Monacoers Daily News
Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily News for *|date|*
To view this on the web click here: *|weblink|*. To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
Hello Guest,
Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
On 5/19/2024 at 4:03 PM, Tom Cherry said:Do the UNTHINKABLE...call Trojan. What I posted is what they told me. You can ask them about Ben's comment or such. They will agree, disagree or debunk.
I have NEVER heard that...but I focus on Trojan.
@Frank McElroy and asking that this be added to our files.
That's it....will be interesting to hear what Trojan comes back with. NOW DON'T BE SURPRISED...In the past the tech support folks said when directly ASKED.... NEVER equalize FLA Trojans....unless they are so far gone....that will be the LAST resort. If you read the guideline....there are SPECIFIC tests and criteria....but not a BLAND... Don't EQUALIZE or DO EQUALIZE...
The debate will rage....
HRENDEAVOR40
Thanks for the replies everyone. It ended up being a wheel bearing. When it was cold it would have zero play. I drove it for 15 minutes and immediately jacked it up and felt play in the wheel.
zmotorsports
9 minutes ago, HRENDEAVOR40 said:Thanks for the replies everyone. It ended up being a wheel bearing. When it was cold it would have zero play. I drove it for 15 minutes and immediately jacked it up and felt play in the wheel.
Personally, I have not seen a wheel bearing create a "thumping" noise, usually they are more of a growling and rough when they go bad.
Are you saying there was axial play or radial play?
A wheel bearing should not have any radial play but there should be some axial play or clearance. Specification is .001"-.005" of axial clearance when the bearings are installed and the final torque applied to the axle nuts.
bryan browne
1-1/2" 90° Flexible Elbow Blue fin from supplyhouse.com
wamcneil
These should be in our parts list now!
Mack P/N 25121334
But… that was universal part is a lot cheaper…
saflyer
19 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:It depends. You need to be able to let it run. Strange things happen. Air in the cold water line….will take a while to expel. The bladder in the tank.
Difficult without being there to perform all the tests and answer every scenario. IF you have good flow, run the pump. Go home. Experiment there. You may be fine….just the way things happen.
Make sure you understand how most of us do it. YES, folks use second filters before the white fresh hose. Some don’t. Anytime you out in an additional filter…pressure drop and flow drop. If that is tolerable…OK…not…don’t over filter snd use the preferred or the right filter based on the general consensus.
Will do some more playing with it at home.
Thanks
b_faster
FWIW, My 2000 Windsor will light the "Liddy Light" on PAC brake activation, the brake lights on service brake activation. That is how my unit was built. It through me off the first time I saw "brake lights" in the rear camera on PAC brake activation, then I had someone follow me for verification. In the rear camera I can see the brake light intensity change significantly when I apply the service brake.
My Toad is service brake activated by air and my trailer is wired to a Prodigy brake controller from the RV, I only use brake light signal for lights.
RonCindy
Thank you Jim and Bryan for the coupling and elbow suggestions. I may go with one of those depending if I can get it in this tight space. I plan on evaluating this problem again today plus check to see if I can move the pipe that goes into the gray tank, it has a couple of pipe clamps on it where it goes into the gray tank.
RonCindy, 03 Dynasty
Brad Loehr
On 5/18/2024 at 7:11 AM, Rocketman3 said:I am very involved on the DIYSolarForum, and on that site Renogy does not have a good reputation. It seems they remarket other manufacturers products. Some are good others not so much… Their customer service and technical knowledge seem poor
As of right now I have to say that Renogy customer service has been exceptional with me so far. They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable with all of my questions about their products on the spec out of my LFP conversion components. I am looking at getting a 50 Amp DC to DC converter with MPTT, four 100 Ah LFP CORE batteries, 300 Amp smart battery shunt, One CORE monitor system with Bluetooth module, and a remote ambient temp sensor, smart relay, and smart 110 volt plug for automation for different scenes to monitor and control battery cabinet temperature while in the Baja. We will see about longevity and after sales service once I place the order but for now everything seems like Renogy has good support. I have used a Renogy solar charge controller with Bluetooth for many years and it works the way it should so I think I am okay with working with them.
As for forums and complaints, you have to filter the people that self induce their issues and or do not have the skillset to rectify their problems. It seems that complaints are the loudest with people that do not know what they are doing.
As for Magnum customer support, it has been really poor in my experience on trying to find out the details of their inverters and LFP charging. They are very slow to respond and it seems like they do not know their product 100% which I would not expect. I can find most of my information I need when doing a fair bit of research on their website but crucial details on the how specifically does the charging work for CC-CV, Gel, Custom, and LFP on the inverter versions. I am still trying to get detailed information from them and see what the differences are on battery types and how they inverters respond. I am probably just going to go to the coach and physically measure the current ab voltage for the parameters I want to see.
More to come...
