Trevor and Laura Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Hi again, I know that this question has been asked many times before, but something doesn't seem quite right with our Bella's charging. She was sitting outside a truck repair shop for 5 days waiting for a stg drag link and we stopped by to see her. Checked battery voltages, chassis 12.25, house 12.6, Aladdin showed the single 2006 solar panel at 9v and 5 or 6 amps, so not charging. I knew that the alternator charged the chassis batts, but because of our remote and powerless storage we needed to know that the generator would as well.. went to start it and it behaved as if the battery was really down. Decided to try the big motor and it cranked normally and fired right up.. I realise there is a long cable run, but I don't think that this can be normal? The PO had just replaced the chassis batts, thinking their old age related to the gennie not always wanting to spin over fast enough. It started fine with the main engine running, but then my old vom died, thought 4xAAs, but not this time.. As I sit inside cooling off my portable batt charger is on a 15a ext'n connected to the chassis. The RRB is open and the famous BB relay is V hot?? not expecting that after sitting for 2 hrs.. There was a full 12.5v, by an older analog meter, going to the thin green wire at the front!! Both battery switches were on, turning off the House bank killed that 12v to the BB. Likely a logical reason?? Will start the gennie soon to see if the chassis' see a charging voltage.. The BB has 9/18 on it and I have the old one that has been refurbed.. What is suggested? Many thanks Trevor 2006 42ft Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Just a quick short response. Starting the generator probably woke up the batteries via the onboard charger. Just a few minutes could be enough to let your engine start. In any case, batteries should be turned off completely when left for more than just a couple of days. I used to leave a picture and instructions on the seat of my rv while in storage so they could turn them on and move the RV when needed. I highly suggest a notepad and voltmeter once you get things in hand again. Taking measurements under various conditions so you have confidence when something is not right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 Thanks Myron, but why did the 8.9l Cummins start and not the little 1.6l? Gennie? And why sitting outside the house with a 115v charger on the chassis batts was that BB seeing 12v on the coil? Something strange? Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 I would do a Google search of “how does the Monaco bigboy work” as it seatches better than the search feature on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 59 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said: Thanks Myron, but why did the 8.9l Cummins start and not the little 1.6l? Gennie? And why sitting outside the house with a 115v charger on the chassis batts was that BB seeing 12v on the coil? Something strange? Trevor It is possible the starter for the Gen pulls from the house and not the chassis batteries. Not saying that is the case, just a possibility. 85% of the issues with our 2005 seem to be electrical in nature. Last year I invested in a portable charger (https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-GT4000S-Fast-Charging-Portable-SuperSafe/dp/B0BF94WPW3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2RYYVMSKNWVDC&keywords=gooloo+jump+starter+4000&qid=1689719176&sprefix=gooloo%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0) and I find it a great investment because of where I store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Okay, just started the gennie, first time for us since initial inspection, small puff of smoke and quickly settled down, still not a brisk cranking speed, but do not know what is normal.. House batts are charging fine but not the chassis.. turn house batt switch ON and BB gets 12v and both banks are charging, so the BB is working, but seeing full 12v. So maybe all charge on shorepower when house would be on?? and traveling when also on for the 115v fridge etc. Manual says shorepower and batts switched on for storage, so something is wrong Trevor, 2006 42ft Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
det944 Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 I have a similar Genny start issue with my 2006 Dynasty on occasion. It's ok if I start the Genny shortly after removing shore power or shutting down the big diesel but requires battery boost to start if left w/o a charging source over night. I suspect either chassis battery switch, big boy, or cable run to genset has higher than acceptable resistance. I have not had time to t/s . I have heard of folks adding a battery up front close to the genset to solve this issue. My genset cranks from the chassis battery- verified by switching chassis battery off. Also verified shore power, engine driven alternator and genset are charging house and chassis batteries @ 13.8 - 14.2 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 15 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said: Thanks Myron, but why did the 8.9l Cummins start and not the little 1.6l? Gennie? And why sitting outside the house with a 115v charger on the chassis