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Little cold water flow. Hot is good.


saflyer

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Connected to city water with pressure reducer set to about 45 psi. When we open the cold water at any sink it starts flowing then tapers off rapidly to almost no flow. The hot water has good flow. I turned on the pump and the cold flow was normal. Not great but usable. Turned the pump off and flow went to a trickle. Any ideas?

Ed,         
‘05 HAR Ambassador 

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There is nothing special about the cold water supply versus the hot water supply unless you have some sort of restriction in your cold water supply for some reason.

Has it always been this way or did it happen suddenly? If the latter, what has changed?

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I had the same issue. Under my kitchen sink was an Everpure filter. I changed and it fixed the cold water flow back to normal flow. Maybe you might have a cold water filter also.

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Just another thought. My cold water filter has a shut off valve on it. If you have one maybe your valve is not open all the way.

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@Cajunboy1959 

That could very well be the problem.

My previous Windsor came with one of those. it was always a PITA and very expensive to replace the filter. I finally removed the entire fixture and installed a bypass on that line. Eventually I installed an Ice Maker Filter on the ice maker water line in its location. We didn't need that Everpure Water filter as we use a household water filter on the shore water line going to the water softener we were using.

Ice Maker Filter Mod-01.JPG

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2 hours ago, Fasthobie16 said:

Is your fresh water valve on fill or city water. Set it on city and see if that helps. 

City.

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

There is nothing special about the cold water supply versus the hot water supply unless you have some sort of restriction in your cold water supply for some reason.

Has it always been this way or did it happen suddenly? If the latter, what has changed?

Was fine on our last trip the first week of April. This trip started yesterday and just noticed the problem today. I haven’t touched anything in the water system.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

@Cajunboy1959 

That could very well be the problem.

My previous Windsor came with one of those. it was always a PITA and very expensive to replace the filter. I finally removed the entire fixture and installed a bypass on that line. Eventually I installed an Ice Maker Filter on the ice maker water line in its location. We didn't need that Everpure Water filter as we use a household water filter on the shore water line going to the water softener we were using.

Ice Maker Filter Mod-01.JPG

I removed my filter years ago.

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1 hour ago, saflyer said:

City.

Was fine on our last trip the first week of April. This trip started yesterday and just noticed the problem today. I haven’t touched anything in the water system.

I removed my filter years ago.

Don’t understand it but we have cold water flow now. To get to the park spigot I had pulled the hose to its limit. My wife suggested I retract it just a little. That seemed to solve the problem. It’s still a mystery. Why did we have hot water flow but not cold. I don’t understand how source pressure could have caused the problem. Oh well, we’ll see if the fix lasts.

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23 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Don’t understand it but we have cold water flow now. To get to the park spigot I had pulled the hose to its limit. My wife suggested I retract it just a little. That seemed to solve the problem. It’s still a mystery. Why did we have hot water flow but not cold. I don’t understand how source pressure could have caused the problem. Oh well, we’ll see if the fix lasts.

Simple…or should I say….could be.  There are two theories.

First…there was a twist or kink in the line…maybe you dislodged it. BUT, THERE IS ONLY ONE SUPPLY. If you had full flow on the hot water, there was adequate pressure to “put new or unheated” city water into the tank,  if there was an upstream restriction like a kink or twist, that impacts the WHOLE system.  So, your line or faucet pressure, throughout the MH, at every outlet or faucet or such, regardless of hot or cold would have been reduced….OK…Shot down in flames.

NEXT UP. There was a restriction in either the cold water line to the kitchen faucet or some thing got into the “cold cartridge” or the seal/seat/O-ring that controls cold.

Did you test any other facuets? Did you test them for both cold and hot?

OK…there is another thread going on “abnormalities” or “gee…is this normal” and the OP says he is a newbie and may be looking for something that is not broken and is normal.

There is a great deal of information there.  Particularly related to the need, or the value, of having washing machine filters in use at almost every point or where there is a washer….as well as putting male garden hose plastic plugs in the fresh water hose and the backflush fitting.  Might be good reading.

The FINAL comment, which someone might have alluded to. If you recently filled the fresh tank…make sure the valve is closed.  Many of us practice the close and reopen and close technique. Sometimes a few particles of trash or debris (thus the need for the washing machine filter screens) will get in snd you will gradually “fill” the fresh tank. This is a gradual process….not a monsoon like when the pump backflow valve fails and you overflow the tank.

GOOD LUCK.

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The cold water but not hot was reduce at each faucet, 2, and the toilet. Didn’t think to check the shower. 

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Another theory....not saying it is....but could possibly explain the hot water higher flow and immediate lower cold flow from a single source supply restriction.

Several ifs, 

If number 1: the hot water flow was more, but only for a certain time.  Did you allow the hot water to flow for about a minute or more to see if it eventually slowed down as well?

If number 2: you have some air in your hot water tank.  This can act as a pressure surge tank if there is air in the tank and thus keep a higher volume of hot water flowing for a period of time.  Might want to pop the PRV on the hot water tank to make sure it is full of water and no air.

