Cubflyer

Kenneth, and others, We are at a Loves here in Laramie, they found a pump at Freightliner (thanks to Rik's post and photos). They are scheduling me into the shop in the morning. I do not believe the radiator/intercooler/other radiators need to come out to get to the pump, but I'm not going to be doing the work..... I did not bring enough tools to be sure I would not come up one wrench or pry bar short. I believe working thru the closet manhole, that the wire shroud can come loose (maybe a couple of bolts from underneath), rotate out of the way and then get to the tensioner, once the belt is off, remove the tensioner, get to the bolts on the water pump and R&R. But, again that's my guess, and how I would try first before 'digging' my way in from the back.....

Rik, Great info and photos. Any chance you have the part number handy of the "new" style pump you installed? (you have the same year and model coach I have, and your old pump looks just like mine) Thanks, Ken

Kenneth, I've tried O'Reilly's and no joy... great idea on the airport car, I had not thought of that... sometimes it pays to be a pilot..! Ken

It is leaking profusely with no cap and even with the engine off.... decided to park it here in Laramie until fixed. I'll be doing a lot of walking unless I find a rent-a-car.. Wayne, Note to self... do not breakdown in Rawlings, WY .... very limited resources. I hope things work out as good as that for me.

Thanks for the replies, NAPA part search was while in Rawlings, they said Laramie had one, not sure the search extended beyond that. NAPA in Laramie, where I'm at, is closed today but stores in Colorado open at 9 today and I will be calling them.... and even if they do not have it on their shelf, maybe they can get one soonest. I will sign up for the Cummins Quick Serve.... but I have to find my s/n. As for continuing running with filling water every 20 miles, we are re-evaluating that idea... may get a rental car and chase the part with that and just hit the only campground in town for a few days.... they were booked up for last night so we spent the night in a truck parking lot. Ken

So I'm on the road from SLC to DEN, overnighted at Rawlings, WY ..... arrived there in a rain/hail storm, got on my site and hooked up... water everywhere... This morning as we pulled out the "water low" light came on, I stopped at a local autoparts store on the way to the highway and when I came out with some antifreeze I found out why the light was on.... big puddle and active dripping. Probably leaked all night.... No parts or repair shops in Rawlings so off to Laramie where there was supposed to be a pump. Managed to keep adding water as we go and monitor temps, got to NAPA and they only had one of the two different pumps they showed in stock so I bought the one. I have since looked closely at the new pump and compared it to the installed pump and no way it is the correct pump. Managed to get these numbers off the pulley... 3286293 which crosses to the NAPA pump that was out of stock. Called all the usual local autopart stores and none carry (keep in stock) the cross referenced pump. Hoping I can try NAPA between Laramie and Denver tomorrow and get lucky with one on the shelf. Meanwhile, keeping water in the system I'm going to try to head south tomorrow... anybody think that running mostly tap water for a few hundred more miles will hurt anything as long as I keep water in it?? Ken

I can tell you that I put a short section of LED light strip (3 LEDs) in the bottom handle housing and wired it to the chassis batteries and it lights up the acrylic bar nicely, full time if the batteries are connected.... I used the bottom because of more space, but the top may be better to keep the strip of LEDs out of any moisture... Ken

Thanks Dick B I was going to but needed the info you just provided! Thanks Ken Ken Cox, Yes I had to trim the interior plastic. I head to Denver area next week... be there a little over a week... if you want to get a closer look. Ken

While I had my door apart for adjustments, and liking the convenience of the electronic door locks. Today I removed the original keyed deadbolt and installed an Electronic Keypad Deadbolt (Defiant from Home Depot about $60.00) It was no easy, bolt in task. Had to open up the steel frame hole to a more round shape, had to disassemble the new 'bolt' part to attach the extension. Had to modify it to make the connection with the extension. Then, to get the inside 'box' to fit the area available, I had to mount the whole thing upside down. Works great,, no more keys, lights up to see the keypad in the dark, one button locking. Worth the effort (to me at least)

Dave L, Let me re-state my "twist" statement for you....... While leveling my rig, I dump air, raise front (dual posts) with one control, followed by the rear jacks to level fore and aft, I then adjust either right or left rear jacks to level side to side following the manufactures procedure. I believe this is putting a normal "twist" in my chassis, and my coach door would not open. Now that I have assured the latch posts are "moveable" (as designed) my door is functioning correctly. I can "flex" or "load" my chassis for normal leveling and my door no longer "jams" A certain amount of flexibility of the chassis is normal and the door should not jam within certain limits, my door was jamming because the latch posts were not moving as designed, not because I was "twisting" my chassis excessively. Others here may be experiencing the same problem with their door and understanding that the door latch posts NEED to have movement, and are DESIGNED to have movement, and if they do not have movement the door will "jam". The windshield is also designed to "float" within it's framework, in that big rubber seal. I believe if your chassis is flexing enough to break a windshield while leveling either the chassis has problems or your windshield is not mounted properly. Ken

