Gary Cole

Thanks for your perspective Ray. I was guilty of judging the man without knowing who he really was. It is true that part of being a good cop is enforcing laws they might not agree with. Difficult job for sure.

Wonder if vacuuming might not be a better option so as not to blow crud back into the drain pan?

I spoke to a retired California CHP officer a month or so ago at a Pilot. He said that he was going to take his Dynasty out of state so that he could have it chipped as it was illegal in California. I didn't comment however I thought to myself that here was a man who had spent his career enforcing and certainly harassing citizens with California's oftentimes crazy regulations and the moment he found himself on the other side he changed his stripes.

California has more regulations on the books than any state in the union. Every citizen of Ca. is a criminal of some sort. The authors of Soviet penal code 58, which made any act not explicitly allowed by statute illegal and subject to prosecution, would be so proud.

They like their government bigger and harder in California.

Tom you could determine the rpm by disconnecting a working motor and timing its no load rpm. The 9 A figure I quoted was from the picture Kenneth posted. That would certainly be locked rotor amps. Use that number if you purchase a replacement. Don't confuse that with no load amp draw which is what some vendors publish. I would be careful when measuring rpm because a slight difference in rpm translates to a significant change in travel speed with a rack and pinion gear system. If nothing else you can compare the diameter of the motor housing. These motors are probably series type with brushes so housing diameter is directly proportional to torque as the design is generic. Series motors are not rated in rpm. Don't think they would use a brushless or permanent magnet motor because of expense but could be wrong. If you do find a replacement let us know because I would buy a spare just in case.

Richard how much did it cost? What did the rebuild entail?

Manufacturers rarely reinvent the wheel when they build a product. That unit is just a typical 12 V dc gearmotor used in countless applications. I just looked on Ebay and a replacement can be had for $50.00 You will need to know the rpm and amp draw. 9 amps is a small dc motor at 12 V. I would upgrade so long as the rpm was the same.

Jim go to the front electric bay and pull every fuse. That will prove whether it is a load or not as Tom suggested. If you still have a problem then take a break and order a circuit tracer for $50. The circuit tracer signal will drop off at the fault to ground. Best $50 you can spend if you plan on doing electrical work on these coaches.

Jim you have a short circuit somewhere. The rheostat is acting as a resistor in series is probably the reason the fuse does not blow immediately. Does the fuse blow immediately when you rotate the switch bypassing the rheostat resistance winding? You can use the rheostat to locate the short. Turn the rheostat on low and check to see which lights are lighting. The lights between the rheostat and short will light however dimly. Any lights on the other side of the short circuit will not because the circuit has returned to ground at that point. Assuming that you do not have a low resistance ground causing the problem. Then it gets more complicated finding the problem.

I've been using the transmission pump to fully flush my transmissions for the last 10 years or so. The process is no different than normal pump operation so I would consider the danger of particles breaking lose myth. All the transmission knows is that the sump is full and is happy 😏. One does want to insure that the sump remain full with new fluid so as not to introduce air into the pump circuit. Though accidentally running the system dry would cause no damage. One leaves approximately 10 quarts of old oil in a 3000 Allison if the transmission is not flushed. I suspect the reason some particles might break away after an oil change might be due to the detergent action of the new fluid and have nothing to due with a flush.

The Carlington switches typically have two lamps. One is part of the general instrumentation lighting circuit and the other indicates when the switch is on. As such the switch lighting load is insignificant whether it is incandescent or LED. I don't know however I would assume the newer switches would be LED. I don't know how installing a relay would affect the resistance heat generated by the light switch as the rheostat is a simple resistance variety and integral to the switch. I dumped the whole mess when my switch failed and installed 3 separate switches for the headlights, marker lights, and instrument panel lights. I like having things separated as one switch failure or short circuit doesn't take other systems down. The Carlington switches are $20.00 and the plug housings with crimp connectors are about $2.00 apiece. One can buy aluminum bezels which makes cutting the hole and installing the switches much easier.

