15/20 Amp hookup

[nvrtoofast]

While my rig is parked, I wanted to hook up to keep the batteries charged. I don't have a dedicated 50 amp or 30 amp plug. I was hoping to get 15 or 20 amps. I purchased an adapter to go from the Coach's 50 amp plug to a standard 15/20 amp wall plug. I plugged it up and nothing registered. it seemed like the inverter was working but my batteries died  (the inverter was likely running something in the rig).

 

Any tips on how to get the system to recognize the power and keep things moving?

[Dr4Film]

Well, the Inverter was running because you had NO shore power.

The first thing I would look at is the 50-15/20 amp adapter that you purchased. Those aren't always well made products.

That is the only NEW device that you have entered into the problem assuming that everything worked properly on normal shore power previously.

[Jdw12345]

If it’s plugged into a GFI protected outlet I’d check to make sure it’s not tripped.

[jacwjames]

I have plugged mine into a 15/20 amp circuit in the past without a problem.  It will/has sporadically tripped the GFIC circuit but most of the time I can reset and all is good. 

Built a garage last year with a 50 amp outlet and had been plugged into that but I've been trying to reduce overall power consumption decided to plug into a 15/20 amp timer which is on a GFCI circuit.  Actually shut the inverter off and have the salesman switch off to reduce parasitic draw.  After 1 week I still had 96% battery power both house and chassis.   When I first plugged in the GFCI tripped twice but then stayed in.   Not sure why but I will have to keep an eye on it. 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

If it’s plugged into a GFI protected outlet I’d check to make sure it’s not tripped.

Per MAGNUM…and my own “learning through experiences”, you will probably NEVER, EVER get a GFCI protected outlet to work feeding your MH.  These are the ways to make it work.

totally charge the batteries using your generator.  If the are almost dead or need charging, then you will have issues overloading the 115 A circuit.  Takes maybe 3 1/2 hours.  The will be close to charged….but not fully. Will read FLOAT for at least a day or so….then be OK.

YOU MUST HAVE a real 15 ot 20 amp outlet.  It cannot be GFCI protected.  Odds are, if you plug something into the outlet you used, you are gonna have to chase down the GFCI upstream or on the outlet and reset it.  Do not use this outlet.  Most garages and outdoor outlets are GFCI Protected.

Once you find a conventional outlet, you must see if it is 15 ot 20.  A 20 amp will have a small horizontal notch .  OK, THEN….

On the Magnum inverter remote, there is a SHORE OR LINE BUTTON.  Push it and set the current to either 15 or 20 depending on what amperage you have.

Then in setup, I would turn the charge rate down to 60 or 70%….otherwise, you risk going into an overload and getting a fault.

Next, when ou plug in, then make sure t use the 20/30 button n the EMS panel and toggle to 20.

Magnum says SOMETIMES you have to set the SHORE to 10 amp to keep from popping the circuit breaker.

thats it

[Paul J A]

Have you considered a Xantrex  Digital Echo Charger, and simply hook it up to the batterys, and use a qualified circuit and correctly sized extension cord for the lenght and circuit load used?

 

 

 

[nvrtoofast]

Unsure if it will fit my need,  but will look into it.

12 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Per MAGNUM…and my own “learning through experiences”, you will probably NEVER, EVER get a GFCI protected outlet to work feeding your MH.  These are the ways to make it work.

totally charge the batteries using your generator.  If the are almost dead or need charging, then you will have issues overloading the 115 A circuit.  Takes maybe 3 1/2 hours.  The will be close to charged….but not fully. Will read FLOAT for at least a day or so….then be OK.

YOU MUST HAVE a real 15 ot 20 amp outlet.  It cannot be GFCI protected.  Odds are, if you plug something into the outlet you used, you are gonna have to chase down the GFCI upstream or on the outlet and reset it.  Do not use this outlet.  Most garages and outdoor outlets are GFCI Protected.

Once you find a conventional outlet, you must see if it is 15 ot 20.  A 20 amp will have a small horizontal notch .  OK, THEN….

On the Magnum inverter remote, there is a SHORE OR LINE BUTTON.  Push it and set the current to either 15 or 20 depending on what amperage you have.