Reading this thread about the door latch inspired me to open my door up this morning (we are in a campground 1200 miles from home, with limited tools.... ) My wife has not been able to open the door as it takes a special 'TUG' and only releases at the very end of outside handle travel. Less than an hour later, I have a door that she can open easily, releasing the latches at about 1/2 travel of the outside handle. I adjusted it at three places, the "turnbarrel" (which does not turn one way to shorten and the other to lengthen, but must take one end lose to add or subtract a turn) The other two adjustments were at the upper and lower latches, just turning the nuts there to take out slack. Another problem I have been having is that when I try to level my coach if I 'twist' it level with the rear jacks the door "jams" and I get "trapped" in the coach, the inside handle, pulls but the door will not push open. Somewhere I read that the latch "studs" are supposed to move (up and down)... my upper one moves but the lower one was rock solid.... I got it freed up and now I need to test and see if the door opens now when I "twist" the chassis. I believe they were designed to move slightly (about 3/16" total travel) to keep them from binding up on the latches with chassis flex. I'll update when I have tried it. Ken

JD, I went with a wireless system... much improved from the factory "color" system... still running both but really can't see much in the original. works really good to know you are clear after passing on the highway. of course good for actual backing up.. Ken

Mike, Please post the part number and source you find for the indicator light... as my light is inop (but I have not researched why)... Ken

Rik, I have the same coach, it was not charging the "house" batteries while I traveled. I replaced that silver colored relay in the center of your photo with a Blue Sea ML-ACR. I was on the road so I did not connect the remote control. It has worked great in "auto". If I should need to do the "Jumped"/"Combined" batteries I can manually do that. It's not like I would need to do that on the roll.... What it does, is that no matter what is charging the batteries, inverter or engine alternator or even a battery charger connected to one of the battery sets both sets of batteries get charged as needed. When discharging either set of batteries they are separate. You can manually over ride that separation by manually moving the yellow knob (or remotely if you install it). Ken Rik, The hardest part about the swap out was I had to use a step drill to open up the holes in the wire terminals to fit over the (bigger) terminal posts. I left the purple and white wires disconnected... Ken

Jim J, >>>So in the future, if I have to bypass/remove the inverter how do I get the 12 volt circuits to work?<<< My guess is to connect to the chassis the big black (negative side of the batteries) cable while the inverter is removed..... there is no other reason the other 12v items on the circuit would be inop other than the ground is missing. Weird to me that the only connection of the house batteries to ground would be thru the inverter but if that is the only negative side of the batteries disconnecting it kills the circuit.... Ken

My limited knowledge of the electrical circuits in motor homes..... I believe the things that the inverter powers by "inverting" 12vdc into 110vac are all powered "thru" the inverter. TV microwave refrig and limited outlets..... When there is other power available (genny, shore power) to the inverter it passes that power (by way of internal-to-the-inverter relays or transfer switch) to those (TV, Micro etc) outlets. It sounds to me like the internal to the inverter relays are losing contact, for whatever reason (loose, dirty, worn out) Ken

John C, Thank you so much! I have been searching for a wiring diagram for my '03 Endeavor since I bought it in February. I have an ABS light on and system inop, the Eaton wiring does not show the "test module" that the motorhome uses and so I could not 'chase wires' to/from it. Codes are showing speed sensor problems but they all ohm out good... thought I would check all the other connections before I started pulling wheels (can't get to the rear sensors with wheels installed). Or the problem may be in the Eaton abs module (not the test module) located center coach. Thanks again, Ken

John C, So some kind of service bulletin?? Thanks! I think this may be the answer to the cut wire. Clearly it was cut intentionally, wish they would have also capped them. Then I would not have questioned it. Do you have a link or something to what you screen shot? Ken

I could not make out anything, but I can only see a small section... (as shown in the photo) I'll have to look harder! It's either pin #1, #4, #5 or #8 of that connector....;-)

I had the cover around the steering column off and found this (obviously) cut wire... see photo I have not noticed anything inop that is controlled by things on the steering "stalk"... turn signals, lights, etc Anyone have any ideas? I have not found a wiring diagram of the wires to the connector shown..

According to my manual (HR Endeavor) the only "switch" that controls the electric LP shutoff valve is the switch near the tank outside the coach with the red light next to it. That said, IF power was cut-off to that switch (by way of the 'house disconnect switch at the door') it would make sense that the valve would cut off.

try coachglass.com

My switch is outside, under/behind the "basement' door that gives access to the propane tank and fill port..... 2003 HR Endeavor... seems you are looking inside... Ken

I used the Clear Gorilla glue to bond .040 301 Stainless Steel plates to the bottom of my bedroom slide where the rollers were starting to cut into the fiberglass bottom. Worked great and now the slide travels in and out with lots less (fingernails on a chalkboard) sounds..... Good stuff, but something that flows and slow curing makes sense for the sidewall project.... We have another 4 week SLC/DEN trip to do, then it's flooring and delam project.... like someone said (I love it !): 'The only thing that always works on a motorhome is the OWNER'... Ken

Jim, You always seem to be one project ahead of me! My fiberglass below the drivers window is delaminated, badly, the wood paneling behind it is totally rotted away. I have been thinking of doing the same kind of thing (use a piece of plywood as a form) and inject expanding foam behind the fiberglass hoping it would fill the void and create a firm surface attached to the fiberglass. I never considered epoxy (I am familiar with West Systems product) and now I'm thinking about it... Great post! Thanks! Ken