2011 Camelot air compressor issues and questions. Need help understanding system.

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, Yoaks5 said:

No. My post was edited by Tom Cherry who is. 

I should also say I agree with the edit. It looks like I was telling the op to adjust the regulator but I was actually just trying to explain how it works and that it was not his air connection he was looking for. Poor wording on my part glad Tom caught it. 

Not a problem.  This weekend was a blur and I had 5 minutes this morning and wanted to prevent any damage.  We try to keep some posts from being misunderstood.  Thank for the follow up.

[camelot]

The female connector is for onflating tires ect, but what male fitting do I ask for at Ace Hardware. ty !Steve

[Tom Cherry]

27 minutes ago, camelot said:

The female connector is for onflating tires ect, but what male fitting do I ask for at Ace Hardware. ty !Steve

There is a bit of debate.  I THINK that the fitting is the standard "Home/Industrial/Shop" air fitting.  Somewhere in my memory, I THOUGHT it was what was called, originally, an "Automotive Type T" fitting.  Lowes has them. I was corrected later as I had purchased a Type T Male and used it.  I had made up a short adapter with a Type T Male and a Shop Female.  I think that the last time I used it, I just used the standard Shop. I DO recall that the Type T was a bit "hard to get on". The male fitting for recharging the brakes is a Type T...

Others will have to confirm.  I'd try a a Shop.  Just squirt a smidge of WD-40, or better STILL  Tri-Flo. That works great on locks and I do that monthly for the padlocks I use on the hitch pins when I hook up the Toad.  They get rain and whatever... The rotating cuff or sleeve as it might need lubing.  DO NOT BLAST. There are small ball bearings in there to lock it in...you will probably only to do this ONCE... It helps to push back the sleeve and then push in the male.

Good Luck

[Ivan K]

Given the way it looks, I would just replace the female coupler to match what hoses you plan to use. My hoses are high flow V-style for big tools so that's what I replaced it with. No one else will use the port so what does it matter.

[BradHend]

Everything I run in my shop and the convenience inflator outlet on the motorhome are the industrial Type D.  
This is easily identified by the “V” form on the male connector. 
If the store you goto has the color coding system of blue or red or green, the one you want is red - Type D or industrial

Edited August 7, 2023 by BradHend

[camelot]

if I replace the female coupler wont the air pressure in the system burst out? TY Steve

[Ivan K]

1 minute ago, camelot said:

if I replace the female coupler wont the air pressure in the system burst out? TY Steve

Yes, of course you drain the tanks first.

[BradHend]

No. It has a safety seal built in.  The only air that will be released is the air from the hose you used when you disconnect it. 
Mis-read your question…yes. You will lose air.  No big deal. Change it out and air back up.   Make sure you use thread tape.  
Spray your air tank drain valves with some penetrating oil (I think they need it) and drain the system that way if you need to.  Otherwise just slowly unturn the connector until air starts to leak out and continue when it stops.

Edited August 7, 2023 by BradHend

[camelot]

To drain the tank I use the knob right under the female connector? That will also drain any water in the system? TY Steve

[camelot]

Got the fittings changed out and could not get more than 50psi in tire. The air gauge on the dash shows like 70 psi with engine running. Any ideas? Ty Steve

[BradHend]

🤨 I would assume then that you cannot release your brakes?

If you shut the engine off do you hear air escaping anywhere?

Edited August 7, 2023 by BradHend

[camelot]

1 minute ago, BradHend said:

🤨 I would assume then that you cannot release your brakes?

pretty levelI can I am parked in an rv resort pretty level.

[BradHend]

I just mean if your dash guage is only reading 70PSI, that’s too low to release your parking brake is it not?  Does the guage drop with engine off but in run position?

Edited August 7, 2023 by BradHend

[96 EVO]

2 minutes ago, BradHend said:

I just mean if your dash guage is only reading 70PSI, that’s too low to release your parking brake is it not?  

30-40psi

[camelot]

By releasing the parking brake it will help filling tire? I can release my brakes any time i believe?

[96 EVO]

You would be well served to take an Air Brake course. At the very least, find one online, and spend some time understanding this complex system!

A air brake course is about 16hrs of classroom learning, then a hands-on test of your knowledge.

[Tom Cherry]

33 minutes ago, camelot said:

pretty levelI can I am parked in an rv resort pretty level.

WHOA….back to some basics.  Again, read the entire section on the brakes and air system.  There is a complete snd easy to follow set of instructions to test the sir and braking system.  Your POST SCARES ME…so, here is an overview…

Parking brake ON.  Engine off.  Level ain’t got NOTHING to do with this.  Start the Engine.  In a few minutes, you should hear a big WHOOSH.  That is the Air Governor cutting back and the WHOOSH is a burst of exhausted air from the Air Dryer.  Your gauges should read in the 115 PSI range…both FRONT and REAR.  If the air compressor is running (if I  listen carefully, I can barely hear it)…the. The WHOOSH…then the system is fully charged.  If NOT….you have an issue and need to carefully read and runnthe tests and find a truck shop qualified to work on DOT OTR (tractor trailer) brakes.

NOW…when you drive, if you watch the gaugues, you should NRVER see below 100 PSI.  My Camelot usually, after applying the brakes, will drop down to maybe 105 - 107….then, since the compressor is running…go back to 112 or so.

NOW, if you are sitting and pumping up a tire….the air tanks on the MH will NOT be replenished or repressurized without the engine running.  When I top off the front tires, I have to use a key point to drain down (engine running) the air tanks. When it goes WHOOSH….I quickly stop.  A helper can just lightly keep tapping the brakes and do the same th)ng.  THEN, the system air pressure will be above 120 and then I start to inflate.  But when the pressure in the tire drops below the pressure in the tire….NOTHING HAPPENS — in equilibrium.  So, rinse and repeat.  Drain down the tanks (engine always  ON) and eventually you get to the front…in my case 115. Rears are not as cantankerous….since they are 100.

