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Air Pressure Alarm Issues 2004 Endeavor


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The alarm for low air pressure on the coach goes when the gauge is low and after it buiild up the alarm goes off but as soon as you put t in gear n both D and R but when you put it in nuetrel it goes off any ideas

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Assuming yours is a 2 wire switch like ours, it should cycle between closed and open as you pull and push the plunger, with normal air pressure present. Does the light go out with one terminal removed?

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Then just pull the plug and see if it makes a difference, shorten it with a paper clip or something to confirm. If that works, the switch is not opening as it should. Again, assuming a simple 2 wire switch.

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Well it sounds like a test light will be your friend, the switch i probably a dual action switch, meaning no air pressure operation and yes air pressure operation. So 1 wire should go to busser or “module” the other two should either be power or ground that the buzzer or module require. I have only replaced mine when when my buzzer acted up. My coach has two warning senereos 

1. park brake on but i put the coach in gear it gives me the sound. Or 

2. coach is in neurtral with park brake still released. 
 So im sure both those senereos require seperate input, which if the two wires at the 3 wire switch one may be key on power when put in drive where as the other may be just key on power. Again test light is your friend. 
Side note: i have not tried to see if there is an alarm with enine off an coach in neutral, in case a kid or animal realased the brake while parked.

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I would say that you need to find a pin out for you respective switch to test it or find it in your wiring diagram. 3 wire switch may be using reference voltage that you don't want to short even though I don't know why it would be for this application when simple on/off could work.

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Are you certain it is the same switch as the original P/N? I would expect it needs a SPDT type switch where one side opens and the other closes with pressure and therefore your light goes Off with it disconnected but the other side now does not get the signal it is looking for. Wrong switch with a wrong pinout would be my first guess. With some testing you could probably swap the pins unless the switch isn't really a switch but a sender meant for a gauge.

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t has to be the park brake alarm and i have checked they fully release and have replaced the switch on the button that you pull.need a solution to stop the buzzer for now as we are goiing out of towm and that will give you a headache.Will repair when i get back
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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Air Pressure Alarm Issues 2004 Endeavor

A few ideas and maybe some logic.

 First, the “buzzer” may not be a separate component.  It may be built into the main gauge cluster.  There were three, maybe more, gauge cluster vendors; ACTI, Faria (sp?) and Medallion vendors.  There are no prints in the files for your rig (04 Diplomat/Endeavor).  Do not know if you have prints in the back of your manual.  The dash prints will have a name and a reference on the vendor.  If you strike out there, then pull the cover off the dash and start looking at the gauge package and the harnesses.  Typically, there will be a multipin or maybe a few smaller multipin harnesses going into the main control box.  Pulled your manual.  You need to find the main control box or module for the system.  MOST LIKELY, there is one, maybe the center gage, or maybe a stand alone box that supplies power or the output signals to the rest.  You have two “dashboard” panels (idiot lights) and five gage clusters.  Find a part number and or a manufacturer.  Sometimes you can goggle the part number and use dash ot gauge and you will get a hit to the vendor.  You can then call ACTI or Medallion….or if it were someone else and get a manual or the wiring for the gauges.  Folks HAVE silenced the alarm, maybe going inside…or located it. THIS HAS TO BE TEMPORARY AS WELL AS HAVING THE ABILITY TO RESTORE THE ALARM.  

There is a similar thread going about the treadle or the air pressure switches on the brake pedal operator.  NASAN has a variety of switches.  And YES….there are some that are NOT SPST, but SPDT or a “high/low” style.  These are the THREE wire style.  It is a dual pressure….typically the LOW is on when the pressure is below 65/70….some are even adjustable.  Then above that, there is a circuit for the HIGH.

The question is, did you get the EXACT PN or the equivalent when you replaced the switch.  The reason you get the Alarm when in D or R is that the switch is not sending the correct signal that the Parking Brake is OFF.  That is why the Parking Brake Light is ON….and the alarm going off to say….DO NOT DRIVE….the Parking Brake is ON.  Obviously, I assume, the parking brake is OFF otherwise you would have an issue.

There are TWO circuits controlling the alarm. The Pressure Transducer(s) send out an alarm signal when you are below say 65 PSI.  You have a dual (per the manual) needle gauge…..or that is my interpretation.  When that MH has 70+ PSI air….all is well and the alarm goes off.

