Ivan K

For anyone potentially considering DIY resealing of their existing glass panes, here is what worked for me. All that was really needed is a razor blade, polisher, spacer tape and caulk gun (with optional tip adapter) for the sealant. I have done both front side windows (3 piece driver and door) and a sliding window some 3 years back and have no problems to date, which is not always true even with professional repairs. The spacer tape already contains desiccant and has sealing properties on its own with the tube of sealer finishing it off. Easy and it was actually fun to see the difference it made.

If the inside of the original glass can still be polished out, it can easily be resealed and you keep the original tint shade without throwing a ton of money at it. Just saying...

Jason, I am not familiar with the test procedures but I think to remember seeing their YouTube video way back when I was looking at getting the first pair. Anyway, each panel comes with its individual test sheet and they all indicated a little over 200w. (I wish I knew where they got filed away...)I do not expect to get that in real life ever but thought it was worth the few dollars extra. There are 3 pairs for sale right now at his eBay store and you can ask him, he was pretty quick to reply to me in the past through eBay questions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-200-25-Watt-12-Volt-Battery-Charger-Solar-Panel-Off-Grid-RV-Boat-400-25-W/264459865692?hash=item3d93094e5c:g:GMAAAOSwbWZacTa~

I doubt your input speed sensor trouble would have a direct effect on the engine temp. Don't know about your engine but it should have its own speed sensor. Input speed is primarily used for gear selection along with output speed sensor readings. If the tranny was in a wrong gear, you would know. What would worry me, with our ISM, is the engine RPM. I would not run it at 2000 or more going up hill, way past the power curve in my case. Granted, it moves a lot of coolant but also produces more heat and no more power. Worst case, I drop to 4th gear and manage the RPM even if it means going slow. If the tranny needs to go lower, it will. I don't think I ever had to go lower than 4th, manually, to keep the temp in check. Yes, I did overheat once and it makes me sick every time I look at the only entry in Engine Protection tab in Insite that reminds me of it. It only lasted 8s and happened while in cruise and me not even realizing that we are on a very long slight incline. That was many hundreds of engine hours ago and I am much more careful now.

Notice that the ones I bought tested a little higher than 200W, this is why I got them for few extra $ to hopefully get the most from our limited space. Otherwise the price is the same as your source for regular 200W panels, same thing.

There are already manufacturers supplying this kind of device for government vehicles and military for years.They are available for commercial trucks and emergency vehicles around the world already. I would assume, they went through some extreme testing to be approved for government vehicle use. These people take care of themselves and therefore, I think, I would trust their source. But there is a lot of secrecy and I don't think you can get any of this information out of them. The motorhome market is just too small for them to care. IMO, That's where rettroband is reinventing the wheel at a much higher price just because they know that many will pay whatever they ask while going through some initial setbacks.

There was a recent post in July by @hweyrich@wowway.com who was looking for an image and I think he got it from Five-Star Freightliner in Dothan, AL. Maybe he will chime in or you could contact him. Sorry about your trouble.

Shouldn't he just reload the original image saved before any changes were made? I would think he had it saved. There's your template. BTW, changing parameters to fix something that used to work makes no sense to me, they don't just change by themselves.

Try this, I have contacted him through eBay when I wanted one of the better ones and he let me know when it was posted if there wasn't one listed already.. https://www.ebay.com/str/Hightec-Solar-Inc?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Sounds great, John. We have the same configuration and I am wondering if you had to do anything to keep the AH working with the new thermostat? Thanks.

I am using 200+ watt panels from a company selling on eBay. This was my 4th panel. They come with warranty and a test chart. Once a while he sells some that tested well over 200w and that's what I get. They are 12v, perfect for my serial setup. The company is High-tech Solar, I think in Michigan, no complaints.

This looks very bad, what I am missing in the horrific picture is any sign of metal framing for the house.

