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Size of cargo doors


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We were in a crash in bakersfield this week and had all of our cargo doors wiped out on the driver's side. We have a 1998 Monaco Dynasty. Someone sent me a link to a junkyard in Kentucky and they have a 1999with doors intact. .I'm not sure if the cargo doors are the same size. does anybody know?

Thanks

 

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Me too but they are saying they weren't at fault, blaming me. You know how that goes, he said, she said.  I think all the damage clearly points to him ramming us from behind. but no witnesses, nobody stopped.

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I'm quite sure if you give them the year, make and model name and send them a photo of the side they will be able to ensure they can or cannot fill your needs. Also helpful would be width measurement sof each door.

I have had success over the phone just providing year, make and model.

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1 hour ago, Preston W said:

Me too but they are saying they weren't at fault, blaming me. You know how that goes, he said, she said.  I think all the damage clearly points to him ramming us from behind. but no witnesses, nobody stopped.

Do you run a dash cam?

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2 hours ago, bobdinsmore said:

I'm quite sure if you give them the year, make and model name and send them a photo of the side they will be able to ensure they can or cannot fill your needs. Also helpful would be width measurement sof each door.

I have had success over the phone just providing year, make and model.

Thank you. will do.

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Do you run a dash cam?

I have a garment but it's down below.And I don't use the dash cam.Angle. For that  it would have been great because it would have proved.I was in my lane and not wandering.

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My heRt goes out to you. I just replaced a single wet bay door skin. I provided the labor to remove and install the door after a new skin was made and then installed and painted. It still cost me close to $700.

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Looks to me like the first doors with the wheel scuffs might be fixable.  Just sand them down and bondo and deep gouges or scratches and prime. 

The door that the skin is peeled up on will need a new skin, along with the smaller door.  The skin is attached to the metal frame with HD 3M type double sided adhesive tape.  If the frame is bent a little it might be fixable, I fixed one by clamping it to a heavy table and then used a large pipe wrench to bend it back, I put a couple pieces of scrap wood on both side to prevent scratching the metal with the pipe wrench.   The the frame is not fixable it can be duplicated, really not much to the doors, a good shop can make. 

Looks like the hing portion that attaches to the side of the coach is good but you might need new pieces that attach to the top of the door.  REVrvparts still sells these.

https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=47139&organizationId=9

 

Back in 2013 my wife was pulling out of a fuel station and caught the coach right under the front slide, smashing the door hinges on 3 doors flat as a pancake, couldn't open the doors.   Also caught the slide trim on the bottom.  I removed 4 doors, the slide out of the hinge portion attached to the side of the coach, there is a small rivet that hold them in place and aligned that I had to drill out.  I removed two under the slide and the last two larger doors for the wet bay and smaller bay next to it.  Went to work.  Bought the above piece of metal hinge from REV, they actually cut into 4 equal lengths and shipped them in a tube (save me a bunch in shipping).  They did not have the part of the hinge that fastens to the side of the coach, I contacted Visione RV Salvage and they cut a piece off of a coach. 

I stripped the paint off the hinge portion that fastens to the side of the coach.  Got the paint codes for my coach from Monaco.  In my case the tops of all the doors were painted a light green so I was able to paint the hinge part that attached to the coach prior to installation. 

I removed the hinge portion that was attached to the top of the door by drilling out the rivets.   I used the pieces I took off as a template to make new pieces, length and also Monaco notched each end to so that it left a gap between the two doors, it also prevents the doors from moving back and forth.  Riveted the new pieces onto the door. 

One of the doors had a pretty good dent in it and was slightly bowed, this is the one I clamped to a table and was able to straighten it. 

Put all the doors back in place and prepped to paint, removed the latch, sanded and primed.  Biggest thing was I had to paint 3 colors with the design on the side.  I had never attempted anything like that so YOUTUBE time.  Turned out pretty good, paint actually turned out great but the clear coat didn't have the same luster as original  Since then I've spent some time polishing and it doesn't look too bad.   I think I spent ~$650 for paint the parts. 

