LOST POWER - Electric Receptacles - 2005 HR Endeavor

[Gonzalo]

My 2005 Holiday rambler Receptacles are not woeking I have a GFI on the wall of the batroom and is trigreting and now did not release  also My refrigirator is not getting power the majority of outlets has no pawer, i did check all fuses inside and out ,and my converter is working,no blow fusess also I did notice my Generator is not starting from inside switch but it crancks from the out side generator switch ,it happens before and I did reset the GFI on the batroom and all did not get energized but today I did move the RV and disconected from home power come back and conect the home power but my GFI power outlet is not releasing  any comments or Ideas  thanks 

[K9 Exec]

Hi Gonzalo, my first thought would be to remove the gfci from the circuit, then if the other circuits are energized- you have a bad gfci receptacle. It is 18+ yrs old now,  I have replaced a number of them doing that. 
Best of luck, plz let us know what you find out. 

Nick

[Gonzalo]

good idea but i check for voltage in the GFI and get noting  so i wonder were the power to GFI come first 

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Gonzalo said:

My 2005 Holiday rambler Receptacles are not woeking I have a GFI on the wall of the batroom and is trigreting and now did not release  also My refrigirator is not getting power the majority of outlets has no pawer, i did check all fuses inside and out ,and my converter is working,no blow fusess also I did notice my Generator is not starting from inside switch but it crancks from the out side generator switch ,it happens before and I did reset the GFI on the batroom and all did not get energized but today I did move the RV and disconected from home power come back and conect the home power but my GFI power outlet is not releasing  any comments or Ideas  thanks 

From the top.  There are two circuits from your inverter.  One goes to the microwave.  One to the GFCI.  The GFCI then powers all the outlets in the interior as well as the refrigerator.  Post a picture of your inverter or tell us if it a Magnum or a Xantrex (Freedom?).  Bases on the age of your motor home, you need to replace the GFCI.  You MUST use a brand that has been tested for the Inverter.  My preference is Eaton Wiring Devices. The other two are Leviton or Hubbell.  Purchase a new 20 Amp (NOT 15 Amp) one.  If you feel comfortable replacing (obviously with the power OFF), the GFCI (is is just like a residential receptacle), then I will give you more information.  Otherwise find a friend that can do wiring in homes and can replace a simple receptacle.  DO NOT purchase a Tamper Proof.  Do not buy the Lowes Utilitec brand. Home Depot or a local hardware store or an electrical supply store will have one of the three brands….or order from Amazon.

I need one more bit or information.  You need to NOT be plugged into any SHORE power.  You need to go to the generator and turn off the circuit breaker.  It is easy to spot. You need to turn off the House Battery switch.  Now, you or your friend, needs to remove the cover plate .  Loosen the two screws and pull it out.  Look at where the power cables or wires go. There will be a power cable connected to the top of the GFCI.  There will be another power cable on the bottom.  Sometimes there are TWO cables on the bottom.  Please take s picture or tell us if there is ONE or TWO attached at the bottom.

Lets solve the GFCI issue first.  This is 120 Volt AC and your Generator cranks or starts from 12 Volts DC.  The GFCI should not be interfering with the Generator starting circuit.

Take the pictures and get us the information.  Then we’ll tell you how to install the GFCI.  BTW, the older the GFCI gets, the more unreliable and the more problems you have, especially in a Motor Home.  It is acting like an old grumpy man and refuses to work….

Curiosity?  Am I correct that you have a 120 VAC refrigerator and NOT a gas one? Let us know….then the “fix”…

[Gonzalo]

I did turn my reffer to LP gas and is working but still no power an any outlets I did check the converter no blow up fuses or reley

i will get picture in a minute 

[Tom Cherry]

2 minutes ago, Gonzalo said:

I did turn my reffer to LP gas and is working but still no power an any outlets I did check the converter no blow up fuses or reley

Read my response.  I need to know how many wires or cables are on the bottom….this is important….

[Gonzalo]

this is some of the placess were i did look out 

[TomV48]

23 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Read my response.  I need to know how many wires or cables are on the bottom….this is important….

