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Aquahot low bat voltage light.


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Aqua hot 600 D. Unit was blowing a lot of white smoke And shutting off. I performed the annual service of filters new nozzle and cleaned all the carbon build up. After reassembly it will not fire up. When I turn on the rocker switch inside of the coach , it does not light and the unit does nothing. Looking at the panel the red low voltage light is on. I hit the reset button. It will go out and then come. Come back on when I try to start it. Checked all the fuses I could find. some in the front Bay some in the rear Bay. They all seemed good. Also battery voltage is 13.3 house and coach. Any ideas what to check next? Thanks Rick 

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5 minutes ago, 4rickyg said:

Yeah I figured that! Not really sure where to go from here?

Your PRINTS.  You need to find the power source for the Aquahot Contol system. The 2005 was a "Transition" year. No one here can tell you WHICH system you have.  That is NOT the AQUAHOT...that is HOW your AQUAHOT gets its power.

Look at your prints.  The copy we have in the files is for a 2006, but the manual they came from was a LATE 2005.

The difference....  DO YOU HAVE THE INTELLITEC MPX SYSTEM?  Assuming you are aware of the differences...if not, then you need to be conversant with which type you have.

IF the Aquahot's "control panel" or the interior switches are on a LIGHTED Keypad like all the other switches...then you have the MPX system and the 2005 Dynasty Prints in the file will work for you.  There are TWO circuits that control the Aquahot....  AND THESE ARE NOT related to the Thermostat.  The 5 Button Thermostat on sends a CLOSED THE CONTACT Signal. These two circuits are divided and one on an MPX output relay and the other is on another different one.

If you had searched AquaHot prior to the post, then there is an explanation on this ....

The attached print shows HOW the Aquahot gets the BURNER ON signal as WELL as the Main Power.  I can NOT recall if the old "Three Switch AH Panel" works this way....but you can download the 2004 Dynasty/Navigator/Imperial/Executive/Signature (they are ALL the same) and look at the "Aquahot" print.  The control panels are a bit different...but the INCOMING power is the same.  MAYBE the same as yours...I did not have that print up...

BUT...there is a 25A fuse, or maybe a Resettable or an Auto Reset circuit breaker in the rear...  Board R5 or #5....  At least for the MPX Controlled AH function.

For the old fashioned....who knows. BTW...the Relay and Fuse just to the left and below is for the MPX system so you can control the speeds of the front system.  This was a fiasco...and it took Monaco 2 years to get the Owner's Manual verbiage correct...as well as the prints... 

BUT...YOUR ISSUE IS LOW VOLTAGE....so start measuring VOLTAGE.  NOW...a TIP... JUST because you have a full 13.3 VDC out of the FUSE in the back is NO GUARANTEE that you have it up front.

The PROPER METHOD.  USE your VOM on the control board.  Then try the RESET.  Likewise, turn ON the burner.  Look at the voltage....does it change.

Do the same in the rear.  If there is high resistance connection between the front and the rear...you can NEVER chase it down until you test with the load applied or being applied.

That's it...have at it... SOME FOLKS, IIRC, have had to run a new 25A fused (#10 wire - stranded) from the Front Run HOUSE BATTERY HOT STUD back to their Aquahot as the board in the rear....went south. We have folks that can fix these boards...but if all else is working on the fused circuits for the board...then it is probably a high resistance in the cable...so the fix...  CHANGE the input...but FUSE it or put in a Resettable 25 Amp CB in the FRB and label it and then run the new feed.

Good LUCK.. 

MONACO 2005 AQUAHOT PRINT.pdf

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Thank you, Tom. I got it figured out. I had 13 V at the 25A fuse in the rear run Bay. But the 10 gauge black wire next to it That supplies the power to the aquahot looked burnt and was loose. I took it on and off a couple times and then had 13 amps to the control board. Think I need to cut the spade connector off of that wire and install a new one for a better connection. 

 Also when the Motor was running.

And the burner ignited I was getting a little over one vault drop Add to control panel. Do you think that is normal?

Thanks again to everyone for all of your replies😊

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33 minutes ago, 4rickyg said:

It was giving me problems before I decided to do the maintenance. That could have been why it was cutting in and out on me. I think the voltage was fluctuating.

Ah,

ok, that makes sense!

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1 hour ago, 4rickyg said:

Thank you, Tom. I got it figured out. I had 13 V at the 25A fuse in the rear run Bay. But the 10 gauge black wire next to it That supplies the power to the aquahot looked burnt and was loose. I took it on and off a couple times and then had 13 amps to the control board. Think I need to cut the spade connector off of that wire and install a new one for a better connection. 

 Also when the Motor was running.

And the burner ignited I was getting a little over one vault drop Add to control panel. Do you think that is normal?

Thanks again to everyone for all of your replies😊

Yes.  If you don’t have a ratcheting crimper, I recommend you check Amazon and buy the best rated.  Sure makes life easier than squeezing pliers and you get a uniform crimp.  You can use a Butt splice and add in a 12” or so piece and trim or make sure you have clean copper on the outgoing,  YES….the joys of owning s MOTOR HOME.

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