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Turn Signal Mechanism in Steering Column not working


Joe E.
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2008 HR Ambassador 40SKQ, ISC360, RR8R, Not SmartWheel.  First the turn signal lever on steering column wouldn’t stay engaged (up or down). I had to hold the lever up or down to keep the turn signal activated. Now both the left and right turn signals only occasionally indicate activation, based on the green arrow lights on the dash. I “assume” this is a clock spring issue. If I could be pointed in the right direction to find steering wheel/column disassembly and parts information, I will be very appreciative. Regards,

Joe E.

’08 HR Amb

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Joe,

Without a "Smart Wheel" you may not have "clock spring",  could be a regular turn signal mechanism, available at any good auto parts store. Try looking in this sites parts list. Not a bad idea to download the parts list and have it handy.

Bill B 07 Dynasty (was 04 Endeavor)

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I believe it is separate from the clock spring.  I have a parts page for my steering column and the turn signal mechanism is like this

https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-turn-signal-switch-kit-10115445-ts012-p/190367.htm

https://parts.revgroup.com/search?keyword=S01803677

Part number is a TS012 Turn Signal Kit, I'm sure you can find a better price.

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2 hours ago, redstickbill said:

Joe,

Without a "Smart Wheel" you may not have "clock spring",  could be a regular turn signal mechanism, available at any good auto parts store. Try looking in this sites parts list. Not a bad idea to download the parts list and have it handy.

Bill B 07 Dynasty (was 04 Endeavor)

Bill,  I do have the parts list downloaded, but I was looking for clock spring, not knowing any better.  Thanks for the info.

32 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I believe it is separate from the clock spring.  I have a parts page for my steering column and the turn signal mechanism is like this

https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/monaco-rv-turn-signal-switch-kit-10115445-ts012-p/190367.htm

https://parts.revgroup.com/search?keyword=S01803677

Part number is a TS012 Turn Signal Kit, I'm sure you can find a better price.

Jim,  Thank you.  

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Good lord fellas the more i dig into the workings of these coaches the more im convinced they are much like the old checker cabs, in that one vehicle would have parts from different manufactures all compiled. As you know our coaches use a chevy ignition switch, well that turn signil switch was used in the Ford EXP AN EARLIE ESCORTS, the only difference was the “lever” had the horn printed on the end of it, as with mine its the same as the picture and the lever does push in however there is no horn circuit attached to it. I bet if you get the old one out it may have a Ford PN printed on it. Just sayin!!!

I just looked it up 1985 FORD EXP $40.00 

B4FFBAFE-98D8-4660-AD25-2DFED5B170A6.jpeg

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My coach did the exact same thing and i took the column apart and i noticed when i tilted the steering wheel the pin connector would come loose and i would lose contact to the turn signal and sometimes it will connect depending on the way i tilt my steering wheel. What i did was put a small dab of crazy glue on each side of the connector to hold it in place. Never had a issue since.

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44 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Just a thought. Wasn't the the 2008 models built by Navistar?

Gary 205 AMB DST

On March 5, 2009 the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.[9] On April 24, 2009 in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Delaware, an attorney for Monaco said the company had signed an asset purchase agreement with Workhorse International Holding Co., a Navistar International subsidiary. Monaco's CEO was Kay Toolson.[10] On June 23, 2009, Judge Kevin Carey agreed to the company's request to convert its Chapter 11 bankruptcy filing to a Chapter 7 case so it could liquidate its remaining assets which included seven properties in Oregon, Indiana and Florida as well as RV resort properties in California, Nevada, Florida and Michigan were sold to multiple buyers. The order converting the case to Chapter 7 was effective June 30. Navistar International Corp purchased the core assets of Monaco Coach Corporation's factories, inventory, brands and intellectual property in June 2009 for $47 million[11] and the company's new name became Monaco RV LLC. Upon the sale of its remaining assets liquidated under Chapter 7, "the entity ceases to exist," said Andrea Coles-Bjerre, an assistant law professor at the University of Oregon and a former bankruptcy lawyer in New York.[12]

In 2013 as part of Navistar International Corp. restructuring Monaco RV LLC was sold to Allied Specialty Vehicles

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You either have to have a build sheet for "A" coach or, the other telling factor is that Navistar built coaches will have a Navistar engine , after, they ran out of the Cummins inventory Monaco had because  Monaco ordered large quantity's of engines at one time. 

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On 6/15/2021 at 9:59 PM, Joe E. said:

Rick and Greg,

Excellent info!  I will tear into it tomorrow.  Intermittent -> pin connector -> logical.

But if I need a new switch, $38.00 is MUCH better than over $200.00 some want.

Update: I couldn’t get the steering wheel to break loose from the steering shaft, even using a wheel puller.  So I soaked it with PB Blaster and put the nut back on.  Coach is in for servicing now.  Hopefully better luck when I get it back.

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I am with James to. I never pulled my steering wheel. Under the plastic cover near the tilt, you can remove that and expose the wiring. On mine, you have a large connector going to you turn signals and maybe other lights like hazards like the one pictured.

 

steering Connector.jpg

Edited by gregolson65@yahoo.com
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Greg,

Great photo! I didn’t see how to remove the covers with that solid plastic ring at the top.  Assumed the wheel had to come off to get the plastic ring off to get the two cover halves off. Is there a not-so-obvious trick to getting the two cover halves off?

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3 hours ago, Joe E. said:

Greg,

Great photo! I didn’t see how to remove the covers with that solid plastic ring at the top.  Assumed the wheel had to come off to get the plastic ring off to get the two cover halves off. Is there a not-so-obvious trick to getting the two cover halves off?

The covers slide down a little bit and pull out. Start with the top one first but they are easy to get off.

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Obviously they or someone has been in that switch before because the walking tabs that keep them in place or broken off one side even looks like it’s been glued in place so you may have to order and replace the hardshell connector as well. It’s not difficult job it’s just a little time consuming. Most ford dealerships similar to the photo, then count the amount of terminils that are in the hardshell connector then go into the book under how many cavity connectors there are an match up what looks like yours. IF ITS STILL AVAILABLE, then when you get it either remove the wires from the new hardshell an insert yours or cut one at a time and connect it to the corasponding wire on your harness... bada bing bada boom! NOW if you find the connector you need and it discontinued then get the part number an go on line an see if anybody has one for sale

E6D4429A-1C67-4E5A-B8FF-DDE3FC58E954.jpeg

FEA8F646-ED4C-4B49-9F41-3ADCF37001E8.jpeg

Oh an your going to want to save the “lever” to use in your new switch, to remove i belive(way too many beers ago) you push it in an twist to the left then pull out... i think

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Took another look at the steering column covers, and..... Wahla!!  They came off just like ya'all said they would.  Removed and unplugged the module and started the search using ya'lls input on parts.  Ordered and received today from Amazon a Standard Motor Products DS301T Turn Signal Switch.  Looks exactly like the original.  So here's hoping.  Thank you greatly for the excellent technical support.  BTW, the turn signal lever on this unit just pulls straight out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00471QQ9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Alas, the new turn signal switch did not fix the problem. I traced the wiring and didn’t find any breaks or unplugged connectors. I haven’t found where a ground wire may be grounded. Any help with that would be appreciated. I did a check of all the fuses so I will check them again, then test the flasher relays. Any other ideas?

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