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2007 HR Knight. House battery bank questions.


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The Inverter/Charger is what charges the House Batteries.  That can be powered from either Shore Power or the Generator.  

Monaco was not consistent with which battery bank the generator started from, and there is still ongoing opinions as to which bank it "should" start from.  I've provided my opinion before, but to answer your question, the only real way is to turn off the battery disconnect switch for one of the banks, and see if the generator starts, if not (assuming the batteries and connections are good), that is the bank the generator starts.  

  -Rick N.

  

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to 2007 HR Knight. House battery bank questions.
1 hour ago, rvendramin said:

What charges the house batteries? Does the generator start off the house batteries or the chassis batteries?

On my coach the house batteries get a low amp charge from the engine alternator.  I can leave with 80% house SOC and be 100% in a short period (30 min?), but if I leave with 50 or 60% SOC it might be an hour before house batts show 100%.  This is measured with an inexpensive meter, one for chassis (left) and one for house (right). - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8S9PCX/  I set them up to view while driving.

BatteryMonitor2LR.jpg.ece04643a961240a0e4677e5e405664c.jpg

As for which bank starts my generator I have no idea (probably house). 

- bob

 

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1 hour ago, rvendramin said:

What charges the house batteries? Does the generator start off the house batteries or the chassis batteries?

Moderator EDIT.  Title was edited for info and clarity.

OK…

You have great answers….to summarize and also help you find the information next time, we always hope that before a topic is posted, than an owner reviews their. Owner’s manual.  

Sections 8 and 9 provide a lot more than just what you asked.  You wil learn a lot….and don’t be discouraged if it all sort of “blows your mind”….it happens to most….and even now, I still learn nuances that I didn’t know or sometimes correct a misunderstanding.

The inverter charges the House Bank.  But, how this all happens and the “OMG”….no outlet power or lights or such is a common question.  So read about how the inverter works and actually take the manual and identify the components and understand how to “read or program” things like the Inverter remote.  

ANOTHER valuable resource is the SALES BROCHURE…

You can download the manual as well as the Sales Brochure here.

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/

OK….quickly….from the Sales Brochure we find out a LOT.  The end has ever section or system.  And based on going over prints for others, I’m pretty confident….your Genny starts off the House.  Rick IS correct….Monaco flipped and flopped.. The LOWER ends from Camelot on down, in 2007 were HOUSE GENNY CRANK.  The Dynasty and up were CHASSIS GENNY CRANK.  Rick’s “no right or wrong“ is correct but since at least 2007 (maybe a year or so earlier) and until Monaco (Navistar owned after bankruptcy in 2009) was sold to REV circa 2013/14….this is almost iron clad.  BUT  one never knows….nor does one know if a Previous owner, or an owner like Ben, chose to swap…  it is done.

OK….next up….the charging….I got off track due to looking for a link and giving you a resource.  You have, most likely, a Magnum inverter.  Read the section 8.  If you find the Inverter Remote….odds are….it says MAGNUM.

An Inverter is actually a dual purpose device.  It supplies 120 VAC power from the house 12 VDC bank.).  It is ALSO a CHARGER….that charges the House bank. So, in your case….when you run the gnerator….or are on AC (Pedestal) power….the Inverter’s “CHARGING” section is ON….unless you turn it off and most never do..  SO it charges your House Batteries.

When you drive, the engine alternator charged the CHASSIS Bank. If you carefully READ the charging section 8…Page 155.  It states….when driving….The Alternator will CHARGE the House…Conversely….Pedestal Power or Genny will CHARGE the Chassis.  That is called BiDirectional charging….a MUST.

OK….enough “lessons” for today.

BUT….when a new or inexperienced member starts asking questions about electrical and such….we have to post a STANDARD and IMPORTANT warning.