batts was that BB seeing 12v on the coil? Something strange? Trevor Without looking over your shoulder my gut feeling was/is that you started the generator first??? Then you started the big engine?? Sorting out perhaps a couple of issues the notepad and voltage readings as suggested should make it clear how your system is currently working. Not necessarily how it is designed or has been modified along the way. Finding which battery starts the generator will allow you to address the generator slow start issue, which as mentioned has been a problem for some in the past. Long runs of wires, poor connections, and weak batteries have caused that complaint. Adding a nearby battery as mentioned has resolved that for some folks., I would have a voltmeter on the positive post at the generator while cranking and then on the negative post as well. You can lose just as much on the ground cable as the positive cable. Back to knowing your charging setup. With the notebook in mind, connecting to shoreline and seeing what is getting charged, (after waiting at least two minutes), get voltage measurements on each bank of batteries. Disconnect shoreline and run the generator and take measurements again. Start the engine and take the measurements with the generator off, and then with it on while the engine is running. Often there is a sense line that isolates the generator/charger power from the alternator power by isolating the battery banks. This prevents conflict with two charging sources. When on shoreline, no sense line is used so you can get some interesting complaints with the engine running while on shoreline I hope this is not too confusing. These systems are complex and it took me a very long time to figure out how mine works. I did not have schematics in the early days and the owners manuals did not get into enough details. These forums and getting the schematics taught me a lot. And have fasinated me ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Hi Myron, You would be very welcome to stop by and look over my shoulder you know... To clarify, the genset starts from the chassis batts, when we tried to start it first it did not turn over fast enough to start, only tried for maybe 5secs, did not want to kill the batteries. They were at 12.2v after sitting for a few days. Tried the big Cummins and no hesitation there.. THEN we started gennie, still did not seem to crank fast enough to me, agree on the connections and voltage drops, must replace my old RS VOM and read up again on the procedure; would like to avoid another battery if possible.. Sitting on the street outside the house, open up that box in the engine house, duct tape and sheet metal screws? dusty.. nothing running, but battery switches on, there is the Big Boy, marked 9/18 and it's Very Hot, with full battery voltage going to the small wire on the front terminal!! Turned off House B switch to lose that.. Started the Genset and House Bs see charging volts, but not the Chassis Bs, only volts on 1 side of that BB Turn on the House B switch, BB closes with 12v again and Chassis Bs now see charging volts.. So the BB is functioning, but not operating automatically or correctly and I will need to fix it.. that box in the back is not easy to access and I am out of my depth with that stuff; it would seem safer to replace whatever is not working with ?? a BIRD or a Blue Sea ACR?? Oh, and the generator slide is now creeping out, have to run it out and back?? Cheers, Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 1 hour ago, Trevor and Laura said: Hi Myron, You would be very welcome to stop by and look over my shoulder you know... To clarify, the genset starts from the chassis batts, when we tried to start it first it did not turn over fast enough to start, only tried for maybe 5secs, did not want to kill the batteries. They were at 12.2v after sitting for a few days. Tried the big Cummins and no hesitation there.. THEN we started gennie, still did not seem to crank fast enough to me, agree on the connections and voltage drops, must replace my old RS VOM and read up again on the procedure; would like to avoid another battery if possible.. Sitting on the street outside the house, open up that box in the engine house, duct tape and sheet metal screws? dusty.. nothing running, but battery switches on, there is the Big Boy, marked 9/18 and it's Very Hot, with full battery voltage going to the small wire on the front terminal!! Turned off House B switch to lose that.. Started the Genset and House Bs see charging volts, but not the Chassis Bs, only volts on 1 side of that BB Turn on the House B switch, BB closes with 12v again and Chassis Bs now see charging volts.. So the BB is functioning, but not operating automatically or correctly and I will need to fix it.. that box in the back is not easy to access and I am out of my depth with that stuff; it would seem safer to replace whatever is not working with ?? a BIRD or a Blue Sea ACR?? Oh, and the generator slide is now creeping out, have to run it out and back?? Cheers, Trevor 12.2 is essentially dead and you were lucky to get the big engine to start. With 12.2 and extra losses in the cables going to the generator the voltage could have been down a lot. The Big Boy, making some assumptions without pictures, will run extremely hot to the