BOTTOM LINE….to inflate anything…the engine has to be running….but the way you stated this….your scared me…so read and understand and do the air brake test in the manual.  That will also make you drain the tanks….which is important.

[camelot]

Ok The engine running the whole time the pressure gauge never got above the line between 65 and 150 psi standing still with the parking brake on.  I had to drain down the tanks in order to replace the female couple to fit my air hose. TY Steve

[BradHend]

Did you close the drain after

 

[Tom Cherry]

21 minutes ago, camelot said:

Ok The engine running the whole time the pressure gauge never got above the line between 65 and 150 psi standing still with the parking brake on.  I had to drain down the tanks in order to replace the female couple to fit my air hose. TY Steve

ERRRR…did you mean 65 & 105.  As Brad says, if you are a bit, less than conscientious, the 1/4 turn valves might leak a little.  This topic is getting short and choppy.

Please drain all the tanks as the manual shows and describes.  BTW, there may be a small tank that you have to sort of crawl under from the left (passenger side front…either right in front of the step or from the front corner of the bumper.  Look up.  Drain the bottom and retighten.  

NOW….AFTER draining, make sure the valves are closed and absolutely perpendicular to the body.  NOW start the engine.  If you never hear the whoosh and the pressure in BOTH FRONT and REAR never gets into the 117 - 120 range…YOU MAY HAVE A MAJOR ISSUE.  It may NOT be safe to even drive it.  The only way, other than a mobile OTR Truck Mechanic, is to read and follow the testS in the manual. We can’t do that by posting…

THEN please post the results from each step and tell us.  Right now, the info is short and choppy and several folks have commented offline their concerns…. It is difficult to answer or advise you….and also DANGEROUS as we can’t get a real handle on what is going on or the answers or information from what  you’re posting.

Please understand that many want to help…but until you do the above and report back, then we are concerned about your driving safety…the test is easy…just follow the simple steps…then let us know. If that is confusing, call a mobile TRUCK repair (OTR Tractor Trailer) tech.  Most of the large truck stops have them or know who to recommend.  Tell them you have may have an air brake issue and need a tech that knows the Federal DOT standards and can test your motor home, 

NOW…if the pressures build up OK and then the AIR goes WHOOSH….then probably safe to drive…even so, based on your posts, you STILL need to do the system checks….the steps in the manual and the  post… it MAY still be OK so you can drive to a garage…but we have to know what you find out.  The steps tell you what to look for….and WHEN the system has failed….a few simple air lines, which takes max of 5 minutes per fitting might just be it.  Right NOW…we are clueless…

Thanks,

[dl_racing427]

Tom is absolutely right.
ANYONE who is going to own or operate a vehicle with air brakes MUST understand the basic system operation, and how to do a standard daily air brake leakdown test.
This should be done at the start of EVERY day's driving.

Air brakes are quite powerful and effective, IF properly maintained and used.
Low air pressure can result in unexpected application of the parking brakes, and at that point those are the ONLY brakes you may have at all.
If that happens on a long downgrade it can quickly overheat those brakes and result in a complete runaway. Not a good day for you or anyone else on the road with you.

[96 EVO]

46 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

Please drain all the tanks as the manual shows and describes.   

His supply tank drain is 'missing' the thumbscrew!

This is the third time I've mentioned that!

[96 EVO]

Here's a photo of mine. Same setup as yours! 

See the black valve? That's what has likely been broken off on yours!

That IS your most important drain! If there is moisture in your tank(s), that's where your going to find it!

 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

His supply tank drain is 'missing' the thumbscrew!

This is the third time I've mentioned that!

Ben, 

@camelot & @96 EVO

Good Catch.  Yes, the wet tank or the male fitting is missing the 1/4 turn handle.  After some odd line discussions with folks, who are very concerned about the safe driving conditions of the air system and Steve’s comments.  I have been on the phone with Steve and he answered some questions and also told me more.

Coincididentalky, Steve is in Daytona and headed to olrladno onWednesday.  He is making an appointment withjosams and i have sent him a checklistnof what is going on.

So…from the top.  Yes…Ben is correct.  The rear male (recharge) fitting valve is broken.  It cannot be drained….and has not been drained in a while.  That will be replaced.  Steve says he has not felt any air escape.

The other fitting or the Air Coupler did not have the cover.  Living in Florida, odds are, from the picture….totally rusted out.  Steve has replaced it and checked for leaks and he said it was tight and he also had no leaks from the rear (male) fitting.

BUT…two things have happened were not posted.  Steve says that when he started the engine and the system was airing up, the governor and the air dryer made the WHOOSH within a few minutes.  Then, both front and rear gauges are bout midway between 65 and 150 PSI.  When he is driving, they stay up there (half way betseen 65/150 or normal) and he has good brakes.

BUT, when he is stopped or waiting for something and with his foot pretty hard on the brake, he occasionally gets the LOW REAR Alarm…but it goes away when he backs off.  Didn’t use to be that way.

He las lost his Valid “auto level” and the aux compressor no longer turns on….and he has to use manual leveling.

All of the above will be checked by Josams as well as the entire system and the DOT air brake test.

Rather than shut down this topic for a while, it would request that we back off from more svice and let Barry and Josams (Mike is their Monaco guy), troubleshoot and fix whatever is wrong and make it safe again.

Thanks for all the input nd posts, but it is best to get it fixed and then we or I will get a field report.  

His initial question was he had a tag tire down and never could get it pumped up.  He will get that done before he goes on the trip.

Thanks,