Cubflyer

Does your panel indicate the amps being drawn from the Generator?.... if so, does it jump up, like way up when you try to put the #2 inverter on the load? I had problems with my generator when I was out on my 6 week trip, gen would quit with a 3-6 code, (which is a general code)... when I tried to run both A/C's and my (one) inverter to charge the batteries.... it was very unstable running. I had fuel contamination in the past, (and similar surging and shutdown with a 3-6 code) and had changed the fuel filter before the trip and it ran fine (for about 45 hours). So on the trip, I changed fuel filter again, ran fine for about 20 minutes and became unstable and shut down (3-6 code). Knowing the fuel filter was not clogged (new), I disconnected the fuel hose and used my onboard air and a shop hose and blower nozzle to blow out the line from the generator to the fuel tank.... after a good priming it started and has run stable since (about 6 hours)..... maybe you are having fuel starvation problems..... clogging filter and /or supply line... Ken

My experience with my RR8R chassis (and my first ever driving of a MH) was that with no additional suspension upgrades it was a monster! every bridge crossing or dip or groove in the road or car and especially trucks coming by was a test in driving skill (with a slightly loose steering box). First thing I changed were the shocks, all 8 with standard "magnum" Monroes, it drove better on the way to the tire shop. Drove a little better with all new tires and a trip across the scales and tire pressure adjustment, but still had the feeling I was driving a shipping container connected to a chassis with rubber bands with a mind of it's own. I installed just the front swaybar (the rear was not available at the time (mid May)), BIG improvement, more stable on the highway, less lean, felt more "connected" but still would go left or right with bumps and dips (always a thrill to head a new unknown direction while you are bouncing up and down). Next came the front watts link and rear crossbars..... this past month I drove from near Memphis TN to Denver and then across I-70 to Salt Lake... lots of rough roads, dips, construction lane shifts with changes in road surface, huge dips and bridge crossings, trucks passing, etc and it drives straight... the coach is steady, and my steering input is only to guide it down the road, not to try to keep it on the road. My personal opinion is that with a properly built suspension a coach should go straight and steady and the driver should only direct it, the driver should not have to keep the coach going straight. Coming across Kansas even the winds were not much of a bother.... I believe the watts link in the front and the crossbars in the back "stabilized" the H frame so it does not "pivot" (causing steering input in relationship to the rest of the coach). This was the biggest help, and the swaybar in the front reduces and controls the tilt side to side in the front. Having a especially precise and tight steering box is not needed if the coach is stable on the road (it's a lot easier to stand on a solid platform than on a ball) I'm still considering adding the rear swaybar and rear watts link..... and maybe higher dollar shocks in the front, but I'm not going to replace my steering box, I'm not driving a NASCAR or INDY car... I think I added the minimum that these chassis' need to be safe, without the watts link and crossbars these chassis are just plain squirrely...unsafe at any speed over about 55mph.

Jim, Sounds like I need a system like that... need to go shopping!

Bob, so it's not a problem with how I have my switches... it's the way things work..... When I drive, I've been using the inverter to power the (household) refrig... from the house batteries, as it is now, this leaves me with low batteries when I get off the road, requiring that I either have shore power of run the genset to keep the frig working.... hummm I gotta do something about this....

Good luck finding cooler weather out west here right now... I was in Denver last week for record setting high temps, now in Nephi UT "enjoying" high daytime temps... On your battery subject... I have found that my engine driven alternator does not seem to charge my house batteries when I'm on the road.... gen or shore power charges the house batteries, if I select "charge" on my Xantrex panel. Do I have a problem or a switch-ology problem...? Ken

We came across the whole state of KS on I-70 a week ago Sunday.... made it to Denver just in time for record heat --- 100 degree days, day after day... Stopped for an overnight in Wilson, KS at a Missile Silo Harvest Host deal. I was pleasantly surprised how well my RR8R chassis is handling with the newly installed front swaybar and Watts link and rear crossbars. Drives much different (better). I head out to UT thru the mountains on Thursday on I-70. That will test the suspension and engine/transmission power.... fingers crossed I'm not crawling up the long uphill grades at 45mph....

