Monacoers Daily News

Great and simple solution Richard.

Then use a voltmeter to measure which batteries are getting charged. Try this with engine running/off, shoreline connected and off, same with generator. 

Add these notes to your owners manual as backup and post the page number right on the front of the manual for quick reference in the future. Knowing your own system is better than any manual that was not updated correctly or owner modified.

LakeBob: it certainly seems that you have thoroughly tested that heater core, proving that is is good.  I suggest looking for some other source. 

Like you mentioned, perhaps a valve is leaking or a connection to the core such as a hose clamp that was not tight?  And speaking of hoses, could a connecting hose have a crack?  The system is closed, so you should be able to pressurize at less than the radiator cap (mine is stamped as 16 psi), and use soapy water to check hoses and fittings.

As cbr06 suggested, if the AC compressor was running, its evaporator might be condensing moisture.

I haven't checked the area on my Dynasty (same as yours), but could there have been rain water on those days?

If all else fails, maybe consider keeping your heater housing open/unattached and running the system to observe.  Matter of fact, after considering the options, this might be the easiest test.

- Jeff

I haven't taken a close look at it but I will. Now that I think about it, there are two storage bays and two wheel wells just to get to the battery bay so it is very possible I guess.

I will put some measuring tape on it this week and report back.

It looks as if you have rot on the edges from the pics. You may need to add guardian plates to fix that problem. You should be able to get that piece of aluminum from a rv salvage yard if it is not a stock extrusion/shape. Talin RV in Florida may be a good source/help for you also.

I just discovered my house (stick & brick) AC was caked in ice.  If your evaporator did that, and it does happen, it would drip for hours after shutting down.  That is, of course, if you used the AC on a humid day. 

- bob

12 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Hi Richard,

Same as on ours.

Measure it out, allowing the distance to the center of the coach to run forward, and see how close your estimate is to mine.

At least with Lithium, we may have an option to put the batteries in that bay.

Paul

OK….my take….and what Magnum told me.  The AGS Module is NOT, when using the REMOTE, taking any signal from a remote on the battery.  Whatever value is being input or provided to the Magnum remote….that is the Digital or Multiplexed value or control for the AGS….regardless of old 4 or new AGS-N.

Therefore, if you use the remote readout as the “gospel” or the set parameter for “start” or turn on, then, as I posted, you need to know how that correlates to the real world of the HOUSE BANK.  That takes into account the “innate error”, as Magnum verified, of the remote meter…..versus the Battery Voltage.

NEXT….you have to know how much voltage drop you are experiencing ….UNDER LOAD. You then set the START voltage based on that….but you subtract 0.1 or one tenth.  The Magnum reaction or “OMG, START should be based or calculated that way.

PUT another way.  Lets say you want to start when the batteries reach 50% SOC.  That is defined as the “recovery” voltage….NOT the under load voltage.  Per the charts….the SOC for 50% is about 12 VDC.  LETS ASSUME the Magnum meter is perfect….your DVM and it are dead on.  NOW, lets assume that your UNDER LOAD Voltage is 11.9 VDC…..and you KNOW, through testing that when that stabilizes…..or remains constant….that the bank will recover to 12.0.  SO….as LONG as the UNDER LOAD voltage is 11.9….OK.  BUT when the under load voltage hits 11.8…..then it is time to start and recharge…NOT 11.9…

SO, per Magnum and Trojan, you set the AGS to 11.8. The Magnum has a timed delay…..so maybe after 2 minutes….assuming the voltage is stabile….and it reads 11.8….BINGO the genny starts.  You had a brief, inconsequential time of a couple of minutes where the SOC dropped to say 45% or so….but you met the objective of “recharge” when SOC is LESS than 50%.

OK….hope that helps…..

NEXT UP….you need to know the delta or error or difference between the REAL DVOM House voltage and what the Magnum remote reads….once you know that is Zero or maybe 0.1 or probably closer to 0.2…..then you adjust or use the correlated Remote voltage.  Worse case….say there is a 0.2 VDC error.  You set your Magnum based on expecting it to be 11.8….OPPS, in reality…the Battery Voltage is higher…..as the Magnum remote TYPICALLY, per Magnum, reads LOWER.  Thus, 11.8 on the REMOTE is actually 12.0 on the DVM.  NOW to correlate and achieve your 50% SOC, you have to set the VOLTAGE LOWER….0.2 ERRROR…..OMG….that will be 11.6.  BLASPHEMY.  NOPE reality.  

SO when someone says…..NEVER SET BELOW 12.0….there are two misconceptions.  First….that should be 11.9….as when 12.1 DROPS to 12.09….that is a 12…  NOPE….when the UNDER LOAD Hits 11.8….that is the correct value.

second….the meters are NOT PERFECT.

