Leaking rear wheel seal

[Preston W]

Just put it into Paso Robles in our 1998 Monaco dynasty and  noticed on the left rear tire and hub some leakage from what i'm assuming is the weel/axle seal that is now leaking. I didn't see any residual oil spraying up the back of the rig. Or a lot around the chassie or on the ground.   assuming that it just started today.   What are the chances we could drive back to Phoenix and Have it repaired at Spectrac.   It's a 2 day drive. We have an Eaton differential. I was thinking of contacting a truck stop on the way back, but I'm seeing posts from some Monico drivers that have had wheel bearing seals replaced over and over with the wrong part seal.  So I was wondering if this is an easy part to find with an off the counter fix or something that has to be ordered?  any advice would be much appreciated. I understand that some oil could get on the brake shoes and compromise the effectiveness but what are the chances of monitoring the oil level in the differential on the way back?

[Ivan K]

Funny but just few minutes ago I cleaned couple of similar streaks on ours and I know it isn't a leaking seal. If they had the wheel off, chances are they oiled the lug nut washer and this is what you may be seeing. It is a regular process to oil the washers. If you have doubts,  you could remove the cover cap (if removable) to confirm.

Edited May 17, 2024 by Ivan K
Sp

[Preston W]

I like your positive outlook.And I did just have both rear tires off getting wheelspacers on the inside of both duals.  I will clean it up and hopefully that will be the end of the problem.But you given me a little bit of peace of mind  on our vacation.

Edited May 17, 2024 by Preston W
Misspellings

[vito.a]

This is probably the paper gasket on the outside of the full floating axle.  This is a very simple repair and should take less than 30 minutes.  Remove every other lug nut to get the chrome wheel hub cover off (the wheel stays on).  Then remove the axle retaining nuts.  Slide the axle out.  Because it's a full floating axle the weight is supported by the housing and bearing assembly.  Clean and scrape both surfaces.

You can install a new paper gasket and it will leak again, or you can clean both surfaces and use some Ultra Gray sealer.  The only issue with using the Ultra Gray is it makes it harder to remove the axle next time.  

You can probably drive it back to Phoenix without issue.  Make sure you top off the gear oil after the repair.  

[Preston W]

Thank you for the insight and technical repair points!

 

 

[Tom Wallis]

I was going to say the same thing that Ivan said. There is probably nothing leaking. I've had those same streaks and upon further inspection found it was the lugs or just some water that got behind the cover. If you wipe it off it probably won't come back.

[Preston W]

Follow-up to our rear wheel seal which may not be leaking. When I get back to Phoenix I'll have spectrac suspension  I'll take a look at it. The tech  indicated that if it did need a wheel seal, it would be a special order item and not off-the-shelf. Does anybody have the wheel seal part number that would work on a 1998 Monaco Dynasty with an Eaton differential? This would be great to have if they do need to order it. Thank you for any help.

[Bob Blackmon]

That's leaking out the front. It's a gasket and readily available. The seal is on the back side and you would not see oil on the front.

[vito.a]

You and he are not communicating.  It's not a wheel seal.  It's an axle flange gasket, made of paper  It goes between the axle flange and the hub.  Axle flange gasket.jfif

[Preston W]

Thanks so much for the clarification. And nice to know. Its readily available.

 

 

 

[Preston W]

 

 Now I get it! I  didn't understand at first that there was a paper seal on the rear axle. Here is a  helpful video on how to replace that paper.seal on the rear Axle. this video shows step by step how to do  the whole process.

 

 

Edited May 18, 2024 by Preston W
Typos

[96 EVO]

Yeah, that guy got lucky!

Flat washers behind the nuts, rather than cones! 

Believe me, pulling the axle 'can' be much more work than that 😁!!

[Preston W]

I was thinking the same thing. He had a lot of trouble getting that axle back into the differentiall.  I told my wife I wouldn't even attempt that on the road because our coach is drivable. And  has a  small leak At best. I'd rather monitor the differential oil level on the way back home rather than do this by the side of the road.  If can't get it back together again and you're stuck.!

[96 EVO]

No, it's not going to leak enough to cause any trouble, unless it has been leaking for a long time!

Just a PIA to keep your rims clean.

 

[Ivan K]

1 hour ago, Preston W said:

I was thinking the same thing. He had a lot of trouble getting that axle back into the differentiall.  I told my wife I wouldn't even attempt that on the road because our coach is drivable. And  has a  small leak At best. I'd rather monitor the differential oil level on the way back home rather than do this by the side of the road.  If can't get it back together again and you're stuck.!

The only part that requires a little muscle while reinserting the axle, is lifting the far splined end of the axle inside the tube up a little, against gravity, to get it into the female splines. Really not such a big deal. The opening is chamfered and will guide it in. As Ben mentioned, my axles also use centering cones over the studs but this appears to be different design and aparently not enough torque in the video is why the paper seal was pushed out as there would be at least some minor play around those studs. There is no pressure to just push gaskets out. He mentioned 180 lbs, wow, I think I did 90 or so with cones on 1/2" studs. But I have no idea what Alegro is using for supplier. I had my axles out a couple of times to check bearing preload and work on brakes but the NAPA gaskets never leaked. If you need a spare, all that's needed is the circle size and number of holes.

[96 EVO]

5 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

  He mentioned 180 lbs, wow, I think I did 90 or so with cones on 1/2" studs. But I have no idea what Alegro is using for supplier.  

Yeah, recall mine being in the 75-90 ft/lb range as well.

[Preston W]

Thanks much. Can't believe that these axle seals are going out so soon. We're at a 142000 miles.

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, Preston W said:

Thanks much. Can't believe that these axle seals are going out so soon. We're at a 142000 miles.

Ha.... mine were leaking before 55,000 mi.

You seen the video of the shape the guy's paper gaskets looked like with about 10,000mi.

Edited May 19, 2024 by 96 EVO

[96 EVO]

If your axle flange has the cones behind the nut's like Ivan's and myself, you will likely need a decent size sledge hammer for disassembly.

Only for disassembly though!!

Put it away before you start reassembly 😁!!

[Ivan K]

Haha, good point and leave the nuts on few threads or you may not find the cones anymore as they shoot out.

[Preston W]

I could have used a sledge on a number of problems on the coach. Ha

[96 EVO]

Just now, Ivan K said:

Haha, good point and leave the nuts on few threads or you may not find the cones anymore as they shoot out.

That's one reason.

The other is, if your aim is off a little with the sledge, you don't destroy the threads on the lugs!

[Just Jim]

I had the rear axle seals replaced on my old coach.  It had been parked for a while before I got it and I think they dried out.  I had the rear brake shoes replaced at the same time as they were pretty well coated.  Sitting and not running is a big enemy of these coaches and engines.

[Preston W]

You're so right.These rigs are made to be run.Keeps all the gaskets and the seals healthy. Didn't realize you could lose an axle ,  because of that.

[Gweedo]

I just replaced one of my axle seals.  I soaked my cone washers a few times, used an air chissel to vibrate around each stud, then wacked the heck out of it with the sledgomatic.  took about 12 big wacks before they started to pop lose, then I used a small screwdriver to tap them in a circle.  For sure put each nut on the stud before wacking and to prevent it shooting back at you.  I used a heavier gasket, I think I torque to 70-75 which may not be enough, I noticed a small amount of sling, not sure if it was residual,  but I will re-torque today to levels mentioned above and see if that stops it.  Mine had more studs and there is tightening sequence I had to follow.  I only lost maybe 2-ounces of oil. not enough to worry about.

Unless you have an air gun large enough, you will need a torque multiplier to get the lugs off the wheel to remove the cap.   Good luck.