Timaz996... did you miss what I said about the valve..... I learned about it on YouTube...!!! and it worked! OBTW, I would love to get a little more power out of my 8.3... looks like you have done some things.... what's possible to get more than the advertised 330hp? Ken

sounds like you are looking for something like this: https://dicorproducts.com/product/coolcoat/ I have heard "ceramic" coatings work, not sure about "silicone"..... I have no experience or affiliation with either product But I do know a pole barn roof over your RV will keep it lots cooler! 🙂 Ken

When I changed my coolant filter on my 2003 HR Cummins 8.3 that filter was just next to the (Big) oil filter. about the size of a "normal" car oil filter. There is a valve right above it on the housing it screws to that will shut the water off so you do not loose much, and you could fill the new filter before install with coolant. Mine was so old, on there so long it took a very good filter wrench and a long >24" breaker bar.... so be prepared! Ken

Example of ugly black diesel fuel.... as for recommending Bio cleaners, I have to leave that to others.... I'm trying the "mechanical" cleaning with the FASS filter/pumping system, because it served two purposes, I needed a lift pump and I wanted "solid" fuel to be sent to my injector pump (so the injector pump was not trying to suck fuel from a fuel tank 30+ feet away thru two filters) the engine primary and secondary filters were just as black as this photo of the gen filter fluid.

Mr Bob, I'm new to these engines too, happen to have the same coach as you, '03 HR Endeavor, and like you, my unit sat for a while before I bought it this spring. I'm not new to engines in general.... and it sounds like my situation... Diesel fuel should not be black, you need to deal with the fuel contamination (your diesel fuel is "growing micro organisms"). My coach now has a FASS system. My hope is the FASS system "polishes" (cleans) the fuel and my current filters are not full of black when I change them in a few thousand miles.... When I removed the old filters, both to the main engine and my generator the fuel filters were black. My generator was barely starting and would shutdown under load. Now it starts right up and purrs.... The main engine used to "pound" now it hums.... Clean fuel is a wonderful thing. Ken

Are you experiencing oil usage? How much? You may be victim of someone seeing some seepage thru the turbo seals (from sitting), unless it gets excessive, oil is cheap.... JMHO, YMMV....

Jim J, I used a #10 union with a 1/8" NPT tap out the side for a pressure transmitter/gauge to connect the original flex hose that comes from the primary filter (removed the primary filter and installed my new pump and filter system at that location) to the rigid line that feeds the secondary filter. Capped off the in and out fittings of the "lift pump", disconnected the lift pump electric connector and installed a 10 ohm resister across the wire harness connector. No "engine" lights.... Ken

I got mine from American Diesel Performance, in MO.... TS-165G-P.... just under $700 shipped to my door. you will need a long (34+ft) 1/2" fuel hose to run back to the fuel tank. There was a round "conduit" that passes from the suspension area in the back to the suspension area in the front (on the drivers side) where I routed the hose and some wiring thru. Ken

My waterproof LED strip light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R1S9LM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 came in and I modified one of my ceiling light fixtures. The 16' strip is enough to do 4 of my lights, it takes some soldering ability and basic understanding of DC electricity (Black is positive on my MH, white is negative, red on the lights is positive, black is negative) I removed all the guts that operated the fluorescent tubes, left the switch that controls the 12vdc, wired it directly to the one end of the LED strip. Peel and stick the strip around the perimeter of the housing. See the photos, the LEDs come in "warm white" and "white" These are warm white and in these photos look dim or brown, but in real life they are only a slightly "softer" white than the original fluorescent lamps. The green tape is because I had an accident (don't let your screw gun fall over on the lens) with the one lens but DJR1SR Dennis is helping me out with that!

