Cubflyer

Rich, The filter in the photo that you posted is (by part number) the primary filter. It has a drain valve on the bottom..?? Is it mounted on the engine?? My secondary filter on my 8.3 Cummins is mounted on the engine between the lift pump and the injector pump, it has electrical wires and connector plugged into it, not a drain valve. That wire/plug senses water and lights a light on the dash. In theory, the primary filter should not allow water to pass to that filter... so that light should never come on. I believe you have found your primary filter... and it's ugly! Ken

The symptoms you have sounds like the pump is losing prime somewhere between the pump and the fuel tank. All it would take is a pinhole in the supply line, bad seal at the first filter, or a loose fitting on the supply line. It would not leak fuel externally, because that line is not under pressure, actually either neutral or vacuum. If you can disconnect the hose at the fuel tank and put pressure on it, fuel would leak out,? Or maybe just put some pressure on the fuel tank and go hunting for fuel leaks?

On my HR the "primary/main" fuel filter is mounted in a compartment on the drivers side, behind the A/C condenser. My condenser swings out to open after unlatching it with a special key. My primary filter had a clear bottom.... the secondary filter on my 8.3 Cummins, is mounted to the passenger's side of the engine (as engine is mounted in coach). That filter has a electric sensor plugged into it (that detects water). I am not familiar with a Neptune.... hope you get it going Ken

It's not clear if your fabric is coming out of the retainer trim or the retainer trim is coming off the side of the coach. My slide covers were fabric and the cord that holds the cover in the retainer is wrapped in the fabric. The thread had failed in the center area but not at the forward or rear ends, allowing the fabric to come out of the retainer in the center area. If that is the case, replacing the cover is less work than trying to re-sew the old cover. Ken

Ali, The amount of motion shown in your video is very little for a steering wheel, connected to a steering box through two universal joints, and the box itself is not a rack and pinion (like most cars are today) but a worm gear with some 'lash', with a pitman arm sticking out of it connected to a push-pull rod with pivot points that then connects to a tie rod with more pivot points..... Do you get the idea that I do not think your 'wandering problem' has much to do with your steering wheel movement? There are many posts in this forum and others that goes into the ways to improve the stability (ability of a coach to roll straight and not wander all over on it's own). Look for "watts link" "cross bars" "sway (stabilizer) bars". I believe your coach may not have these items and adding them will make it drive more like other large vehicles you have driven. The Roadmaster chassis in our coaches have a mind of their own without these stabilizing accessories. Ken

I agree also, that is why I have one available, I have the Watts link on the front along with the swaybar and the crossbars on the back... huge improvement. Ken

I have a safe-t-steer for my RR8R, never installed, that I would be willing to part with...

I believe the "standard" for buried power cables are 'min 3 ft' deep. As for size of the wire, that is based on load and distance (and maybe type of wire...copper/aluminum). You can probably find a chart for that online.... 50Amps---100+ feet.... = wire gauge.. "0" or "00" or ?? But since you are starting with a 100Amp CB the cable needs to be able to carry 100 amps... (the CB protects the cable, not the load). I think you also should bury a 'tracer' streamer a few foot above the cable... but I do not know the rules on that... Ken

Is there a blinking light fault on your generator control switch after this shutdown? That would indicate to me that there is some kind of short circuit in your 120vac system, something that does not 'kick in' as soon as ac power is put on the system. Maybe an air conditioner??

Great to hear you are no longer stranded! My son lives in Salt Lake area, so I'm out that way some.... so I may collect that drink! Safe travels! Ken

Some how lost it's prime??? Try going thru the first startup procedure I think I remember something like leave the second filter loose?? It's been a while since I did it... So try loosening the second filter and run the pump... it should start leaking out that filter and the pump should get a 'normal' smooth sound...

in a word, YES.... I have done both, run generator and a portable compressor, and run engine and plugging my air hose into the air coupler near the generator. Good luck with your project. Ken

Nice job! I have over 10k on my FASS filters, and I started with terrible (black) fuel. Struggled keeping the genny running (filters stopping up) at first, but now that I've 'polished' my old fuel and continue to 'polish' my new fuel, the genny filters seem to have returned to a 'normal' service cycle... Engine has run flawlessly with the FASS 'lift pump' running full time. Seeing no less that 17psi under high load, 18-20psi at lower loads. Plan to replace FASS filters when psi gets down to 10psi.... based on psi instead of mileage or time. Ken

Tom Cherry..... Good info and if the bugs were not such a nuisance, funny stuff..!

