Ivan K

Just wondering, was it $6k to repair the external coil or an exchange for a different unit?

I think the AH is awesome. Hot water on demand, house heat through registers in 3 separate zones, engine preheat if needed and free hot water after a drive from engine heat. Like anything, parts break and wear out. Maintenance is simple, just like household oil burners. Repairs seem expensive and everyone has different financial pain threshold. I have never taken the coach to any shop for anything, other than my own and my labor is free, so yeah, I like it.

There should be no 16 blink sequence, are you sure there wasn't a pause? Anyway, try the diagnostic mode this time which starts after 1s push on the button. It should start repeating active codes, there may be mulltiple so you need to take a good note. There is 1.5s pause between 1st and second digit and 4s pause between codes. Meaning of the codes is in the cheat above. The 3s push is to read and clear the codes but if the problem is still present, it will come back after you get moving again. Honestly, a brake job should not cause anything else than changing a gap between sensor and tone ring which would be indicated by 3 blinks plus an other digit. You mentioned that the sensors were ohmed so they should not be cut.

Thank you Ray, glad you were safe.

I am sure the internal coil provides better heat transfer but ours is plenty hot the way it is also. No complaints.

Glad to know, damage can be fixed. I would expect that polymer runflat inserts would also prevent damage to rim since it would not drop to the ground and possibly some body damage depending on how the blowout destroyed the tire. Were you able to tell if it was the sidewall or thread separation that caused it or was it just too shredded to tell? Thanks.

Yeah, tons of fun pulling it out. Good job! I feel your back pain. Luckily, our fresh water loop is external so no need to cut the tank. My problem ended up being a coolant leak by the exhaust pipe, a pin hole. Later, the brass filler neck cracked and separated from the tank. It is just a brass piece soldered to steel pipe... I converted it to non-pressurized system with a nice test plug in place of the cap, used for radiator testing. It overflows into the overflow tank just like it always has, no difference. Since the thermostats will not let it actually reach boiling temperature, it works great ever since. There are ways to repair/replace the neck but it's just much easier this way and functions exactly the same. Pics for comparison:

I think the last year for OE use of R12 was 1994, legally. Just because you may have same as R12 type fittings does not mean much. Ours does too. Check your manual, it should mention what was used. Maybe a label on the compressor, if present. "Correctly" done retrofit would involve much more than just freon change but I doubt you'll have R12, R134 is cheap if you end up needing it.

Any gauges will do, just need the correct fittings for whatever you have. Cheap HF gauges will work for R12 as well as R134, until the hoses fall apart eventually... Are you sure you have R12 in it? That might be hard to find for refill and you may have to convert to R134a. I still have R12 for classic cars but it is priced as gold these days...

The clutch will not activate if refrigerant pressure is low. If you know where your pressure switch is, you might check that it closes when you turn AC on. If not, the pressure is too low or the switch is bad. If you momentarily jump it, the compressor should engage.

So your AC works, 77 degrees in an 54 out, more than 20 degrees drop is what you are looking for. House insulation can't keep up or there is an outside air coming in somewhere. For us, outside winshield cover made a noticeable difference, still just an equivalent of a huge single pane glass but helped.

As an alternative, I use these for big boy tires. Heavy but effective. Then a torque multiplier calibrated to just under 500 ftlb and electronic torque meter to finish it off. If I did not have a real tire changer, I would much prefere changing these big tires over small low profile car tires, that's how easy it is.

You'll have to clear the ABS codes first. Cruise control not working may be a symptom, not a cause of ABS trouble. Since you had the rotors just replaced, the wheel sensor gap would be the first thing to look at, for me anyway.. They can be pushed in from under the bus without removing the wheel and hub. They may have moved back when the hub was being installed and was still wiggly until the bearings are set. The code should tell you which one, just need to find the button... Then test drive. Here is what my button looks like, like a metal ball thingy

I have seen a coach where the ABS button was in the electrical/ fuse bay, FRB, beside the gen slide switch... sounds weird since the lamp is in the dash. Once you find the button, assuming you have Meritor/Rockwell system, here is a basic cheat sheet

Do you have a push button for ABS blink code under the dash in front of left knee where the diagnostic connector are? I had this happen after replacing the rotor and simply needed to push the wheel sensor closer to the tone ring but the blink readout should tell you which wheel or what problem you have. Even reset the light.

Just wondering who had experienced a blowout with the Tyron installed, in real life

The easiest test is to measure temperature of warm air entering the unit and the air leaving the closest duct. If you get even close to 20 degrees drop, the unit works. Opposite to popular belief, the units can be recharged but at least one test port has to be brazed in. Our original units use R22 and I had to recharge one of them after I stupidly cut the line when driving into my garage. I repair car AC systems when home so I had all tools I needed to get it done. Matter of finding someone reasonable and willing to do that on the roof, versus getting a new unit. I like to keep things running if they still can and if it makes sense.

If you turn AC on MAX, it should close the external duct and eliminate the fan as a suspect, assuming the vacuum actuator works.

I assume it is a hydraulic slide. Do you hear the pump motor run when trying to retract? The same pump would operate your generator slide, does that work? It won't work if the contact pins on basement doors under the slide are open or with ignition on, at least on ours. Since you appear to have internet access, you can download 2002 or 2004 manual. For what ever reason, there isn't one for 2003 but I doubt it would be much different. https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2002_Signature.pdf

Hopefully the check valve works real good until you get to it... it looks to me like a factory mess up, hidden behind the washer. The washer was not an option, it came standard with Signatures so nobody might have known about it, I think. I would cap the gray tank pipe just above the T and leave the p-trap in place, in case you want to use it later. A couple of 45 degree elbows would join the black tank pipe to the now available roof vent pipe.

His 42' likely came with Allison 4060 like ours and we do have a long dipstick accessible from inside the bus. But as agreed, it isn't really necessary...

Hey Jim, wow, there is some monkey business going on. I attached a pic of ours. No idea why you would have two vents for gray but I bet that your black vent hose is the one capped by plastic, the middle pipe in your last pic. Someone messed it up because if your gray tank was forward of black, it would have worked out just fine for the washer drain, the second gray 'vent' pipe would be in correct location for the washer. See my pic, it should have been an identical coach. I think you need to do some cutting and re piping there...

Dipstick is only useful to confirm operating level range after a fluid change. If you just replace the amount drained, not really necessarily. Just plug it. Use the touch pad reading to fine tune. I can understand if you want to have everything the way it should be but it may be hard to find a correctly calibrated dipstick to match the tube length. Don't know if Allison keeps track of those. If I had to do that, I would get one of approximate length from a race shop or maybe some truck parts shop and calibrate it myself after the level is correct.

As far as the cost, it came to just under $3K with freight for the set of 4. This was a minimum order (4) so if you could split the 2 pairs and cost with someone else, you'll get a very decent price. That said, I have an extra pair now but it only works with my specific rim profile. Alcoa changed some profiles over time even with the same part number so I had to send a wheel for them to match it. It isn't universal and will not move on the rim sideways as the other potentially could.

I have no idea where the relay might be on your coach but if no one responds, maybe you could try to trace it out with tone tracer from the solenoid connection?