Return hose and fuse block came in and I finished up the install.... cranked it up, fired right off and ran smooth as glass! Spent the rest of the day securing the wire harness and return hose. Installed a new secondary filter (filter with water sensor connector) that is just before the CAPS pump/injector. I can not imagine that EVER indicating there is water to be drained with this FASS system installed! Can't wait to test drive it! Ken

Making progress on my FASS system (fuel polisher and fulltime lift pump) install.... I'm doing this on my 2003 HR Endeavor (Monaco) RR8R chassis. I 'tapped into' the "Ignition" on power up front in the FWD LH basement compartment , used an open fuse holder and routed the wire back to the RH Rear Battery bay where I (when the fuse holder gets here) plan to mount a remote IGN buss. (to control the PASS pump and any other accessories (electric FP gauge)..... Hooked up the relay power wires to the chassis batteries and did a quick ops check of the pump by touching the ign on wire to the + of the battery, pump ran so quiet I did not know it was working until the fuel started coming out where I left the second filter loose! Wow did it pump! Should get the fuse holder/buss and the return hose I ordered later this week.... hook them up and be set to go! Ken

Gary B, Where I can I'm doing a straight bulb replacement for hot wire and halogen bulbs, but on the 12v florescent bulbs they are really pricy... >$14 each and I have 6 overhead fixtures down the center ceiling of the coach with two bulbs each. So, my plan (I will post photos as I get one modified and installed) is to use LED light strips around the inside of the "gutted" housing and reinstall the lens cover. I have used these style LED strips under the cabinets in my kitchen at my house and they work very nicely there, even without any lens cover. Ken

Dennis, Looking at the map, Fords Garage is the other side of Orlando from my brother who lives in Oviedo, so please ship me a cover. Message me for shipping details. Ken (Cubflyer)

Van, I'm totally with you on all this.... as for my knowledge on electrical systems... very knowledgeable... In a past life, I installed avionics and other electrical components in aircraft. 12v, 24v, and commercial airliners. I have not unpackaged the FASS electrical harness yet (that's tomorrow's project) but it is my understanding that they use ign. switched on power to control a relay that is connected (with a large fuse) directly to the chassis batteries (not the "House" batteries) to power the pump, if that is not how their harness works, it will be the way I make it work.... I do like your idea of having a "buss" (fuse block) controlled by the ign switch in the "on" position, located in the back by the engine. All the items you are powering with that are great features!

Jim J, So do you think I could pick up a "switched ignition" power there to control my FASS pump relay?

My FASS Titanium Pump and filter kit came Monday, I've been working on the install. I found a conduit by the left frame rail that runs from the back to the front and 'fished' a 1/2" return hose from the "primary filter" near the A/C bay just aft of the left rear wheels. Photo attached Built a bracket to bolt the FASS pump and filters to that bolts to the original filter bracket out of some 3" angle iron. Photo coming... Built a fitting to combine the fuel tank overflow/vent, (a 3/4" pipe thread tank opening) into a FASS 1/2" return pipe and a 1/2" tank vent. Photo attached. Now I need to find a good place to pick up a ignition on power source... I found these (photo included) black squares with wires going to them in the Battery Bay area... are they "Terminal blocks"?? photo included. Comments? Ken TITANIUM FASS .HEIC

I'm doing exactly that same thing right now.... but I'm reusing the fixture and just changing the guts out to LED....... and I broke one of the lens covers...sure would be better to have a new one rather than gluing together the broken one... Where in FL are you? anywhere near Orlando/Sanford?? Ken

Vanwill52, Totally agree... I'm looking for the fuel cleaning also.....Thanks!

Steven P, These are the replacement "bulbs" that I used in my 'down' lights around my coach by the windows.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDIGCY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They originally were the halogen bulbs like yours but had a reflector behind it that the bulb style you linked would not fit, I removed the reflector and hot glued the connector into the housing, plugged in these flat lights and remounted, installed the cover with the lens... worked great, looks good, only negative is they do not dim... but I do not care... Ken