Tom Cherry
4 minutes ago, Brad Loehr said:As of right now I have to say that Renogy customer service has been exceptional with me so far. They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable with all of my questions about their products on the spec out of my LFP conversion components. I am looking at getting a 50 Amp DC to DC converter with MPTT, four 100 Ah LFP CORE batteries, 300 Amp smart battery shunt, One CORE monitor system with Bluetooth module, and a remote ambient temp sensor, smart relay, and smart 110 volt plug for automation for different scenes to monitor and control battery cabinet temperature while in the Baja. We will see about longevity and after sales service once I place the order but for now everything seems like Renogy has good support. I have used a Renogy solar charge controller with Bluetooth for many years and it works the way it should so I think I am okay with working with them.
As for forums and complaints, you have to filter the people that self induce their issues and or do not have the skillset to rectify their problems. It seems that complaints are the loudest with people that do not know what they are doing.
As for Magnum customer support, it has been really poor in my experience on trying to find out the details of their inverters and LFP charging. They are very slow to respond and it seems like they do not know their product 100% which I would not expect. I can find most of my information I need when doing a fair bit of research on their website but crucial details on the how specifically does the charging work for CC-CV, Gel, Custom, and LFP on the inverter versions. I am still trying to get detailed information from them and see what the differences are on battery types and how they inverters respond. I am probably just going to go to the coach and physically measure the current ab voltage for the parameters I want to see.
More to come...
Great that you are doing a deep dive and deciding what is best for you, what you understand and also appreciate the complexity of Lithium installation.
As to Magnum, there has been turnover in the Tech support. There used to be at least 4. Now there are 2. They don’t offer the “OK, in our experience” support that they did a few years ago. I had to tell them that there was ONE VERSION of the remotes that actually let you program or take over setting the 5 KNOB AGS. The 2008 Dynasties required manual knob settings. Same AGS in the 2009 Camelot, the Remote “overrode” the knobs….you set all the parameters from the remote.
MY TAKE….Magnum is the workhorse of the RV & Marine Industry. That’s what they understand and flooded/AGM’s are predominantly the OEM batteries. They are, as you point out, slow…and probably technologically behind. From being involved with “buggy whip” companies and understanding the corporate and marketing mindset…. Their focus is on what they are selling and that demographic. Lithium batteries are a different breed of cats. We have a lot of expertise here.
Whether there is any economic benefit is something that will be debated. If one wants more advanced technology and is prepared to do the research and understands that today’s Lithiums are not as robust as Flooded or AGM’s…but they design the systems and purchase the components to do a complete upgrade…then they will reap the benefits. I, and others…with way more experience and electronics knowledge! “FEEL” that we are satisfied with our Trojans and Magnums and such.
BUT…if we decided to go the Lithium route…we would abandon Magnum and then gut and do it right. We also don’t overtax our electrical systems and feel that 2000 watts, even with the addition of a residential refrigerator, will still be OK.
NOW…a little know factoid…. I THINK, and just verified. A Magnum 2800 watt will invert and provide 2,800 watts. Where a 2000 is just that. However, the total watts for BOTH is 3,900. That is limited by 30amp circuit breaker(s). The single in - dual out and dual in - dual out is the same…. Just the way the power is distributed.
THUS…the only advantage of a 2800 over a 2000….800 more watts on the inverter. BUT for the MH’s “NOT INVERTING” AC capacity…same. As the 30 amps come from the main panel and then is redistributed via the Magnum. Just because there are DUAL IN breakers…there is NOT 60 amps…and TYPICALLY, if one does not have the Dynasty sub panel….then rewiring for a Dual IN is a bit challenging.
However, if one puts in a 2800, and there was no subpanel, like the Camelot and down….one will have to add one.
Keep digging. Keep reading. That’s the only way to protect your investment…
Tom Cherry
39 minutes ago, b_faster said:FWIW, My 2000 Windsor will light the "Liddy Light" on PAC brake activation, the brake lights on service brake activation. That is how my unit was built. It through me off the first time I saw "brake lights" in the rear camera on PAC brake activation, then I had someone follow me for verification. In the rear camera I can see the brake light intensity change significantly when I apply the service brake.
My Toad is service brake activated by air and my trailer is wired to a Prodigy brake controller from the RV, I only use brake light signal for lights.
Yes to all you said. One question…for clarification…. “Exactly” where does the Prodigy controller “receive” the Brake Light signal? As Richard and countless ofter pre 2005 and also prewired “trailer brake” owners have found out. The pre 2005 had to have a conversion relay added to take the ground (switdhed) signal from the service brake pedal and convert it to 12 VDC POSITIVE.
If the Prodigy is receiving a “bulb or filament” signal, then, like Todd, that is incorrect and will cause issues. The Brake Controllers depend on a push in the pedal positive signal,
Todd’s existing DEMCO and the wiring diagram show exactly that. The flaw….as you pointed out…Monaco lights up the brake lights from the PAC. Thus the normal “trailer/Toad” light signal comes on and stays on and the DEMCO thinks….service brake on. It was never designed or wired to work this way.
