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dandick66

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I am thinking of changing the shocks on my 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, with tag axle) RR10R chassis.  I noticed the porpoising is getting worse and I’ve noticed some scuffing on the rear tires, which I think is a result of the porpoising and bouncing.  

I’ve been unable to find part numbers for any replacements (Koni, Bilstein Monroe).  So, I emailed REV and they gave me the following Monroe part numbers: Front 01809927 and Rear 01809928.     I looked on Monroe’s website and couldn’t find those numbers, so I emailed them and they gave me these numbers as replacements:  Front 55014 and Rear 55015.  So, I went to Monroe’s website again and looked up those numbers.  Well, 55014 has loop bushings at both the top and bottom.  My shocks have the loop at the bottom and a stud at the top.  Their site say 55015 is an invalid part number!  So, I emailed them again and they said to pull the shock and give them a call.

Now, I’m ready to pull a shock and get a part number off the shock, or at least do some measuring.   I’ve changed my fair share of car shocks and sometimes you have to raise the axle and support it while changing the shock.   My question is, what is the best way to remove the shocks.  I’ve done some reading and it looks like you can “simply” remove the top nut and bottom bolt and remove the shock.  Do I have to worry about the chassis settling, or will the air bags keep it supported?
 

Any tips, tricks and or advice is appreciated.  
 

Dan

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1 hour ago, dandick66 said:

I am thinking of changing the shocks on my 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, with tag axle) RR10R chassis.  I noticed the porpoising is getting worse and I’ve noticed some scuffing on the rear tires, which I think is a result of the porpoising and bouncing.  

I’ve been unable to find part numbers for any replacements (Koni, Bilstein Monroe).  So, I emailed REV and they gave me the following Monroe part numbers: Front 01809927 and Rear 01809928.     I looked on Monroe’s website and couldn’t find those numbers, so I emailed them and they gave me these numbers as replacements:  Front 55014 and Rear 55015.  So, I went to Monroe’s website again and looked up those numbers.  Well, 55014 has loop bushings at both the top and bottom.  My shocks have the loop at the bottom and a stud at the top.  Their site say 55015 is an invalid part number!  So, I emailed them again and they said to pull the shock and give them a call.

Now, I’m ready to pull a shock and get a part number off the shock, or at least do some measuring.   I’ve changed my fair share of car shocks and sometimes you have to raise the axle and support it while changing the shock.   My question is, what is the best way to remove the shocks.  I’ve done some reading and it looks like you can “simply” remove the top nut and bottom bolt and remove the shock.  Do I have to worry about the chassis settling, or will the air bags keep it supported?
 

Any tips, tricks and or advice is appreciated.  
 

Dan

I recently changed the shocks on my 2002 Knight 30PBD. I replaced worn out Konis with Bilsteins from Source Engineering (http://sourcerv.com/) . Those guys are intimately familiar with Monaco suspension and have shocks specifically chosen for your individual coach. I couldn't be happier with the new shocks; they have improved the ride considerably.

I did the job myself and it wasn't too bad. In the case of my coach I used the hydraulic leveler jacks to raise the tires off the ground, then supported the coach with jack stands. I used a bottle jack under the axles to make minor adjustments up and down to line up the holes on the coach with those on the shocks.

The hardest part was removing the nuts from the bolts at the shock mounts. My 1/2" drive air impact wasn't strong enough, but my neighbor's 1/2" cordless impact was.

 

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Never ever get under a vehicle supported by air suspension or hydraulic jacks.   A leak in either system can suddenly drop the coach to within about 4" of the ground.

Use heavy duty jack stands rated for the load.  Then a hydraulic jack can be used under the axle to line up the mounting bolts. 

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5 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Never ever get under a vehicle supported by air suspension or hydraulic jacks.   A leak in either system can suddenly drop the coach to within about 4" of the ground.

Use heavy duty jack stands rated for the load.  Then a hydraulic jack can be used under the axle to line up the mounting bolts. 

Have you seen these?

https://d1y6jrbzotnyjg.cloudfront.net/V3MSA/e72d566383164c5ebc7b06f7a0cd4f31/V1/897e9c57a65a4fafa40177a11cf48392/ShortForm-Generic-480p-16-9-1409173089793-rpcbe5.mp4?Expires=1588346605&Signature=JN9yLnKzXTuSOrSgpgMZGx-vF~7rSrk-JM0aSECsv-fFwWEQhdj8AEklIv56h5g7aiMEb3ArS-edHnpQvLz5wfzM1A16UZQ3Y8V7jM7mvzI5h91ReX8kcDTkfmLDqyH6mvWf7WYQJclbkt2yqTBlscoEZZBJ3S894IZcuCMGeoI_&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJ62XWKZ35EOVO4XA

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13 minutes ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Those look pretty handy, but be sure to check the load rating. 

