Dash generator start switch

[drewat2]

On my 05 Dip with Onan 8000 gen, the dash generator switch has an issue. Will not start when pushed. Staring the generator from local switch, the dash switch then indicates run and switch stop function works. All connections, fuses etc. look to be good. Where to look next?

[Ivan K]

This has come up few times earlier and if your other interior switch (I suppose you have more than one) doesn't work either, the typical suspect is a large 10 pin connector on top passenger side of your generator. It may look clean but it has always been my culprit. If your other internal switches work, then the dash switch could likely be your problem.

[Joe E.]

On 4/26/2023 at 12:04 PM, Ivan K said:

This has come up few times earlier and if your other interior switch (I suppose you have more than one) doesn't work either, the typical suspect is a large 10 pin connector on top passenger side of your generator. It may look clean but it has always been my culprit. If your other internal switches work, then the dash switch could likely be your problem.

A search for generator dash switch brought up this post which fixed my exact issue.  Another indication I had was only 30 amp available on the EMS, but 50 amp on shore power.  Thank you Monacoers.org, again.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Joe E. said:

A search for generator dash switch brought up this post which fixed my exact issue.  Another indication I had was only 30 amp available on the EMS, but 50 amp on shore power.  Thank you Monacoers.org, again.

Joe,

I don’t quite understand your comment about the EMS.  You need to review the manual, if I read your comment correctly.  The dash generator start and stop switch does just that….ON & OFF.  It is not connected to the Intellitec EMS system.  The EMS works this way.  When you are on 50 amp shore power, there is actually a 240 VAC 50A breaker in the pedestal.  Your MH does not use nor is wired for 240 VAC. The EMS measures the voltage between Line 1 and Line 2.  If it reads 240 VAC, it “assumes” that you have 50 amps, PER Leg or Line and there is NO amps displayed and you see a series of lights that are the pecking order if you exceed the rated amp capacity.  Basically….it does nothing….but let’s power through….and the main circuit breakers protect the MH from overload.

BUT, in your case, you have a 35 amp, 2 line, 110 VAC generator.  That only provides you with 70% of the power….of a 50A service.  The larger MH might have a 10 or 12 KW Genny…..which is a true 240 VAC unit.  There is a fallacy or an issue that needs to be pointed out.  There are 3 conductors bring in power….the 4th is ground.  These are #6 stranded copper…capable of maybe 55 A or so.  If you have 25 amps on one leg and 15 amps on the other of the “out of phase” 50 amp service, the neutral only is carrying the difference..or 10 A.  In a perfect world you would be balanced or equal and the Neutral is at Zero Amps.

BUT….you Genny is 120….but it has two lines.  OPPS!  So, if you load up each line or leg to 35 A (the rating of the circuit breaker)….then the Neutral carry’s the SUM of both lines or 70 Amps.  Not good.  You can burn up a cable or an ATS….it HAS happened,  The EMS will display as follows…

50 Amps when on a real 50 Amp service.

Gen Set when there is a GENNY Run signal.  The EMS “has no idea” that you don’t have a full 50 A 240 VAC genny.

30 A means that there is NO GEN SET ON and there is NO 240 VAC, so it assumes you have 30 amps of power.  Bear in mind….this is 30 amps on ONE LINE or Leg only.  So, you have the potential for a full 100 Amps of power (50 .x 2 legs) when on 50 Amp.  But when on a single feed (there are NO 30 Amp 240 VAC feeds) or 30 amps….that’s it or 30% of 50 Amp service….

There is a button to push when you are only on 20.

There is a write up in the files as to how to configure your Magnum if you need a primer….

Unless you have a much newer remote for the EMS and you do NOT get the Gen Set light and see “amperage” with the Genny, you need to reboot and reset the EMS.

 

[drewat2]

Problem solved. A badly corroded connector between the dash switch and the 10pin connector. Cut it out and and re-wired a new connector

[Joe E.]

Tom,

Thinking about what you said, during my generator switch issue, my inverter was on. So I now 'assume' the 30 amp light on the EMS was indicating what was available from my inverter and batteries.  So the two observations, no generator start with interior switches and 30 amps available on EMS, were separate issues. They just seemed to go together at the time.

Thanks for the knowledgeable response.

[Tom Cherry]

31 minutes ago, Joe E. said:

Tom,

Thinking about what you said, during my generator switch issue, my inverter was on. So I now 'assume' the 30 amp light on the EMS was indicating what was available from my inverter and batteries.  So the two observations, no generator start with interior switches and 30 amps available on EMS, were separate issues. They just seemed to go together at the time.

Thanks for the knowledgeable response.

OK....Phase 2 of Monaco and MH Electronics.  

The Inverter and Batteries are NOT "monitored" in the way you posted from the EMS.  ALL electrical power going to the main panel go through the ATS.  Whether Genny or 50 Amp or lower....

NOW....to mess with your mind....the INTERIOR outlets and Microwave take a bit of a long route.  When you have power on the main panel....then there is a 30 Amp Breaker that goes to the Magnum.  That 30 amps does two things.

First...your Magnum (memory and a LOT of reading and helping folks).  You have a 2000 Watt Inverter.  That means that it will Invert or produce 2000 watts of 120 VAC power.  That is about equivalent to a SINGLE 15 A outlet in your home.  BUT, the Magnum is also capable of PASSING THROUGH 3600 Watts.  

BINGO, the 120 VAC goes to the Magnum from a 30 Amp Breaker.  That 30 amps is then "routed" through the Magnum.  There is an internal ATS.  Actually TWO small Relays.  You MUST have a good (or a battery that can be recharged) battery attached.  THEN, the Magnum is happy.  It takes the 30 Amps and passes it back to the outlets inside.  There are TWO circuits.  One through the GFCI (typically in the hall vanity under or on the front of the sink base cabinet).  The OTHER circuit goes directly to the Microwave.  IT does NOT go through the GFCI.  If you disconnected the batteries so that there was NO 12 VDC power (the big cables on the back) from the Magnum...you would loose the interior outlets and the Microwave.  That is HOW it work.

NOW...if you have NO AC power (Shore or Genny), then the Magnum starts to invert or give you power to the Outlest and the Microwave.  BUT, it only gives you about a SINGLE 15 Amp service....so you do NOT have as much "Available Juice" inside.

YES....these are TWO different issues.  BUT, AGAIN...if your Genny was running and you did NOT have the Gen Set light on....you either have an issue in the EMS Board (hidden away...but easy to get to) or it is "in a funk" and you need to do a COLD RESTART or REBOOT....just like your computer....if you left it unplugged for many days...

Noodle on it.  This is very important and is explained in your manual.  Read the two chapters, at the end on House and Chassis Electrical.  That is your assignment before we go to Electrical Phase 3....LOL

[lake49068]

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop.  REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help.  Where o where was the corroded connector? 

[drewat2]

1 hour ago, lake49068 said:

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop.  REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help.  Where o where was the corroded connector? 

The bad connector was underneath just behind the generator before running up through the dash

1 hour ago, lake49068 said:

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop.  REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help.  Where o where was the corroded connector? 

 

[lake49068]

Scooted under the coach and in the open area on the curb side between the steps and Onan was a connector...the red wire was hanging loose, only a blind man would miss it.  Cleaned up the corrosion, made a jumper and all is well.  Pretty simple if you know what you're looking for.  Thanks for the help!