Ivan K

Our front cabinets have foam and vinyl padding underneath and that's what I did to the shortened TV Box as well. That covered up any imperfections in the new joint as I wrapped the bottom in it and if I ever hit my head again, it should not be so painful anymore.

So you do not even get some dash warning lights like ABS or oil pressure when key is in ON position?

PEX line ratings vary with temperature. Since your hot water line will have the same pressure as the incoming (post regulator) pressure, it should be kept well below 100 PSI. (Max 100 PSI at 180 degrees F). The factory regulator was more of a restrictor than anything and I dumped it for an adjustable and keep it at 55 PSI but frankly I have not been to a park where the pressure was even close, unlike others. It also makes filling the fresh water tank quite a bit faster now. I hated holding people up behind me as we do not have a gravity fill and 100 gals takes a while... We should also take into account what is the rating for icemaker line, washer line and other possibilities which I am not aware of but I believe the max acceptable or allowed pressure for household is 80 PSI.

Jim, I was in similar situation, could not cut the sides back because the ceiling vinyl does not go behind it and any decent size tv would interfere with the other cabinet doors so I cut the sides quite a few inches shorter and reattached the bottom. No head bumping anymore and it works fine. It is 32" Samsung tv. Similar now in the bedroom. The location works great for me, I like to be horizontal on the passenger side sofa when watching it😃. We don't spent much daytime in it anyway when parked and if there is something we just have to see, there is a larger outside tv for that.

Exactly what I have done with our factory solar system, isolated it from the house and added separate system just for the house. Works great for our needs. Our house batteries are still newish and good but lithium may be next, in time. By then you guys will have it all sorted out 😎

I would think that you would hear at least some vibrations when it is running, with an open faucet and maybe locate it that way? It is gonna be feeding the filters from the tank somewhere...

I would also check the voltage drop at batteries while cranking it. Load test would be nice to prove them, not just voltage reading while idle. That would give better idea where to look next. Big drop or just a little or no drop? Starter solenoid, ground, who knows at this point. Don't know about a travel alarm, maybe just a green travel indicator? Either way, the lights may be going out due to a low voltage while cranking or due to the ingnition switch turning them momentarily off for the start just like some accessories.

Awesome. I would also disconnect and isolate the purple wire on side of the solenoid so the solenoid does not eat up on your battery if the switch up front gets turned on while not hooked up to AC power.

It would appear that what they call a battery cutoff relay IS the salesman solenoid, so what have you actually replaced/ jumped? Since I read it as referring to two different things? Other than that there is nothing but the kill switch, straight cables an a breaker before it goes inside the coach's distribution box.

I think Jerry's problem right now is locating the salesman solenoid and he got schematics so it should be obvious from there. I have no idea where his is located but someone does. It will make more sense once he finds it. I also bypassed mine when they started to be intermittent when accidentally turned off but mainly to save power as we do a lot of boondocking. They were not latching solenoids.

The salesman switch is only switching ground so it will not have positive lead. The solenoid at the back should have permanent positive when the main battery kill switch is on. Or wherever your salesman solenoid is. I have two of them supplying different circuits of the coach so it may be different but the purple wire is ground lead either way.

Or cut and install a sheet of lightweight plastic sheet on top to raise it flush with the corners before sealing it up so the wiper can work better in those areas. Should not be that hard. Maybe I'll do that when I have to work on the topper or seals in the hopefully distant future...

It's not the hoses that get gummed up, and you won't be able to suck it out, too late now anyway. But you should be ok if it won't leak out dry and use it once a while. Just watch it.

John, how do you turn the AC heat on? We have a small 12v switch in the kitchen right beside the diesel switch and that switch activates a relay to connect AC from the breaker to the AH. I can hear the relay click when I turn it on. You show a big AC switch above, can't tell from the pic where it is located but is it the only way to turn the electric heat on? No 12v DC switch to turn it on remotely? If so, maybe you don't have that relay, can't tell. Then you would be looking for a bad connection, maybe in a junction box somewhere. I am not familiar with your LED indicator box but suppose it is just for that, indications and not a real function.

Totally different coach but I have an AC breaker specifically for AH in the bedroom breaker panel. You should have one somewhere too, it takes some serious power for the heating element(s).

Any chance you have seen where on the coil the leak was? I suspect the steel hold down at the last twist of the coil might cause future problem but that would be an easy fix once the unit is out... certainly much cheaper than the mentioned 10k cost. In hindsight, I should have isolated it when it was out, oh well, time will tell.

I don't know your sensor but does it have 2 leads by a chance? Like oil pressure sensors, one might be for the gauge with variable resistance and one for the dumb light. If reversed, it would cause problematic readings.

Just wondering, was it $6k to repair the external coil or an exchange for a different unit?

I think the AH is awesome. Hot water on demand, house heat through registers in 3 separate zones, engine preheat if needed and free hot water after a drive from engine heat. Like anything, parts break and wear out. Maintenance is simple, just like household oil burners. Repairs seem expensive and everyone has different financial pain threshold. I have never taken the coach to any shop for anything, other than my own and my labor is free, so yeah, I like it.

There should be no 16 blink sequence, are you sure there wasn't a pause? Anyway, try the diagnostic mode this time which starts after 1s push on the button. It should start repeating active codes, there may be mulltiple so you need to take a good note. There is 1.5s pause between 1st and second digit and 4s pause between codes. Meaning of the codes is in the cheat above. The 3s push is to read and clear the codes but if the problem is still present, it will come back after you get moving again. Honestly, a brake job should not cause anything else than changing a gap between sensor and tone ring which would be indicated by 3 blinks plus an other digit. You mentioned that the sensors were ohmed so they should not be cut.

Thank you Ray, glad you were safe.

I am sure the internal coil provides better heat transfer but ours is plenty hot the way it is also. No complaints.

Glad to know, damage can be fixed. I would expect that polymer runflat inserts would also prevent damage to rim since it would not drop to the ground and possibly some body damage depending on how the blowout destroyed the tire. Were you able to tell if it was the sidewall or thread separation that caused it or was it just too shredded to tell? Thanks.

Yeah, tons of fun pulling it out. Good job! I feel your back pain. Luckily, our fresh water loop is external so no need to cut the tank. My problem ended up being a coolant leak by the exhaust pipe, a pin hole. Later, the brass filler neck cracked and separated from the tank. It is just a brass piece soldered to steel pipe... I converted it to non-pressurized system with a nice test plug in place of the cap, used for radiator testing. It overflows into the overflow tank just like it always has, no difference. Since the thermostats will not let it actually reach boiling temperature, it works great ever since. There are ways to repair/replace the neck but it's just much easier this way and functions exactly the same. Pics for comparison:

I think the last year for OE use of R12 was 1994, legally. Just because you may have same as R12 type fittings does not mean much. Ours does too. Check your manual, it should mention what was used. Maybe a label on the compressor, if present. "Correctly" done retrofit would involve much more than just freon change but I doubt you'll have R12, R134 is cheap if you end up needing it.