In the for what it's worth department,  in our 2005 Ambassador the inverter is Magnum and has two 20 amp breakers.  One Powers the Micro and the other leg powers the GFCI outlets only and  does not include our bedroom or outlets like the engine heater etc.  When I have a GFCI only  problem, I can tell it's the GFCI only when the outlets in the bedroom still work ( on gen or shore power of course)

[Gonzalo]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

From the top.  There are two circuits from your inverter.  One goes to the microwave.  One to the GFCI.  The GFCI then powers all the outlets in the interior as well as the refrigerator.  Post a picture of your inverter or tell us if it a Magnum or a Xantrex (Freedom?).  Bases on the age of your motor home, you need to replace the GFCI.  You MUST use a brand that has been tested for the Inverter.  My preference is Eaton Wiring Devices. The other two are Leviton or Hubbell.  Purchase a new 20 Amp (NOT 15 Amp) one.  If you feel comfortable replacing (obviously with the power OFF), the GFCI (is is just like a residential receptacle), then I will give you more information.  Otherwise find a friend that can do wiring in homes and can replace a simple receptacle.  DO NOT purchase a Tamper Proof.  Do not buy the Lowes Utilitec brand. Home Depot or a local hardware store or an electrical supply store will have one of the three brands….or order from Amazon.

I need one more bit or information.  You need to NOT be plugged into any SHORE power.  You need to go to the generator and turn off the circuit breaker.  It is easy to spot. You need to turn off the House Battery switch.  Now, you or your friend, needs to remove the cover plate .  Loosen the two screws and pull it out.  Look at where the power cables or wires go. There will be a power cable connected to the top of the GFCI.  There will be another power cable on the bottom.  Sometimes there are TWO cables on the bottom.  Please take s picture or tell us if there is ONE or TWO attached at the bottom.

Lets solve the GFCI issue first.  This is 120 Volt AC and your Generator cranks or starts from 12 Volts DC.  The GFCI should not be interfering with the Generator starting circuit.

Take the pictures and get us the information.  Then we’ll tell you how to install the GFCI.  BTW, the older the GFCI gets, the more unreliable and the more problems you have, especially in a Motor Home.  It is acting like an old grumpy man and refuses to work….

Curiosity?  Am I correct that you have a 120 VAC refrigerator and NOT a gas one? Let us know….then the “fix”…

 

[Gonzalo]

12 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

From the top.  There are two circuits from your inverter.  One goes to the microwave.  One to the GFCI.  The GFCI then powers all the outlets in the interior as well as the refrigerator.  Post a picture of your inverter or tell us if it a Magnum or a Xantrex (Freedom?).  Bases on the age of your motor home, you need to replace the GFCI.  You MUST use a brand that has been tested for the Inverter.  My preference is Eaton Wiring Devices. The other two are Leviton or Hubbell.  Purchase a new 20 Amp (NOT 15 Amp) one.  If you feel comfortable replacing (obviously with the power OFF), the GFCI (is is just like a residential receptacle), then I will give you more information.  Otherwise find a friend that can do wiring in homes and can replace a simple receptacle.  DO NOT purchase a Tamper Proof.  Do not buy the Lowes Utilitec brand. Home Depot or a local hardware store or an electrical supply store will have one of the three brands….or order from Amazon.

I need one more bit or information.  You need to NOT be plugged into any SHORE power.  You need to go to the generator and turn off the circuit breaker.  It is easy to spot. You need to turn off the House Battery switch.  Now, you or your friend, needs to remove the cover plate .  Loosen the two screws and pull it out.  Look at where the power cables or wires go. There will be a power cable connected to the top of the GFCI.  There will be another power cable on the bottom.  Sometimes there are TWO cables on the bottom.  Please take s picture or tell us if there is ONE or TWO attached at the bottom.

Lets solve the GFCI issue first.  This is 120 Volt AC and your Generator cranks or starts from 12 Volts DC.  The GFCI should not be interfering with the Generator starting circuit.

Take the pictures and get us the information.  Then we’ll tell you how to install the GFCI.  BTW, the older the GFCI gets, the more unreliable and the more problems you have, especially in a Motor Home.  It is acting like an old grumpy man and refuses to work….

Curiosity?  Am I correct that you have a 120 VAC refrigerator and NOT a gas one? Let us know….then the “fix”…

I just order a new GFI Amazon and my refer works both gas and electric 

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, Gonzalo said:

I just order a new GFI Amazon and my refer works both gas and electric 

Still need to know, now or later, but before you replace the GFCI, how many wires (cables…that is called Romex and has the insulated black & white and bare ground inside the outer covering) that are attached to the GFCI.

Without going into the technical details, your gas refrigerator may have “aging heaters”.  That is NORMAL and not a hazard….  But if they have some minute leakage, then many, even new GFCI, will trip.  Your home refrigerator and microwave do NOT have a GFCI.  The electrical codes specifically say NOT to put them in a circuit.

If you post a picture or tell me how many wires….TOP and BOTTOM are on the GFCI, i can help you avoid future issues.  We have had folks buy all new parts for a Norcold….because of not understanding this…

SO.  Post the picture or how many pieces of Romex are on the GFCI and how many are on the top as the bottom…good luck.

By the way….you have a Levitan GFCI brand….but they get old and are unreliable….