Many jack stands and ramps are rated per pair, and I've even seen some ramps that publish the total vehicle weight, when the ramps will only safely carry half of that weight. SMH

You'd think there'd be a standardized method for publishing capacities like that.

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I called Source Friday afternoon and talked to Jim.  Good news is he has the shocks, bad news is they are $169 each plus shipping.  There goes my stimulus check!  
 

He also said I should check the tag adjustment and the ride height adjustment.  Now, I have some more reading to do.  I’ve read enough about both of them to get confused.

Dan

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I own a 42' Monaco Camelot & uses the shocks that have the eye on bottom & stud on top -- I`ve changed my shocks & four other Monaco Coach`s shocks --  Your coach will need  four Bilstein  # 24-186605 for the front & six  Bilstein # 24- 186612  for the rear -- You should find them for about $90.00 each --  The shocks are not that hard to change -- No need to jack up anything --  The shocks hold nothing up -- They`re just dampers -- If you elect to have someone do it for you, $25.00 per shock is a fair price -- William Willard

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On 4/24/2020 at 5:08 AM, dl_racing427 said:

Never ever get under a vehicle supported by air suspension or hydraulic jacks.   A leak in either system can suddenly drop the coach to within about 4" of the ground.

Use heavy duty jack stands rated for the load.  Then a hydraulic jack can be used under the axle to line up the mounting bolts. 

David sorry to say not so on the 2000 dyn the skirt is best i remember about 9 or 10 inches of clearance and the coach bottom  2 x were 11 or 12 inches of clearance as we have had this discussion many times on the old Monacoers web site in fact Bill B wanted to put life insurance on me because i was always working on my coach without jacks. It’s on a couple places that I’m aware of the gen exhaust and the steps when out that can mash me . 

 

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2 hours ago, walt2137 said:

David sorry to say not so on the 2000 dyn the skirt is best i remember about 9 or 10 inches of clearance and the coach bottom  2 x were 11 or 12 inches of clearance as we have had this discussion many times on the old Monacoers web site in fact Bill B wanted to put life insurance on me because i was always working on my coach without jacks. It’s on a couple places that I’m aware of the gen exhaust and the steps when out that can mash me . 

 

So you can dump all three air tanks to 0psi, and dump your bags and your coach is still 9+ inches off the ground sitting on the bump stops?  I don't think my Dynasty sits much higher than that normally. 

Wow, just how high is it at ride height?  Must look like a lifted 4x4 on the road. 😉

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With all air out sitting on bump stops and the ride height is correct I went out and checked at the steps out no air 7 1/2 in aired up in travel mode 11 inches, David your skirts could be different than mine but I don’t think that that it’s that much difference in the belly height about 6 ft in front of the rear duals. Not trying to be difficult but it’s just not the big deal that is posted time and again.

check your step reading I would be interested in knowing your measurements I know you have a late 90s Dyn but don’t remember the year.

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It's been a long time, but I remember that the width of my hand would just about reach between the skirt and the pavement when the air was dumped.  I'm pretty sure my skull wouldn't fit in its current shape. LOL

Probably a little higher now, since I upsized tires.

Mine's a 1993, BTW.   Maybe they raised them when they started adding slides, like the trailer manufacturers did.

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On 4/26/2020 at 8:40 PM, mmccwill said:

I own a 42' Monaco Camelot & uses the shocks that have the eye on bottom & stud on top -- I`ve changed my shocks & four other Monaco Coach`s shocks --  Your coach will need  four Bilstein  # 24-186605 for the front & six  Bilstein # 24- 186612  for the rear -- You should find them for about $90.00 each --  The shocks are not that hard to change -- No need to jack up anything --  The shocks hold nothing up -- They`re just dampers -- If you elect to have someone do it for you, $25.00 per shock is a fair price -- William Willard

Ok.  I ordered the shocks today.  I was able to get them for a little less than $90 each.  I realize Source Engineering did some research and had the shocks custom tuned, but I just couldn’t see paying nearly double the price.  I hope to get the shocks changed out in the next couple of weeks. I’ll post again once I’m done.