There are two options as pointed out to adapt the STANDARD DEMCO so it will function as designed….
Thanks…
RVSSNAKE
On 5/13/2024 at 7:40 PM, Dr4Film said:Take apart the transmission output speed sensor connector, clean both ends with a good contact cleaner then reconnect. That connector is located at the rear of the transmission. Check the manual for exact location.
You can also do a diagnostics check on your Allison keypad to verify the error code, output speed sensor.
You were correct, it was the sensor.
I let the shop know to look at that sensor first thing the next morning and that is what they looked at right after replacing the vacuum line.
It was the issue.
They took it out and cleaned it off really good as well at the connector.
Put it back in and all was good again.
They did suggest replacing it due to its age.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Dr4Film
Glad that it wasn't a bigger problem for you!
Safe travels!
How do I add a 2-in abs threaded connector to a black tank.
JOHN McCLURE
If you can, swing up the side panel and see if there is plenty of room above your black tank ( as there is on my 05 diplomat ). I cut a 8 in square hole and used the piece of plywood as a plug and screws with wing nuts. It is easy to take a hose and flush out the tank. end of any problems.
Kenster
I'm assuming you insert the screws from the inside pointed out, and apply a little silicone between the tank and the wood?
Brad Loehr
3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:I had to tell them that there was ONE VERSION of the remotes that actually let you program or take over setting the 5 KNOB AGS. The 2008 Dynasties required manual knob settings. Same AGS in the 2009 Camelot, the Remote “overrode” the knobs….you set all the parameters from the remote.
Funny that you say that. I have the dial/knob (non network) AGS module and when pressing the test button the generator starts up properly. However my voltage to start the generator setting does not work. I have a ME-RC50 old remote version 2.8 and again I can test the generator start digitally through the remote and it starts up fine. Settings for the AGS are available in this remote but once again voltage setting to start the generator does not work. I have to troubleshoot which settings are controlling the generator in the near future. I am assuming it is the dial/knob style AGS module that will override the remote controls settings. Any experience/issues with this?
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Have converted to vivtron and required a new AGS . The existing one works fine and is offered for $75 plus shipping.
dennis.mcdonaugh
14 hours ago, Ivan K said:A real Hadley is more expensive and there are cheaper knockoffs, like $49 on Amazon. A real Hadley would have the name as part of the casting, not printed on it.
Yes, the one I took off was a Hadley, it had the logo and part number cast into the surface of the valve. But, who knows what you're getting when you order one? I've seen them from $56 to $310 on-line everywhere from Temu to honest to goodness truck parts houses. About half of them use the same pictures and most of the others aren't good enough to tell if its real or not.
This one from Fleet Pride is a genuine Hadley valve. You can see the logo just below the top mounting bolt. Under the Hadley logo it says "Grandville Mi". I don't see a part number on it.
Catching Up on Maintenance is Expensive
dennis.mcdonaugh
I finally finished my to-do list with the exception of the air filter. I've had a hard time finding one at a reasonable price, but supposedly have one on back order. We'll see.
The last thing I did was rebuild the air dryer. The last time I did it was 6 years ago when it starting purging air every 5 minutes. I had to tear into to find the issue and it turned out to be a small piece of rubber from the turbo saver valve got caught in the purge valve. This time was preventive maintenance since having an air issue on the road isn't fun.
We've only put about 20K on the coach in that time. Unsurprisingly, it wasn't very dirty inside and all the rubber parts looked good. I've replaced the desiccant cannister and Coalescing filter once since the last rebuild.
I removed the dryer from under the coach so I could rebuild it on the bench. The directions tell you to do it on the vehicle, but I think that's meant for a truck and not a motor home. Its much easier to clean, lube and rebuild it off the coach. Besides the two filters, I replaced the one way check valve, turbo saver, pressure relief valve, purge valve and purge valve shield.
The line from the governor and the outlet to the air tanks both had quick connect fittings that were difficult to remove the last time I did this. I reused them and they were next to impossible to get loose this time so I just cut them off. They were both elbow fittings so I couldn't unscrew them with the hoses attached. I replaced the push fittings with compression fittings so the next time they will be easier to remove.
Heliotrope RV-30D Solar Charge Controller
Malcolm
Looking for a Heliotrope RV-30D Solar Charge Controller for a 2001 Monaco Signature.
jacwjames
These have been long obsolete.
What problems are you having?
rbeachy206
Well I had a call from Trojan today. I can't say I was terribly impressed with his apparent technical knowledge, but he did confirm the need to exercise them once or twice a year, and that failing to do so will diminish their useful life. He didn't think it mattered whether I do it now or wait a few months. Since we're mostly on AC power I think I'll do several cycles right away to get off to a good start.
I also noticed the 80% mention in the manual.
