Paul Busch Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I can’t seem to find anything on Monaco Signature 2005 headlight switch. Having trouble with low beams coming on. Hight beams work? Does anyone know what switch would work? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave P Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Not sure this will fit yours but most likely. Also read somewhere most Monaco’s used a Chevrolet truck switch near the same year as the coach. Napa Auto Parts would probably be able to find it if you take the old one to them. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Busch Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Big help thanks😊 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Paul, while head light switches aren't too expensive, I'd make sure yours is bad before ripping the dash apart. Often, when something fails, esp headlight switches, it's because of a faulty ground. First thing I'd do is check to ensure your ground wires are good. If nothing else use a jumper from a known good ground and see if your lights work correctly. If they do, either trace the grounds or run a new wire....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC2018 Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I would suggest you take a hard look at the headlight dimmer switch. To simplify the headlight circuit, headlight switch feeds power to dimmer that feed lightbulbs, hi or low depending on the setting. Since your hi beams are ok, I think maybe the dimmer switch may be failing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poohbear Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 19 minutes ago, RC2018 said: I would suggest you take a hard look at the headlight dimmer switch. To simplify the headlight circuit, headlight switch feeds power to dimmer that feed lightbulbs, hi or low depending on the setting. Since your hi beams are ok, I think maybe the dimmer switch may be failing. This ^ is what it sounds like to me I have a 2004 and the dimmer is on the blinker arm the switch is probably mounted somewhere on the steering column Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypoxia Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 11 hours ago, Paul Busch said: I can’t seem to find anything on Monaco Signature 2005 headlight switch. Having trouble with low beams coming on. Hight beams work? Does anyone know what switch would work? Do you have a Smart Wheel? Do you have DRL Daytime Running Lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Busch Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Jim, I do have daytime running lights although they don’t seem to bright. I had replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs in 2016 and the DS low beam quit working. I just replaced both low beams with newer version of LED from M4 and Steve said the new ones will run on 6volt for DRL which was a problem with the older version. The older version would just flicker with the 6volts provided with DRL. I will try tracing wires and grounds later today. If my light switch was bad the high beams would not work right? The high beams do work. paul Randy, I will look at the dimmer switch also. Thanks 😊 paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veraken Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I believe the switch you are looking for is a Delco D1588 which you can get from any auto parts store. https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/headlight-switch/acdelco-headlight-switch-d1588/919149_121215_10866 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/genuine-gm-parts-headlamp-switch-d1588/3965708-P?utm_medium=affiliate&c3nid=IR-10079&utm_source=ir&c3ch=Affiliate&clickid=V1nx9h3HIxyLTPo0TWXZ0S3wUkEVdtwJyxZxWk0&utm_campaign=10079&krypto=B2tc7EZPOmqqBEXY0gGfb8v9UIKpDCTmPnrOCX5tXR0Qi4VPyEopKtVLfFzFDZSdmh25ncEx%2FytCMr0txDMWQ1+OW4BmsUOarEcZwHh3RxlRMRCxG4Wq65R68yphdT2wmlJaDPrNUHIvYo3AqfPITrctftdPpcdkOx%2Fvhjzv23KTSpSObnZOsWY3Mk%2FPbCQ2BmFRKTVZfgGowUbM3t85uxUNqbye+xSBYlDGPEVyByHXudF7k777WVIQ3ph9gCHOqPZBukkASfxwLecDe8NilF5UsbgHExUCzl5a5mRfL3TVKXz%2FuuvTJvM1G6ntSx79LNy3NYMWqY6v1WOn7vPpsg%3D%3D&utm_content=89591&irgwc=1 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHHL6554?impressionRank=2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Busch Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Thanks Vera and Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Hopefully it’s not burnt wire/connection on the VIP smart wheel controller in the front run box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl285 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 More than likely, you have a smart wheel, that allows you to flash your lights with a button on the steering wheel. If you do, it’s likely that your problem is with the controller box. All the headlight current is passed through that controller which has relays on it that allow you to flash your headlights, flash your ICC lights, set your windshield wipers and a few other functions. Since all the headlight current is passed through that controller, the connectors are prone to overheating and failing. Look up VIP SmartWheel for a description of it. Dick L. ‘04 Imperial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Busch Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Dick, I