Ivan K

Seems that they learned from the mobley rollout. If the timeout is really based on GPS position, that would be a tough one for a stationary use. GPS frequency is just between two LTE bands so even if it worked with the GPS signal somehow blocked, it'll be hard to do without blocking the LTE data stream as well. If the position is calculated from the cell signal, it'll be near impossible as it is calculated from signal delays to sites around you, which is going to be constant when stationary. Unless someone comes with a software hack to disable the timeout, assuming the timeout actually happens in the unit and not at the service providers equipment...

If fish tape is not a solution and if the bundle is loose enough to fit an other wire or two, I would see if I can use one of the existing wires to hook and tape the new cable and a string (or an extra wire if feasible) to it at the destination side, pull them back and then use the string to pull the existing wire back to where it was. Hope it makes sense...

Loren, the frictions are glued to the backing plates, there are no rivets or anything else mechanical to keep them attached. The originals were the same. Honestly, it did not even cross my mind to grease the backing plates, I do it on passenger cars and trucks but these are just so massive and tight with spring mechanism to hold them in the cast grooves and Meritor manual does not call for it either. The diagonal movement is supposed to be checked to be no more than 0.015 each direction so hardly any movement. BTW, the pads weigh more than 20lbs per axle.

Mission accomplished. New rotor, pads and seals installed. This is some back breaking big boys stuff. Besides that, very doable with proper tools. Here are the part numbers for this specific Rockwell drive axle model with disk brakes. Rear seal National #370003A Pads # KIT15625PM Rotor # 3218-K-167 Outer bearing cone Timken 590 + cup Inner bearing cone Timken 594a +cup

Thanks for the detail, Woody. We use mobley with a Nanostation repeater all the time on the road and at home and happy with it when there is any signal. Sounds like you found a good alternative option for just few bucks more.

Woody, can you elaborate how Harman Spark will have a better signal than the old mobley? Just wondering since it looks like just an other obd2 dongle as far as 4g reception goes. Or maybe I misread it and you don't have the mobley. Either way, I hope it works for you but really don't see how it can have better data reception than your phone.

Thanks Mike, according to Meritor and based on a model number that luckily was still on a plate still attached to the housing, the rotor number is 3218K167. I did check the website you mentioned but then got it locally today for less, when including shipping cost to TX. NAPA next day pickup with truckers discount $322+T... I figured that way I have a chance to return it if the part# was wrong. I am getting pads from Van Horn, when they arrive with ground shipping, almost half price compared to local source. May take a week to get them from NJ but there's never shortage of other things to do in the meantime. Tomorrow I get a chance to practice axle removal as you described earlier, funny how timely it was as I never planned on it at that time 😀

Thanks Loren, I called Rockwell/Meritor today and they were eventually able to identify the part number for me. The only local place I could find with it in stock is NAPA but with my AITA discount it works out to be not much worse than elsewhere plus shipping and wait. That thing is like 70lbs. Yeah, the rotor is toast, cracked at the mounting flange, not the friction surface. Someone dropped an extra washer where it wasn't supposed to be, between the hub and the flange on one lug... I am a second owner and seriously doubt it was ever replaced before my time so I suspect it was like that from the factory. The caliper and sliders/bushings look fine so I think I just leave them, it all moves fine. Just a new hub seal. Yeah, well over 100k on it tho. When I'm done, I'll send the #s to Frank. Thanks for your reply.

I don't know how you feel about getting into the guts of the controller but often a part like a relay can be cheaply sourced and replaced. I have seen relay pins unsoldering themselves from the board when the contacts spark and burn, like in the AH controller for instance. Given that all the headlight power goes through that one relay in your case, it might be a possibility.

Best I could do, don't have much light in this corner of the shop. It is the big blue finned box at the left. You may not have it since it is considered an old technology.

Don't know if you might have a battery isolator in the rear but if you do, I would check for 0 volts at the center post with engine off to confirm that it isn't back feeding the alternator.

Anyone knows of a good/preferred source for Meritor ADB1560 brake pads and rotor? I'll call Meritor tomorrow to try to identify the disk part number unless someone already knows what it is. Not in our parts list yet. Got a couple of hits for the pads but nothing locally to DFW area yet. I have it already apart so driving it to a repair shop is not a good option plus I want to do it myself, seeing how someone messed the disk up, likely on initial install. Thanks.