96 EVO
What 'I' do, if I'm doing a boondocking weekend or week, is I'll put 3 cycles on the batteries before leaving home.
I use my coffee maker to draw them down to about 12.0V, then fully charge them.
This is a DC 90A load for about 6min at a time, with a cooldown period for my inverter between brews.
Some think this is too high amp draw, but, it's been working for me!
waterskier_1
Just for clarification, this is an Auto Temp Start (ATS - not to be confused with Auto Transfer Switch), which is uniquely different from what most of us call an Auto Gen Start (AGS). The ATS starts the Generator when a certain temperature is reached. It is typically used to start the generator when pets are left in the coach, but can be used for any reason that you don't want the inside of the coach to get too hot. Most use it incase of shore power failure, since for it to cool the coach, the A/C would have to be turned on and set to a temp below the set temp of this device. An AGS unit typically starts the Generator when the batteries are lower than a predetermined value.
This device can still be used with Victron equipment - I have one in my coach. But it will not start the generator on low battery conditions, only when the coach inside has exceeded the set temperature conditions.
-Rick N.
Tom Cherry
26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:Just for clarification, this is an Auto Temp Start (ATS - not to be confused with Auto Transfer Switch), which is uniquely different from what most of us call an Auto Gen Start (AGS). The ATS starts the Generator when a certain temperature is reached. It is typically used to start the generator when pets are left in the coach, but can be used for any reason that you don't want the inside of the coach to get too hot. Most use it incase of shore power failure, since for it to cool the coach, the A/C would have to be turned on and set to a temp below the set temp of this device. An AGS unit typically starts the Generator when the batteries are lower than a predetermined value.
This device can still be used with Victron equipment - I have one in my coach. But it will not start the generator on low battery conditions, only when the coach inside has exceeded the set temperature conditions.
-Rick N.
Good catch..thanks for the Clarification…
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, rbeachy206 said:Well I had a call from Trojan today. I can't say I was terribly impressed with his apparent technical knowledge, but he did confirm the need to exercise them once or twice a year, and that failing to do so will diminish their useful life. He didn't think it mattered whether I do it now or wait a few months. Since we're mostly on AC power I think I'll do several cycles right away to get off to a good start.
I also noticed the 80% mention in the manual.
My vote is no. The bank has a finite number of cycles. The bank can be depleted until there is a concern about having the capacity to crank the genny, assuming that the house bank is what is starting the Genny. If one has the Genny start from the Chassis, then theoretically, one could do maybe 65% or so.
Ben’s ( @96 EVO ) load is twice the recommended 10% rate. NOW, if he waits and lets the batteries recover and the average draw is 45 Amps per hour (90 Amps for 30 minutes and 0 amps for 30 minutes), that meets the recommended drain.
A 450 Watt Lowes or other Quartz Halogen work light works well…and is a constant, as specified, drain. Whatever you do, other than throw several hundred amps….then stop and repeat, will work.
The Trojan answer is consistent with what they told me.
NOW….wonder what howl’s I’d get if I revised the “OK to drain to 60/70% SOC if your Chassis starts the Genny?” Odds are….the new bank, properly maintained and exercised will last upwards towards 10 Years…
Rock ON…..
Tom Cherry
4 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:Funny that you say that. I have the dial/knob (non network) AGS module and when pressing the test button the generator starts up properly. However my voltage to start the generator setting does not work. I have a ME-RC50 old remote version 2.8 and again I can test the generator start digitally through the remote and it starts up fine. Settings for the AGS are available in this remote but once again voltage setting to start the generator does not work. I have to troubleshoot which settings are controlling the generator in the near future. I am assuming it is the dial/knob style AGS module that will override the remote controls settings. Any experience/issues with this?
Let me state it different for Clarity. This is based on @Frank McElroy and I comparing notes and experiences as well as, GOD FORBID, reading the Monaco Manual.
In 2008 (Dynasty) the Monaco manual said…. Remote will enable or disable the AGS. BUT, you MUST use the Knobs. Frank has tested that….so we can verify.
In 2009 (Camelot), the Monaco manual said….KNOBS ARE NONFUNCTIONAL….Set parameters from the Remote. I used my AGS a few times and it, as beat I can recall, functioned properly.
THEN….it BROKE. Magnum had me (took 45 minutes) test and troubleshoot the AGS. The “test button” on the AGS would NOT work. If I jumpered the wires on the plug to the AGS, the start and stop functions worked….therefore NOT a wiring issue. But the Remote would not “work it”. They never ONCE, after they saw the Rev Level of the Remote and the Inverter, told me….he DUMMY…the KNOBS have to be set.
NOW….there is NO GUARANTEE on yours….if you had the same remote….rev level as mine….maybe (most likely) it would start when the temp called for it or the voltage dropped.
That also throws in another “wringer”….the rev level of your Modified (I think you have the ME and not the MS).