REALITY….Monaco put the AGM’s up front or back in the rear.  If in manual, I THINK that the placement here and voltage issues or drops are ONLY Relevant when you use it in manual mode.  In the REMOTE MONITOR controlled mode….the REMOTE is the “Voltage Keeper”.  Call Magnum and verify.

SECOND, I have NO IDEA if you have a BMK what the remote wil read compared to the DVOM at the battery.  Test and then adjust….or maybe not needed.

THIRD, @Frank McElroy did a little “rewring”.  I don’t remember exactly why, but he changed it so the actual REMOTE reading has less LOSS.  He will have to chime in.

THATS MY UNDERSTANDING and the explanation and logic of how to properly set the AGS from the remote….

NOW, you see, if your mind took months like mine did to develop snd understand the above scenario……why Magnum decided NOT to “tell the average” owner….but in detailed discussions…..this is how it works…..and Trojan says….when the Under Load voltage….which is NOT the true or recovery voltage…..usually 0.10 - 0.20….you set the AGS to come on 0.1 below that….

FWIW,

When I first tried to set mine using a tape measure it was an exercise in futility.  I finally took a piece of scrap wood and cut it to length so I could easily check and adjust with a quick go/ no go check with the stick.  In my case the rear is different then the front. 

I had several PM's with Todd while he was initially tried to figure out what happen as to the coach starting with the disconnect off.  From pictures it was obvious that the charging circuit had been changed. 

Not sure if the previous owner of his coach did the change due to the Lambert failing or he was a "Really Smart Guy" and wired in the BIRD to actually work with the isolation solenoid.  After reviewing all of this info my guess the later, he made the changes to provide a more robust charging system.  Seems like a great modification and cost ZERO $$$$

I had a local flooring co redo the floor in my 2004 Cheetah.

ll was ok until the roadside slide was activated.  There were multiple scratches on the new flooring.  Seems screws etc were causing the issue along the length of the couch.  For the time being I have taped 1/8" plastic sheet on the floor to prevent further gouging, but how to get to whatever under the couch?

I read on iRV2 a number of folks had experienced similar issues but short of lifting the entire slide up [how] and remove offending screws etc/add 'fabric' to the underside  I didn't see any simple method.

Anyone had this experience and found a solution?

Les

Yikes

Are you a good DYIER

IMHO, I think to fix it right the slide will have to come out.  The damage to the floor on the inside has to be fixed right besides being able to get to the opening where the slide goes.  Also have to check to make sure the bolt did not deform the slide opening, possibly pulling it out so it's not curved, if not fixed the slide may not seal. 

On 5/5/2024 at 4:43 PM, Ivan K said:

AC insulation tape, Prestite tape, used on exposed line and valves. Available on Amazon amongst others.

Thanks, I found several types of "refrigerant tape".  

OK…real world here….done 3 slides and put in Guardian plates.

Jacking the slide. You need a 24” or so 2 x 4.  This will be the “T” or top portion of the Jack.  Next….you gotta measure.  You CAN use a floor hydraulic jack or an automobile screw jack.  This ain’t like lifting the Washington Monument.

I used TWO 2 x 4….laminated (deck screws) for the Jack LEG.  You measure like this…

Bottom or undrside of the slide to a LEVEL surface.   The MH needs to be LEVEL….very important.  BUT…my sloped driveway wasn’t.  I picked two points on the outer edge (the underside….not the flange.  I was installing Guardian plates and knew how wide they were.  I gave myself 2” clearance….so…that point was the edge of the 24” TEE or TOP.  Now…in theory….the lack leg will be 12” further in.  Mark that….on each side.  Now measure down to the driveway or whatever.

Say 36”…..now the math.

Subtract 1 3/4” for the TEE….use 2”….

Next….when the jack is totally down….how high is the pad.  BTW…Bottle Jacks are my choice….then an Auto screw.  Trying to control a floor is NOT what I would use.

SAY the Jack is 12” from bottom of base to top of pad, when fully down…

Subtract 12”.

NOW, you gotta put it in and get it in position….maybe 1 - 2” “working or clearance”….but the longer then the higher the jack….so use 1”.

Subtract 1”.

That is a total of 15”…..you measured 36”…..your Jack Leg, after you screw it onto the 2 x 4 will be 36 - 15 or 21”.

if the surface is not level….do the other end.

next is simple….position each jack and raise the jack until the T Jack (post) contacts the slide….then raise each side about 1/8th inch.  You need a “measuring” or reference point on the slide so you know “how much” the slide….at the side wall is raised.  

BTW….The point, as to how far from the MH the T post is….varies.  If you decide to run the T post perpendicular to the side wall….then the points will be different.

Memory says I centered the distance from the outer edge of the slide to the side wall….then ran the TEE perpendicular….  Some do it, I think, the other way.

THE MAIN THING….only use one jack to move 1/8” or so on that side…..then do the other end.  I only raised mine to get the underside of the slide up enough to slide in the Guardian plate….with maybe 1/16” or so clearance.