touch if plugged into shoreline or you have enough solar for it to engage. It takes about 2.5 amps on that thing. If that solenoid has a white and purple wire, I suspect the purple wire is the control wire. The BIRD control also throughputs the emergency start control voltage for that wire when you push that emergency start button. You should see voltage on the large terminals on that solenoid at all times if things are functioning properly. If you did not while testing, that path needs to be traced. The large cables should go basically straight to the batteries. (of course they can go through switches, but they fail as well). I have a feeling your BIRD circuitry is working as designed. Post a couple of pictures of the battery compartment and of the front run bay so folks will be able to really accurately give suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Agreed that 12.2v is not good, they are on a charger now and should be back full at 12.7v. . Aladdin only shows 7 to 9volts for our single original 100w panel, so assuming nothing good there.. should maybe find the solar charger and disconnect it until we can install the new panels?? Myron, nothing running or plugged in, if the house B switch is turned on then 12v goes to that big boy relay in the back box and it gets hot, as you said, 2.5amps, that will run the house batts down. Good is that if plugged into shore camping, then the chassis batts should combine and aways be on "boost" as well. I thought that the BIRD stuff should control this and also reduce the volts holding the relay closed?? Remember, the Genny did not automatically charge the chassis Bs, had to switch the house batts on to close the BB relay. I am "not good" with colours, but Laura says that both small wires to the big relay are green... did take some pics before closing it up again, 1/2 hidden behind the body.. will take more of the batteries and front compartment.. will the IRD/BIRD be in the front? Thankyou for your interest Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 On 7/18/2023 at 4:54 PM, Trevor and Laura said: Hi again, I know that this question has been asked many times before, but something doesn't seem quite right with our Bella's charging. She was sitting outside a truck repair shop for 5 days waiting for a stg drag link and we stopped by to see her. Checked battery voltages, chassis 12.25, house 12.6, Aladdin showed the single 2006 solar panel at 9v and 5 or 6 amps, so not charging. I knew that the alternator charged the chassis batts, but because of our remote and powerless storage we needed to know that the generator would as well.. went to start it and it behaved as if the battery was really down. Decided to try the big motor and it cranked normally and fired right up.. I realise there is a long cable run, but I don't think that this can be normal? The PO had just replaced the chassis batts, thinking their old age related to the gennie not always wanting to spin over fast enough. It started fine with the main engine running, but then my old vom died, thought 4xAAs, but not this time.. As I sit inside cooling off my portable batt charger is on a 15a ext'n connected to the chassis. The RRB is open and the famous BB relay is V hot?? not expecting that after sitting for 2 hrs.. There was a full 12.5v, by an older analog meter, going to the thin green wire at the front!! Both battery switches were on, turning off the House bank killed that 12v to the BB. Likely a logical reason?? Will start the gennie soon to see if the chassis' see a charging voltage.. The BB has 9/18 on it and I have the old one that has been refurbed.. What is suggested? Many thanks Trevor 2006 42ft Dynasty Somebody has been messing where they shouldn't abeen a messin'. The way it works. You have the INFAMOUS Intellitec Board in the RRB (Rear Run Bay). That board has TWO functions....at least that I was told by a detailed explanation for our resident expert. IT gets a signal from the Front Battery Cut Off (on the passenger console to the left as you start to step in). That switch sends a momentary contact signal (one for ON and the other way for OFF). The PCB then either latches ON or OFF the Salesman Solenoids. I get CONFUSED...so you may have TWO of them. Doesn't matter....they are controlled by that board.... OK....the other function is to control the Big Boy circuit. The problem is, according to your measurements, some one has JIMMIED the system. The way the Board is SUPPOSED to work...and this member fixes them, on occasion is this. When the engine starts or you plug in to Power or run the Genny, the board does all sorts of magic and checks the voltage of the House and Chassis. IF one or the OTHER or BOTH needs to be charged, then it will go CLUNK. That is a PURE and FULL VOLTAGE 12 VDC signal. THEN....if all is well and we're talking a few seconds or maybe a timed delay, then the voltage to the coil of the Big Boy is reduced. NOW....for the THEORISTS....the voltage is NOT reduced....like from a Rheostat. BUT the Band Width or the ON portion of a very fast pulse, is reduced. Best I can figure out...it is about 60% or maybe 7 VDC. We have had folks use a VOM and measure and the range may be, for the DYNASTY, 6 - 8 VDC....which is what the meter will "average" and read. You would need an oscilliscope to measure the