Dan

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2 hours ago, dandick66 said:

Ok.  I ordered the shocks today.  I was able to get them for a little less than $90 each.  I realize Source Engineering did some research and had the shocks custom tuned, but I just couldn’t see paying nearly double the price.  I hope to get the shocks changed out in the next couple of weeks. I’ll post again once I’m done.

Dan

I can't say I blame you, especially when it's 8 or 10 shocks we're talking about. 😨

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the shocks changed out last week.  What a difference!  The old Monroe’s were definitely shot.  They could be compressed  with very little effort.  The Bilstein’s were much stiffer.  The ride is definitely improved.  Very little porpoising now.  

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That's good to hear.  Did you swap them yourself?  How did that go?

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35 minutes ago, Steven P said:

That's good to hear.  Did you swap them yourself?  How did that go?

I did it with a friend.  I think you could do it by yourself, but it would be a real pain for 1 person.  
The rearmost shocks were the easiest.  You need to have a pipe wrench or chain type Vise Grips to hold the top of the old shocks when removing them.  It’s best to have a long handled ratchet for the top nuts so you can get some swinging room.  After they get loose, you can use a battery or air ratchet.  We used a battery impact on the lower bolt.  Note: Home Depot has the Rigid 1/2 inch drive, 18 volt impact on sale for $149.  It’s a beast! Lifetime warranty on both tool and battery.

The “forwardmost” rear shocks were the worst.  The bottom bolts were not a problem, but the top was working in the blind.


The front shocks weren’t too bad.  We opened the generator slide and were able to crawl in that space and sit upright.  

You definitely need a battery or air ratchet to tighten the new shocks.  All together it probably took about 5-6 hours.

Dan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been following this post and looking to change the rear shocks on my 08 dynasty 42';  looking at Bilstein 24-187145 Heavy duty;  supposedly they will work on the 08 dynasty.  Anyone familiar with them.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty diamond IV

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It looks like the 24-187145 has the “eye” mount at top and bottom.  The 24-186612 has the stud at the top and the eye at the bottom.  I’d say the function of the shocks is the same, just the mounts are different.  
I am very happy with my Bilstein’s.  Just double check your mount type before ordering.

Dan

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Go with the source engineering Bilsteens.  They are the only shock made specifically for the roadmaster RR8 and RR10 chassis. I believe there is a version for.each plus front.and rear.  I put them on my 2001 Windsor and they completely transformed the  ride.  My Monroe's were still.good.but the coach , especially the from end, ride so hard it would rattle.everything and made it.just unpleasant to drive. It was night and day after I put the SE Bilsteens on.  Cannot recommend them enough.   Give them call. They are worth every penny. 

Dave G

2001 Windsor

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2 hours ago, grainytv1 said:

Go with the source engineering Bilsteens.  They are the only shock made specifically for the roadmaster RR8 and RR10 chassis. I believe there is a version for.each plus front.and rear.  I put them on my 2001 Windsor and they completely transformed the  ride.  My Monroe's were still.good.but the coach , especially the from end, ride so hard it would rattle.everything and made it.just unpleasant to drive. It was night and day after I put the SE Bilsteens on.  Cannot recommend them enough.   Give them call. They are worth every penny. 

Dave G

2001 Windsor

X2

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/26/2020 at 8:40 PM, mmccwill said:

I own a 42' Monaco Camelot & uses the shocks that have the eye on bottom & stud on top -- I`ve changed my shocks & four other Monaco Coach`s shocks --  Your coach will need  four Bilstein  # 24-186605 for the front & six  Bilstein # 24- 186612  for the rear -- You should find them for about $90.00 each --  The shocks are not that hard to change -- No need to jack up anything --  The shocks hold nothing up -- They`re just dampers -- If you elect to have someone do it for you, $25.00 per shock is a fair price -- William Willard

Hi, I have an '05 Beaver Patriot 40'w/tag and need to replace my shocks.  I've read comments of great service from Source Engineering for shocks so I called and spoke with Jim who told me that they build custom-tuned Bilstein's for my coach, price $169 ea. plus shipping.  Reading your note where you describe replacing your shocks with Bilstein #24-186605 & #24-186612 I saw them on Amazon for $96 & $94 ea.  It sounds like your were standard Bilstein's rather than custom tuned, is it your opinion that the standard shocks are going to do the job just as well?  Thanks for your thoughts on this.  Neil L.

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