The rest is pure common sense and “how do I fix what I broke”.

I KNOW for a fact….than on a living room slide with a refrigerator, it typically takes 4 guys to lift and remove it.  Obviously all connections to mechanism and umbilical have to be removed.  They put it on a cart positioned right behind it.  Bedroom slides are 2 -3…a fullwall slide….GOD only knows….and a dealer will probably not removed tell you to go to a Monaco repair center where they have the cart and such.

BUT simply raising and working under it and replacing or putting in a Guardian plate….piece of cake.

The “wear” hopefully, is just external…..and NOT from a leak.  You do a small hole saw core….maybe 3/4” and examine the core and the sides for “ROT” or mosture My three were all superficial issues….nary a drop of water.  Don’t make false conclusions without facts and coring.  When you grind or cut off the lower side frsme for the Guardian Plates…..you’ll know….in an instant…water or rot….damage or NONE…. 

Did the installer have to remove couch to install flooring??  If so you'll have to remove couch to access the screws. 

I took the core to a radiator repair shop, where they explained that pressure testing can push calcium or other debris into tiny holes, falsely indicating the core is in good condition. They perform vacuum tests on everything; if the core fails to hold a vacuum, then there's a problem. I hope to hear back from them today and will update on their findings. This approach seems logical for detecting small leaks.

(The above was a rewrite of my original post by the sites AI engine. It popped up just before I posted and asked if I wanted to use this feature.  It did enhance the communication a bit.     Its an interesting world we live in!)

I need to repair the scissor hinge on the front door of my coach.  I remember that Randy Bergen repairs the hinges and also would supply the “Tinner’s” rivet if you wanted to repair it yourself.  I tried to contact Randy Bergen however his email address came back as non-deliverable.  I then tried to contact Mikee Baul at his email, but have not heard anything from him.  Does anyone know of another source for the correct size “Tinner’s” rivet?

11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

THIRD, @Frank McElroy did a little “rewring”.  I don’t remember exactly why, but he changed it so the actual REMOTE reading has less LOSS.  He will have to chime in.

THATS MY UNDERSTANDING and the explanation and logic of how to properly set the AGS from the remote….

NOW, you see, if your mind took months like mine did to develop snd understand the above scenario……why Magnum decided NOT to “tell the average” owner….but in detailed discussions…..this is how it works…..and Trojan says….when the Under Load voltage….which is NOT the true or recovery voltage…..usually 0.10 - 0.20….you set the AGS to come on 0.1 below that….

 

The AGS gets the battery voltage from the large 12 volt battery cable connected to the inverter.  To remove the voltage drop on this line, I connected a dedicated battery sensing wire from the house battery bank to the AGS.

I'm in the process of ordering guardian plates for one of my slides. Spoke to Chris yesterday and I'm pleased to report that positive changes are taking place at Talin.  Of course, It will take some time to change the course and get the ship headed in the right direction.   

Jim, you make a good point.  I spent almost 2 hours with a member that understands the “Lambert” a lot more than I do.

I am working on a few notes or corrections that we discussed and he sent me some prints….will be a day or so.

My only comment to what he said and what you posted.

He says he has never seen a 2002 Windsor with the Intellitec IRD or Bird. YES, we see coaches all the time….like…never saw Monaco make this nor is there prints….

I have seen, but can’t recall how your bay looks.  We have pictures of two separate 2002 Windsors with the Intellitec IRD/BIRD 5 terminal module. Now, we do KNOW it is FACTORY.  The white molded panel say so….as it was Monaco screen printed….PN and all.  If you go back and look at the first thread, there is also another panel or block diagram….it says Charging “module or device…memory)….so we know that particular 2002 Windsor left that way.  Another person posted a similar picture.

Bottom line….it was factory installed.  Todd did the voltage testing and also tested in 4 different modes.  It works exactly like my 2009 system does….except one tiny detail.  Later on, Monaco added a control relay for the BOOST.  In the early years….the 12 VDC boost signal (momentarily held on) signal came to the BIRD via a Purple wire.  It was fed INTO the RELAY terminal.  BTW….Intellitec now calls that “Solenoid”.  Then, it was run to one side of the WR solenoid.  Thus….no boost switch ON….BWP 3.5 VDC to solenoid.  Push the boost….full 12 VDC.

NOW….there is a little factoid a few know,  Intellitec had a blocking diode inside….so no backfeed.  Maybe for a coil backfeed???  Anyway….the dropped it.  BIRDs started failing.  Monaco added an isolation relay to feed the coil from the BIRD or when pressed, the boost was 12 VDC.  Later, Intellitec PUT IT BACK IN.