pulse frequency (now many times per second it turns on)...FWIW....TRIVIA. I once designed an assembly line for Automotive Fuel Injectors. I learned a LOT. The average fuel injector, many years ago, on your car was 50 Hertz. OK....in a SECOND, that fuel injector would open and close or cycle 50 TIMES or 0.020 SECONDS....faster than the blink of an eye....so your VOM is reading a PULSED voltage. THERE WILL BE A QUIZ. OK...the first shot of 12 VDC closes the Big Boy. Then, the voltage is pulsed from that time on. NOW, on some of the newer boards there are exotic circuits and changes...but the theory is this. The Big Boy will start to burn UP (the coil) if there is a continuous 12 VDC. THAT is why, if I read your post, yours is HOT. BUT, at the reduced or pulsed voltage, it will get WARM and HUM/Buzz and be content. NOW....for the commoners like me, the Camelot's have an Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 Module. It operates at a reduced Voltage (shorter ON pulse). Measured mine... a smidge over 3 VDC. Before the real expert at Intellitec dropped dead due to a coronary, he said that 3 - maybe 4.5 VDC from the Bird Diesel2 was FINE. NOW, mine doesn't get as HOT nor as noisy. Bottom LINE....you control board was bypassed (my theory). 12 VDC is FINE.....WRONG. It is burned up. How much did you hand hurt. You should BARELY or maybe just touch a Dynasty (and UP) Big Boy and it will cause you to jerk you hand away...but NOT almost hot... I don't UNDERSTAND, nor CAN I speculate as to what someone did thinking they were fixing it. IF the wire(s) from the Big Boy are going so some exotic looking board and you are getting 12 VDC...that board is bad. It is getting to be a MORE common failure....the boards are older. I do NOT think that they are still in stock or being manufactured and some folks can, for a small king's ransom, SUPPOSEDLY, fix them. We have TWO here that have or can... SO....the OPTIONS.... FIRST....is there any voltage going IN and OUT of the Big Boy. ONLY ONE WAY to test. SHORE (preferably 50 A or GENNY) ON. Take OFF the cable from ONE stud. Measure the Voltage from the cable you left ON. If that is the HOUSE side....it should be 12 VDC. If the Engine is OFF and you measure to the OTHER terminal (off), then you should get 12 VDC. Vice Versa....the engine ON and NOT on SHORE/Genny....reverse the side. ONE side is HOUSE and the OTHER is CHASSIS. These are connected when the Big Boy is energized. It is also energized when you press and hold the Battery Boost Button. Some folks have been told to wedge a golf tee under the switch. That will cost you over $200 as it will burn out the Big Boy. Check for such a device and if it is there....REMOVE IT. Your Manual tells you to ONLY hold it on for less than 30 seconds or so. I THINK it starts to kill the Big Boy after a minute....but the specs may not tell you the exact time... The 200 Amp is NOT rated at continuous 12 VDC....THAT IS A FACT... The BEST way is with a Clamp ON Ammeter (as part of your VOM). You can read the current. The Voltage reading MAY be false as the contacts will pit up. IF you get Voltage on BOTH SIDES...and they are the SAME....then odds are...it is working. With the Inverter on and shore on...then you should get whatever or close to what the Magnum remote is reading....as it is driving the charging. Since the Chassis is not being charged from the alternator (engine off), if you measured the cable from the Chassis, it would be around 12.6 or so Volts. Hooked up and the inverter on and ASSUMING (the Big BOY IS ON), then you should measure 13 or higher VDC on the HOUSE side of the solenoid...and same on the other cable (hooked up). Then the test is the voltage drop. If the voltage across the terminals is MORE than 0.05 to 0.10 VDC, the contacts are pitted. MIGHT BE CLEANED...but NO BIG BOY is gonna work for long at 12 VDC to it...it has to be PULSED and lower. EDIT....just now. If your board is bad and you loose the Salesman's Switch. You can easily add one by copying my Camelot circuit....or as Frank says....Put a Momentary contact, SPDT Center OFF switch back in the RRB or just put 12 VDC to the proper contacts and close or LATCH the Relay....or JUMPER it with the NAPA 781115 781144 Jumper like we lower food chain folks use... The remote switch is handy if you need to reboot your Intellitec MPX house system. END of edit. BTW....for those interested. ONCE you abandon or do NOT have a fully function Big Boy control board, the DPST battery switches can be replaced with the Blue Seas 6005. The extra two small terminals is what allows the Bi-Directional charging....NOW....the choices. Cheapest....IF you do very little DRY camping....just bypass the monster. Move one cable to the OTHER STUD...that should immediately solve (assuming the Inverter is working and/or the Alternator is working) the problems. You have just "remotely" JUMPERED the Positives. So, drive on. THE DOWN SIDE....when you are Dry Camping or NOT on SHORE or the Engine is NOT running.....you are draining your Chassis. OPPS.....NOT GOOD...carry one of the Quick Start modules ($125 or so from Amazon RATED for DIESELS....they were discussed here)...or Have a Jumper Cable to your TOAD. Next UP. Purchase a Blue Seas 6005 SPST Battery Switch. Mount it where the Big Boy "USED TO BE" and then leave it