Fasthobie16

Why would you consider even replying to CW or using their services?

I have the same coach and bathroom door knob. Same problem. I just took it apart and lubed it. When I put it together, left it a little loose and tightened up the set screw. Works good now.

Not really. Just have a sense of humor that the DW doesn’t always like. She says “ I can take him anywhere. I get lots of sympathy. “

That’s a good vent. We all need to do that once in awhile. I can relate some. Hope you feel better now. Merry Christmas.

GFCI receptacles trip when there is an unbalanced amount of current between the hot and neutral. That would mean that some is going to ground. That protects you from a shock or electrocution. Or …. They are wired wrong. You don’t say if anything is plugged in to the circuit or not. You may have a piece of equipment that may be causing the problem. Isolate the problem by starting out with one unit at a time till it trips. My coach 120volt panel has GFI breakers for the circuits that need that protection. (I have no GFI receptacles in the coach).They work much better than GFI outlets. If you install them make sure you wire the neutral (white wire ) for that circuit to the breaker and put the curly white wire on the breaker to the neutral bar. The you put regular outlets in place of the GFI outlets. The GFCI breaker will protect the whole circuit.

Finding new people to train in a profession is very hard. The young folks now are taught that everything should be given to them. Move up instantly. You don’t have to earn it. It’s just a “job” not a career. Move on to the next one. Not much work ethic out there now. We’ve spoiled our younger generations by giving them what they want, not what they needed. Guess you could call that discipline. Also we’ve become a “ throwaway society “. If it’s broke don’t fix it. Get a new one. Now days you can’t even get a new one sometimes. Supply chain is foreign. I could go on and on. 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40” Do my own maintenance and repairs with help sometimes.

Yes it did , while driving . Got to destination and got some wood and some sheetrock screws at the local lumber yard. Had a hacksaw and drill motor already. Old factory installation was glue only. Lasted 18 years. Did not want to go back with glue ( liquid nails).Braced the burner unit up from the bottom then installed four legs ( tightly) up against it. Screwed the legs to the shelf below diagonally which was carpeted. Had to cut legs a pinch longer than I measured. Trimmed till they fit good and tight against the unit and shelf. Still have lots of space there for storage even with the leg supports in place. Hasn’t moved in four years. It certainly won’t fall again. Easy and cheap fix. Didn’t glue. No need to. It’s solid. Jim 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40’ ’04 Liberty Toad

Tim and Rosa When my ice my quits, I turn off the refer, empty the side with the ice maker , direct a fan to it , mop out the water , put the frozen food back that I put in. a cooler , turn th ridge back on and it makes ice again. (Ice maker freezes up sometimes).

Home Depot This will fit your space with room to spare without a bunch of modifications. 13.9 cu. ft. Someone just posted this a few days ago. Think may have been BobJones. This unit is without an ice maker. They say optional. I did the JC 120volt conversation to mine. Did it myself but that was still $1200. I like the results. 3 years working great. Probably would go with the Frigidaire w/ ice maker now. 2000 Dynasty 40’ Home Depot This will fit your space without a bunch of modifications. 13.9 cu. ft.

So……Would you like to give us the model number for the Whirlpool?? Thanks

13.9 cubic feet. Just a little larger inside than the Norcold. Very nice. You’ve got to move out some of the CocaCola and make room for beer. LOL Three years ago my Nocold quit. Wasn’t wanting to do a lot of carpentry work either. Went with the Amish 120volt conversation. Did it myself. (About $1,200 us). Still the same refer but totally electrical now. Very small wattage used. I’m happy with it but I would put in the same unit you have if I was doing it today. Best Buy has them for $600us. Jim 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40’ 2004 Liberty Toad

I’ve maker filling?

Looks like a bad switch. Contacts probably burned an not making a good connection. That’s causing heat and voltage drop.

If you have electrical experience, I don’t see why you shouldn’t be able to do it yourself. Just copy all connections and wiggle the wires after you tighten them. Then tighten them again. Your going to get all kinds of recommendations for transfer switch’s. The Progressive HW50C is a not a transfer sw. it’s electrical management. Good unit if it’s the latest model. (Version 1.9 ) I have an ESCO ES50M -65N. transfer switch next to the Progressive LCHW 50 version 1.9 management unit. Serving me well for many years. My old Progressive version 1.8 failed. It was original. 2000 yr. No longer in warranty. New version is lifetime now. 2000 Dynasty 40 04 Jeep Liberty Toad

