn late so the inside of turn middle of the RV chassis doesn't hit anything. And start the turn on the outside of the turn. Let the outside of turn nose follow along the outside of the lane so the majority of the RV is centered in the turning lane. And look all the time in the mirrors on both sides that are aren't close to anything. Practice. Stay conservative until you learn your real world turning radius and footprint. Know that the tail of the RV has some swing to consider it's length. Ford 36 gas chassis have lots of overhang to worry about. Tags much less so. Plan your route so you aren't having to turn around. Or there is a route to turn around. Park in parking lots so you can easily exit, even if more cars / trucks pile in while you are having lunch. Use Google Earth to map out your route looking for turn radius issues (fuel stations etc). Park at the back of the lot where no one else wants to park. Enjoy the walk.

Are you asking what is the specification of the amount of turn? Without looking at yours....it is what it is. Use your mirrors / camera and sometimes a second person in your mirrors to guide you into tricky spots. Practice in a parking lot that doesn't have light posts. If you have a tag, look at how to lift the tag to decrease turning radius. Typically a button on the dashboard.

I don't know the specifics of that head, but if it ain't right, now's the time to fix it. Don't put it back together until you know all parts are sound. Sounds like you are doing good work and research.

Upgrade to modern HDMI TV / AV Receiver is the heart of it. DVD player's are getting old. The sources to get round discs are getting thin. Rip, put on a hard drive and store hundreds of movies. As long as they are movies of your kids, legal 🙂 Use a firetv stick or roku to play movies back and access streamed content (the current way to get to media). Better to get an external player like a Roku Ultra than to rely on Roku on some low line TVs as the hardware is snappier performance.

Wired is always better if you have the right wire run. Wireless is less reliable and less bandwidth (not as good picture quality).

Check the tire date stamps and condition of air bags. These are time perishable items and can add $thousands to your initial ownership. Or, just plan on replacing them for peace of mind and budget for them.

Increasing the tire size: The rim width needs to be correct for the tire The bigger tire might hit shocks, body. Bigger tires cost more Bigger tires generally have more weight capacity Bigger tires might ride a bit smoother (more tire to "give" over bumps)

Having just gone through that, you likely need to replace all tires with that old of a date code. When the tires were deflated on mine, the cracks became very apparent. I got mine via the FMCA Michelin tire program. Picked them up and had them mounted near locally. Used balancing beads and replaced all stems. And did air bags, shocks, grease etc. too.

The REAL savings is the labor to run a new cable from back to front....many hours.... If I can find a communication protocol document for Progressive devices, maybe I will build a solution... Anyone have a link?

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/thermostat-ac-help-with-updates-and-solution-408550.html Post 13 has a diagram of a "data" cable. Which is not necessarily twisted pair. Just means the ends are wired opposite of a more available telephone cable. But, verify on your cable end what you have before plugging untested things in.

For lack of anyone having those specifics, just cut the cable end off (which you have to do anyway) and figure out the wiring with a multimeter and duplicate same wiring on the new RJ11 end. Before putting the new end on, use the wires to determine if there are any opens / shorts across the cable by disconnecting both ends and selectively shorting two wires together to determine if you can detect the newly closed connection on the other end (the end with the RJ11 still on).

Dorman supplies many of the major auto parts chains. In general: They make good stuff. I wouldn't hesitate. The parts from a OE Dealer are marked up way higher by both the OEM and the dealer. I used to be in "Mopar Parts" Strategy role (Chrysler / DCX / FCA) so have a little professional background on the subject... re: electrical contacts...yes, clean them no matter what. But half the work is exposing the wiring harness. I would replace the switch anyway for the cheap price that the Dorman is AND clean the contacts.

If the door is not on the roller which is in the track, then that lever in your picture gets moved sideways to release and the door can be removed from the track roller assy. But the real question is why did it fail...so you might have a broken / bent part that will have to be replaced. Those doors are a PITA to work on...

You raise the coach until the wheels are off the ground. On most vehicles, the shock is the limiting device for holding up the axle when topped out. For access, remove the wheels. Put proper rated jack stands under the chassis. Ensure they are blocked up securely on firm ground. Use 2x12's if not on cement. Then, put a floor jack under the axle and raise axle a tad to get the axle weight pressure off the bolt. Remove shock bolts with a 1/2" air impact. Mine are 1 1/8" socket. Remove the bolt. Remove the Shock. Reverse process to put the new one's back in. I had to use a adjustable wrench to pry open the ears on the axle a little to make room for the width of the new shock.

"The oil pressure you “see” on the gauge at the panel may or may be the actual OIL PRESSURE in the main oil gallery or the OP going into the oil filter. Between the sender wearing out over time or the gauge “sticking”, use that gauge as a base indicator only.. To your question: Seeing 40-80 PSI at medium to high RPM’s seems average and 10-20 PSI when idling (engine hot) is normal. going below an actual 10 PSI when hot at a low idle below 700 RPM is quite normal–Nothing to worry about. The only way to really know is to install a high quality liquid filled 0-200 PSI gauge on the engines main oil gallery—- Use a High Pressure #4 hose hose when doing so." Cummins...not Cummings 🙂

Could it be for the toilet itself?

Hi Rick, Yes, agreed. Also note that there are many coaches that the analog gauges are CAN fed and do share same sensor as the powertrain ECU. On mine, we wrote software that runs on our myServer controller on a Pi CAN hat. Our automation software then gets the data via MQTT. The myServer Automation Events software can execute actions when sensor data exceeds a value. For example, to keep the dash simple, there is no coolant temp gauge taking up room as it is irrelevant unless it's "overly hot". So, when the coolant temp exceeds it's threshold, a notification pops up, and the dash UI switches to the more detailed view that includes the temp gauge for end user monitoring. Of course, another rule could be put into place to "turn on aux fan" or some mechanical action via a relay. The UI includes means to manually go to the more detailed view as well if that is wanted. Very common mistake end users make when they are building dashboards to cram every possible data element on the screen. More is dangerous and distracting. Hands on Wheel, Eyes on Road. So, the entire dashboard can be "digital". Including analog looking gauges if that is wanted for the UI design. More work is needed to show this on my coach....too many other competing projects 🙂

Ok, same situation. OBDII.