cbr046
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Posts posted by cbr046
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There's a valve on both hot and cold water circuits for dumping / winterizing the lines. If either CW or HW are left open and pump is on it will empty the tank. Not a failure item IMO.
edit - OK, didn't consider higher end coaches. Endeavor / Diplomat are pretty basic.
- bob
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It looks like the power supply wire (+12V & Gnd) for the original TV selector switch / antenna amplifier.
That's my guess and I'm sticking to it.
- bob
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When you say some outlets don't work are you saying some outlets DO work back on shore power?
If so, which ones work and which don't?
- bob
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My parking spot isn't level so I need 3 ramps (one wheel is the "reference") every time I come home. Fun stuff.
Don't forget a block of wood to keep from dropping over the edge.
- bob
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OK, I'll bite . . . What is the EGR Ugly Fix and why would someone need it?
- bob
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Excellent research. Thank you @Tom Cherry
- b
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Why would MS purchase Bluefire LLC? Doesn't make sense.
- bob
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3 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:
It's likely a bad sender or a short to ground on the sender wire.
Disconnect the sender lead at the sender and see if the gauge falls to zero.Just the opposite on my ISC. The sender (round chamber w 2 wires) loads the circuit (10 ohms at 0 psi). Disconnect the sender and gauge should peg to the right. Sounds like a) the wire fell off or b) the sender is bad.
The sender at the starter (ISC) is for low psi only.
- bob
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7 hours ago, Rob Wilmes said:
Already ran out of fuel coming back from a trip. Didn't realize at a 1/4 on the gauge I was empty
@Rob Wilmes Do you remember getting a yellow "Low Fuel" light on your dash for the last 10 minutes of fuel?
- bob
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If you install the headlight relay mod you could still be blowing fuses . . . .
There's a white 6 pin molex style jumper plug under the dash that many have had trouble with the contacts burning out. They should be under the dash but I found mine inside the steering housing. This plug is inline with the headlight circuit. 💡
Poor contacts won't blow the fuse but it does make a good place to pull the jumper apart and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, your short is upstream from that plug. If the fuse doesn't blow you can take an ohm meter and, with the headlights disconnected, start troubleshooting for the short. 🔎
Keep us posted. We all love a good mystery.
- bob
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Maybe the Centroid sender has a separate wire for that last 10 gallons . . . .
The light worked on mine when the gauge read 3/8 tank. Unfortunately I trusted the gauge and not the light. Cost me a long walk carrying diesel, twice.
- bob
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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
When you want MAX HEAT, you turn the control to MAX AC. You rotate the temperature Valve to MAX HEAT. That activates or causes the control on the water valve to close the valve.
Yes, works better than the other positions (floor, dash, etc) but when I did this my compressor locked up. Pretty sure it was coincidental . . .
- bob
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Are you replacing exhaust manifold also? Look for cracks and / or pitting.
- bob
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9 hours ago, Bill C said:
In which order would you try replacing the components?
I'd start with the cheapest and work up from there, or shotgun all 3. Be sure to use a good soldering station and static precautions. A 100W Weller gun is not your friend.
- bob
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The latter looks like a xxx batch or plant ID with 9934 date code. MC33030P is the important number. "P" is the type of package - DIP or dual inline package. A different last letter might work with modified last resort kluge wiring.
- bob
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With the slide out there will be a LOT more tension on the spring. That would make me nervous.
When I swapped our topper I moved the slide out just enough to work with it, and inched the topper in both coach and roller grooves simultaneously . . . but I also locked the bar in place to keep the original tension. Not an option in your case.
I started over once when the bar broke (sheared at the pin) on a previous coach. I don't remember how many revolutions of pre-tension it took (9 revs?), but it's probably different anyway.
- bob
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Not sure if yours is air or electric but on our 03 Endeavor and many other models in this coach class we need air pressure to move the step well cover.
- bob
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10 hours ago, pwhittle said:
The IC’s are still available. I expect the regulator is too.
@pwhittle You might stock up on the MC33030P controller IC. I only checked a few places and everyone was out of stock . . . except ebay and those pirates are asking $30 - $40 for a single IC! 😮
Still better than scrapping and starting over . . . but geesh!
- bob
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If it were matter of tightening some relay mounts, wire connections or box mounts I imagine someone would have suggested it . . . . but that would be my first go-to to lessen the hum or at least get it back to "original" hum.
I'm imagining Esco will recommend complete replacement for liability reasons.
If you do open the box be sure to disconnect from shore power and not run the genny. Hopefully that goes without saying.
And of course keep us posted what they say.
- bob
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You might check with Talin and see if they can "sneak you in" for a quick adjustment. Asking is free.
- bob
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3 hours ago, Endeavor04 said:
Morning everyone,
I did find a great price for replacement Sanden 4663 compressor. https://zulueta-ac.com/shop-now/original-sanden-brand-new-a-c-compressor-with-clutch-co-4663 it is less then 200 with free shipping. I hope that helps others. I am still in search of a drier and expansion valve. Hopefully find someone who can flush my system as cbr046 (Bob) has recommended. Hopefully I don't have any metal in my evaporator. Thank everyone for their replies and help. If anyone comes across crossover part numbers let me know. Biggest hurdle I think. Thanks again!
Brenner
Probably counterfeit. Just sayin
http://www.sanden.com.sg:8082/
- bob
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9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Next up…the popular Houghton RecPro has only a cooling thermostat.Also, there is only one brand and style of “dumb” thermostat that will work. If you use a typical RV thermostat, you must put in a relay to have dry or unpowered contacts for the furnace.
Yes, it can get very complex with all the combinations not engineered to work together.
I was thinking something like THIS for a standalone furnace control. Simple, and been using one a 2 wire version for 120V in series with a space heater for many seasons. It's just a simple temperature controlled switch. I'm guessing 2 wires connect and 2 wires disconnect at the set temp.
Oddly, the 2 wire version is in Celsius . . .
Again, this is just one piece of the puzzle, but it frees up options for heat pump / AC / multiple zones. Choose carefully!
- bob
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37 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Somewhere, and I have posted this many times, is a special mechanical (no incoming power) thermostat on Amazon. It allows you to adjust the temperature and it operates and runs the furnace. BUT, it HAS to have or should have an OFF setting. Many don't…
THUS…a functional thermostat hard wired from the furnace…
If I were contemplating an upgrade this is probably the approach I would take. MicroAir, or something with bluetooth option, and an independent dumb thermostat for the furnace. Hopefully that won't be soon.
- bob
Heater Core or AC Evaporator Issues?
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted
Radiator cap is 14 psi? Whatever it is, that's the pressure throughout the system. If it survived 35 psi it's a good heater core.
If it "leaks" make sure your AC compressor isn't engaged and the evaporator isn't forming condensation. If the AC compressor is on the low pressure tube (the larger diameter one) will be cold and may be sweating. Easier to touch the tube at the front vs opening the rear bedroom hatch and looking at the AC clutch.
- bob