Ignition power at rear run bay

[Rocketman3]

Hello Everyone,

on my 2000 Dynasty, I am looking for an ignition powered wire in my rear run bay. 
 

I am looking at adding a FASS pump and I have added a Victron Dc-Dc 30a charger to help charge my House lithium batteries when I am traveling. I have eliminated the dual battery isolater and physical separated the house and chassis sides.  I want an ignition powered wire to run a relay so the Dc-Dc charger only runs when the motor does. 
 

I know of a bunch in the front fuse bay, but I don’t see any in the rear bay. 
 

where have others obtained ignition power to run the FASS pumps, etc. at the rear?

[timaz996]

Look at my two pictures here. In the middle of the diagram just left of the solenoid you will see line of connections. The top one is ignition. It has a yellow jumper wire the one below it. Cut that jumper wire and splice into it. That's what I used to power the relay for my FASS pump.

Tim

[jfbolkovatz]

 

 

 

 

The only ignition power when the engine is starting/ running in the rear run bay was at the front/ rear selection start switch. I cut in and spliced a lead to our DC-DC charger.

[Cubflyer]

I could never find one (that I was sure could carry 7.5 amps) on my 2003 HR Endeavor.  I took power from an unused fuse position in the front power bay, routed a 16 ga wire thru the (convenient) tube (3" conduit near the frame rail) that runs front to back, and installed a satellite fuse block near the batteries that I powered the FASS pump from.  Works great and provides ignition key on power for other items.

p.s. while I was fishing that wire thru the conduit I pulled and left some "weedeater" plastic cord there too... for another day...

Ken

[Rikadoo]

Good Morning Michael, so I had the same issue, what I did before I installed the FASS was to create a sub panel. It was divided into two sections one was battery power, and the other side was key on power. What I did for the key on power was to mount a Bosch 30 amp power relay (very reliable unit) in the battery box area,  then feed the the battery power to it directly from the batteries with the power out of it to the half of the fuse box that would be using it, for the signal line going to the relay, the ONLY key on power I was able to find was from the rear area was at the air drier in the same area where I mounted the Fass pump, so I tapped into that circuit then ran it and the fass harness over to the battery box where I mounted the fuse box and the power relay. This system was needed cause I found I had a couple needs for usable battery and key on power for a couple other things as well and I needed a place that was clean and easy to tap into. Hard as I tried I couldn't make it look pretty cause its so crowded in there but what I did get was a very usable 50/50 fuse box with the capability of powering all my needs. The reason I didn't wire all my needs just to the drier is I didn't want to take a chance of overloading that circuit and to be constantly have to be replacing fuses cause the FASS uses 10 amps and I just didn't think that one circuit could meet all my needs so I just use it for a signal line. One more thing I did before installing the FASS harness was to open the supplied harness and to incorporate a switch that would be mounted next to the pump, its for when im changing the filters, Its a primer button. After installing the new filters I can flip the switch which turns on the pump so I don't have to run to and from the Ignition switch. 

[Rikadoo]

So there was only one other thing i did after hooking up the FASS system, that was to install a fuel pressure gauge. The gauge comes with a sending unit however the supplied harness was too short, so i cut it then extended it to fit my needs, of course i got all my supplies from Amazon

[bmulvenna@hotmail.com]

Do you have a big boy with an intellitect board. If so, I think pin  3 on the 8 pin connector has power when the Ignition Switch is on.