The other one is the Parking Brake.  THAT is the problem.  Either the switch or the wiring is defective….a loose or open connection…..or the WRONG switch or there is a problem in the Gauge Cluster Controller….in that you are getting or not getting a good signal.  NOW….yes, as others posted, the Parking Brake switch is TYPICALLY a SPST or ON/OFF switch.  That is wired in to some bin or storage bay door switches on some models as the doors swing UP and you can damage if you extend the slides.  Again, TYPICALLY, Monaco used a GROUND signal.  So when the Parking Brake was released, a GROUND circuit was made on ONE terminal.  With the switch closed, the circuit went through the other two (usually) door switches.  This was a series strung circuit…so all three switches had to be closed….and the Ground signal allowed a relay to close,,,,and let you operate the slides,

ODDS ARE….the PB switch is NOT giving a ground signal OR the .gauge cluster is not responding or operating correctly.  WHY YOU HAVE a 3 wire switch, I do NOT know and only the prints, or another knowledgeable member, can tell you.  Monaco DID do strange things….

Wish I could provide more specific help….but until you get a GOOD (probably GROUND) signal to PB input on the Gauge Cluster, the light and alarm will stay on.
 

 

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Well came back home to the alarm going anytime i was in gear.Bought the correct switch for the emergency brake and no difference as it had an after market that was recommended on here.I need to silence that alarm any ideas would be appreciated

 

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1 hour ago, bonfield said:

Well came back home to the alarm going anytime i was in gear.Bought the correct switch for the emergency brake and no difference as it had an after market that was recommended on here.I need to silence that alarm any ideas would be appreciated

 

For WHATEVER reason, the Parking Brake Switch is NOT functional.  They are a GROUNDING switch....or a least MOST are.  When you set the brake, the switch closes and provides a GROUND circuit.  

SO....now come the real troubleshooting.  

FIRST.  You need to go through your prints or download the 2004 Diplomat.  They are the same as your MH. OK....here is an 06...and the PB is a GROUND signal.

either use the terminals and your VOM or use a needle and an alligator clip.  ONE side of the switch wire is going to GROUND.  Isolate that.  With the SWITCH OFF....the other side or wire should be OPEN or no continuity to Ground.  Then....set the BRAKE SWITCH.  The other side of the switch should be GROUND Now. 

You have GOT to chase this wire.  From here it gets TRICKY.  The 06 print is a bit hard to read, but if you trace the wire, it goes into a Warning LIGHT #2 plug.  IF you don't have the same dash system....that might not work.  BUT....if the harnesses were the same, then look on the RIGHT SIDE of the print...towards the Top. IF you turn ON the ignition.....the alarm should start to go off....and the light is on....maybe it has to be running.  Pin 5 on LIGHT #2 Plug is the PARKING BRAKE.  If you put a GROUND TO THAT wire (use a needle, that SHOULD silence the alarm and the light.  If you have a GROUND from the switch....and....then DOES Pin 5 on Light Plug 2 SHOW A GROUND signal.  If it does NOT....then there is a wire connector.  If it does....then Pull out the harness (plug) and reseat it.  Per the prints....a GROUND signal going into Pin 5 should turn off the light and the alarm.

As to the ALARM.  You are going to have to chase it down.  My Medallion system has a BUZZER output.  SOME of the dash clusters have an INTERNAL buzzer.  It is a HUNT and PECK routine.  You use your fingers or a screwdriver to your ear or whatever.  Some have had to go into the main cluster.  Others have find the buzzer and then removed the lead....or pulled the ground.

That is it.  You HAVE to have a GROUND signal from the switch....ALL THE WAY to the dash and the INPUT to the dash (lights) or the Main cluster.  Fari (sp) or Medallion or ACTI probably made them.  Look for a NAME on the back of the main instrument cluster or wherever all the "Harnesses" go.  Then get the PN of that.  Call the vendor. Medallion emailed me the complete manual (written for MONACO....no less....with colors and pictures).  They also sent me the schematic for the inputs......and there is a BUZZER OUT wire.  

Good Luck.....but for whatever reason, you are NOT getting a ground.  HOPEFULLY, the ground that connects to your PB switch is messed up.  If SO....then run a new ground or such.    

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It appears that your number translates to Nason switch in the pic. You say that the park light on dash works as it should, that implies that black and blue wires do what they should. You need to confirm that you get continuity between black and red with the park button pushed down and normal pressure in tanks. If you don't, the switch is bad. If you do, there will be tracing to find where the red wire goes to necessary.

Screenshot_20221021_133656_Chrome.jpg

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Well lots of diagnosing head scratching and noisey riides but a few second repair.I hope this helps somone else.I found that the tank for the jack fluid that i was checking was full and i noticed a small schematic on the tank that showed the float level and for those that dont know it has wires coming out of a plastic nut.The centre was not at the right oriientatiion so i adjusted it and bobs your uncle.Noise gone.

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