[Gonzalo]

thanks tom I am here on the holyday week of the 4th of July trying to resolve this issue i did change the GFCI for a new one I did including pictures and the way I rewire was the same I pull out now I still not have power at any outlet i check fuses and inverter, and nothing help please. 

[Gonzalo]

I did Install A new power outlet GFCI still not having any power at any outlet  I check fuses all the way around but I losing power some were i am checking my inverter, but light is green, and the two 30 amps fusses looks good Any ideas guys thanks in advance. 

[Tom Cherry]

OK….simple steps.  

FIRST.  Do you have power to the Microwave.  The clock should be on and working.   

SECOND.  Look at the GFCI….carefully as the screws have voltage….turn it so you can see the front.  There are TWO lights.  Is ONE or BOTH or NONE ON?.?  Turn off the MAIN 50 Amp Breaker.  There should be NO lights on the GFCI. 

THIRD.  Go to the Inverter.  There are three “buttons” at the bottom below the white label.  These are called PIN (Push IN to RESET) Circuit Breakers.  Note or look to see how far they are sticking out.  The two black ones may be the problem.  PUSH IN, firmly with your finger, each one.  Now look at them.  Are the 2 black ones IN or seated lower?

FOURTH.  Turn back on the main breaker.  Make sure the 30 Amp Inverter is on.  

Is the Microwave clock ON/blinkimg?

Go to the GFCI.  CAREFULLY…..hold the edge and do NOT touch the screws.  There is a button labeled RESET.  Push it in….did the lights change?

Now test or try the outlets?  If you do NOT have power, then you will need to a friend with a Digital Volt-Ohm-Meter (VOM) and make sure he knows how to use it to test for Voltage.

ONE MORE TEST?  Unplug from Shore.  Generator should NOT be running.  Look at the Magnum Inverter display.  It should say INVERTING.  The top Left Green light (PWR) and the bottom left green light (INV) should be ON.  The Microwave should be blinking and you should have POWER.  Make sure the GFCi is ON….push (CAREFULLY) the RESET button again.

THEN post the results or what is happening….

[Dr4Film]

Did you check to see if you had power on the wires where you are installing the new GFCI?

If not then you wasted your time and money with the new GFCI.

[jacwjames]

How is power distributed in the coach.  Do you have one main service panel or do you have a subpanel for the inverted circuits?

The GFCI is still protected by a breaker in the main or subpanel, did you check to make sure it has power coming from it?   

[Tom Cherry]

I am trying to address that with my post.  Based on the age and never having replaced the GFCI, the effort, based on all the comments and “fixing power issues” over the years was NOT an exercise in futility nor a waste of money.  

After we isolate where the power loss is and get it fixed, then there is a high, very high probability that he can rewire, properly, the GFCI and isolate his refrigerator icemaker outlet on a NON GFCI circuit which will avoid future “false trips”.

Lets see how the tests go and work on troubleshooting and isolating.  I do NOT know if he has a VOM or the skills to start with voltage trouble shooting and the simple steps he is doing will isolate and help resolve it.

Thanks,

2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

How is power distributed in the coach.  Do you have one main service panel or do you have a subpanel for the inverted circuits?

The GFCI is still protected by a breaker in the main or subpanel, did you check to make sure it has power coming from it?   

If you look at the prints and also the pictures, he has a conventional system where the inverter is a single IN and Dual OUT.  I do not believe he has a subpanel based on the model and year and pictures.  

[1nolaguy]

First rule of owning an RV, things will most likely break or stop working on a holiday weekend or a Sunday. Just saying.....

[Gonzalo]

56 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

How is power distributed in the coach.  Do you have one main service panel or do you have a subpanel for the inverted circuits?

The GFCI is still protected by a breaker in the main or subpanel, did you check to make sure it has power coming from it?   

I am going to open the Sun panel no power at all going to GFCI

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Did you check to see if you had power on the wires where you are installing the new GFCI?

If not then you wasted your time and money with the new GFCI.

You are Wright I just installed a new HFCI same results not power at the outlets I lost power somewhere my microwave is working the inverter is working I miss power somewhere all the lights works a/c works no fuses blow out can’t figure out thanks again 

[Gonzalo]

I run must of the text you mentioned still not power going in. I will open the main sub panel to check the breakers thanks a lot is frustrating 

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

After we isolate where the power loss is and get it fixed, then there is a high, very high probability that he can rewire, properly, the GFCI and isolate his refrigerator icemaker outlet on a NON GFCI circuit which will avoid future “false trips”.

 

Yeah, I won't be doing THAT!

Last year my icemaker water supply line split. The water was spraying straight at the icemaker outlet!