ON. If you DRY CAMP....then turn it OFF and you will NOT discharge the CHASSIS. Primitive....but effective. Folks have been, recently, bypassing the Big Boys after they figure this out or find that their NEW TO THEM MH doesn't work as "designed and sold" If your Big Boy is that hot and has a full 12 VDC signal, It is probably TOAST...and that is the END of that.... The board repair, unless you can get it repaired by one of the guys here, will be, based on quoted costs, very expensive. OK....here are some MORE choices....and explanations. I ran this by another member and he concurs and added a few thoughts. Install the Blue Seas ML-ACR. There are TWO ways. PLAIN or Manual Control with NO REMOTE or up front Switch OR FULLY AUTO WITH REMOTE Capabilities... PLANE JANE. Put it IN. Then, when you need Battery Boost, you turn it on. Then Turn it off. This is done where you MOUNT the ML-ACR. Simple and easy.... IT WORKS...There is (memory) Auto....IT works JUST like the Big Boy and the OEM board. OFF....NADA....then ON....that is like holding DOWN your BOOST. You CAN run this way...but Auto would be better....and you can TURN IT OFF when Dry camping. AUTO OR REMOTE. You will have to run 3 wires from the RRB to the Front where the Boost Switch is located. I will take the place of the BOOST and allow you to control the ML-ACR from up there. You decide HOW MUCH work it will be to run the 3 wires....and I'll leave that to you. FINALLY.... IF you happen to have a GOOD (or used with clean contacts) Big Boy, you can install a Bird Diesel2. That will allow you to have the SAME setup as the Camelots. It works great. Mine is still ticking. You will need to hook up a simple Bosch Relay. Maybe less than $150. The Big Boy will bolt back into place and all you do is control it from the module... Amazon has these for $120 and another site, reputation unknown, has them for $71...NEW. I may order a spare. BOTTOM LINE...this works fine and is tested. I can supply the print from mine. You do NOT use the GenSet terminal. Monaco stopped that a LONG time ago. You WILL have to remove the boost switch and find 12 VDC to the center terminal. The Camelot works with 12 VDC and the Dynasty has a ground. NOT a big deal. The relay is simple and easy to install.... if you can take out the Big Boy, you can do this. That is the final option. OK....that was a LOT....but this keeps coming up.... Good Luck... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Thankyou Tom, lots to digest there for sure.. thought something had to be wrong with the control side.. the B B still works, goes clunk and both banks charge, but is driven by 12v from the house battery switch, not auto sensing.. surprising that the BB coil is still good.. the "spare" has been apart and cleaned, the PO was meticulous, I doubt he was the one that messed with things... AllSo your final option sounds good, will this new bird D2 module reduce the volts to the BB to protect the coil? Not sure if it will fit in that rear box.. did see the video by AZ expert, same thing? Not sure about the boost switch, may need more help there.. no problem going to the back for boost to start the main engine, but do need to have the gennie start reliably. All should be better "when" we have some reliable solar.. it is supposed to charge both banks, with the switches off.. important for our storage situation.. All will get fixed, we are having thoughts of selling the house... thanks again Trevor and Laura Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoaks5 Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 15 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: Install the Blue Seas ML-ACR. There are TWO ways. PLAIN or Manual Control with NO REMOTE or up front Switch OR FULLY AUTO WITH REMOTE Capabilities... PLANE JANE. Put it IN. Then, when you need Battery Boost, you turn it on. Then Turn it off. This is done where you MOUNT the ML-ACR. Simple and easy.... IT WORKS...There is (memory) Auto....IT works JUST like the Big Boy and the OEM board. OFF....NADA....then ON....that is like holding DOWN your BOOST. You CAN run this way...but Auto would be better....and you can TURN IT OFF when Dry camping. AUTO OR REMOTE. You will have to run 3 wires from the RRB to the Front where the Boost Switch is located. I will take the place of the BOOST and allow you to control the ML-ACR from up there. You decide HOW MUCH work it will be to run the 3 wires....and I'll leave that to you. In my opinion this is the best option and very easy to do unless you have to run wires to the front for the remote switch. Which you don't need but is nice to have. On my 06 navigator there are extra not used wires ran on the coach. I was able to find them to use for my remote switch so didn't have to run any new ones. My electric panel in the rear is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment and i found the wire with a connector on it right above the panel tied together with a bunch of other wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor and Laura Posted July 21, 2023 Author Share Posted July 21, 2023 Thank you Tom and Kevin for sharing your thoughts on this, having what I believe to be 2 functional Big Boy relays I decided to order an Intellitec BIRD D2 early this morning, the 1st 2 low cost sources would not ship to Canada, but