4rickyg Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 2005 HR Navigator. Was going to change out my fluorescent lights above the sink And the pantry. When I removed them I found No Voltage at the black and white wires. Also a problem at the switch cluster in front of the sink. I lost some of the operation there. The switches do not light up when I turn them on. No rope lights no baseboard heater. But the ceiling lights the aqua hot diesel, the halogen lights and the water pump all comes on. All switches and lights in the front of the coach and bedroom are working normal just the kitchen has the problem. Also, the 110 outlets are all working in the kitchen. I've checked the breakers in the bedroom. The fuses in the closet and fuses in the front and rear run bays. I can't seem to figure it out. If anyone has some ideas I would appreciate it. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 How did you check fuses?? Visually or a test light on each end of them? How did you measure the voltage at the wires? Grab an extension cord, plug it into an outlet and then plug the negative lead of your meter into the ground hole of the cord. An alligator clip is very useful for this as well. You may have lost a ground or the hot lead but the only way to be sure is having a good known ground for your meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4rickyg Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 I used a test light on the fuses. And I used a tone detector on the 110. I could go back in with the Volt meter and see if I get anything on the white and black wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MurrayD Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Did you check the pop out breakers on the inverter? Also check the GFI receptacle in the bathroom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4rickyg Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Just put the meter on the white and black wire did not get anything. Not quite sure what you mean about the extension cord. I have a cord with alligator clips on each end. What do I do with that? I just looked this coach does not have any g f i's in the bathroom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 A standard electrical cord that has a hot/neutral/ and the roundish hole that is the ground. The grounds throughout the RV are tied together including the DC circuits. So you can run your own long wire to a known good ground, or grab any extension cord that has the ground lug and plug it into an outlet. I bought a standard replacement plug and ran just one wire inside it. So the plug goes into any outlet and the long wire has an alligator clip on the end to connect to my voltmeter probe. Finding a reliable ground for testing in any vehicle can be a problem, an RV can be a nightmare. I have two dedicated places on mine with dedicated wires to connect to them when needed. However my simple plug is my go to device now. I did not suggest you are looking for 110 which can be associated with a gfci or a breaker on an inverter because I have mostly seen 12 volt fixtures. Electrons are color blind and don't care what color the wires are. White can be hot or the black. Snow flakes and sometimes just out of necessity. Sometimes they switch the ground side of devices which can really throw you a curve. A couple of pictures of the fixtures would assure us of being 12 volt or 110 volt. It might be as simple as having bumped the "salesman switch" on one of your entrys or exits. I might add that you should test your voltmeter setup on a known good circuit. Since you tested some fuses with a test light (checking each end of each fuse), touch your meter positive probe there with the meter grounded as mentioned. Once you have a confident measurement there, move back to the light problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 3 hours ago, 4rickyg said: 2005 HR Navigator. Was going to change out my fluorescent lights above the sink And the pantry. When I removed them I found No Voltage at the black and white wires. Also a problem at the switch cluster in front of the sink. I lost some of the operation there. The switches do not light up when I turn them on. No rope lights no baseboard heater. But the ceiling lights the aqua hot diesel, the halogen lights and the water pump all comes on. All switches and lights in the front of the coach and bedroom are working normal just the kitchen has the problem. Also, the 110 outlets are all working in the kitchen. I've checked the breakers in the bedroom. The fuses in the closet and fuses in the front and rear run bays. I can't seem to figure it out. If anyone has some ideas I would appreciate it. Thank you OK, a little confused. When you said “black and white”, did you mean that the Fluorescent fixture is 120 VAC? Pulled the prints. They don’t show any 120 VAC lights. Typically ALL interior lighting, except one “rarely used” dinette optional light are 12 VDC. ALL the ceiling lights and center fluorescent lights are 12 VDC. IF someone has installed a 120 VAC fluorescent, it has to come off the Inverter circuit. There are TWO circuits. One for the receptacles….which is on a GFCI in the 120 VAC subpanel… the other one is the Microwave that is on a standard breaker in the same subpanel. It would be helpful to understand what type of voltage is going to the fluorescents… Are the rope lights original? Are they 120 VAC or 12 VDC. If you could list the devices or lights that are not working, but also list the voltage… 12 VDC or 120 VAC….then troubleshooting would be easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4rickyg Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 This is the fixture and the wires it plugs into. Only some of the switches are working. When I turn on the first one,rope lites all the switches should light up. They are not. Also base board heater is not turning on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 45 minutes ago, 4rickyg said: OK…. The Black and White was confusing. In the later models, Monaco used all “white” wiring and used dot matrix printed labels. Look in your manual. There are prints in the back. It is divided into sections. There is one section, probably the back one, labeled “MULTI USE. Then start to scroll back. It appears that you have “Breaker” problem in the Rear Run bay. If you look at the House Fuse distribution panel, not sure where it is located, but there is a label of the fuses. Circuits 6 as, best I can tell as the copy we have is a bit light, are the issue. Hard to figure out which fuse the fluorescents are on. There is a 2 Gauge cable running to the section of the panel. So, my bet is that there is a resettable Circuit Breaker in the Rear Run bay. It will have a horizontal lever on it. When it trips, the lever is pointed down on the right side. Look at all the high current breakers….one has probably tripped. You can also test the power in the fuse panel. Using the ROUND GROUND PIN in an AC receptacle works as a GROUND….do NOT USE EITHER OF THE TWO RECTANGULAR or slots…they are 120 VAC?. I would either start swapping fuses or use a VOM and test each one. Two prints show 6 and the panel layout. Good luck That’s it… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4rickyg Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Got it😊 It was the number two 20 Amp fuse. Guess i missed it somehow with the test light. One more question are those fluorescent lights? 12 V? Thank you so much for your help.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 27 minutes ago, 4rickyg said: Got it😊 It was the number two 20 Amp fuse. Guess i missed it somehow with the test light. One more question are those fluorescent lights? 12 V? Thank you so much for your help.. YEP and DOUBLE YEP. Use the search box and out in “Fluorescent”. Then click on EVERYWHERE. Select TOPICS. Grab s cup of coffee…. The ballasts usually “go first”. Eventually they either fail or start to draw too much current. The replacements are varied. Some bypass the ballasts and use the existing end clips and put in 12 VDC bulbs. So, they run OK. Others pull out the tubes and replace with LED strips… VERY FEW buy new. VERY FEW buy new ballasts…but if you did, you would use the same tubes that are in them now… Glad you found the issue. Remember that that rear panel has a breaker in the RRB… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Good on ya! Your confidence will grow each time you chase one of these down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 On my current and last coach I installed LED light strips and just cut the wires and left the ballast in place. I would do it in the summer when the cabin space is warmer for better adhesion to the light fixture. I haven’t experienced any failure of adhesive strips on the LED’s. I choose natural on the color spectrum for the LED’s. You can buy a roll and then extra pigtails to make up your own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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