[Tom Cherry]

MODERATOR's EDIT. 

@Gonzalo

Please do NOT START a NEW TOPIC with the same subject or the same problem.  This is against the SITE RULES.  I have Merged the TWO Topics together.  You have been commenting on both and the information is confusing, so it is very difficult to assist you.

It is suggested that you contact me @ 919-349-2171. 

Until we get a good handle on what is happening and what you have done or tested, it is almost impossible to respond.

Thanks,

Tom Cherry

 

18 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, I won't be doing THAT!

Last year my icemaker water supply line split. The water was spraying straight at the icemaker outlet!

Ben, not to be abrupt.  BUT, if you don't use or intend to use the icemaker....then no need to split the wiring.  BUT, if you DO intend to use the ICEMAKER, then the circuit (one of the bottom ones) should be split.... 

 

52 minutes ago, Gonzalo said:

I am going to open the Sun panel no power at all going to GFCI

You are Wright I just installed a new HFCI same results not power at the outlets I lost power somewhere my microwave is working the inverter is working I miss power somewhere all the lights works a/c works no fuses blow out can’t figure out thanks again 

Gonzalo....you MUST tell us WHAT ALL IS GOING ON....not pieces....This changes the WHO situation....  Please call me.  919-349-2171,  I can NOT type exactly out each step and then you say..."Did most" and then keep posting while I am typing the next steps....

THANKS....

48 minutes ago, Gonzalo said:

I run must of the text you mentioned still not power going in. I will open the main sub panel to check the breakers thanks a lot is frustrating 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2023 by Tom Cherry
Two DIFFERENT TOPICS. Same ISSUE. Now combined.

[Dr4Film]

I think this thread could use some AI.

LOL😆

[Tom Cherry]

4 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I think this thread could use some AI.

LOL😆

You and ME BOTH.  The NEW TOPIC (GFCI) was in the wrong place.  Another Moderator MOVED IT.  Then we discovered that there were TWO Topics and the OP had reported different or perhaps conflicting information.

I have requested that the OP contact me and take this off line as there is too much going on and all the tests have or may not have been completed.  TOTALLY confusing....I don't thing that Chat.GPT could handle this....It is blowing my poor mind to keep a scorecard....

Thanks...

[Tom Cherry]

Folks....This topic is a bit confusing.  I have asked Gonzalo to call me.  

Gonzalo,

IF YOU READ THIS.  STOP, for your own safety and call me.  I THINK I know what the problem is, but I need to talk to you.

ALL,

He has posted pictures.  I THINK I have sorted it out....but AGAIN....I COULD BE WRONG.  The first pictures of the GFCI APPEAR to be the Eaton Wiring Devices...which I recommended.  The second set of pictures show a different GFCI, the OEM Leviton or whatever was in the MH.

Gonzalo may NOT have been aware that the manufacturers have DIFFERENT DESIGNS.  If he has installed, as best I can make out and lookup online, the Eaton....exactly as the Leviton, then the LINE and LOAD are reversed....thus, he has NO POWER to the receptacles.  The Leviton has the LOAD (like in the OLD DAYS), on the BOTTOM.  The LINE is on the top.  Notice where the GROUND plug is.  

Eaton is following a "different" path.  MANY of the local or city or wherever inspectors are NOW (their prerogative....I do NOT think CODE....but OPTION), that the GROUND PIN go on the top.  This prevents a deadly situation.....I JUST FIXED or PREVENTED ONE.  The logic is that with the GROUND pin on the TOP....it is safer.  We had a "OMG" lost power at our church.  There was a Surge Suppressor (plug in) plugged in.  They THOUGHT that the Surge Suppressor was BAD.  SO, they unscrewed it.  There was a METAL (SS) receptacle cover on the outlet.  They DID NOT PULL IT OFF...so it was "dangling". It was quasi attached...as in there was a little paint.  BUT, then they kept plugging in the refrigerator cord and messing with it.....then the metal cover dropped down.  DEAD SHORT ON THE BLACK AND WHITE.  It arced and cut a 1/8" notch in the plate and the lugs.  The FPE breaker, which I had RECOMMENDED and HAD A QUOTE to replace....the ENTIRE PANEL...as the Breakers were FAULTY....(Google it) did NOT TRIP.  IT scared the daylights out of the 18 YO and the lady telling him what and exactly what to do.  FORTUNATELY....NO INJURIES.

SO... IF the Outlet had had the GROUND PIN UP....not an issue.

I THINK that EATON has REVERSED the Line and Load.  SO, if Gonzalo installed it like it is in the picture (the terminals are different....) then that explains it...

That's all I know.  Lets HOLD OFF until we get more info...

Thanks....