Cubflyer

My care free arms like that were bent and damaged beyond repair, I replaced the arms with "Eclipse arms". I think I still have the brackets and I do not believe they are broken. I will have to look, you are welcome to them if you cover the costs of getting them to you. Ken

Here is a block diagram... I believe it's pretty generic/common set up. As you see, the inverter is powered by batteries or when there is shore/gen power it "passes thru" that power to the circuits 'on' the inverter... ie, microwave, TV, kitchen, etc... so if those circuits are getting power when the genny or ground power is powering the coach and not getting power when the inverter is turned on and drawing power from the batteries.... it must be broke.... I think..... blockRVpowerdiagram.pdf

Checked the output circuit breakers on the inverter?

Based on what you just reported, pushing the inverter button with no shore power gives you what is in the photo, and pushing it again the display goes blank.... is normal operation (at least that is what mine does).... now the question is.... Do you have any ac power to anything in the coach when the "inverter" button has a light on?... I do not see any "DC Amps" lights on in your photo, when I turn my "inverter" on (with that button) there is no DC Amps at first, then a few seconds later the first light comes on along with power to the ac circuits on the inverter. I believe that indication (DC AMPs) is the inverters draw on the batteries. When using the batteries to make ac power the inverter can not charge the batteries..... Ken

Glad you posted the photos, you need to delete the other two posts to help eliminate confusion.... I agree with Jim, it seems you are on shore power, in that configuration the shore power is supposed to 'pass thru' the inverter and power the outlets on the inverter circuit. To tell if your inverter is "inverting" you need to disconnect from any power source (except your batteries), push the "inverter" button on that display and the inverter should power (some) outlets, probably the microwave, not the air conditioners.. If it does that it is 'inverting'.... it could be possible that the inverter is doing that but not passing thru shore power... or passing thru and not inverting... check it out and get back to us. As for the wire in place of a fuse.... no telling, but until there is an overload condition it does not matter if it is a wire or a fuse. Ken

Markings like that used to be used by junkyards to identify their stock, so it may be a replacement engine. Kind of old school, now days they use barcodes in a lot of places.

Jim, Interesting experience! I have seen some (weird to me) voltages on this coach indictor, I guess I have been spoiled with solid power grids in my life and when the voltages are different between legs it is not the power source but my connection. I also have never "monitored" the power voltages so closely. I actually have a LPT50BRD in my Amazon cart and just did not know if I should "pull the trigger" in it.... My IOTA does not appear to have any problems (visual inspection) but the contacts could be getting sketchy. Jim and Todd, The control/monitor panel is currently in the compartment with the power cord, I probably need to relocate it into the interior of the coach to save me from wondering around in the dark and the rain.... it would be easy to do... Ken

Todd, Thanks for your help, I am a newbee to these products, your post got me doing a search for the manual and read it. I should have done that before I posted my question. Now, if it does it again I have the "codes" and their meaning and also know the designed ranges that it works within. Ken

Thanks for the test idea Dick, I would not have thought about that technique and I do carry a Fluke meter. Also the "108" min volts....I did not have a guess what the range should be. I have looked into the IOTA and it is not showing signs of heat damage and the connections are good and tight. Todd, "smart" coach... but dumb owner 🙂 Thanks for the info, I was wondering the function/capabilities of the PI... If it happens again, I will have to pay attention to the "codes" maybe it's too sensitive... or maybe it IS doing it's job.... Thanks! Ken

While out on the road for our first big trip in our new to us, 2003 HR Endeavor . At two different campsites the motor home power cut off. Working fine one minute, dead the next, nothing new turned on. We were plugged into 50 amp service both times. I checked that the plug was in the receptacle tight, unplugged and plugged in again, looked at the voltmeter and amp indicator back where the cable enters the coach. The voltages were un-even, like 109 and 120, amps were "0" and it may have been giving me an error code but I was too tired to write it down and just wanted to get some power on.... at the one campsite the power reset and came back, at the next we were just overnighting and I used a 110vac/15amp extension cord to power a portable battery charger and used the inverter to keep the frig and a medical device operating all night (probably could have just used my batteries but we were paying for power) Didn't need A/C It was about 11pm when things went south... Generator powered everything but we were in a campground so I did not run it long.... No circuit breakers were tripped inside or outside of the coach. Here's the question.... This coach has a IOTA ITS 50R transfer switch (for sure), Progressive Surge protector? and monitor system....?? Is this a sign of the IOTA going bad, or are things doing what they are supposed to and tripping off to protect the MH? Is this "normal" to have splits in the voltages on the two legs of 220vac 50 amp power and is this something common at RV parks? In the morning at the second place I asked neighbors if they had problems and they did not. Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?? Ken