Bottom line.  Frank and I discussed the results of Todd’s testing.  Yes….it is a FULL FLEDGED and documented (on the two Monaco labels or panels) and it works and is functional….Past that???   Still reviewing prints….but what Todd has, as far as the BIRD is factory and it works,

Second point…..and you may be more knowledgeable.  I THOUGHT, erroneously, that the Lambert worked when in storage….

BUT, I was told, with a robust amount of authority…..NO….the Lambert would only “steal” or maintain the chassis if there was charging voltage present on the Hiuse….  That was said to correct my “misunderstanding” of the Lambert.

THUS, we agreed…..if there was a BIRD configuration…..as IS IN Todd’s 2002 Windsor…..no NEED for the Lambert.

Monaco’s assemblers OFTEN put in unnecessary stuff, after a print revision…..no one explained it to them.

They often built experimental units or show coaches.  WHO KNOWS.  But, there were TWO 2002 Windsors with the factory plastic plates that show the BIRD….and one of them works exactly as it was designed…..and yes, if the comment on the Lambert and its need for the house to be charged, is correct….and I bow to the member’s knowledge….then the Lambert was not needed….but left in.

Later today….but probably in a few days….I’ll try to edit and clarify.

The one thing that we, the other member agreed on….  The pictures show it installed.  It works as designed.  The PO gutted the Lambert and removed the Salesman solenoid.   But the Charging Module was factory….an embossed or screen printed Monaco label and block diagram….

How many 2002 Windsor’s were that way?  Don’t know.  There was, he said, some experiments, IIRC, in 2003. DR4Film had a BIRD in his 2004 Windsor…

Let me update this.  If you want to call and help me understand, you have the number.

Thanks,,,

The topic of question about charging has been resolved.  Since it was a general interest issue,

the results of the tests as well as how Todd’s 2002 Windsor was “factory” configured is now in a new topic.

Here is the link.   Please respond or comment on that issue there.  Thanks….

My set up was just like Todd's originally

Attached is the parts page showing the BIRD, Lambert, and Isolation Solenoid, same as Todd's

Also attached is the electrical schematic. 

I did replace all of that with the Bluesea as I was questioning whether it was working correctly, didn't try to figure a work around but evidently the previous owner of Todd's coach was smart enough to figure it out and make it work.

1 Electrical Panel Passenger Sider 1.pdf 1 Electrical Panel Passenger Side 2.pdf 2002_Windsor_wiring_diagrams Rear Passenger side electric.pdf

FWIW I just looked a Richard’s bio to verify and surprised he hasn’t chimed in, but his previous Windsor was a 2002 not ‘04. 

3/16”x3/8 or 1/2” long is what I used. Buy a large rivet gun from AMZ or Harbor Freight. Don’t use alum they won’t pull down tight enough.  BE SURE TO PULL IT DOWN SQUARELY not on an angle. You don’t need SS rivets steel is fine but don’t use alum. You may need to knock down the pulling pin after it’s set with a file. 

Hi all,

I'm trying an experiment with FASS system.

There's a seller on ebay closing out discontinued FASS model TSD11110G that is marketed for ram ecodiesel 3.0. It's cheap enough that I'm willing to experiment a bit. There's one left if anybody is interested. Asking price $295 and accepting offers.

Anyway, this is 110 gph @ 70 psi. Too much pressure.

I think/hope that the various fass "Titanium Signature Series" units are all basically the same and the 16-18 psi regulator spring (PS-1001) is all I need to bring the pressure down to suit the ISL CAPS system. Hopefully the regulator spring and installation kit are the only significant differences.

Fass lists various replacement motor/pump assemblies for the titanium series that appear to be permutations of two different motors with three gear reductions.

What do y'all think? Are there likely to be complications from altering a 70psi pump to output 16-18psi?

I figure that a positive displacement pump like this (vane?) will spin at the same speed and deliver the same volume, but have less work to do pushing against a lower output pressure.

Thanks Tom Thanks Jim...........  to my knowledge installer did not remove couch since the new floor stops under the couch where the plasticised support starts...........  sorry ca't be more precise, but I'm sure the couch will have to come off now.

L

I consider the at  rest voltage to determine where the ags start voltage should be . If you remove the loads when you hit say 11.6v then observe where the voltage recovers to possibly 12.2 to 12.4 . You can then set the start voltage so the ags starts when it should with out starting too early unecessarily. Those observations no doubt at different in different units.I also use my victron system to monitor start and house batteries directly too as an ags start voltage directly. My ags and inverter are xantrex and likely are a little different.

I am considering attaching a remote reading voltage meter at the generator starter or just volt meter that cable to establish voltage drop both static and under starting load. Just for knowledge sake. If the gen does not start I could do a battery cross start tie or start the motorhome momentarily to do so. 
lots of options .

I went with this unit as it took all the guess work out and kept the OEM filters in place.

Repair Door Scissor Hinge
Rocketman3 18 hours ago