Bottom line, there was a change somewhere circa 2009. Maybe someone can test and chime in….that change in the remote or maybe an upgrade within the inverter made the knob settings NON FUNCTIONAL. Rarely, do we out 100% stock in the manuals…but both our experiences coincide with the manual’s instructions.
Hope this clears it up….snd I called that out to Magnum and they said… Gee, our stuff says NOPE….hard to argue that a Manufacturer like Monaco would get it 100% wrong…. NOW, the AGS-N was not widely used….and was a more reliable AGS than the 5 KNOB.
BTW….how about 39 posts on this same topic….fixing….and also “how it work”….read on….
Malcolm
Hi Jim. Thanks for the quick reply. The issue is I have lost the display and the ability to check the chassis and house battery voltages. The charge light goes on, but that's it. The display otherwise is blank. I am attaching a picture. Thoughts?
Exercise new FLA house batteries right away?
Frank McElroy
10 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:I scanned the User's guide earlier...but went back and read it again. On page 23, this what it says.
Trojan’s deep-cycle flooded batteries take 50 - 100 cycles to achieve full, peak capacity.
Now, to put that in proper perspective. This does NOT say...you must cycle the batteries for up to 100 times before they are at peak capacity....and DO THIS BEFORE YOU USE THEM.
What Trojan has always told me...
The batteries are assumed to be 100% charged. Put them in and let them charge up. IT IS ASSUMED that the electrolyte level is proper. IF, and a BIG IF, you want to check the Specific Gravity and Voltage, you can do that, but do that before your install. They may be down, a little, but this is normal.
I did reread the manual....which is below. Nothing in there says... "OK...you gotta...".
Remember the comment about PEAK is for the life of the battery. The battery only has a limited number of recharging cycles. The manual states
Do not discharge your battery to more than 80% depth of discharge. This safety factor will eliminate the chance of over-discharging and damaging your battery.
OK....now this will be BLASPHENOUS... There is NOTHING that I read that says that 50% is the ideal discharge level... I did a KEY WORD Search "50". Thirty Seven (37) places in the text that "50" was used....Nothing stated to let them run down to 50%....and that was when you recharged.
I also did a Google Search. Same deal on both initial use and also discharging... Assume they are (NEW) charged...use them. Top off, using a 3 Phase (like our inverters) charger is you want to.
PERSONALLY... this is revolutionary. However, if you sort of back away.... In MH's, we typically or some do (not the Dynasty and up) start the Genny from the HOUSE. Magnum says..."don't go too far down on the AGS...as you need to have adequate storage or power to restart". OF COURSE.
NOW....many might quibble with this...so here is the link to the new (2023) Trojan guideline....
@Frank McElroy and asking that this be added to our files.
That's it....will be interesting to hear what Trojan comes back with. NOW DON'T BE SURPRISED...In the past the tech support folks said when directly ASKED.... NEVER equalize FLA Trojans....unless they are so far gone....that will be the LAST resort. If you read the guideline....there are SPECIFIC tests and criteria....but not a BLAND... Don't EQUALIZE or DO EQUALIZE...
The debate will rage....
This was taken out of page 189 in my Dynasty Owners manual:
"...The working range of a deep cycle battery is between 50 and 100% state of charge (SOC). Deep cycle batteries should not be cycled below 50% state of charge. Discharging a deep cycle battery below 50% state of charge shortens the life of the battery. Deep cycle batteries use an amp hour rating which is usually calculated over a 20 hour discharge interval. For example: A deep cycle battery with a rated capacity of 100 Ahrs. is designed to release current at the rate of 5 Amps per hour. Multiply a 5 Amp load over a 20 hour discharge period equals the rated 100 Ahr. capacity. ..."
At one time I had a chart showing number of discharge cycles based on depth of discharge that backed up the statement in my owners manual but I can't find it. Can you bring the discharge down to 20% - sure - but likely you'll need new batteries sooner. Or if your operating conditions justify it just change over to Lithium. Lithium prices are coming way down.
Here is a link to the 2023 Trojan Users Manual in our files.
Tom Cherry
31 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:This was taken out of page 189 in my Dynasty Owners manual:
"...The working range of a deep cycle battery is between 50 and 100% state of charge (SOC). Deep cycle batteries should not be cycled below 50% state of charge. Discharging a deep cycle battery below 50% state of charge shortens the life of the battery. Deep cycle batteries use an amp hour rating which is usually calculated over a 20 hour discharge interval. For example: A deep cycle battery with a rated capacity of 100 Ahrs. is designed to release current at the rate of 5 Amps per hour. Multiply a 5 Amp load over a 20 hour discharge period equals the rated 100 Ahr. capacity. ..."
At one time I had a chart showing number of discharge cycles based on depth of discharge that backed up the statement in my owners manual but I can't find it. Can you bring the discharge down to 20% - sure - but likely you'll need new batteries sooner. Or if your operating conditions justify it just change over to Lithium. Lithium prices are coming way down.