The measured voltage is due to impedance in the neutral conductor as the equipment conductor carrie no load unless there is a fault. When in doubt choose a space as close to the subfeed panel as possible. RV parks located on the coast are the ones to be vary of. The NEC recommends a combined voltage drop of no more than 5 percent feeder and branch circuits. I suppose that is the basis for the max 3 V recommendation.

I eliminated the switch. Replaced it with 2 1pole carling switches such as they match the existing switches. I don't dim the instrument lights. However if I did I would use a 12V/12V solid state controller available on Ebay for $5.00 or so and which is compatible with LED lamps.

The article stated that several engineers inspected the bridge pillar and determined that it had moved 1".

Opportunity for someone needing a left hand mirror.

I've noticed that truckers around here are increasingly using light bars. They are apparently available in brightness up to super nova.I heard that North American cars have inferior headlights due to DOT regulations which date to the Dark Ages.

One thing people considering a dash replacement might consider is that the Beede gauges are no longer available. In addition their accuracy is something less than desirable. For example, at certain fuel levels, the Beede gauge hunted constantly and even after I parked oftentimes the gauge would not return to a correct fuel level. I first suspected the fuel level sensor however when I replaced the gauge with a $65.00 Autometer gauge using the same fuel sensor the problem disappeared.

Rusty can you post a picture of your dash? I'm not familiar with the 2000 Dynasty.

John I purchased the unit from Amazon. Fursam or something like that was the seller. I would make sure the unit is actually full 1080p and supports the AHD camera standard. The first one I purchased was neither. Have to read the fine print on a lot of amazon products these days. Got a brick if anyone needs one. The panels are .125 " aluminum and black walnut veneer. Next time I would use something like tung oil rather than urethane on the veneer. I'm using the 4th and 5th cameras in a high low configuration at the right rear such that I can accurately judge right lane merging distance with the lower camera and see a long view of a street I might have to back into with the high camera. That can be a dangerous procedure at times.

I'm in the process of replacing my Beede gauges with individual gauges. Never liked the combined gauges and poor accuracy. I also wanted to make room for a 10" 1080p quad camera system and a 10" double din stereo system which gives me a 5th 1080p camera. Freed up a lot of instrument panel space with lots of holes left to fill with cool stuff.😀 Still a work in progress. Using the original speedometer and rpm gauge for now until I make a decision. I bottom hinged the fabricated aluminum panels so that they can be opened to provide easy access. Took a lot of cleanup and rerouting of the rats nest to accomplish that. Anyone that has ever looked under a Monaco dash knows what I'm talking about. Might go with GPS speedometer. Hopefully It's far enough along so that I can finish it when I go south with the help of a friendly UPS driver. Does anyone know where the coolant temp sensor is located and if the ECM and gauge shares the same output or the gauge uses a separate sensor. No luck on the Cummins site. Might not know where to look. The Beede gauge naturally uses a sensor with a non standard Ohm range. The photo is of a sensor located on top of the engine which I'm guessing is a high temp sensor as it is powered and seems to be NO at 45 F. The temp sensor to the gauge reads 90 ohms at 45 F and is not affected when I unplug the wires going to the mentioned sensor.

On the topic of mirrors. If you snag a Ramco mirror on something and break it off that can be fixed by filing the two faces flat and tapping both pieces with a 3/8 pipe tap. I used a stainless steel high pressure nipple to join the pieces however I suppose any non corrosive metal would suffice.

Ramco has a how to mirror replacement guide on their website with pictures. Could be used to fix a loose mirror. I did doubled up on VHB tape which is used to secure the mirror to the base.

I purchased a very low mileage 1996 300ZX, last year sold in US, at auction with what had clearly been multiple attempts to repair a non operating AC. When I called the local Nissan dealer to inquire about repairing the system he asked if I had a blank check.