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Part of 12v to dash electronics not working.


1nolaguy

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This probably should be under electronics or electrical but I did not see a field that really applied. A section of the dash in our 2005 Safari Cheetah that houses the radio, dash HVAC, and two 12v (cig. lighter style) outlets has stopped working. I have no 12v power at anything in section of the dash. Everything else on the dash area works. I have checked all the fuses is the compartment below the drivers window and in the house 12v system and all are good. I suspected perhaps a break in the ground but do not get a voltage reading even when going directly to the chassis for ground. Is it possible that every thing in this area (panel above center cup holders and draw) is tied to one 12v source/ fused line with an in line fuse? Any suggestions are appreciated.

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29 minutes ago, Old Dog said:

Sounds more like a plug issue where one pin supplies power to the entire area. Do you have elec prints to see what the common denominator is.

Unfortunately I do no have a dash electrical schematic. If anyone has on for same or similar 2005 I would greatly appreciate a pdf or a post here.

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There is an extensive collection of wiring diagrams in the "downloads" section of "Bill D's Monacoers"  for the 2007 Diplomat.  Another person posted that other years and brands are much the same.  I looked at the diagrams and saw references to the Cheetah brand.   The items you mentioned not working are on different circuits, as I read the diagrams.  Maybe something there would be of help.  

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3 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

This probably should be under electronics or electrical but I did not see a field that really applied. A section of the dash in our 2005 Safari Cheetah that houses the radio, dash HVAC, and two 12v (cig. lighter style) outlets has stopped working. I have no 12v power at anything in section of the dash. Everything else on the dash area works. I have checked all the fuses is the compartment below the drivers window and in the house 12v system and all are good. I suspected perhaps a break in the ground but do not get a voltage reading even when going directly to the chassis for ground. Is it possible that every thing in this area (panel above center cup holders and draw) is tied to one 12v source/ fused line with an in line fuse? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I've got the same problem in my 2004 Lapalama 37 pst. Very frustrating! 

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

I have the same problem 2004 Lapalma w22 everything on the center console is dead I have spent over a week on this and did find this loose wire in the battery compartment it is a blue wire have found no blown fuses and all switches are on

Put a 5 amp fuse on it and no change and the fuse has not blown

I just purchased this unit and as far as I can tell everything else works the PO is no help he said he never listened to the radio he owned the unit for 13 years

My next step is to tear the dash apart

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  • 3 months later...

I finally got everything working. I found 4 bad fuses under the dash, 2 bad fuses outside, my run box is on the passenger side not driver side, and a bad relay "bigger square one". Just changed everything bad as I found it. Don't know which solved which problem but the radio problem turned out to be the radio. Found that after pulling the radio. Never found anymore about the blue wire but everything on the dash now works.

Had to pull the driver seat to reach the fuse box and look under the dash. My first cursory examination of the fuses wasn't good enough I had to get in there with a test probe to find the bad fuses my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

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Wow,

Wonder what caused all the fuses to fail, that's more then I've had total in the 15 years I've owned the coach other then a self inflicted issue I caused myself.

FWIW, When I bought my coach in 2008 the radio didn't work, CD did.   Replaced with the same radio but it only lasted ~3 years.  Replaced with a newer version, it failed after ~4 years.  Now on my 3rd one ~7 years, did go back with the same brand because it had the connection for the remote pod in the bedroom which I really like. 

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Don’t know why so many fuses but they didn’t short because none were black and appeared good at a glance  and all had something to do with the dash 

The only thing not working now is the coach battery doesn’t charge when I figure that out maybe that will give a clue 

It’s snowing here now with several inches on the ground so it will be a little while till I get back to troubleshooting 

Btw I think 496 sounds cooler than 8.1

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9 hours ago, Grouch3d said:

Don’t know why so many fuses but they didn’t short because none were black and appeared good at a glance  and all had something to do with the dash 

The only thing not working now is the coach battery doesn’t charge when I figure that out maybe that will give a clue 

It’s snowing here now with several inches on the ground so it will be a little while till I get back to troubleshooting 

Btw I think 496 sounds cooler than 8.1

Coach Battery to Inverter (for both Charging or Inverting...as providing 120 VAC) is a FUNCTION of the Inverter and the Battery bank. I don't know all the electronics on your coach.  You need to look at the prints.  BUT, the Remote and the Inverter and the Battery (House) are all interconnected.  Fuses up front are not, for the most part, involved.

Read your Manual and download your Inverter Manual. Start on page 307 of the LaPalma manual.  If it were ME....then, here's my UNIVERSAL FIX.

Turn OFF the 30 Amp Breaker marked Inverter on the Main Panel.  Turn off the Battery Disconnect Switch.  Unhook the Solar Battery wires or cover the Solar panel with a blanket...if you have one.  Then unhook the Positive of the HOUSE battery.  NOW, disconnect or unbolt the Positive and Negative cables on the inverter.  NOW>>> Let that sit for an hour or so.  THEN, reverse.  Hook back up the inverter cables and keep going until you turn on the 30 Amp breaker.

That clears all the electronic currents or stored gremlins out of the inverter.  Follow the steps in the Manual as how to set up and run.

If that doesn't do it...  Then check.  Is the Inverter, with AC OFF, providing you with internal AC power (try an outlet and check the Microwave).  IF ALL IS WELL...then there MAY be a problem.  BUT, if it doesn't invert....then you have to look at your diagrams or start following the cables from the Inverter.  There will be a FUSE for the inverter.  Typically a 200 Amp one.  May be BIG or may be round.  If that fuse is BLOWN....then you will not be able to INVERT or Charge.

That's the short version.

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