Here is a link to the 2023 Trojan Users Manual in our files.
TOUCHE!….
I had told DW that I had put out a piece of low hanging fruit and knew exactly WHO was going to pick it. Yes…your manual and probably mine, says 50%.
BUT, as is the policy, always READ the manual(s) and follow the vendor’s advice….from the NEW 2023 Trojan manual, that I forwarded and you put in the files…Thanks….
Do not discharge your battery to more than 80% depth of discharge. This safety factor will eliminate the chance of over-discharging and damaging your battery.
As I stated….there would be a howl…. I think that sometimes the folks rewrite the manuals and do updates….that might not be in accordance with what those of us that have posed questions and got guidance ….and that is contrary to what we were told. I do BELIEVE that Trojan used, generically, a 50% rule. But, the same tech supoort person said….WE DO NOT RECOMMEND EQUALIZATION.
BUT…Trojan did qualify and post the conditions for such….and it was not a “regular PM”, but a OH WELL….WHADDA YOU GOT TO LOSE type of recommendation.
To keep this civil…I think that the 50% rule makes sense. I also doubt that any or us will ever reach the max cycles….BUT…
Trojan is cagey…NO printed life or recharge cycles….depends on “application”
Battery University offers this…
A deep-cycle battery delivers 100–200 cycles before a gradual decline begins. Replacement should occur when the capacity drops to 70 or 80 percent.
NOW…in theory, a full timer, boondocking for say 6 months and recharging every day would only expect 6 months.
MY POINT…one should be more concerned about short cycling or recharging and choose a point that is at least 50%. rather than some of the myths that have been stated here. The recovery voltage or the “after discharge and rest…no load” is the TRUE point…and if that is 50%….then, based on the accuracy of the Magnum equipment and the voltage monitoring, I think that 11.7/.8 UNDER LOAD…is the proper value. .when in theory….the AGS will start is more realistic
NOW…if one rarely uses the AGS and does casual boondocking……it really doesn’t matter…..
Unfortunately, due to lack of understanding, since our founders launched this saite…the old set it to 12.0 or 12.1 rule of thumb is now incorrect and it takes a short course in Battery 101, see the file, to properly understand.
We totally agree….but there is NO HARD and FAST value to set. One has to discharge and then monitor the recovery voltage is the TRUE SOC…and one needs to set 0.1 VDC lower….this is also verified by Magnum…
Thanks for getting the files updated….
96 EVO
23 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
A deep-cycle battery delivers 100–200 cycles before a gradual decline begins. Replacement should occur when the capacity drops to 70 or 80 percent.
Total guess!
I'm betting nobody has ever counted the cycles they got out of their FLA batteries, and how deep they discharged them each cycle!
I got 9.5yrs out of a bank of cheap Interstate 6V's, and could have kept running them.
Rarely ran them below 12.0V (50%) resting.
Tom Cherry
1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:Total guess!
I'm betting nobody has ever counted the cycles they got out of their FLA batteries, and how deep they discharged them each cycle!
I got 9.5yrs out of a bank of cheap Interstate 6V's, and could have kept running them.
Rarely ran them below 12.0V (50%) resting.
No argument from me. Folks often get long life. The point…
Exercising is good….for you and me and batteries.
Frequency depends on the state of my 79 YO body…same here.
If you RARELY exercise the batteries and and your total run downs or discharges are below 200…odds are..since you did it….you’re fine. Now…remember this.
The rule, if you don’t dry camp and do the exercises say every 4 months….that is 3 X per year. You need to do it 3 cycles….that is 9 cycles per year…or 90 (10X 9) for the life of batteries. COOL.
BUT, if you go out and boondock for several days….and insist on recharging at a higher SOC…then, you are doing needless recharges.
Take your magnum… I’ll bet that if you discharged to 12.0….and monitored at the battery….UNDER LOAD…when the voltage on your DVM is 11.9 or fluctuating between 12.0 and 11.9….THEN … Wait…disconnect jumpers. Wait the prescribed 30 minutes…. The recovery voltage…or the discharged SOC will read around 12.1 to 12.2. That is what mine…and others who followed the protocols got.
Now…you want the SOC, discharged, to be 12.0 or 50%. You have to discharge until the DVM reads 11.7/.8…. So, in order for you to set the AGS start…you have to drop 0.1 VDC….otherwise…it starts prematurely.
AS WITH ALL THINGS…it depends. What works for you is fine. But if someone reads this and then sets the voltage too high and spends a lot of time boondocking and routinely starts charging at say 12.3….which some have said….THEY DO…for safety. Then all you are doing is shortening the life.
Common sense and understanding exactly how the battery works and the needs and such….that is what is important.
A BEN “rule of thumb” might not be applicable to another member…
Rock on. Glad you exercise them…
96 EVO
12 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
A BEN “rule of thumb” might not be applicable to another member…
Rock on. Glad you exercise them…
Absolutely!