THERE is a KNOWN SAFETY DEFECT in the OEM Systems.  Look on page 155.  If your rig has the IOTA 50-R Automatic Transfer Switch, it MUST be replaced.  It is defective and has the potential for a FIRE or other damages.  Your coach is an “orphan”.  Navistar bought Monaco in bankruptcy.  They have NO LEGAL Obligation to recall MONACO installed items.  They recalled all 2010 models that had this switch and replaced them.  If yours has this switch (see picture), it is DANGEROUS.  We recommend that you use the Motor Home sparingly….and immediately rectify.  Many good ATS out there.  The most popular “stocked” switch is the ESCO LPT50BRD….AKA “LYGHT” ATS.  Many have researched and selected other brands and models. You can do a search here    Use IOTA and click on EVERYWHERE…..then select TOPICS.  Pages and pages of every post.  The two sentences that I wrote sum it up.

PLEASE verify which brand you have and if IOTA…be aware of the potential danger.

Good luck….welcome aboard…

 

 

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3 hours ago, rvendramin said:

What charges the house batteries? Does the generator start off the house batteries or the chassis batteries?

Those are questions that technically only you can answer. The reason why I say that is Monaco had no "standard practices" that they followed.

In regards to the generator, a simple test to determine house or chassis is to remove the main positive cable from your chassis battery, then try to start the generator. If it starts then you will know that your house battery bank is used to start the generator. If not, then reconnect the positive cable of your chassis battery and try the generator once again. If it starts, you will know that it uses your chassis battery to start the generator.

As far as what charges the house batteries, the basic answer is your Charger/Inverter will charge your house battery bank when hooked to shore power or when the generator is running. However, depending on how sophisticated your specific charging circuit is depends on whether your alternator on your engine will keep the house batteries charged while driving. And vice-versa, the same things is true whether your chassis batteries are charged when hooked to shore power or have the generator running. You would have to know exactly what you have for a charging circuit to determine that.

Depends on your coach and depends on what Monaco decided to do that day.

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Great and simple solution Richard.

Then use a voltmeter to measure which batteries are getting charged. Try this with engine running/off, shoreline connected and off, same with generator. 

Add these notes to your owners manual as backup and post the page number right on the front of the manual for quick reference in the future. Knowing your own system is better than any manual that was not updated correctly or owner modified.

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On 5/8/2024 at 7:12 AM, MyronTruex said:

Great and simple solution Richard.

Then use a voltmeter to measure which batteries are getting charged. Try this with engine running/off, shoreline connected and off, same with generator. 

Add these notes to your owners manual as backup and post the page number right on the front of the manual for quick reference in the future. Knowing your own system is better than any manual that was not updated correctly or owner modified.

Yes…excellent advice.  The test will also tell you what type of “charging system” you have.  ODDS ARE…based on the year, you have a FULL BIRD or BiDirectional System.  Suggest you make a chart.  I sent a PDF of one recently to a member and he used it.  Not labor intensive.  All you need is a VOM and there are notes on HOW to test and where. His data showed immediately what he had….a FULL BIRD… However the data or  the voltage readings, as Myron suggested, also demonstrated that it was wired properly and was working properly.

He SUSPECTED such, but was uncertain as to HOW to test. Now he knows and is confident that his system is also 100% functional…and also knows HOW to test if he has issues in the future.

 

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Hi, I like the idea of those little battery monitors that Bob, (cbr046) added, I would like a$! u me that one could find an existing coach and chassis power source in the front to use? Something else to add to the list..

Cheers

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4 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Hi, I like the idea of those little battery monitors that Bob, (cbr046) added, I would like a$! u me that one could find an existing coach and chassis power source in the front to use? Something else to add to the list..

Cheers

Your front run bay should have both.

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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Your front run bay should have both.

Word of caution.  Be CAREFUL where you pick the attaching point.  If you pick the downstream point on a heavy load draw, like a mini breaker for a hydraulic motor, then, the meter will read lower….and possibly drive you crazy. You need to look at the prints and trace the cables.  Odds are you have 4/0 (0000) Cables from the House and Chassis banks running up, as Ben says. If you install a large crimped ring terminal on each stud. 