Then in setup, I would turn the charge rate down to 60 or 70%….otherwise, you risk going into an overload and getting a fault.

Next, when ou plug in, then make sure t use the 20/30 button n the EMS panel and toggle to 20.

Magnum says SOMETIMES you have to set the SHORE to 10 amp to keep from popping the circuit breaker.

thats it

Well laid out. Tom you clearly have some good experience on this. I'll work on this through the week. Hopefully I'll get it sorted easily.

[nvrtoofast]

CLOSED.  Somewhat. My EMS readout was fried. in process of replacing with a new one to finish troubleshooting.
Dropped a photo. You'll have to look closely but one of the soldered points is fried. 

[Dr4Film]

Sorry for my ignorance,  but how does a failed EMS display cause no power to your coach?

You did state in your first post that your batteries had died due to having the Inverter powering something that was running in the coach.

Something is not making any sense.

[nvrtoofast]

You're correct. Not ignorant. It plays no part in the function really but it makes it much harder to diagnose when I can't see the amps, etc. Just a next step.

[Dr4Film]

If you don't have one already, then I would highly suggest that you install a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C prior to your transfer switch with a display that will tell you specifically the quality of your incoming power.

The Intellitec EMS is only useful when you have the generator running or are on good shore power less than 50 amps. The control board is doing the work, the display is only there to inform you of what the control board is doing.

[Tom Cherry]

16 hours ago, nvrtoofast said:

CLOSED.  Somewhat. My EMS readout was fried. in process of replacing with a new one to finish troubleshooting.
Dropped a photo. You'll have to look closely but one of the soldered points is fried. 

NOPE…..this is NOT YOUR ISSUE(s)…..read on…

From conversations with M&M RV Electronics, who is the contract Tech Support for Intellitec, the remote does NOT impact the function of  the EMS.  It is strictly a dumb “device” that displays what the main PCB sends it.  It can only perform one simple task….telling the EMS PCB if you are on 20 or 30 A.  I can’t recall if the remote has to be plugged in for the EMS to work or not….

Unless I am totally of base, and you can call M&M aim Ohio City, OH….this does not close our or resolve your issues.  If you feel safe and comfortable doing a live trouble shooting test, here is what to do.  

BTW, the EMS only sheds loads like the AC and water heater and washer.  Pull off the main 50 amp panel.  That will expose the incoming power and the circuit breakers.  Your main panel will have a dedicated NON SHEDDING 30 A breaker for the Inverter.  The Aems can go crazy and shed the loads, but you STILL HAVE POWER FOR THE INVERTER….and others like the Block Heater….  The defective remote is not the charging issue!

BUT FIRST….does your MH still have the recalled IOTA 50-R Automatic Transfer Switch?  If it does, that needs to be replaced immediately as it is a fire and safety hazard.  There are many topics here about it. Do a search or PM me and I’ll send you a link.  OK….no IOTA…

with the cover off, then start the Genny.  Let it run for a few minutes.  Now do the following….

There are TWO main incoming power leads in the panel.  You have a 120 VAC Genny.  If you measure the voltage with a VOM between each incoming 50Ambreaker to the neutral (where the white leads are) buss, you should get around 120 VAC.  Do each one.  Now do the same to the ground (bare wire leads).  If all is well, then go to the 30Amp Inverter Breaker.  There is a screw terminal and a #10 wire attached.  If you measure the terminal to both Ground and Neutral, you MUST have 120 VAC to fun or power the Inverter.  This is NOT an EMS controlled or switched breaker.  If you have 120 VAC there…..then your issues are with the inverter or such.  

The next steps are to verify the setup of the Inverter and then if the batteries are not charging…..trouble shoot that.  Do this and report back.  

8 hours ago, nvrtoofast said:

You're correct. Not ignorant. It plays no part in the function really but it makes it much harder to diagnose when I can't see the amps, etc. Just a next step.

YES…but what you should be looking at, as far as charging goes and the Inverter, is the Magnum remote.  See my post to verify you have good power from the Genny to the main panel….as well as troubleshooting and also checking for a defective or recalled ATS.