Ivan K

Not everything on the internet is true. This is from consumer reports, probably believable. Whether the DOT sticker is real or fake is an other story. Automakers have embraced light emitting diodes (LEDs) in headlights, and their use is becoming more widespread. At Consumer Reports, 55 percent of the 2018 models we tested had LED headlights. Of the 2019 models we've tested, 86 percent had LEDs.

I did not have that problem so all I can say is theoretical... my first quess would be a bad regulator but that assumes that the Duvac source (positive) is connected to correct sense terminal and that the regulator sense wire inside is also connected to the same correct terminal. If you trip a 20A breaker/fuse, that's some serious current and there could be a short at the inside terminal wiring or the post bolt itself could be grounded. Easy to test and check by lifting the regulator. You say that you are on your third alternator, I suppose the regulator has not been reused but the posts could be switched around, shorted or mislabeled?

LEDs are now relatively cheap enough to try. If you can't get projector lights, they will not make it worse and will beat your old stock halogen lamp any time, new or old housing as long as you have space to install them. I got 12.000 lumens lamps for a daylight in front of me at any time of day.

There's no good easy way to do invisible spot repair with clear coat. No matter what, the repair will show up sooner or later in contrast to the old clear. There are melting thinners in a can that help to mend the new clear into an old one that make it look better after buffing out the transition but you are still better off to spray the whole area between body lines where the border will get somewhat hidden to an eye. The faded base coat will still be visible if you don't respray it also. The prep labor takes more time than spraying it. The thing is that if you just 'fix' one little spot, an other one will show up soon anyway in those sun blasted areas. If you can live with it, you can use a clear coat can, just pick one that is made up of two parts, like from an auto refinishing shop, even online. Don't expect an invisible repair and you may have to kill the new shine a little to mach it too. Still better than 'bold spots' after the sun eats the base coat too.

Great deal, Steve, glad it was that easy.

Thank you, Jim, I'll look into it.

Sorry about switching the subject but seems this discussion is about done and I would like to learn more about the above mentioned automatic gen start based on temperature. Is it something that would work regardless of having a Trace RC7GS already in place or is it Magnum specific? Thanks.

Steve, if you have the same Pos-a-Lock mechanism, the upper lock is released by door handle and yes, there is a cable between those two. Either the cable gave up, stretched or unhooked or a spot weld holding the arm to vertical shaft going down inside the door broke. I had that broken weld happen. Easy fix if you have a welder handy, just weld in correct position the first time.... If this is the case, mark the arm and shaft before removing it and the original weld mark should help too. The whole arm assembly can be removed and lifted out of the door relatively easily and the cable unplugged to work on the assembly outside of the door. It's been few years and no problem anymore. Good luck, it is awesome when it works.

I have not replaced ours since they looked good and were not leaking prior to removal due to glass fogging. Seems yours are leaking so that's different. Is it possible that your inside screws might just need tightening? I would have replaced them if I had them handy tho. Personally, I do not use butyl tape on parts that may have to be taken out in the future but it certainly will work.

I take a guess that you are talking about a seal between the assembled side window frame and the outside wall. Ours has a ribbed flat rubber strip between the window frame and outside wall, sticking to the window frame but not the wall. You can not see or replace it without removing the whole window. For visual reference, the same strip is used to seal our engine hatch, may or may not be same on yours. Then the perimeter of the outside frame is sealed by Proflex and that's what makes it totally sealed. Disregard if you are talking about a different window or window seal as there are multiple seals in the assembly...

Our RC7GS was randomly ticking like you describe when we purchased the coach second hand. No resets would make it stop until I replaced it. It also had troubles turning on the invertor at that time. It had nothing to do with an extension cord.

I learned śomething, thought they were a thing of the past even in those years. Ours has drums only at the tag and because there is a single wheel, they are relatively easily inspected from behind.