did replace the wheel controller a couple of years ago. I have owned the coach 5 years and when I bought it there were 3 wires that were brown at the controller and seemed to het warm when the light were on. I tested the plug today and only one had a ground and all the time and nothing changed when the lights were switched on. I just put new LED low beams in and got them working again today but not working tonight. I might pick up some regular bulbs and try them tomorrow. paul, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl285 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hot connectors indicate that they are reducing the power available to the headlights. When I bought my coach used in 2007, the dealer had attempted to fix a problem with the headlight circuitry. A few years later, I lost my headlights completely, which prompted me to do a fix. I discovered that the connectors to the controller were toasted and unreliable. The damaged connectors carried all the headlight current. I was able to solve my problem by taking the high currents off the controller by adding a set of relays which fed the headlights from a good 12 volt source. There is a good write-up I the Daniel Stern Lighting site. This had two benefits. First was that the SmasrWheel controller only supplied the relay coil current (milliamperes) vs the 15 or more amps that it originally supplied. Second was that the factory headlight wiring usually does not supply a real battery voltage to the headlamps because of resistive drops. This in itself can cause poor headlight brightness. This fix allowed me to use the poor connectors on the controller and it has worked for me since that fix. Dick L. ‘04 Imperial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Busch Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 I will try to figure this out. It is kind of scary to have iffy headlights. Did you go from the steering wheel controller with the new power line to the headlights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl285 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hot connectors indicate that they are reducing the power available to the headlights. When I bought my coach used in 2007, the dealer had attempted to fix a problem with the headlight circuitry. A few years later, I lost my headlights completely, which prompted me to do a fix. I discovered that the connectors to the controller were toasted and unreliable. The damaged connectors carried all the headlight current. I was able to solve my problem by taking the high currents off the controller by adding a set of relays which fed the headlights from a good 12 volt source. There is a good write-up I the Daniel Stern Lighting site. This had two benefits. First was that the SmasrWheel controller only supplied the relay coil current (milliamperes) vs the 15 or more amps that it originally supplied. Second was that the factory headlight wiring usually does not supply a real battery voltage to the headlamps because of resistive drops. This in itself can cause poor headlight brightness. This fix allowed me to use the poor connectors on the controller and it has worked for me since that fix. Dick L. ‘04 Imperial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl285 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 11 hours ago, Paul Busch said: I will try to figure this out. It is kind of scary to have iffy headlights. Did you go from the steering wheel controller with the new power line to the headlights? Basically, after cleaning up the contacts on the controller (by the way, which was located under the dash behind the radio) I cut the wires to each of the headlights and connected them to the relay system driver coils which I mounted on the firewall. I then supplied a good 12 volt source that I found on the large panel in the front run box cabinet located outside under the drivers side. That source has to be a non-switched point connected to the chassis batteries. I then ran heavy wires from the relays to the headlights. Now all the headlight power and grounds are capable of carrying the current without any voltage drop. Dick L. ‘04 Imperial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 47 minutes ago, rcl285 said: Basically, after cleaning up the contacts on the controller (by the way, which was located under the dash behind the radio) I cut the wires to each of the headlights and connected them to the relay system driver coils which I mounted on the firewall. I then supplied a good 12 volt source that I found on the large panel in the front run box cabinet located outside under the drivers side. That source has to be a non-switched point connected to the chassis batteries. I then ran heavy wires from the relays to the headlights. Now all the headlight power and grounds are capable of carrying the current without any voltage drop. Dick L. ‘04 Imperial 👍 This is the way it should have been originally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Relays are so cheap yet so beneficial, one has to wonder why they're not used when they should be. Spend a buck to save a nickel.....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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