While out on the road for our first big trip in our new to us, 2003 HR Endeavor and at least two different campsites the motor home power cut off. Working fine one minute, dead the next. We were plugged into 50 amp service both times. I checked that the plug was in the receptacle tight, unplugged and plugged in again, looked at the voltmeter and amp indicator back where the cable enters the coach. The voltages were un-even, like 109 and 120, amps were "0" and it may have been giving me an error code but I was to tired to write it down and just wanted to get some power on.... at the one campsite the power reset and came back, at the next we were just overnighting and I used a 110vac/15amp extension cord to power a portable battery charger and used the inverter to keep the frig and a medical device operating all night (probably could have just used my batteries but we were paying for power) Didn't need A/C It was about 11pm when things went south... Generator powered everything but we were in a campground so I did not run it long.... No circuit breakers were tripped inside or outside of the coach. Here's the question.... This coach has a IOTA ITS 50R transfer switch (for sure), Progressive Surge protector? and monitor system....?? Is this a sign of the IOTA going bad, or are things doing what they are supposed to and tripping off to protect the MH? Is this "normal" to have splits in the voltages on the two legs of 220vac 50 amp power and is this something common at RV parks? In the morning at the second place I asked neighbors if they had problems and they did not. Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?? Ken

I'm embarrassed ! ... Showing my age..... I have not wired a house or even shopped/purchased any romex since 1998.... and that was is Mississippi... they are probably still usin' and sellin' white sheathing wire in all sizes....🤪

Sounds like you have it under control. I have noticed the orange romex and the yellow romex..... not sure why the different colors... or if there is any reason or difference or significance..... if there is and you figure it out please let me (us) know.... Ken

But you are not tripping any circuit breakers... a shorted wire 'should'..... if you can, (and have not already) disconnect every wire (in the circuit that is bad) and meter each one individually..... you should be able to meter each one from point "A" to "B" (one end to the other)... which will help to find out where each one starts and ends and may surprise you with a component you did not know was there.... Wish I could be there to help as this is best done with two people.... Ken

If the "rules" on Motorhome construction follows home building and other industries, there should be no "slices" outside of "j" boxes and no "j" boxes should be buried, they should all be accessible (but may be well hidden). That said, I just noticed an outlet behind the radiator in the back of the coach (and a plug hanging there unplugged,... engine block heater??) Ken

Jim, Good to hear you are getting to the root of your problem.... and if I understand correctly, your Generator was shutting down due to the overload (short) in the coach... Good knowledge to have.... could have spent a lot of time and effort fixing a generator that had no (direct) problem. Hope you get your villain's worked out.... I'm confident you will..! Take care, Ken

I did my own, pretty simple operation with a helper, but does require working where a fall is possible.... be safe.

Again, the injector pump input pressure as well as the injector pump output pressure is not what determines rail pressure... that is the rail pressure regulator and it's return lines function. Your FASS (like mine) output is regulated by it's return line (that is supposed to be separate from the original line) so your FASS pump is not over pressurizing the injector rail..... if the injector rail regulator is operating correctly and has a clear (drain) return line (it is a separate line from the FASS return line?... if not, all bets are off and disregard everything I said.... Ken

Wow, the floor bulged?!?! Guess I'm not being paranoid when I take the gravity fill cap off when I'm filling my water tank thru the pressure fill....!

James, (Edited)...So in a word..."NO" It seems to me you are confusing the high pressure (injector rail) side of the fuel system to the low to no pressure side (the side from the fuel tank to the inlet of the injector pump). I do not believe the original lift pump returned any fuel to the fuel tank, but if it did it was very minor and only for the first 30 seconds while it ran. The injector, (or any pump) pressure output is little (if any) affected by inlet pressure, and by design the "rail pressure" is regulated by the rail pressure regulator (by restricting the fuel returned to the tank). The injector pump could put out 100psi to 10,000psi and as long as the rail pressure regulator and return line is large enough, the rail pressure (theoretically) be maintained at any pressure between 100 and 10,000psi. Your fault code is more likely a sensor acting up than an actual pressure problem, but if the pressure is fluctuating, it is most likely a regulator problem not a pump putting out too much pressure. On this type of system (pressure rail), the pump runs wild and the regulator (with a clear return (drain) line) controls the pressure. Ken

Bob, I blew my gen fuel supply line out back into my tank... I do not believe "jacjames" has yet... I suggested he try it... When I got my coach the fuel in it was black... seems to be cleaned up now after the install and running of the FASS filter/pump system and "bioBore" treatment... and now clearing my gen supply line.. fingers crossed.. Ken

The Inverter could be the problem, causing the generator to "overload" and it auto shuts down to protect itself.... I think that is basically what mine was doing.... the generator was unable to "accelerate" to meet the load (due to fuel starvation) and would auto shutdown and throw the 3-6 code... Hope you get it figured out.... it's a pain to not have a good reliable generator! Ken

I also used "biobor" (Killem) after I changed the filters (both engines) and suspect dead algae may have been blocking the generator fuel pick up.... the main engine has a "serious" pump sucking on it !.... and I can always see the positive pressure on the inlet to the injector pump so I may never have a problem with it clogging, but I have no idea what those pick up actually look like... are they an open tube or do they have a screen or a "filter" ??...just do not know. Ken

Except for getting under the coach, blowing the fuel line out was pretty easy (easier than the filter change) wish I had done that first (before changing the filter for the second time).... hope you track down the problem, I think I have mine solved... for now, time will tell... Ken

My FASS fuel polishing system runs between 18-22PSI (depending on engine load) have not had a problem. Pressure reading "tap" is between FASS system and Secondary fuel filter, where the "primer" "lift" pump used to be (now plumbed out of the fuel system) Guess I need to learn how to "see" those codes you mentioned..... could this problem and your generator problem be related to fuel contamination?? Ken