DavidL

Remember with LEDs that the wiring polarity makes a difference...plus to plus, minus to minus.

you weld with the water in the tank. so no vapor to ignite. Certainly not touching the weld point so you can get some heat into the weld.

Sounds like you are getting ignition or alternator noise in the cable. Is yours a diesel pusher? If so, then likely not ignition. You might have a ground loop in the Kenwood installation. Usually heard through the speakers...what is the gray box? A choke installed on the kenwood power line might help. But that's just a guess right now.

Ah stop it. it would be 300*50*.9 or 13,500 ftlbs. Exaggerating!

the roads just got a bit more dangerous... It would be fun to torque some wheels they just finished with to see how consistent they are tightened and to what torque.

If the shop doesn't use a torque wrench, go find a professional shop.

that looks like an adapter. My guess the cables pull out of the adapter. Because it is knurled, perhaps it twists apart. Would need to experiment without overdoing it and breaking the ends.

Amazon didn't do NM to ft lb conversion correctly...737ftlb rated,

Just for kicks and giggles....is the torque meter connected to the lug nut socket or to the wrench (that is connected to the multiplier)? Needs to be directly on the socket. How many multiplier is your torque multiplier? If "5", then you need to be able to put about 100ft lbs on the Input side. That will give you typically 100X5X 0.9 or so or about 450 ft lbs. If your wrench had a 5 ft length, then you would need about 20 lbs of force to get 100ft lbs. I think you can handle that!

https://www.rhsheppard.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Power-Steering-Gear-Seal-Kits.pdf Order the correct one and install. At least parts look to be available.

No

Is that the heating element side or the power side? You should be testing with a multimeter. Check that you have + and - 12 volts when the heater is supposed to be on. If yes, then check for continuity across the heating element. If none, then either the element or the "snap disc" (which I assume is a heat switch?) If you don't have + and - 12 when its supposed to be On, then check fuses and relay. If fuse is good, then relay might be pitted. Check that you have voltage to the relay and that it "clicks" when turned on / off. If it clicks and not +- 12 out of it, then relay is suspect. Diagnose first, apply voltage later.

You might spray some WD40 into the switch and on / off / dimmer a bit to clean the contacts. If that doesn't work, then you will have the switch so you can take a picture or get a part number of of it for finding one.

tire could have been underinflated which causes the tire cords to overflex and ultimately fail. Who knows. Just good to hear no significant damage or crash.

So sounds like it had quite a bit of fuel in the oil. Hopefully no wear damage. The somewhat good news is that diesel has a little bit of lubricity on it's own. You might swap the oil / filter and then start it, stop, wait and get a good level indication on level ground. Then run it to see how much fuel is entering the crankcase. If noticeable, then I wouldn't drive it. A little bit won't hurt things. But if it were mine, I would be diagnosing the issue and ideally repairing that before running the motor (post oil / filter change).

How did the diesel get in the oil? How diluted is the engine oil? How long was the diesel in there? Was it then run / driven? how much? I assume that issue is now fixed? Then, yes, the next step is to flush out the oil and replace. Then it can be started and driven. But do that before driving it 200 miles...

Depends on the motor for sure, but typically the ground goes to one pin, and the hot goes to the other. Not typical for the case to be the ground though it might also be grounded. If the case is grounded to one of the wires, then you would get a big short spark by connecting it the way you did. I assume the motor is reversing...changing the polarity typically changes the motor direction. Usually done by two relays on the control side. But if no Move with Power, likely Dead Motor. Just for kicks, bang the motor to see if that improves the situation...If it does, then the brushes are bad but at least you know you are testing it correctly.

What would keep one from installing an electric air pump to engage the cover? I don't know your system diagram but it can't be all that difficult.

I believe you are good to go. This should be a 4 season rated rig. Just keep it liveable. And check your bottom compartments, especially the wet bay to ensure it's heated. There may be a separate thermostat for that zone. If the factory HVAC system doesn't give you temps (my Newmar doesn't...how silly), then it's a good idea to put a remote thermostat in the wetbay so you can monitor that without having to open up the bay door and let all that nice heat out.

any home improvement store (Home Depot) has the metal foil tape in the Heating / air Conditioning department. It is used to seal duct work.

You will have to determine if there is an unusual draw, or if the batteries don't have capacity, or if they aren't being charged. Let's assume the batteries have capacity since you advise they are new. Are they connected correctly? Check that the four 6 volt batteries are putting out 12 volts ie: they are properly wired in parallel. Put an ampmeter on the circuit to check for draw. Monitor this on a regular basis to see if something is turning on periodically pulling lots of current (like a refrigerator) Check with the system connected to land line that you have More than say 13 volts ie: the charging system is working. How long have you noticed the condition? What changed at the same time? Let's assume you noticed that the batteries weren't lasting as long as they used to and that's why you replaced them. And then at that time, now you have to run the genset to charge them which historically you didn't need to do that...well, that points that when the batteries were replace, that something wasn't wired back the way it was / is supposed to be wired.

hoses break from flexing. Ensure the hoses are tie wrapped to keep them from bouncing around. The pump only runs when using the leveling system. On mine, one is not supposed to run the system more than 5 minutes at a time with like 15 minutes cooling period inbetween. I love these Cummins replies...prima donnas that charge an arm and a leg. Pressure wash and degrease the underbody so the princesses don't mind the next time...

Whatever brakes you have should be checked on a regular (like annual) basis. Just like tires, hoses, grease points, rubber, etc.

Latex paint for drywall is typically very thick. It will try to fill the grain in fabric that will change the texture of the fabric. Use fabric / plastic paint for fabric. Home Depot / Lowes paint department (spray cans). Depends on what look you are going after. But Latex on fabric looks like a major mistake.

Here is an upgrade...certainly will require more stuff to make it functional. Need to double check the "logic" of the valve's outputs matches yours ie: which ports are open together, vs which is closed when valve is moved to full position. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWR2WKW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details