Do you really have drum brakes in the front? I suspect not. The picture above shows a type of spring brake that would be on your drive axle, not in the front. Assuming you have a disk brake up front, I would check the caliper sliders for easy movement. If stuck or slow to back off of the rotor after you release the brakes, that could be your problem. For that you would have to back off the automatic slack adjuster and check the movement. In this situation, one of the pads would wear more than the other. I thought we all have automatic adjusters but don't know it for fact. They need to be greased too and should not cause a drag but a slow response, longer shaft travel, if not functional. There is a number of grease points on each brake to help them move in and out smoothly. I know you said that they were checked but was the caliper movement that inspected too? It takes some effort to do but jacking up the wheel and reproducing your issue should not be hard.

My first quess would be the salesman solenoid in the rear of the coach. Could also be a bad battery switch if your invertor is bypassing it. You say that there is voltage at the cutoff switch up front, that should be the case when the switch is off but should have ground on both sides when activated. The salesman solenoid in the rear should have 12v on both big posts when activated. If not, bypass it or move one cable to bypass it and see. btw, the generator could be started from chassis batteries, ours is. Seems to vary with different coaches.

Granville, I used the schedule listing in manual. It's been couple of years already. Valve lash settings are in engine manual. Mine is an Isuzu and I can look it up for you if needed. Most involved part was the bearing and collector/brush replacement and I got some pics how I pulled them off from that time if it would help. All the parts were readily available. I have not touched the injectors since the Engine runs just fine.

Romeo84, in your Sig, the vacuum generator should be just under the vacuum reservoir in Front run bay just like ours.

If that sound is coming from rear of the generator, it could be fan blades touching on ABS shroud that could have cracked and deflected. Hard to tell from the sample but you might be able to tell if it sounds like that. As far as the valves and injectors, anyone willing to open the top cover can do it. This is not a Cummins engine but just a little 3 cylinder Isuzu or Kubota. Super easy and quick once you gain access. I had to take the top, rear and side covers off for 3000 hour maintenance which includes much more.

One more thing you may want to have checked out besides the LR leak is plumbing of your aux compressor. If it is plumbed like ours to directly feed the big air tanks, it will not have the capacity to fill them from empty before timing out. The factory messed it up on ours but since we have no major leaks, it did not bother me enough to fix it yet. If your configuration includes a small auxiliary tank just for leveling, this would not apply.

I would start by looking for a leak in left rear as that's where it seems to be dropping. If there isn't more than at least around 65 PSI in your tanks, the compressor should kick in when that airbag is near empty but it may not be able to keep up and the system quits after 20 or so minutes of trying. It should turn on the red 'excess slope' light at that point too.

Do the yellow lights on touchpad correspond to your visual observation? When it shuts off, does your red 'excess slope" light come on? Can you ever hear the new compressor to run? From your description it would seem that there is a leak in your driver rear corner but if you are on a level ground, the coach should just keep lowering until it sits level on bump stops. Just to be sure, we are talking about air leveling, correct?

Wow, that sounds like a lot of expense with no resolution. At least some of it is good preventative maintenance, like the airbag replacement. There isn't much left other than hoses and fittings. Seems that they don't suspect the controller taking it out of level and you would likely know if it did, like if the sensor was flaky. Once leveled and all the valves with new o-rings are closed, the only things in play are the hoses/fittings to your new airbags. You could be more descriptive in how exactly does it get out of level, left-right, front-rear, can you hear the valves opening when it happens or is it over time.

I would be curious to know if you find any kind of voltage drop across this breaker, if you will use it. I don't see where it states what kind of breaker it is.

Not even from the rear start switch? Does the ignition ON allow for dash blower to run? I have a different coach so just a wild guess at zooming at the issue. I have an ignition solenoid in FRB that looks just like the salesman switch and was just as intermittent at one time.

Slobber catch can comes in tons of variations. Some with fancy filter on top to prevent dirty air to be sucked back in, there is no reason to filter blowby air on a diesel as it would never be sucked back in, so there can be just a simple down hose. Usually used when there is excessive blowby to prevent it from dripping oil, hopefully not his case. Just google it. And yes, there would be a provision to drain the oil which is not visible in the picture.

We carry a complete mounted tire for the rig. Large and heavy but it is ready to go just in case.