Ivan K

Maybe one of the basement compartment door switches does not make a contact to run the pump?

X2 for the LED conversion. Replaced ours with 12000 lumen bulbs and no longer have to hang on someone's tail just to see where the road goes ahead of us. Hopefully you have your lights fed directly through relays and not through the light switch, even if LEDs were not in your future. I don't plan to drive through the night, it happens here and there for whatever reason and isn't so much of a problem anymore.

If you have individual light housings for each of the lights like we do and the ground (White wire) is daisy chained from one to an other, check for a bad connection at each point. I had that happen and it was confusing the way the lights interacted at first.

Thanks for the info, Bob.

Bob, is it 8% over the rated Voc? Do you know at what temp the panels supposed to be tested or is there no standard?

This would probably deserve a new post but as a quick pointer, I would check its fuse in FRB and then the other end of your touchpad cable at the controller. Mine is in a storage bay ceiling right behind fuel tank, passenger side and when you open it (aluminum box), you should see some LEDs lit. The cable likes to shake off of its connector.

I wish I was wrong but the controllers amperage size applies to the downstream current after conversion from PV (solar) power to the 12V (or whatever charging stage voltage) down to the batteries. Like your 800W PV expectation will convert to 66.6A at 12V from controller to batteries, in theory. In other words, you would feed the batteries with 66.6A as opposed to the controllers 40A rating. 66.6A x 12V ~ 800W. It does not matter parallel or serial, it's the total power (W) that converts to amperes at battery voltage. Maybe it makes more sense to say that the Amp rating is referencing max output current of the controller?

In ideal conditions, your 800W would produce 57A down to the batteries at roughly 14V charging voltage. That's more than 40A controller should do. Having said that, I have this setup but in series and no ideal conditions expected. Might have to upgrade eventually.

Roy, as you see, there are different opinions, your choice which way to go. Here is my way... My windows originally had aluminum spacer filled with desiccant granules, obviously depleted after years of humid air between the panes. The huge driver side window was the worst. At the beginning of trouble, I drilled small holes through the weep holes and between the panes to insert tubing to the top and bottom and filled the space with alcohol to clean the inside and it worked for a season. Just a desperate temporary fix before a trip, futile in long term. Anyway, you have to be the judge as far as how bad the etching is on the inside. Jeff mentioned CLR to remove the scale and it never crossed my mind at that time, he certainly knows much more what he is talking about. I used 3M micropolishing compound with an air buffer which is normally used for clear coat cutting. Final cleaning with "Invisible glass" from a spray can to make is super clean. If the compound wasn't enough, there are more aggressive methods like one sold by Eastwood to restore scratched windshields on classic cars where replacement is not possible. I have not used it. The spacer I posted earlier is really a pleasure to work with. It can be shaped any way you want to and it sticks to the bottom glass until you are ready to close it up. Only the outer glass is tinted so put it on the correct side. AND, it contains desiccant so it isn't just a dumb spacer as some might think. Obviously, you assemble it in a climate controlled room and keep the rest of the spacer in its aluminized bag. There is a PDF with tech specs on that site. To do the final sealing, I used the recommended sealant, in pic above. It cured overnight. Almost 4 tubes for 4 windows and would recommend getting their Sealant Guide attachment of proper size to make it nice and consistent all around the edge. My spacer was 3/16 thick. I use air operated caulk gun, set at 5PSI. Makes it easier with big windows but not necessary. Good luck which ever way you decide. For me, I have all the tools you would expect in a full service auto restoration shop so it was a no brainer to do it myself. Besides, I have other hobbies to spend money on.

Scotty, if you can manage removing the window frame then you can do the rest. Everything that I needed came from the place below, you just probably should measure the spacer size on a sliding part of one of your windows where you have access to it. https://www.dkhardware.com/black-3-16-wide-x-3-16-thick-edgetech-super-spacer-66-roll-ss31666bl-product-77197.html

For anyone potentially considering DIY resealing of their existing glass panes, here is what worked for me. All that was really needed is a razor blade, polisher, spacer tape and caulk gun (with optional tip adapter) for the sealant. I have done both front side windows (3 piece driver and door) and a sliding window some 3 years back and have no problems to date, which is not always true even with professional repairs. The spacer tape already contains desiccant and has sealing properties on its own with the tube of sealer finishing it off. Easy and it was actually fun to see the difference it made.