RVPartsPro will, $75US + shipping etc.. could be 2 to 3 wks though.. Am I correct in thinking that this new module will supply a reduced voltage to the relay coil, would make sense since they are both from Intellitec? The drawing for that spare harness is difficult? to read, but it does list for Dynasty, yr 200?, I will go looking for it when we get her back from having drag link surgery, what and where are the other terminations that I'm guessing the drg shows? There are so many wires on this beasty.. Will have some time to get this sorted, like what is the "ignition" input, maybe chassis batteries, or does it have to be HOT with engine running? Thought this had been sent... Believe AZ Experts video used unswitched chassis battery to ignition and a comment below challenged that, with support from Intellitec.. I need to understand more before cutting wires.. that video seemed to be in the front box? Think Trevor is going to be needing more help, sorry, like locating the boost signal at the rear box and knowing which is that Intellitec board... Thanks again, Trevor 2006 42ft Dynasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 21, 2023 Share Posted July 21, 2023 7 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said: Thank you Tom and Kevin for sharing your thoughts on this, having what I believe to be 2 functional Big Boy relays I decided to order an Intellitec BIRD D2 early this morning, the 1st 2 low cost sources would not ship to Canada, but RVPartsPro will, $75US + shipping etc.. could be 2 to 3 wks though.. Am I correct in thinking that this new module will supply a reduced voltage to the relay coil, would make sense since they are both from Intellitec? The drawing for that spare harness is difficult? to read, but it does list for Dynasty, yr 200?, I will go looking for it when we get her back from having drag link surgery, what and where are the other terminations that I'm guessing the drg shows? There are so many wires on this beasty.. Will have some time to get this sorted, like what is the "ignition" input, maybe chassis batteries, or does it have to be HOT with engine running? Thought this had been sent... Believe AZ Experts video used unswitched chassis battery to ignition and a comment below challenged that, with support from Intellitec.. I need to understand more before cutting wires.. that video seemed to be in the front box? Think Trevor is going to be needing more help, sorry, like locating the boost signal at the rear box and knowing which is that Intellitec board... Thanks again, Trevor 2006 42ft Dynasty OK....here is the CIRCUIT you need to use. NOW REMEMBER....if your BIG BOY was running that hot...then ODDS ARE....the COIL is shot. A NEW Diesel2 WILL replace the present controller. BUT, if you have a bad BIG BOY....then that will have to be replaced. You will ALSO need to locate the WIRE from the Boost Switch UP FRONT. That wire sends out a GROUND signal to the control board on your MH. You need to run 12 VDC to it....or the CENTER terminal of the BOOST Switch. THEN you will have a 12 Positive, NOT GROUND, signal to the back....that goes to the relay... SO....you install the relay. DO NOT use the GEN SET terminal on the Diesel2 Module. Monaco stopped and it still works.... The rest is just getting the HOUSE and the CHASSIS (Ignition ON) signal. Plenty of places to find them. This will work.....all the 08 plus and up Camelots and a lot of the lower food chains have used this. it was used on them until REV stopped producing....it is tried and tested... Hope this helps... PM me if questions.... Battery BoostCutoff switches.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 22, 2023 Share Posted July 22, 2023 @Trevor and Laura UPDATE….for you and others….I have been helping folks with this and the “situations” run together. Here is some points that I may have included….or NOT….PLUS some comments from @Frank McElroy this afternoon. The Dynasty is one more tough nut to troubleshoot. The Big Boy is almost buried. My advice to others….do the voltage testing. If you are not getting the Big Boy to work and it is not energized or also not providing the charging voltage…..THEN….you measure the voltage on the coil. Easier said than done. Frank also says the board is tucked in and the output terminals are almost impossible to probe due to where they are located as well as that side of the board is almost inaccessible. My suggestion was to pull the BB. Put an alligator clip on each control terminal and see if it will be safe to be “sort of” put back in place. The voltage on the coil with the boost switch should be above 12 VDC. When it is working or getting hot and humming, on a Dynasty (or above), the VOM voltage on the coil terminals will be pulsed, but most VOM’s will give an average reading. That should be at least 5 or 6 VDC MINIMUM and probably less than 9….but closer to the high 7’s or 8. Ih you just think that the top terminal is the source and assume the bottom (which is impossible to get to….thus the alligator clip leads……snd you measure the top to ground….that is wrong. You have to measure the voltage (via the leads) across the two terminals… Just wanted to post that and correct any misunderstanding…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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