Ivan K

Any gauges will do, just need the correct fittings for whatever you have. Cheap HF gauges will work for R12 as well as R134, until the hoses fall apart eventually... Are you sure you have R12 in it? That might be hard to find for refill and you may have to convert to R134a. I still have R12 for classic cars but it is priced as gold these days...

The clutch will not activate if refrigerant pressure is low. If you know where your pressure switch is, you might check that it closes when you turn AC on. If not, the pressure is too low or the switch is bad. If you momentarily jump it, the compressor should engage.

So your AC works, 77 degrees in an 54 out, more than 20 degrees drop is what you are looking for. House insulation can't keep up or there is an outside air coming in somewhere. For us, outside winshield cover made a noticeable difference, still just an equivalent of a huge single pane glass but helped.

As an alternative, I use these for big boy tires. Heavy but effective. Then a torque multiplier calibrated to just under 500 ftlb and electronic torque meter to finish it off. If I did not have a real tire changer, I would much prefere changing these big tires over small low profile car tires, that's how easy it is.

You'll have to clear the ABS codes first. Cruise control not working may be a symptom, not a cause of ABS trouble. Since you had the rotors just replaced, the wheel sensor gap would be the first thing to look at, for me anyway.. They can be pushed in from under the bus without removing the wheel and hub. They may have moved back when the hub was being installed and was still wiggly until the bearings are set. The code should tell you which one, just need to find the button... Then test drive. Here is what my button looks like, like a metal ball thingy

I have seen a coach where the ABS button was in the electrical/ fuse bay, FRB, beside the gen slide switch... sounds weird since the lamp is in the dash. Once you find the button, assuming you have Meritor/Rockwell system, here is a basic cheat sheet

Do you have a push button for ABS blink code under the dash in front of left knee where the diagnostic connector are? I had this happen after replacing the rotor and simply needed to push the wheel sensor closer to the tone ring but the blink readout should tell you which wheel or what problem you have. Even reset the light.

Just wondering who had experienced a blowout with the Tyron installed, in real life

The easiest test is to measure temperature of warm air entering the unit and the air leaving the closest duct. If you get even close to 20 degrees drop, the unit works. Opposite to popular belief, the units can be recharged but at least one test port has to be brazed in. Our original units use R22 and I had to recharge one of them after I stupidly cut the line when driving into my garage. I repair car AC systems when home so I had all tools I needed to get it done. Matter of finding someone reasonable and willing to do that on the roof, versus getting a new unit. I like to keep things running if they still can and if it makes sense.

If you turn AC on MAX, it should close the external duct and eliminate the fan as a suspect, assuming the vacuum actuator works.

I assume it is a hydraulic slide. Do you hear the pump motor run when trying to retract? The same pump would operate your generator slide, does that work? It won't work if the contact pins on basement doors under the slide are open or with ignition on, at least on ours. Since you appear to have internet access, you can download 2002 or 2004 manual. For what ever reason, there isn't one for 2003 but I doubt it would be much different. https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2002_Signature.pdf

Hopefully the check valve works real good until you get to it... it looks to me like a factory mess up, hidden behind the washer. The washer was not an option, it came standard with Signatures so nobody might have known about it, I think. I would cap the gray tank pipe just above the T and leave the p-trap in place, in case you want to use it later. A couple of 45 degree elbows would join the black tank pipe to the now available roof vent pipe.

His 42' likely came with Allison 4060 like ours and we do have a long dipstick accessible from inside the bus. But as agreed, it isn't really necessary...

Hey Jim, wow, there is some monkey business going on. I attached a pic of ours. No idea why you would have two vents for gray but I bet that your black vent hose is the one capped by plastic, the middle pipe in your last pic. Someone messed it up because if your gray tank was forward of black, it would have worked out just fine for the washer drain, the second gray 'vent' pipe would be in correct location for the washer. See my pic, it should have been an identical coach. I think you need to do some cutting and re piping there...

Dipstick is only useful to confirm operating level range after a fluid change. If you just replace the amount drained, not really necessarily. Just plug it. Use the touch pad reading to fine tune. I can understand if you want to have everything the way it should be but it may be hard to find a correctly calibrated dipstick to match the tube length. Don't know if Allison keeps track of those. If I had to do that, I would get one of approximate length from a race shop or maybe some truck parts shop and calibrate it myself after the level is correct.

As far as the cost, it came to just under $3K with freight for the set of 4. This was a minimum order (4) so if you could split the 2 pairs and cost with someone else, you'll get a very decent price. That said, I have an extra pair now but it only works with my specific rim profile. Alcoa changed some profiles over time even with the same part number so I had to send a wheel for them to match it. It isn't universal and will not move on the rim sideways as the other potentially could.

I have no idea where the relay might be on your coach but if no one responds, maybe you could try to trace it out with tone tracer from the solenoid connection?

The external sensor looks like this on ours, under all the road dirt. Single wire slide on connector, just like the good old temp sensors.

Hutchinson has been around for ever, making all kinds of runflat inserts. All humvees had them too but they were rubber. Rettroband is Australian and I believe was first available early last year. Like everything RV, the markup must be huge.

My dash temp gauge on Allison 4060 is fed from a sensor on output line to the cooler. Towards front of vehicle, just above the the pan. The pad indicates temperature measured by internal sender, inside the transmission. not accessible externally. If you don't have the external sensor, then everything might be controlled by the internal one. But if you do and both show low temp, then there is something else going on. Hopefully at least the cold measurement through dipstick shows ok?

Or a set of 4 for less than that, custom made by Hutchinson Industries to exactly fit your specific wheel in the USA, used by military and emergency vehicles for years... and no spider tool needed. Bought a used wheel, sent it to them to manufacture the insert. As a side benefit, now I have a complete spare wheel and tire ready to go.

Just a guess but how's your hydraulic fluid? Foaming could cause vibrations but you would feel it even stationary.

Ours looks like this and still works and we use it all the time, just a few minutes to heat up and/or filtered cold water. It runs off the inverted power so I need to remember to turn it off when boondocking or the AGS will kick in. We find it very useful. Just got back from 6k miles of social distancing so cleaning is in order 😎

It looks very nice and clean like if it came from factory. Personal preference but for me the height of typical OEM-like installation is too high for a camping chair. Try it first. Ours is behind the basement door and installation cost near nothing. Wiring was already in place, courtesy of Monaco. This way our neighbors across the country can't so readily complain about our news station preferences. Tailgating will of coarse be a totally different situation with a larger audience.

I use low pressure air to push the oil out of the bucket through a hose. Couple of holes in the screw on cap and it's totally effortless. Buying in bulk might pay for the pump however. 5 gal was just right for the big Rockwell axle and oil bath hubs, delivered to the door by Amazon...