If the inside of the original glass can still be polished out, it can easily be resealed and you keep the original tint shade without throwing a ton of money at it. Just saying...

Jason, I am not familiar with the test procedures but I think to remember seeing their YouTube video way back when I was looking at getting the first pair. Anyway, each panel comes with its individual test sheet and they all indicated a little over 200w. (I wish I knew where they got filed away...)I do not expect to get that in real life ever but thought it was worth the few dollars extra. There are 3 pairs for sale right now at his eBay store and you can ask him, he was pretty quick to reply to me in the past through eBay questions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-200-25-Watt-12-Volt-Battery-Charger-Solar-Panel-Off-Grid-RV-Boat-400-25-W/264459865692?hash=item3d93094e5c:g:GMAAAOSwbWZacTa~

I doubt your input speed sensor trouble would have a direct effect on the engine temp. Don't know about your engine but it should have its own speed sensor. Input speed is primarily used for gear selection along with output speed sensor readings. If the tranny was in a wrong gear, you would know. What would worry me, with our ISM, is the engine RPM. I would not run it at 2000 or more going up hill, way past the power curve in my case. Granted, it moves a lot of coolant but also produces more heat and no more power. Worst case, I drop to 4th gear and manage the RPM even if it means going slow. If the tranny needs to go lower, it will. I don't think I ever had to go lower than 4th, manually, to keep the temp in check. Yes, I did overheat once and it makes me sick every time I look at the only entry in Engine Protection tab in Insite that reminds me of it. It only lasted 8s and happened while in cruise and me not even realizing that we are on a very long slight incline. That was many hundreds of engine hours ago and I am much more careful now.

Notice that the ones I bought tested a little higher than 200W, this is why I got them for few extra $ to hopefully get the most from our limited space. Otherwise the price is the same as your source for regular 200W panels, same thing.

There are already manufacturers supplying this kind of device for government vehicles and military for years.They are available for commercial trucks and emergency vehicles around the world already. I would assume, they went through some extreme testing to be approved for government vehicle use. These people take care of themselves and therefore, I think, I would trust their source. But there is a lot of secrecy and I don't think you can get any of this information out of them. The motorhome market is just too small for them to care. IMO, That's where rettroband is reinventing the wheel at a much higher price just because they know that many will pay whatever they ask while going through some initial setbacks.

There was a recent post in July by @hweyrich@wowway.com who was looking for an image and I think he got it from Five-Star Freightliner in Dothan, AL. Maybe he will chime in or you could contact him. Sorry about your trouble.

Shouldn't he just reload the original image saved before any changes were made? I would think he had it saved. There's your template. BTW, changing parameters to fix something that used to work makes no sense to me, they don't just change by themselves.

Try this, I have contacted him through eBay when I wanted one of the better ones and he let me know when it was posted if there wasn't one listed already.. https://www.ebay.com/str/Hightec-Solar-Inc?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Sounds great, John. We have the same configuration and I am wondering if you had to do anything to keep the AH working with the new thermostat? Thanks.

I am using 200+ watt panels from a company selling on eBay. This was my 4th panel. They come with warranty and a test chart. Once a while he sells some that tested well over 200w and that's what I get. They are 12v, perfect for my serial setup. The company is High-tech Solar, I think in Michigan, no complaints.

This looks very bad, what I am missing in the horrific picture is any sign of metal framing for the house.

If all else fails, you might try here: http://busrvparts.com/Bus-Elect_Wipers.htm

I agree with Coach Glass feedback above. I paid a little extra to have them come to my shop because our coach was stripped down for frontal paint and level and stationery after the install. They also included the sealer they like to use, in the window crate. More tubes than was needed. Insurance company cut me a check beforehand and Coach Glass beat it nicely. All good a year later.

Thank you, I suppose you don't have the solid state isolator in your case and that changes things.