Fast forward last year, I was pulling through a fueling station in CO and caught the concrete barrier and damaged 3 doors at the bottom but I was able to take them off, straighten using heavy mallet and hammer.  Got them pretty straight.  Painted.  

STUFF happens, just have to accept it. 

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1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Looks to me like the first doors with the wheel scuffs might be fixable.  Just sand them down and bondo and deep gouges or scratches and prime. 

The door that the skin is peeled up on will need a new skin, along with the smaller door.  The skin is attached to the metal frame with HD 3M type double sided adhesive tape.  If the frame is bent a little it might be fixable, I fixed one by clamping it to a heavy table and then used a large pipe wrench to bend it back, I put a couple pieces of scrap wood on both side to prevent scratching the metal with the pipe wrench.   The the frame is not fixable it can be duplicated, really not much to the doors, a good shop can make. 

Looks like the hing portion that attaches to the side of the coach is good but you might need new pieces that attach to the top of the door.  REVrvparts still sells these.

https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=47139&organizationId=9

 

Back in 2013 my wife was pulling out of a fuel station and caught the coach right under the front slide, smashing the door hinges on 3 doors flat as a pancake, couldn't open the doors.   Also caught the slide trim on the bottom.  I removed 4 doors, the slide out of the hinge portion attached to the side of the coach, there is a small rivet that hold them in place and aligned that I had to drill out.  I removed two under the slide and the last two larger doors for the wet bay and smaller bay next to it.  Went to work.  Bought the above piece of metal hinge from REV, they actually cut into 4 equal lengths and shipped them in a tube (save me a bunch in shipping).  They did not have the part of the hinge that fastens to the side of the coach, I contacted Visione RV Salvage and they cut a piece off of a coach. 

I stripped the paint off the hinge portion that fastens to the side of the coach.  Got the paint codes for my coach from Monaco.  In my case the tops of all the doors were painted a light green so I was able to paint the hinge part that attached to the coach prior to installation. 

I removed the hinge portion that was attached to the top of the door by drilling out the rivets.   I used the pieces I took off as a template to make new pieces, length and also Monaco notched each end to so that it left a gap between the two doors, it also prevents the doors from moving back and forth.  Riveted the new pieces onto the door. 

One of the doors had a pretty good dent in it and was slightly bowed, this is the one I clamped to a table and was able to straighten it. 

Put all the doors back in place and prepped to paint, removed the latch, sanded and primed.  Biggest thing was I had to paint 3 colors with the design on the side.  I had never attempted anything like that so YOUTUBE time.  Turned out pretty good, paint actually turned out great but the clear coat didn't have the same luster as original  Since then I've spent some time polishing and it doesn't look too bad.   I think I spent ~$650 for paint the parts. 

Fast forward last year, I was pulling through a fueling station in CO and caught the concrete barrier and damaged 3 doors at the bottom but I was able to take them off, straighten using heavy mallet and hammer.  Got them pretty straight.  Painted.  

STUFF happens, just have to accept it. 

Well, right you are and I can't believe that happened again at the gas station. I'd stay out of that place. You're a pretty handy, gentleman though. At least no body injuries.

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I needed to repair some bay doors last year.  What I found is that you need to not only know the year, and likely model, but also the measurements of each door.  For example, my 40-foot Exec has different size doors than a 42-ft or 45-ft.  And that is just in the same year and model.  Don't expect that these salvage yards are going to have a listing of each and every year, make model, and length coach ever produced.  They will likely know year, make, and model only.  It will be up to you to do the research to find all the other models that might have used the same door, and the length of each door.  

I ended up giving up on buying used ones and had mine rebuilt.  They are only aluminum, and unless you have a rounded (curved) edge at the bottom (the pics you posted look like a flat break at the bottom) they can be manufactured at a good (RV) body shop.  I found in my case the door, plus shipping, and then stripping or sanding and any repairs for dings it might have, would have been more than the new doors.  Something to look into.

 -Rick N.

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Thanks Rick. I didn't realize how critical that was. I'll measure the doors and send it to the body shop, they are doing an estimate on the repair.. the bottom of our  doors has about a one inch end section bent at an angle.

Preston

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