If number 3: somehow having the hose completely extended there was a crimp in hose on the reel and was restricting total flow to the coach.

Thinking out loud as well.

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19 hours ago, Bill R said:

Another theory....not saying it is....but could possibly explain the hot water higher flow and immediate lower cold flow from a single source supply restriction.

Several ifs, 

If number 1: the hot water flow was more, but only for a certain time.  Did you allow the hot water to flow for about a minute or more to see if it eventually slowed down as well?

If number 2: you have some air in your hot water tank.  This can act as a pressure surge tank if there is air in the tank and thus keep a higher volume of hot water flowing for a period of time.  Might want to pop the PRV on the hot water tank to make sure it is full of water and no air.

If number 3: somehow having the hose completely extended there was a crimp in hose on the reel and was restricting total flow to the coach.

Thinking out loud as well.

#1 Didn’t let it flow very long as we don’t have sewer hookup at this campground.

#2 Thought about that as the hot water could be somewhat pressurized in that circumstance. 
        
#3 But why would that affect hot and cold flow them same?

Thanks 

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10 minutes ago, saflyer said:

#1 Didn’t let it flow very long as we don’t have sewer hookup at this campground.

#2 Thought about that as the hot water could be somewhat pressurized in that circumstance. 
        
#3 But why would that affect hot and cold flow them same?

Thanks 

It depends.  You need to be able to let it run.  Strange things happen.  Air in the cold water line….will take a while to expel.  The bladder in the tank.

Difficult without being there to perform all the tests and answer every scenario.  IF you have good flow, run the pump.  Go home. Experiment there.  You may be fine….just the way things happen.

Make sure you understand how most of us do it.  YES, folks use second filters before the white fresh hose.  Some don’t. Anytime you out in an additional filter…pressure drop and flow drop.  If that is tolerable…OK…not…don’t over filter snd use the preferred or the right filter based on the general consensus.

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24 minutes ago, saflyer said:

#3 But why would that affect hot and cold flow them same?

Because if you had a restriction or kink in the hose, and then that is removed, you now have driving pressure with no restriction to keep the flow in the cold supply along with the hot water.  Open your PRV to see if there is air in the HWH tank.  Be careful of hot water spewing out.

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19 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

It depends.  You need to be able to let it run.  Strange things happen.  Air in the cold water line….will take a while to expel.  The bladder in the tank.

Difficult without being there to perform all the tests and answer every scenario.  IF you have good flow, run the pump.  Go home. Experiment there.  You may be fine….just the way things happen.

Make sure you understand how most of us do it.  YES, folks use second filters before the white fresh hose.  Some don’t. Anytime you out in an additional filter…pressure drop and flow drop.  If that is tolerable…OK…not…don’t over filter snd use the preferred or the right filter based on the general consensus.

Will do some more playing with it at home.

Thanks

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Posted (edited)

Out of curiosity, was this ever solved? Even though I have never had this problem I save many of the articles so I have a reference library just in case, plus this forum is an absolutely invaluable learning experience. It wasn't until a year after I bought my first pusher and blowing money out of ignorance before I found this forum. I still understand nothing about diesel, but I now have avoided leaving money and weeks and weeks of downtime in incompetent RV repair shops. You all are my valued mentors for which I am most greatful.

Edited by bobdinsmore
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32 minutes ago, bobdinsmore said:

Out of curiosity, was this ever solved? Even though I have never had this problem I save many of the articles so I have a reference library just in case, plus this forum is an absolutely invaluable learning experience. It wasn't until a year after I bought my first pusher and blowing money out of ignorance before I found this forum. I still understand nothing about diesel, but I now have avoided leaving money and weeks and weeks of downtime in incompetent RV repair shops. You all are my valued mentors for which I am most greatful.

Problem was solved but still a mystery. When hooking up I had to pull the fill hose on a reel to its limit. That probably put a kink in it where it attaches to the reel drum. After retracting the hose just a few inches cold water was restored. But that doesn’t explain have hot but not cold water flow. Hot air in the hot water tank might be a cause but probably would only affect It temporarily. 
          
Yes, this forum and its people are a godsend.

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32 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Ed - were you able to pop the Hot Water Tank PRV to see if there is any air in the tank?

Not yet. Haven’t decided if I want to try. But if I let it cool off the test won’t be valid.

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It won't matter if it is hot or cold.  If there is air in the tank it will still be there.  But you need have pressure in the system either from your water pump or hose when you release the PRV.  Then see how long it takes for water to start flowing out.  If it is immediate then no air.  If there is air, you will hear it  and then eventually water should start to flow out.

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3 minutes ago, Bill R said:

It won't matter if it is hot or cold.  If there is air in the tank it will still be there.  But you need have pressure in the system either from your water pump or hose when you release the PRV.  Then see how long it takes for water to start flowing out.  If it is immediate then no air.  If there is air, you will hear it  and then eventually water should start to flow out.

OK , I’ll try that when we get home. I wondered how water can fill an empty hot water without trapping some air in it. Thanks.

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