My radio died this spring just before my trip... I have a portable XM radio, and a set of AC powered speakers with subwoofer, got a small 12vdc to 120vac inverter. Life is good... I would still like to get the already mounted radio speakers powered up and working, so I'll be watching how you get your tunes back... My whole audio/video entertainment system is a mess... maybe this winter I can sort it out... Ken

My advise has been for those with Cummins engines.... sounds like your running a Detroit Diesel that has a different system. I "felt" my system needed a relay because the foot switch I have is a single throw single pole switch and it can only control one circuit, and my Exhaust Brake circuit is made up of two circuits... therefore a relay is needed.... Ken

Not sure what you mean.... but I do know that you need at least a Double Pole relay (two switching circuits controlled with one relay coil). Both DavidL and I used something like this.....https://www.amazon.com/Electromechanical-Relay-Double-Throw-160Ohm/dp/B00B8889JC/ref=sr_1_14?crid=DEHVE8TK4ROS&keywords=double+throw+relay+12v&qid=1659111427&sprefix=double+throw+%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-14 OR https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Indicator-Electromagnetic-General-JQX-13F-DZ-DC12V/dp/B08HM1QW5H/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2EZTXQP90QDM7&keywords=double+pole+double+throw+relay+12v&qid=1659112425&s=industrial&sprefix=double+pole+double+throw+relay+12v%2Cindustrial%2C74&sr=1-18 I put the "control" (coil) power on it's own circuit (from the forward power box) so that the foot switch was totally independent of the normal switch... Something like this will not work, unless you parallel the control circuits .... I do not recommend doing that.... https://www.amazon.com/PACK-AMP-Waterproof-Relay-Harness/dp/B074FSZWVT/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc%3Aamzn1.sym.9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc&crid=DEHVE8TK4ROS&cv_ct_cx=double+throw+relay+12v&keywords=double+throw+relay+12v&pd_rd_i=B074FSZWVT&pd_rd_r=3fbb8216-db27-4d91-8a24-77727c916a27&pd_rd_w=CS8mY&pd_rd_wg=N1u7q&pf_rd_p=9e69e792-0ff0-4e1a-b10c-a41b9d9b3ffc&pf_rd_r=1ZHFKXQREX95E909VE16&qid=1659111945&sprefix=double+throw+%2Caps%2C86&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&smid=A1M1RWN6HRL8BC&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQjdTSlFTTUsyQzIxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTgzNTY1RjZLSElVNzIyMjU4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxOTA4MTcyRklQQlNQQlREUFZKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Hope this helps.. Ken

Hey All, Reporting back after my travels from the mid-South to Reno, NV area and back.... Adding that foot operated Exhaust Brake switch is a great and simple mod. First advantage is that the foot switch cancels the cruise control without hitting the brakes. Second advantage is that I never 'forget' to "release" the exhaust brake switch.... something I did all the time with the panel mounted on/off switch. In my installation, the little light in the normal panel E.B. switch does illuminate when the foot switch is activated. (Happy about that). My driving experience was definitely enhanced. Ken

I only have one to do... my entry door glass has 1/2" of water in it (plus the fog above)... I use it to level the coach front to rear... going to miss it when it's gone... NOT.!

Yep Ivan, I saw that "guide" and it is 'pricey'... $30+ BUCKS..... I'm feeling I can do a good enough job without it since once installed no one but me will know how nice it looked.... I may try to build my own out of a block of plastic I have.... A reasonable price would be about $3 for that tool (IMO) Ken

Amazon has it too.....https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVUZBAS/?coliid=I3JD1R4A165QS7&colid=338IBKLHBB9F5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it also need edge sealant... Super Spacer CRL #877.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVUZBAS/?coliid=I3JD1R4A165QS7&colid=338IBKLHBB9F5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I just ordered the above from DK.... giving AMAZON a rest..... Ken

Bruce, Are you having trouble with the door or the frame the door closes into? Seems most of the advise given is for the door itself..... I believe the "pins" that the door latches to on in the frame are actually designed to "float". Ken

RVhorod, Dennis: You most likely have a Eaton/Bendix Gen 4 or 5 ABS system..... JacwJames provided the above PDF of their service manual. page 24 is where you will find the 17-1 code as Ivan explained. Before going too far troubleshooting be sure to check the "configuration"..... There are some 'resets' that can only be done with a computer hook up. Wheel speed sensor faults sometimes require a drive down the road to 'clear' Ken

Thanks Gary, I was wondering if I would need to open the "box" in order to replace the switch and properly place the end of the probe, or if I could just pull it out (without damaging the evaporator) and stick the new one in at about the same position. I was afraid it was attached somehow or could not be placed properly by just sticking the new one into the original hole. Being held with a clip or even just the fins and/or in contact with the cooling tube means to me that this is a project for after my current trip. Any 'clues' to opening up the box/access to the evaporator coil? It does not seem accessible from the front (where the tube comes out and the switch is mounted). I have not looked on the dash side.... In Denver currently, getting the part Sunday, hitting the road Wednesday, so I guess I will just keep "manually" controlling the compressor..... beats not having any A/C. Ken I got brave today, gave the tube an aggressive pull and out it slid from the evaporator box. Seems to just go in there straight about 6", does not seem to be attached at all.... So when the new switch arrives it should be an easy install....... I hope.... Ken

Has anyone changed one of these switches? It is the switch that shuts off the compressor clutch on the engine if the temperature at the evaporator gets to about 38 degrees so that the evaporator does not freeze over and restrict airflow. It uses a 'bourdon' or 'capillary' tube to activate the switch. Mine is not making the circuit anymore... A/C works great (too good.. freezes up) with the terminals of that switch jumpered.... I've been 'nursing' it along by manually switching between "A/C" and "vent". Does the tube just pull out of the case? Is it attached inside or just sticking in there? I have a new switch/tube coming and wonder how hard it is going to be to change. old part number is A46-3211-000 2003 HR Endeavor...