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ABS 07 Signature

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ABS light on so I followed the blink code retrieval procedure in the Owner manual.  I get 12 blinks followed by 2, then 12 followed by 1.

If I have the correct manual and I'm interpreting it correctly the codes are:

12 1 There is a short between the release solenoid and supply voltage Left Rear Rear Axle Valve (page 34)
12 2 There is a short between the release solenoid and ground

From the descriptions my first thought would be a bad ABS sensor on left rear.  Then I looked at Pg 34 which appears to be about the connectors to the pressure modulator valve.   (The wiring diagram I have doesn't tewll me where these connectors are located. )

What is most likely to have gone bad?  Should I start at the wiring to the ABS sensor at the left rear... or at the PMV? ... or elsewhere in wiring harness?

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I don't know what ABS system you have but I learned to trust my error codes, they were always right in my case. If it does not say wheel sensor, it's not it. If it says 'short', I unplug the cable and see if it remains or changes to 'open'. That tells me whether to check the cable or the part.

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My 06 Dynasty came to me with the ABS light on the dash. It is off generally for the first 5-10 miles or so than it pops on. There have been less than a handful of times where it hasn't come on at all during that segment of driving.

It hasn't been high on my priority list to investigate but will have to do it some day. Not too worried about it as most of my driving is done where it really not needed.

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Wondering if the BlinkCode chart I used was the correct one.  Had a mechanic connect diagnostic computer today and he did not get the fault I posted above.  Instead his showed a brake light switch fault so I'm thinking that I used th wrong chart. (???) My air system diagram shows there are two brake switches up front, see below.  (Curiously only the brake lights on the upper taillights work.)

Now I need to test to see which one... maybe replace both.  (???)



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YES...  TEST each switch.  The terminals are NOT critical....except to label one LEFT and the other RIGHT or label the switches A and B and then the harness/wires for each.  

OK....KNOWING how to test them and the pressures is critical.  I did some searching of the posts.

Here is one that might be the best...  Read my comments.  Read Frank McElroy's. ESPECIALLY FRANK...  The switches are supposedly in Parallel and if SO, then unless the Tech had a super sniffer, how did he determine if one was bad.  If one was bad, I THINK, then the other working...  The Downstream signal would be the same...  SO, I am NOT saying the tech is wrong... but from what I read....and that is from what I thought....so I did the searching...  I am a little dubious of such.

Unfortunately, sometimes folks get erronious INFO or misunderstand and don't complete their own troubleshooting and the "Throw $$ at it and it'll FIX ER"  That is becoming an issue.  Case in point.  Member THOUGHT based on all he read....bad Board on his generator.  Suggestions... BUY a new Board ($1.600) or a Refurbished.  He ordered a returnable Refurbished ($800).  NOPE  Board was GOOD....and the "shifting error codes" pointed to issues with the Mechanical Gen Set (brushes and such).  BUT, at least he didn't spend a fortune and is now diagnosing the CORRECT component(S) and then going to repair...

Several of the folks have found that it is a SIMPLE issue.  They pull the terminals and then replug and reseat a time or two.

NEXT.  Turn OFF BOTH House and Chassis Banks.

Then disconnect the Positive from the Battery banks.....you want NO voltage.  Cover up or disconnect the solar.  Let it SIT for an hour or so.  Then reconnect batteries...  Then turn on the switches....  That has reset a lot of "funky" ones.

The other questions come up..  Does your Cruise Control disengage as it should?

As far as the lights..  I don't quite understand the UPPER ONES.  Do you mean the TailLight Brake Switches as compared the SINGLE (called Cyclops or Center Brake or if you are a gear head...."Liddy Light".

I would want to know the overall symptoms and then....go from there.  Remember MOST of these switches are  0 - 5 PSI or so....

I'm having a bit of an issue wrapping my head around one switch is bad....

Let us know...

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=switch abs&quick=1&type=forums_topic&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy


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  • 4 weeks later...

Sort of an update: 

My upper brake lights are Now on whenever the engine is running or IGN is on.  THis started right as I began a trip.  Before this the lower brake lights weren't working and I thought it might be bulbs; not unsure.

The two "pressure switches" from the above picture read Infinity on an ohm meter whether the brake pedal is pressed or not.  I removed wires from each amd measured voltages,  Zero with IGN off and 5.45v with IGN ON.

I was guessing these are associated with the braking system and were the brake light switches from the diagram below the picture, which comes from a Monaco air system diagram.  Not sure now.  Disconnecting didn't change the ABS light which is also on so I think these may be related.

At Josams for alignment and some other chassis work.  Hoping they can solve this dilemma.  




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Note to @Tom Cherry,  I am confused about this, also.  If the switches are in parallel, then only one would need to be working for brake lights to go on.  The upper brake/taillights, on each side, and the center "cyclops light" are now on whenever IGN is on.  The (upside down) lower ones are now never on even when brake is pressed. (I'm told they are from an early 2000s Chevvy pickup).  Pictures below.

IGN ON (only):  Top bulb lights on each side plus cyclops in middle


Headlight switch ON (only):  All tail light bulbs light, noticeably dinmmer than brake light...


Headlight switch ON and brakes applied:  All tail light bulbs light, Brake Lights on top.


Headlight switch and IGN on:  


It appears that upper brake lights (only) light with either ign on or brake application.  I can see filaments lit for every light which shows as "on" in pictures.  Apparently the Taillights work normally.

Not sure what the cause is.  Would sure help to know which of the pressure switches(?) in first post are associated with brakes.


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6 hours ago, Ivan K said:

The pancake type switches in your picture are low pressure brake switches, normally open on our rig, the cylinder type are cruise cancel, normally closed.

So itf I understand correctly, those are the ones controlling brake lights (?) ..  If they're in parallel, (per Tom's post) just one shorted out could cause brake lights to be staying on???



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David Pratt helped me enormously this morning!

Following David's advice, I removed the 15amp fuse labelled "brake light" and bingo! brake lights went out and stayed out with IGN on. I changed the old relay, guessing it was stuck, then put the fuse back. Turned the key on again and the brake lights were still out. 

Thought I had it ... then, before buttoning up. I decided to push the 15a fuse in slightly to seat it ... brake lights came on again.  Wiggled the fuse and the lights went off. So it sounds like a bad board.
But now I know the problem. Kudos to Dave!
12:28 PM·


Note to admin or moderator: 

Initially, I thought the ABS-Fault and the Brake-Light issue were related.  Now I am convinced they are not.  Sorry for conflating the two topics, so if you think it's best, split it into two threads.

STatus now: ABS fault light still on... and brake lights are off with key on unless brake pedal is pressed.

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