Push the line in, hold the metal ring that moves with the line in and pull the line out. To reconnect, just push the line in.

Wifi camera/phone with thermometer in its view does it for us. Not that we use it much at all because the dogs are always with us. There is hardly ever a phone signal on the trails we take so it is of limited use for us.

One thing to consider, for me, is that many dash cams have an autosave and protect feature to retain current file on impact. In case one forgets or is unable to stop it from being eventually overwritten after a mishap. There are sensitivity settings to prevent saving every bump in the road. Some have batteries and some have capacitors with enough juice to save the active file in case of a catastrophic power cutoff. Capacitor is supposed to be safer in hot conditions where the camera is often mounted but needs to have an external power source for normal operation. Details details... don't know if any GoPro can do that.

Mine does the same thing and always has so I considered it normal. If it was equalizing, it would say that on the display, I believe.

There are so many choices with pretty much the same nice features but the ones I like are GPS data recording and an active hdmi output so that I can put it on the front TV if we have a family traveling with us on occasion so they can see what I see. Next one will have wifi connectivity too. I use an old iPhone with a camera app to monitor the interior and/or dogs while we are away sometimes.

Just a note about the VIP headlamp influence, and maybe Jim can verify it with the same coach as yours. The VIP can turn off low beams when pushed in (or broken) but has no impact or any connection to high beams, not in my 2000 implementation. Depending on the result it may or may not be eliminated as a potential suspect.

When you say "lever", do you mean the touch button on top of the smart wheel or the turn signal lever/dimmer? One more thing, if you have a remote for your door lock and if it used to flash the lights, does it still do that? That system should be bypassing your light switch and the low/high beam selector lever and should give an additional pointer. It is strange that you do not have low nor high beams because they are pretty much independent with separate relays and fuses (breakers in my case). The only common points that I can see is the main light switch, low/high selector switch and a power bus feeding the fuses/breakers and possibly a ground connection at the lights and relays. If you can hear/feel the high beam relays click, I would go and check for power on the relay's hot side and the corresponding bus. If the relays don't click, I would try to confirm power at the headlight switch again and out of the switch through the low/high selector lever to the relays. You may not even have a low beam relay so that would point back to the switch and selector. All my headlight relays and breakers are in the front bay and the bus is fed from RRB. But like I said, the remote control test and steering wheel flash button would bypass the switch and the selector. I don't know your coach so things could be different in some ways...

An other thought, if you can flash the headlights from your Smart wheel (left top button on mine), that would also confirm ground presence at the bulb without going under the bus...at least that's how it works on ours.

Can you check at the bulb connector? Maybe you have positive 12v but no ground going to them? Could be, since it appears that both low and high beams don't work and they would be on different relays.

My paint codes were included with all the documentation for installed appliances in the coach. But if not there, here may be be an option - About a year ago I called Veurinks RV in search of some collision repair parts and while talking to a nice lady on the other side, she offered to send me paint codes for my specific coach VIN. I did not need it but obviously she had an access to it. Worth a try if Monaco does not help you out. I had the 4 colors mixed at local English Color in TX for a great match.

Tom, if you have 2 solenoids controlled by the salesman switch, one of them may be on its way out and the switch is still good. Our coach has 2 of them and as many others, I have bypassed them both when an intermittent problem started. Each one controls different parts of the 12v system and that might explain why only front of the coach was effected. They might look similar to this, the front switch provides ground to the coils through a purple wire (that I have disconnected after the "double bypass") at the rear right panel.

Sounds like you got it figured out, great pictures too.

That sounds like a quite extreme measure, do you suspect that the air dryer did not do its job? I never got any water from the wet tank when drained. Even if one of the check valves was stuck partially open, could it cause both leak downs? Getting both stuck at the same time sounds weird, especially in the top tank's wet side that could be probably considered a 'second stage' wet tank. I think, if I wanted to verify the check valves, I would just use a gauge on the dry halves and regulated pressure drop on the wet side port and then maybe the other way around. If the break pedal did not have a leak, there are still quite a few smaller lines up front to the gauge, park break, step slider, horn, vacuum gen and who knows what else you might have there. Some of them should not leak below ~60psi. I know you know that. Personally, I would not even worry about an overnight leak down, as long as my air leveling holds pressure. But I get it, if you want to make it perfect.. BTW, I can't believe how clean your tanks and hoses are after those years.