Isolate each item on that circuit one at a time until it stops tripping. GFCI ‘s see a differential (very slight difference) in amperage between the hot and neutral wires. If there’s the slightest leakage to ground,they trip. So something on the circuit is shorting to ground somewhere. It could even be a loose neutral connection in the circuit. RV receptacles are junk. Connections are plug in type. I lost a neutral in the front section of my 2000 Dynasty a couple of years ago. Turned out it was a factory installed hidden plug in connection under the floor of the overhead cabinets. (Found it with a tracer. Neutral connection was burned out.) I got rid of it and put in junction boxes inside the cabinets for access. Changed out a couple of receptacles to the type where you put wires under the screws. No problems since. Good luck trouble shooting. It takes time. I like to start at the very end of the circuit and work towards the panel (source) following the wiring diagrams. A digital volt/ohm meter will be helpful. It’s always something simple. 🤪 You just have to find it 😩 BTW….. I assume you have a GFCI breaker in the panel tripping. My2000 Dynasty has it’s own circuit for the fridge in the panel. I would think you should also.

Buried EMT? How long would that last?

I’m not an engineer or en expert on fasteners so I am sorry I offered any response to this post. What I said was what I’d do if it was mine. Thanks for the criticism.

Hole was a little bit hard to make out. Ok. See it now fix it. Blue Ox may or may not warranty your unit depending on age.

I don’t see the sheared bolt either in the pics. Pictures could be from before problem or after. Either way OP said he had a failed bolt. He did the correct thing and unhooked the toad and had the DW drive it home instead of trying to jury-rig it there.

Hey 4rickyg, Added a little more information that may interest you on my post.

The bolt pictured appears to be a grade 5 bolt ( three line marks). If it was my setup and a grade 5 bolt failed, I would replace it with a much harder grade 8 bolt (6 marks on head). Along with a grade 8 lock nut. On top of that, if you have some room to drill a small hole just beyond the lock nut for a cotter pin for additional security. Also I’d check the other bolts I see in pics for wear an replace it needed. It looks like the moving joints where the bolts are haven’t been lubed in some time. I see rust. ( Could be contributing to failure.) Squirt some oil on them occasionally. Moving parts née lubrication. Off topic, but maybe not. How long has it been since you’ve taken your tow bar boots loose and cleaned and greased the cylinder rods? YouTube has videos on that procedure. A well maintained and lubed tow bar aids in the hookup, locking, and unlocking of it.

The LF9009 is what I use on my ISC 8.3 Those filters hold about three quarts of oil. Be sure you fill up the filter before you screw it on the engine. You’ll need a large filter wrench. It takes two men and a bay to break those filters loose. They need to be tight. My engine takes 26 quarts total. Rotella T6 15w40. 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40’

Progressive EMS HW50C. Just installed a new one. My old one was almost 20 years old. Board failure. They only had a few years of warranty back then. The new ones are version # 9 with a lifetime warranty. But………. You have to get them from an authorized dealer. That way you will be sure of getting the version # 9 . Amazon is an authorized dealer. Got mine there . Be sure to keep a copy of the receipt. If you shop around be careful. There are some sellers selling the old version #8 units. They will probably be fine but you won’t have a warranty. (My old unit was version #8). The new unit is working great. BTW, Progressive has very good technical assistance too. 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40’ 04Jeep Liberty Toad.

For fuel additive I use ATF (1 qt. Per 100 gal. of fuel) lubes injectors and seals in the fuel system NAPA has biocides available for algae. MODERATOR's OVERRIDE. See followup posts. NOT doubting that "Fast" thinks this is OK and probably got a lot of good, seemingly, advice over the years. BUT, it is NOT recommended by CUMMINS, in fact, adamantly PROHIBITED. The Lift Pump method of refilling or using clean DIESEL is the only Cummins approved methods and any "AFT or other additives, not Cummins approved, will void the warranty"

Try lubricating all the arm joints. Not too sure you can lube the motor assembly. If the motor is bad, they’re very expensive to replace. You also may need to do some adjustments on the arms. There could be some binding going on. Also make sure the fabric is rolling up evenly. YouTube has some videos on Girard awnings. I had one on my 2000 40’ Dynasty. Always something to fix. Big gust of wind came up suddenly and broke an arm and the gears in the motor. Ripped the fabric too. Took the whole thing off. Would have cost at least $1000 to repair. Decided if I want to sit in the shade, I could sit in the shady side of the MH. Also about 200lbs. less to haul everywhere. Good luck in your trouble shooting.