My coach spends the majority of it's life in my driveway, connected to 30A shore, batteries float charging.
You want a real battery cycle life, you need to talk to fulltime boondockers.
jacwjames
So the solar charging is working but you aren't seeing the voltages. Have you checked the wiring/pigtail that goes from the solar charger to the display?? It might have worked it way loose.
On recent mod that I've done is to install a Victron BMV712 Keypad and controller wiring 2006 Holiday Rambler Imperial wiring
70DBoss
Hey all,
I have been trying to sort on the wiring on my keypad to controller and the colors on the coach side do not match the Monaco diagram that I have. It appears that the previous owner tried to replace the keypad and was unsure of the connections. I have the keypad powered up and it makes the standard beeps when programming and it also beeps when I disconnect the controller under the dash. I have checked the controller and it is also receiving power. I did notice that when the reset is pressed on the controller that the light does not illuminate. Does anyone have the correct diagram?
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
4 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:Just for clarification, this is an Auto Temp Start (ATS - not to be confused with Auto Transfer Switch), which is uniquely different from what most of us call an Auto Gen Start (AGS). The ATS starts the Generator when a certain temperature is reached. It is typically used to start the generator when pets are left in the coach, but can be used for any reason that you don't want the inside of the coach to get too hot. Most use it incase of shore power failure, since for it to cool the coach, the A/C would have to be turned on and set to a temp below the set temp of this device. An AGS unit typically starts the Generator when the batteries are lower than a predetermined value.
This device can still be used with Victron equipment - I have one in my coach. But it will not start the generator on low battery conditions, only when the coach inside has exceeded the set temperature conditions.
-Rick N.
This was installed on our 2004 Dynasty and was used to auto start the generator on low voltage oR soc controlled remotely by an RC7 REMOTE. Yes it could have been used with victron but would require modifications which I was not willing to make
TOM This has been used years on our 2004 Dynasty to auto start our 10kw onan on low voltage or SOC. The parameters are set by an RC7 REMOTE using a xnatrex inverter.
Please correct the the above statements and change the title appropriately.
Thanks
Just Jim
I assume you mean the keypad by the door? Do you have a model number? I replaced mine but it is a few years older. There were lots of conversations on here regarding that... did you do a search? The thread that I followed was "Key Fob Programming". There are some good instructions there, but they may not match up to your coach. More info is always a good thing.
rbeachy206
And here's this, also straight from the Trojan manual on page 23, and I quote,
"Trojan’s deep-cycle flooded batteries take 50 - 100 cycles to achieve full, peak capacity."
According to Battery University they begin to decline beyond 100 cycles. I'm sure this would all vary based on the depth of discharge with each cycle. Trojan's statement may be based on their recommended 80% discharge limit.
Benjamin
Trojan or other battery companies absolutely count the cycles of their batteries and know how many cycles they will last under what conditions, statistically speaking. That's in their typical use which is forklifts, golf carts, and other regular uses. The tough part is estimating how long they'll last in an RV that might have careful maintenance, or might have zero maintenance.
I didn't see anything recommending exercising batteries before putting into service, just a statement that they will not perform to full capacity at first. So I have no opinion of exercising before putting into service.
I'll bet for the typical RV, and most other lead acid batteries also, storing discharged causes way more damage than the depth of discharge or number of cycles. The "Batteries should be fully charged after each use." was only mentioned once, almost in passing. Seems to me that should be commandment one, two and three. And that's one of the biggest advantages of Li, stores great at partial charge.
rbeachy206
Sorry my bad. I had missed Tom's earlier post on this. Disregard.
Preston W
Hi, all we are heartbroken.We've taken such care of our Monaco Dynasty.baby. several hours ago on interstate 99, pulling into Bakersfield in the right lane.A dooley truck crashed into the right side with a huge impact doing major damage all the way up the side of the coach. Strangely enough, the coach is still drivable with all the systems intact. He missed the radiator and didn't blow our tires. But the body condition is just horrible. Rather than have a tow truck, take it to a yard.We are actually attempting to get it back home where we can find a place to get it prepared. Has anybody had an experience with us? We're located in the Phoenix area and are hoping that someone can repair rather just junk it!!
the entire rear section by the radiator is gone, vent panel fell off the freeway and all of the storage doors have been damaged. We're afraid that the insurance company will total the RV, which we love so much. The body seemed to absorb the impact well. we have no slides.What are your thoughts on whether this can be repaired or not? We're a 1998 Monaco Dynasty.
Aquahot 100-04S issues. No Hot Water. Thanks
Grant Stanton
Actually I have the exact same unit which I just pulled out to rebuild last winter and the electric hot water is exactly the same as an electric hot water heater in your house, as a matter a fact I went to Home Depot to get a new heating element for mine. I'm attaching a photo showing you where there is a little round door that you can take off to see if you are getting AC voltage to your element or not. So if your lights are on as you say they are, after you take the cover off, set your voltmeter to AC volts not DC and see if you are getting around 110 AC volts your element is probably burnt out. If there is voltage you can unhook the wires to it and set your meter to ohms and test for continuity and you should have approximately 10-30 ohms resistance, if you have zero then the element is burnt out and will need replacing. If thats the case it will be a good time to flush out the boiler tank real good. Good luck if you don't already have it working.
Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
LakeBob
Wow, so glad everyone is safe. I understand your heartbreak, I would feel the same if someone ran into our Dynasty after all the blood, sweat and tears invested.
On the plus side, it appears the damage is relatively superficial, mostly just fiberglass. If all the mechanical systems are still functioning properly it should be a straightforward repair for a good fiberglass shop. Appears most panels broke off at the belt line.
Good luck with your insurance company, do your research, determine the real current value of the rig and don't take their first offer!
70DBoss
Just Jim,
I did a search of the Essex 1701 and did not find info on the standard key fob controller . My keypad, which is dated 10/18 and the coach is a 06, has loose wires and on the coach side wiring, it doesn’t match the schematic as the schematic shows a Molex 9 pin and mine is a small four pin similar to the key fob controller.
Preston W
Hi, like Bob very encouraging from you.I just know how these insurance companies are.And thanks again for your heartfelt thoughts.We are amazed that this guy came in and crashed into the rig but missed it our tow car. Could have been a lot worse.I suppose.
Ivan K
Sorry to see what happened to you and glad that it wasnt worse. I was in a similar situation few years back. If you consider repairing it whether insurance approves or not, I would suggest collecting the fiber pieces. It makes recontructing the corner and shaped parts much easier, I have been there. Metal parts could be reskinned or replaced. Best of luck!
cbr046
I totalled a big Honda motorcycle, bought it back from the insurance company and put my own labor into it's repair (after the ribs and collar bone healed). Most of the damages were bolt-on fiberglass panels. I restored it to original condition, no shortcuts and rode it another 80,000 miles. I got lucky and the insurance company didn't convert the title into a salvage title, maybe because they didn't turn it into the state (I dunno, just a guess).
Visone could be a source for what you need.
Check your DMV laws in your home state.
- bob
VinceB
In the last 3 days I've spent about 6 hours on 3 wheels polishing my Accuride wheels. Still one more to go.
I've tried everything from Mother's to Bushes and in between - none of them make it easy. I get that, but what I want is to seal the wheels once I've got them polished in hopes that I don't have to do it again any sooner than possible.
I've considered applying straight carnauba wax but suspect that it might not last all that long. Any suggestions?
Preston W
Well, if this doesn't put everything in perspective here. We were worried about a little tiny grease leak coming out of the rear axle.And then got into Bakersfield today and a guy in a big truck crashed into our Monaco and destroyed the whole left side. Thank goodness, we're all okay, but I'll sure need a good fiberglass repair guy when we get back to Phoenix. I put a post on the entire accident on the body and chasse section forum. PS. The grease isn't leaking out the rear paper seal after all! We worry about the insurance company just totalling out our beloved Monaco Dynasty which is a 1998, but we hope they don't.
Preston W
1 hour ago, Ivan K said:Sorry to see what happened to you and glad that it wasnt worse. I was in a similar situation few years back. If you consider repairing it whether insurance approves or not, I would suggest collecting the fiber pieces. It makes recontructing the corner and shaped parts much easier, I have been there. Metal parts could be reskinned or replaced. Best of luck!
Unfortunately, this guy hit the rear, so hard that a lot of the fiber pieces fell off and were swept off the freeway.I don't know what happened to them including the large rectangular vent with all the fins outside off the radiator. I'm hoping that thay can maybe use a mold from the other side to replicate the curved corner of the rear end cap. We've taken lots of good photos of the rig over the years that they might be able to use as well. this guy did a number on everything.But it's a miracle that all systems are working.We're camping out tonight in Tehachapi.And it looks ridiculous driving down the road but works. Just didn't want to leave it at a salvage yard.In Bakersfield, we've got all of our clothes and full refrigerator of food etc.On board. The California Highway Patrol led me off the freeway.And then I told my wife that If we can drive on the freeway let's get out of here!
Donflem
There is a shop in Victorville that belongs to a friend of mine that might have a 98 or a99 sitting there. I think I posted it a while back he was cleaning up his yard selling a bunch of stuff. I think I posted some stuff on the forum with pictures I will try and find out in the morning he has a couple of really good fiberglass guys that could fix that it’s kind of on your way home. M&M coach specialist 12137 industrial Blvd Victorville ca. 92395 909-627-6000 Jessie.
Don
MyronTruex
Unless you have incredibly bad wheels, you are working way too hard.
Frank McElroy
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
This message was sent to you because you opted in for Newsletters at Bill D’s Monacoers.
To unsubscribe Guest click here:Unsubscribe here
We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter. Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org
Copyright © 2024 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.