saflyer

My switch is very difficult to access the back side. I tried to look at it but can’t get a view. Did you just do it by feel?

My headlights aren’t operating. They don’t come on with high or low beam settings. Nor do the small lights on the front below the running lights. (I don’t know what those are called nor which switch position turns them on. Can someone please educate me on this?) The amber running and red tail lights work. I checked the fuse in the forward run bay and it’s good. Next I plan to check the switch. Looks like I’ll have to pull the dash to access it. What is involved in that job. I see it appears to be held in place by several screws. Will it come out after removing them or is there more to it than that? I’m concerned about the possibility of breaking the dash. Wondering if this is a job I should attempt or should I take it to the shop? I’d like to do the troubleshooting myself since it might be a simple fix. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I think we should let the original poster or moderators decide when topics have run their course. Any reader has the option of no longer visiting the topic. Ed

But isn’t there an accuracy difference if the two gauges have an obvious difference in readings?

I purchased the ScanD after my analog coolant gauge read over maximum allowable and the audible chirper sounded every time I climbed a mountain. Repeated trips to Cummins produced no record of overheating. After installing the ScanD it was obvious the analog gauge read noticeably high. All that is to say I believe I do need a device like the ScanD so I can operate the coach properly. These units are far more accurate than analog gauges. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

If possible best advice is to weigh each wheel position rather than axle then use heaviest side time 2 for the tables. But that’s not always possible to get position weights.

Thanks all. The immediate question: the house battery isolation switch has two cables from it on the coach side, one to the inverter and one to the coach 12v items. I’ve been advised to replace it as it’s a cheap one. A Blue Seas switch is suggested. But as Tom Cherry said we should always do what is described in the wiring diagram and sometimes wiring has been changed over the years. So I just want to verify I am installing the new switch correctly.

Where can I find the wiring diagram for my ‘05 HR Ambassador? Thanks

I have two 12v LiFePO4 lithium batteries installed in parallel in place of the original 4 6v batteries in serial/parallel. The original setup had what I believe is one Class T fuse on the positive line from the batteries about 3 feet from them. A few questions. First, I watched a video that said any fuse should be within 7 inches of the power source. Do I need to move the Class T fuse closer to the batteries. If so it will require new cables. A bigger question, though, is what fuse protection should I use. I’ve read Class T is best with ANL and MRBF fuses are next best in that order. What is more confusing is one person on a forum said I should have a fuse on the positive line making the parallel connection between the batteries and another on the line from battery two to the system. I’ve never seen anything like that. Would they be different size fuses since the second one would have to protect for twice the current of the one between the batteries? Nate Yarborough of explorist.life, a site for learning about van solar installations, has wiring charts that show just one fuse on the main cable connecting the battery bank with the battery cutoff switch. Regardless of whether it’s one or two fuses can anyone help me with the size of fuse(s)? Like I said, the batteries are 12v. The max continuous discharge rating of each is 100a, peak discharge 200a(3sec) and max charge current is 70a, 40a recommended. I have my charger set for 50a max. Since there are two batteries in parallel should I size the fuse for twice these numbers plus a margin? I’ve heard 120% as this margin. So should the fuse be at least 2x100ax120%=240a fuse or 2x200ax120%=480a fuse for the peak discharge number? Thanks, Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Some Buc-ee’s have separate RV fuel pump islands. I wonder if they all have transitions from the road to the parking like the one that caused your problem?

Watch CBS Sunday Morning show: https://www.cbsnews.com/news/welcome-to-buc-ees/?intcid=CNM-00-10abd1h The New Braunfels, TX Buc-ee’s, where this story was shot, was the largest. Not anymore. It has 32 urinals, I counted. (Hey, everyone needs a hobby.)

Looks that could be really hard on the coach frame if it really connected with the pavement?

Monaco Owners Club Thor Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 248 Has anyone installed the RV Airflow Systems modification to improve airflow in ducted A/C units? Does it work? Ed ‘05 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 2 Dometic Penguin IIs

Should we compare and contrast Easy Start vs. Soft Start?

Tell us more about Balance Masters.

My motorhome still has the Duracell 31C batteries it had when I purchased it used over 11 years ago. I don’t know how old they were when I bought the coach. I know I should probably replace them just because but I’m really proud of them. CA 32f 1140a CCA 0f. 950a

I just bought a clamp meter that reads DC current. If I did it right the parasite draw on my chassis batteries is just .17 amp. Does that seem realistic?

Where are you located? I went to a 17cf Whirlpool when I replaced my Norcold 1210. Later I learned about the 12 volt conversion for the Norcold. Since I like to boondock on solar I might have gone that route even though it would have been considerably more expensive despite the cost of cabinetry for the Whirlpool. I do seem to have enough solar power for my righ in the summer that might not be the case in the winter. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I was thinking of getting a Hydralift carrier for my golf cart. Loaded it would add about 1800# on my rear but considering the lever arm the rear axle would have about an additional 2700# on it. Pulled out the CAT scales report and my rear axle is within a very few pounds of its capacity. Guess I can’t tow anything that has a tongue weight. Back to the drawing boards. BTW, I tow about 6000# of car. The Swivelwheel and cart will bring me near 8000#. Nice to know adding a Swivelwheel dolly with the cart won’t hurt performance too much since we have identical coaches. Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

I just had the IRD which is now disconnected. I had planned on adding an Amp-L-Start to keep the chassis batteries charged but you gave me other ideas in a previous thread. I also was planning to add a DCDC charger to keep the house batteries charged while on the road but think the solar should take care of that.

Now I see I need to give more information. My coach does not have a B.I.R.D. When I installed lithium house batteries I disconnected the alternator charging circuit to them. So I’m depending on shore power or solar to keep the house batteries charged. That brings me to what I need to do, charge and maintain the chassis batteries when the engine isn’t run for some time.

I need to purchase a battery charger and maintainer to carry for my chassis batteries. Looking at a couple or three chargers, Schumacher 10a and 8a units that say they are maintainers and a Noco Genius 5. They all say they are set and forget chargers/maintainers but the Noco also says it has an onboard temperature sensor and a desulphanator which the Schumacher units don’t mention. I’m hoping a charger such as one of these can serve my purposes for general use in the motorhome. What are thoughts on these or are there better alternatives? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Looking at a couple or three chargers, Schumacher 10a and 8a units that say they are maintainers and a Noco Genius 5. They all say they are set and forget chargers/maintainers but the Noco also says it has an onboard temperature sensor and a desulphanator which the Schumacher units don’t mention. I’m hoping a charger such as one of these can serve my purposes for general use in the motorhome. What are thoughts on these or are there better alternatives? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

This is the vent in my coach. What is it’s purpose? How is it removed? Do I have to unscrew the collar to loosen it then unscrew the vent? If so does the collar turn standard direction? What is the gold cone with a silver cap on the red hose? Ed ‘05 HR Ambassador

Another, possibly related point. When I dump the black water generally flows freely until it’s empty but the gray water will stop flowing for a bit and then there will be a gurgle around the valve area and it flows freely again. I would expect the black water to be more prone to this behavior because of the solids and toilet paper but it’s the gray water tank that has the problem. Could it be a gray water tank vent that has an obstruction? If so where is it and what does it look like?