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JDCrow

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Everything posted by JDCrow

  1. I was thinking same. The above pic looks like the upper flange is shorter by 1” or so
  2. I can appreciate this! We are currently in the planning phase of a new home and new building for our business. Both will have propane/natural gas generators as backups. Not only for natural disasters, but I am beginning to worry about forced shutoffs due to power grid strains. Glad you are safe and sound through all that
  3. I hear ya! I’d be sunk if I couldn’t do most of this on my own. In fact only reason I thought of an older coach is the fact I could work on it. And go off topic if you want. It’s my thread and I won’t throw a fit here r we ramble. I love to ramble
  4. I believe it! I guess I was going off the price. My $30k Monaco Vs $2million Newell as the extremes of the cost spectrum.
  5. LOL, if you have that kinda money, a coach is the least of your problems for sure
  6. It’s why we own Monacos. Unlimited budget would have pushed me to Newell
  7. Got the old girl up to the lake. She’s set for the summer. Will have more projects this winter, but should have a new shop! Safe travels out there
  8. I did just the 2’ or so that peeled back from the front cap.
  9. I tried some 1 1/4” self tappers and couldn’t get them to go in. So went with the 3M and rivets. Would have liked to get some screws in
  10. 2 piece Aluminum with the Big buck rivets down the center.
  11. Yeah installing my Talin plates gave me the idea for the 3M. Good to know on the expansion. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. I almost bought the fast cure version, but feared if I had a blow out I’d be in trouble and end up with the grinder.
  12. I bought 1/2” Rivets and got just enough bite in them to suck it in. I was worried as well and was ready to Jamb a 2x4 staked in the ground up against it.
  13. Realized I should be posting here. Anyway if moderators want to move the last few topics to here, great! So I noticed the roof had let go and pulled back about 2’ in length. It made sense on how to do the repair. But after digging into it, the rivets failed, and there is a strip bonded to the sidewalk and the roof rivets into that strip. Well they didn’t hit the holes right at the factory, missed some of the strip. I was worried about using rivets again, tried a self tap screw to no avail. While this might not be the right application, I decided to use 3M marine adhesive. The stuff is solid once cured. After cleaning up and drilling out some rivets, I gave it a go. And it set up nice. today got the trim piece in and caulked the strip. Turned out way better than I thought it would.
  14. I’ve seen those on James’s YouTube channel. Pretty slick
  15. Yeah these are new, lippert. They had some wonky topper that you could pull down over the window and secure it to the side. The topper itself was too short to make it to the ends of the slide. So never sure if it’s value. These cover the whole slide, feel a little more protection from leaks
  16. Did the bed slide last year and just wanted to get out and have fun, so put this one off till now. Ran into solid frame on one side so of course the screws broke instantly. Drilled out and ran some sheet metal self tappers
  17. Thanks! It’s a one piece skylight, and I used the rivet gun. Just the right about of tension to squish the self leveling without breaking the plastic. Worked slick
  18. Well, weather is turning fast so got it in. I’ll have to come back and maybe do what Gary did, add some tape to cover the stained areas from the tar. Maybe tape off and add more Sika Used everyone of these tools
  19. We noticed water in the inner skylight. I thought hey, if the RV geeks can do get it done, so can I. Well, yeah for pop rivets
  20. I use a black toilet plunger with a slit in it for our electric cord. Now the Sewer hose is a tough one.
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