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Re-install TV and upgrade the receiver


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Posted

After many years of owning the coach, I have removed the TV hardware that was used to carry the boop-tube TV and reinstalled the TV in a far better manner. It all started with the desire to cut down the head-banger box to a better size, but as I could not find enough screws to remove, I admitted defeat on that front. The re-install enables us to utilize the empty space for storage that the original TV required.

Previously the flat screen TV was mounted (by yours truly) at a slight angle using the old steel structure and it would tend to droop forward somewhat when extended. With the reinstall this was corrected and everything is now level and square. The next step was to connect the TV to the combination receiver/DVD/tape player that Monaco installed. I found it would turn on but the remotes with new batteries would not make it work. We looked around for a 5.1 receiver and found an Onkyo on closeout for little over $200 at Costco. BestBuy was about $100 more but still better than the msrp price. All told, a pretty sweet deal. Removing the old receiver required careful speaker connection labeling. Thank you Monaco for installing a molex connector for the speaker wires as this allowed me to remove this and then reinstall it in the comfort at home and not in the coach.

The receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR393 and installation is quite easy. The new receiver was installed this morning and the initial setup completed, including the speaker balancing. The sub-woofer would not participate in the balancing and it will be dealt with when we are parked in Fl in a few weeks.

Included are some of the photos of the completed project and all the steel tv structure that I removed.

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Posted

The subwoofer output of this receiver is not amplified.  The subwoofer Monaco installed is likely not powered.  This means that you will have to install some sort of amplifier between the receiver and the subwoofer.  

  -Rick N.

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Posted

Martin, keep an eye on that TV mount, as you drive to Florida...they're great for homes, but I wonder how the road vibration will affect its strength/integrity. I went a bit different route than you and flipped some of the original framework around, in order to bring it further forward, and mounted our TV to that. While it is fixed and doesn't swivel out at all, it is stout and has withstood multiple trips with no issues. Have fun in Florida, we'll be there in January to visit family, but we're flying.

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Posted

I had one TV almost fall off the mount, the plastic actually started to crack and I just happen to see it was sitting a little slanted.  Made a fast repair but then changed out the TV to a different model.  This time I positioned the swing out mount so that when the TV was stowed it would rest tight against the wood.  I took some screen door clips and put one underneath each corner and then a couple up the side.  This keeps the TV from bouncing. 

I did a similar method on the rear TV, mounted at a height that it rests on top of the DVD player I put in and then use a bungee to hold it tight against the front of the cabinet.

Posted

The tv mount (Frederik’s comment) is a very robust MorRyde locking mount and over the years has not given any issue nor has the Jensen tv which, at the time it was purchased, was recommended for an rv. So I am confident with the installed equipment and it has been holding up for the last 6 years. 😀
 

Rick, thank you fir the comment re the sub-woofer.  I will have to research that. 

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  • Solution
Posted

I recently did a receiver upgrade and discovered as @waterskier_1 pointed out that the OEM subwoofer would not work because the sub output of the receiver was not amplified.  I decided to purchase a powered subwoofer that fit in the same cabinet as the OEM sub.  More $$'s but it sounds great.  If you go this route you will have to provide 120V power.  This was not a problem in my situation as I had an outlet nearby mounted in the same cabinet as the sub.

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Posted

Very timely as I am about to take on a complete redo.  Prior owners put in a mixed bag of A/V.   The wire and remote count is a comic tragedy.......

The articulating arm is a good idea, but needs some sort of positive lock process.  Dont need the tv to swing out while going up some grade, etc.  As well as can support a larger screen outside the box vs in.   The lock process could also pick up the weight/vibration duties when traveling

Hmmmmmmm

 

Posted

This is why, when I replaced the old RCA  RT-DVD1 tuner/cd/dvd/amp head unit, I decided to do my research ad nausea, so the original speakers and subwoofer would still work, and I was fortunate enough to find that RCA made a newer head unit that not only was compatible, but also has Bluetooth as well as HDMI inputs, which works well, since Dish no longer uses RG outputs. The down side is that it’s just a tuner/amp head unit, so I had to connect a separate BluRay player, but that’s no big deal, plus the new RCA head unit weighs 1/5th that of the old RT-DVD1 unit.

Posted
18 hours ago, Bill R said:

I recently did a receiver upgrade and discovered as @waterskier_1 pointed out that the OEM subwoofer would not work because the sub output of the receiver was not amplified.  I decided to purchase a powered subwoofer that fit in the same cabinet as the OEM sub.  More $$'s but it sounds great.  If you go this route you will have to provide 120V power.  This was not a problem in my situation as I had an outlet nearby mounted in the same cabinet as the sub.

I chose another option.  I got a Marantz Thin Line A/V receiver (thin, height-wise).  It was a 7.1-channel amp, but I only needed 5.1-channels for the surround sound.  I used one of the unused surround channels to drive the sub-woofer.  Another option would be to purchase an inexpensive sub amp marketed for auto stereo business.  It doesn't have to have a gazzion watts, at least for most of us.  We aren't trying to rock the coach  :).  

  -Rick N.

Posted

Martin: Great job, I just love to see DIY type of guys making improvements to their coaches. I am also a DIY guy and believe in doing things myself. So take a view of what I have done to upgrade all my tv's to a smart tv. Up front I installed a 43" smart tv using Harbor Freights moveable tv mount, slightly modified for its purpose. Now, I knew that the overhead cabinets would be a problem before installing, so the HF mount was chosen because of it ability to swivel side to side. I modified it in that when traveling, I insert two pins to keep the tv in flush. I used 1/2" adhesive backed window weather stripping and installed it on the cabinet edges. The bottom corners were fitted with soft foam to just in case you bump your head. The big tv does not rattle or shake when the coach is in motion.

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Posted
17 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

We aren't trying to rock the coach 

Well Rick, I am a product of the '80's music genre.  What can I say, I do like bass.  🙂

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