DavidL

That is too general of a topic to provide specifics. Basically it needs to be resecured. To do that depends on where it's loose and how to access those fasteners and if it's due to corroded framing, corroded or loose fasteners, broken adhesives, poor original installation, etc. On my Bounder, it required subframe welding, replacement metal, new wood, fasteners but it was tight as a drum thereafter. If you are asking the question, then I will assume you are not experienced in fabrication. So, you will need to get an eyeball from someone who is. I doubt your going to get much help from a forum otherwise.

Yes, that's the diagnostic connector. I can't remember if it's a "quarter twist counterclockwise and pull" or if it was threaded out the whole way....probably the latter.

Looks like maybe a coolant sensor. And something yanked the cable off that bent the connector pins. I would look around for that loose cable.

Y, for sure. And are those thin rings a PITA to install....they creep out of the ring compressor and make it really tough to get the piston inserted into the bore....

What's the Magnum manual say? I suspect nothing is wrong. Sounds like it's working fine.

Any AC repair shop for auto / trucks. Nothing special. Easier than a car. The issue will be "where did the freon go?". If you need a recharge, then there is a leak that needs to be repaired first. And how do you know a recharge is needed? Sounds like you need basic AC diagnostics first, then if low charge, to find the leak (the hard part) and then to repair the leak (depends on what it is) and THEN evacuate and recharge. The only thing that is different from an RV to a Car is: The hoses are longer, the parts are generally more accessible on an RV, and the control systems are generally simpler on an RV. The downside is the shop has to want to work on a long vehicle.

I would degrease and power wash and then wait to dry before applying any coating or material. But that's just me 🙂

https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/385310887-magnum-opus-3110-3010-circuit-board/

For what purpose?

That is the air intake for the motor. It leads to a "Plenum" formed into the back cap. At the base of that plenum is typically a water drain in case rainwater (or other) is allowed to enter the plenum from above. So the motor doesn't ingest the water (a very bad thing). Ensure that drain isn't clogged...it typically will have a "duckbill" at the end to keep insects from nesting in the drain tube.

Does this coach have suspension control arms that allow the Rig to move forward/ backwards as the coach is lifted / dropped? If so, then they can "bind up" and release which causes that sensation.

I would not. First, if you have a heavy DP, you will probably overrate the single jack. Second that is a single point of failure (for either the jack and/ or the differential case). The other reason is you are then suspended by a triangle. The coach could twist (not good for windshields or slides!) You likely will have to be underneath the coach to jack the single center jack...not good for health and well being. Best is to use the Leveling Legs to lift the whole unit and then place your stands under the Frame (not the suspension). If you are under the suspension, then the rig may still fall. Use proper rated floor jacks on solid surface. Know that most jack stands are rated as a Pair.

We hardly hear from those that had an RV drop on them.

You can lift with the hydraulic jacks and then you MUST put properly rated jack stands under the frame and ontop of boards that the jack stands won't punch through blacktop. Never get underneath an RV that is only on hydraulic legs (or air bags).

if you look at the owner's manuals for many of the jack companies (like HWH), they say to spray the chrome cylinders with silicone / WD40 (check your manual for the specifics) to avoid corrosion. Certainly that is for when the jacks are extended for long periods because they are protected when up by the hydraulic oil....so that would imply, they are perfectly good with leaving the jack extended for long periods, as long as you keep them clean and coated. "Basic cleaning of the complete jack assembly is accomplished with the use of soap and water. Spaying the jacks with a spray wand at a car wash would be acceptable. The only time a jack rod would need cleaning is if the jack has been extended for a period of time. The jack should not be extended just to clean the rod. WARNING: If the jack is extended, use soap and water or WD-40 on the jack rod then wipe the rod dry with a clean cloth. FORWARD OR BACKWARD WITHOUT WARNING CAUSING INJURY OR DEATH. IMPORTANT: Do not use a dirty rag to wipe the jack rod or do not wipe the jack rod if it is coated with dirt. This could scratch and damage the rod. Make sure to use water or WD-40 to loosen any dirt before wiping the jack rod. If the jack rod has been greased or silicone sprays have been used on the jack rod, use WD-40 to loosen the grease or silicone and wipe the rod clean."

If you look at the listing, it does have a salvage title with "mechanical" issues. We all know it's really "electrical". This is all part of the Buyer Beware part of salvage bidding.

Can you post it? I can also PM you my email (I'll do that too) One has to be a bit nutty to take on that project...but I posted my "Return from the Dead" thread just to show I am a bit nutty 🙂

Anyone have a full wiring diagram for this puppy? Curious on what a "Plan B" might be... https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/mountainaire-back-from-the-dead-394089.html

They are also called Repeaters. You will need it.

Jacks should not retract over time unless there is a solenoid, fitting, hose leak which is abnormal. Ensure you don't have anything under the coach or extended slides just in case. Air bags will deflate.

Step1: Determine where the leak is and fix it Step2: Remove all soft / damage wood Step3: Clean everything and bleach for mold Step4: Take advantage of the walls / floor being opened up and run wires, undercoat, paint, upgrade stuff etc. Step5: Close up the floor and walls Step6: Fix the cosmetics Other than the general info above, would need more specifics from you. But to answer your direct question- fixing floors isn't so hard. It's all the other stuff that is.

I don't know of any 360 systems that are that inexpensive. And, no matter which, they all will be made in Asia. Especially at low price points. How do you plan to install this? How will you run the camera cables (needs 4 cameras)? Post a link to cameras that you have found.

post a picture so we can see what the story is.

The T valve handle typically just screws to the chrome shaft. If for some reason that is stripped, you can use pliers to pull the shaft out to empty the tank (certainly the discharge hose is connected first) Once all is empty, I would flush the tanks and empty again. Then let the drain valve sit open. Replace the blade valve / T handle with new. Simply remove the four screws around the perimeter of the discharge pipe, put a drain pan underneath, crack open the joint, remove the valve, clean stuff, lubricate the new valve, replace valve, snug the screws in a progressive torque cross pattern. Not super tight.

You can straighten the hoses out to get more flow out the intended duct. Since the duct hoses are inside the RV, the cool is just cooling near your feet. If you insulate it, then more of the BTUs will go out the duct exit. But less cooling around the hose area so insulating them is a pro / con decision. If you make the hoses more efficient, then you won't have as much issue with needing insulating.