If all else fails, you might try here: http://busrvparts.com/Bus-Elect_Wipers.htm

I agree with Coach Glass feedback above. I paid a little extra to have them come to my shop because our coach was stripped down for frontal paint and level and stationery after the install. They also included the sealer they like to use, in the window crate. More tubes than was needed. Insurance company cut me a check beforehand and Coach Glass beat it nicely. All good a year later.

Thank you, I suppose you don't have the solid state isolator in your case and that changes things.

Do you know the voltage reading directly at batteries with it running and does your coach use solid state isolator (diodes)? And does it have a tach wire?

Jim, that sure looks like a project. Ours is a totally different configuration, all the hvac system up front, with exception of the accumulator/drier is behind the firewall and I would have to remove the whole dash to get to it. Already had to replace an expansion valve once but did not go inside the actual box. Seems like you might have better acces to remove the plastic housing but rusty sheet metal screws are no fun, soak them good first. I think you have no choice unless you can reach in through the duct door and feel the drain hole - it should open when you push on it but looks kinda rusty. I would suspect floating debree blocking the hole, since you hear the water sloshing around but still is dripping through the hose. I don't really know if there is a filter, ours looks just like a foam seal on the outside of the flap. And I would not expect anything but the evaporator and heater core behind the cover, fan on the inside portion of the box and couple more duct doors. Seem the door is opening in a way that you may not be able to reach in enough but an inspection camera might work to get an idea what's happening in there.

There should be a hose hanging down from the evaporator area. You say it is draining good but obviously not. The hose may be partially plugged, on mine there is some sort of a plastic nsert that was plugged at the end of the hose. You may want to clean the hose with a piece of wire. That "silver valve" is a vacuum actuator that opens air duct door, should close it for Max Cool setting.

Your tach is getting signal from stator of the alternator. Check connections on its back side. Also a connector for the duvac, relay and tach wires that should be close to it. Unless there is a physical connection issue, your alternator quit. I had that same thing happen. Rebuild it or replace with exact same part number. Mine had just a visibly broken wire between the collector ring and rotor winding and was easy to fix after taking it apart. I was on the road trip when it happened and had to make it to our next stop. Jumped house to chassis batteries and kept going with generator running until I could fix the alternator. Most of your other problems are likely just symptoms. Oil pressure gauge is likely fed from a sender that might be bad but not used by the ECM. I would leave it alone until your power is restored to the cluster and see if it corrects itself. I just replaced ours recently while changing oil too because it tried to go around the corner. ECM is using a different sender. If you had scangauge or similar, you would see the ECM readings. Check the chassis battery for correct voltage, it feeds the ECM. Your rusted breaker ( whatever it is for) for continuity and replace if bad or when possible if still working. Your solid state battery isolator should not backfeed the alternator but could show voltage on the center post if the alternator end of the connection is open, be it connection or alternator fault. Eventually check the alt relay, ours was melted but not causing problems other than not signaling when the failure happened. Enjoy the adventure, it's not gonna be that bad at the end.

If it is like mine, drain the air, push the hose in, hold the little ring where it pushed in and pull on the hose. Then just push the hose into the new one. If the hose does not go in anymore, pull the ring towards the body of the valve and pull the hose..

I would say that unless you can get someone to come and scan the current codes for you for cheap, you might as well invest in scangauge d or similar and have it with you for the future. That is my philosophy and what I did, scangauge always on and recently added insite if more info needed. There is no telling if you got an other code in the meantime.

Thank you Chris, that's good news for me when the time comes.

How much taller are the Penguin II compared to the old ones? That might pose a problem for me too in the future with my current 12' door...

Don't know if anyone can tell you that exactly, other than what is says in the manual, I think mine says around 4 pounds. I did not care about the amount but went by the pressures. Kept high pressure around 200 psi in Texas summer, low pressure port reads a bit low but it's a long distance from the evaporator. If I had access to the evaporator, I would measure temp there but will not take the dash off for that. It blows cold, we have to turn the vents away from us up front. Its been a while and I had no need to change anything.

There is a NAPA store in Edmonton where you can get their 12 and 6v batteries that should have warranty at any Napa store across the border, I assume but to be confirmed with them.