NOW…You have a BOOST solenoid….maybe, due to the vintage of your year.  That solenoid is often “generically or incorrectly” as THE BIG BOY. A REAL BIG BOY is an Intellitec solenoid.  Some boost solenoids were White Rodgers Or Trombetta.  NOW….Time to cozy up with section 9 of your Manual.  Will wager that you will find a description and a diagram or illustration of your BOOST.  Has TWO large studs.  THERE is where you out the METER LEADS.  The negatives goes to Ground.  TURN OFF both Battery Disconnects.  Then turn on Chassis. Measure stud to ground on each stud of the Boost solenoid….the one with POWER….CHASSIS.  Label that.  Label the other as HOUSE.  This will save you from “wondering” when folks tell you to measure or troubleshoot…

NOW you know.  Have at it…this is the CORRECT WAY…

 

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14 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Your front run bay should have both.

Post a picture of the front run bay and you should get some precise answers as to where to connect. 

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Hi again, I will attach a picture of the front electrical, there was one wire added since pic was taken to provide a new 12v source for the HWH hydraulic motor solenoid, thankyou Terry R for your help there. it went to a spare spade on the lower row of fuses.

Advice will be appreciated

Trevor

 

FrontElectrical.jpg

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27 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Hi again, I will attach a picture of the front electrical, there was one wire added since pic was taken to provide a new 12v source for the HWH hydraulic motor solenoid, thankyou Terry R for your help there. it went to a spare spade on the lower row of fuses.

Advice will be appreciated

Trevor

 

FrontElectrical.jpg

SIMPLE.  ODDS ARE.  The TWO loser Studs in the right sides run DIRECTLY from each bank.  TURN off each Bank.  SHOULD have NO Voltage (to GROUND) on either.  THEN turn on the HOUSE.  FIND the one with VOLTAGE.  SHOULD be ONLY one.  Put a BIG H under or near it.  TURN OFF the HOUSE....then ON the Chassis....and TEST.  HOUSE should be DEAD.  The OTHER ONE should have Voltage.  Put a BIG C on or near it.

This is where you attach your POSITIVES from the remote meters.  IMPORTANT... I'd use a LARGE ring Terminal and it would be a RED (insulation) one.  Measure the Diameter of the stud.  THEY MAKE THEM.  Use #12 WIRE and run that to the Remotes.  Use a Ratcheting CRIMPER and use only CRIMPLED connections....the WAY Monaco did it.

The GROUND can be ONE WIRE...  You Do NOT NEED TWO WIRES.  I SUSPECT that the Aluminum (silver) terminal strip in the UPPER right is a GROUND BAR STRIP.  Use it as you GROUND as you verify which is CHASSIS and HOUSE.  IF SO...that is NOW your GROUND point.  3 WIRES to the front...that is all you need....

I would RUN #12...in case I EVER needed PURE HOT Voltage.  Then you can tap into them and put a inline fused lead off them.  COSTS LITTLE and you can run 3 easily.  Use Zip Ties for neatness.

THAT's what I see and SUSPECT.  2 MINUTES with a VOM will verify.  Please do that and advise.

 

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Hi, and thankyou Tom, it has been cool and wet today and Bella is in storage, but will be there in the next few days. I am thinking that you meant th 2 lower studs on the LHS, or am I missing something. As you said, a few minutes with that VOM and I will know. Back when I rode old motorcycles they received a little digi voltmeter, charging systems were very marginal and it was good to know when to turn off the headlight and head back home..

Trevor

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Hi, finally visited Bella in storage, did the check for power on the FRB 3/8in power terminals, still not sure...  Both battery disconnects "off", the inner lower stud had 14V, which could only be solar charging? The other 3 were all 0Volts, the top 2 are connected together with a copper strip. Turning on the House switch brought them to life and the chassis switch dropped that 14V down to 12+V.  I will do this again to verify...

We had not started the gennie since last October, but happy that it fired right up from the drivers seat... 6 months and sitting 2 weeks without shore power.. lots to do in the house and garden first..  Then to get the door awning fabric off and repaired or replaced, some paint and clearcoat repair and paint on the roof to stop the white streaks..

Regards, Trevor & Laura

 

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