JDCrow

That’s awesome! My intention was not to be a jerk, but I’ll pass on what I recently learned; The more info you can give, in the beginning, they quicker ones here can help. The engine displacement for instance. I threw out 8.3, another said his coach of the same vintage as yours had a 5.9. A few responses back and forth, and you see where we are at. I’m sorry about your pump. A plus is I believe is a CAPS 1, which is easier on the wallet then the CAPS 2 Please keep this thread going so us here and any in the future can get an idea of the problem you are having and the solution/cost. Safe travels JD

My point exactly. And yes I assumed. 8.3, but if OP doesn’t know, my heart goes out to them for this.

Yeah shops say lots of things. I don’t have faith in a lot of shops to tell the truth

ISC Cummins (I assume) is top right of engine looking at it from rear. It’s just above the front engine cover

Yeah I’m fine, I appreciate your concern. While I know the mechanics of what I have, the theory and testing is the knowledge I lack. Tom, you have an insane amount of knowledge, and have been a big help to me. I’ll admit, I have to slow down and reread what you have posted as it is way above my pay grade. While I was a math major in college, it was in probability and statics. My grandfather was amazing at all things electrical, I wish he was still around. As far as adaptation of dogbones, I hope I was clear, it’s been 50 amps the whole time until yesterday when I arrived home and posted I was on a 110 outlet. It actually seems like that was a godsend as it set a lightbulb off for Tom and maybe have found the solution to all this mess. The hardest part through all of this, is I trust everyone here more than I would a shop in town or on the road. That’s the beauty of this board, the experience that is here and the willingness to help. I updated my signature, and will keep in mind the next thread I have to start out with not only the issue, but what I have as far as a set up. again, many thanks

Yeah I will add the set up to my signature. Thanks for help Clarifying JD

Good morn, The Multiplus 2 boosts by combining your battery bank with whatever shore power you have to handle the load up the 30 amp threshold JD

Thanks, I just came home and the Coach was dead again. The 15 amp breaker was flipped. I moved the cord over to a 20 amp outlet and got the neutral warning again. Unplugged the camco cord at the dog bone and the watchdog fired right up again with no codes. Ordering a new cord and the other items you suggested. I’m not following you on toggling the Intellitec to 20 as with the Multiplus boost I have 30 amps of power, unless I’m off on that as well. Anyway, thanks for sticking with me on this JD

Well, I’ll have to go back and read what you said 😂 Well there ya go!

Just got home, haven’t read through your posts, but I had a weird wrinkle. The Watch Dog threw up an E6 code and said my 110 connection had and open neural and it would not allow power in until remedied. Took a pic, and 15 seconds later it turned on and is letting power in. I don’t have the Multiplus dialed in, so I can’t view it, but it appears that it is doing its boost thing as the intellitec is showing 30 amps available, one a 15 amp circut from my shed. And sure enough, able to run an AC with just yje extension cord from the shed. Anyway, I’m going to open the watchdog as well and check for anything out of the ordinary in it as well, Thanks JD

I’ll try and go through you posts and digest. I apologize as my attitude is not on point, and I’m sure it’s coming across as unappreciative. I have way to many irons in the proverbial fire so to speak. A work property, and personal property I’m working on, And It’s difficult to be somewhat handy and knowledgeable. Not a knock on my family, but when they know you can do stuff, they seem to seek you out for their projects. It’s get a bit overwhelming, honestly at times I get get to feeling unappreciated for the output. So my sad sack story to round about say thanks and Sorry, everyone have a good night

Not sure how to process that. Again my understanding, when not hooked the shore power, the ATS switch defaults or clicks on to the Genset circuit, wether there is voltage from the Gen or not? The ATS stays connected to the Genset circuit until it senses voltage from the shore power circut, then there is a delay, and then the switch “disconnects “ from the Genset circuit and connects to the shore power circuit. My theory, there was a voltage drop/outage, whatever at some point or my watchdog prevented power from coming in, so in either event, the ATS bumped from the shore power circuit to the Genset, but did not bounce the circut back when shore power was available again. It still maybe at the PED, to me it’s going to be one of those things that I won’t be able to catch or test for. But the obvious that the watchdog read voltage and amps, but the Coach had no power for who knows how many days, leads me back to the ATS. I’ll switch out the ATS to the Progressive this week and if I can find room with the wires, a breaker as suggested. The second week of Sept I’ll be exclusively on Gen power as we are dry camping while salmon fishing. My hope is nothing happens, at all. It might tell me I have the coach solved. IDK, I’m simple minded and trying just to follow the current and what it’s doing. Thanks again and I’ll pull the Go Power ATS apart and post pics of what it all looks like. Maybe someone with a sharp eye can see something in its guts.

Thanks. I thought it was the other way around, when shore power isn’t available, the switch always defaults to Gen. So I was thinking that the switch “unconnected” for whatever reason, went back to generator input, and didn’t recognize that shore power was available again so never clicked back onto the shore power circuit.

So an update: After a great conversation with another member, we came to the conclusion that others did, the ATS. I put in and order for a new LYTE ATS and it’s sitting here in the box. In the mean time, been with the coach 2 times, and zero issues each time, until today. Arrived and Coach was dead. So instead of just going to breaker at PED and cycling it, I flipped on the watchdog app. This time there was voltage and amps on the readout. I believe this further solidifies that the ATS is kicking out and not making a solid connection. Thanks again for everyone’s help

Mine is in front driver side bay. Where the electrical is.

Exactly! He’s kinda at that point where he really could hire a crew to do the work and someone video and edit his stuff. He has such a good reputation and knowledge/skill set

I think he could make a lot of money doing a master class type of set up. I’d pay to learn how to do some of this stuff

Yep I watched the video last night

Just watched that last night. Coach was in good shape. It's an 09 though........... When things started to unravel for Monaco.

Yep electric flush. Took mine out when I redid the floor and put a gravity flush.

Well, I cannot give direct experience, but Henderson’s is right up the road and they have lots of experience with Monacos

Yes it is going to main 50 amp in panel. I’ll pick one up. What you discussed makes sense. Thanks Thanks that is absolutely where I stand right now. Headed back up Sunday with my tools to get in and see what the ATS looks like and see if anything is loose. The kicker to me is that it started with I work fine for 5-6 hours till we left. My step father was a lineman for many years and he said nothing worse than a self healing circuit.

Thanks for your input. So a manual selectable switch? I have one from battery to the Multiplus but not from the transfer switch To the Multiplus. I figured you’d just unplug/flip off breaker to the Coach or turn off the gen. Much easier than unlocking a bay door I reckoned, but if it’s needed can do

Thanks that’s it in a nutshell except the microwave isn’t separate, it’s in the breaker panel. Yes the power comes out the ATS and into the Multiplus and then straight to the breaker panel, then out to all the circuits in the Coach. My main rational was the clean power. You also get the luxury of plugging into just about any size outlet and the Multiplus will take battery storage and combine with the outlet to meet the load demand. No tripping 15 amp breakers in an friends house to run the microwave and watch tv Anyway, not sure it the way anyone else has done it, but it the way I went about doing it. It wasn’t hard. The hardest part was fishing wires up and down. The microwave had its own circut out the Xantrax, so I had to fish a new wire up and use a junction box to mate the two together in the back bay. I can take more pics if anyone is interested in how I set it up. thanks again and I all

For this reason I did splurge and buy my Multiplus 2 from the local dealer. And bought the wires, terminals, heat shrink, etc.. they’ve been there when I needed help programming.