Ivan K

I use an other type of moisture detector in the house and under toilet vacuum breaker and sink in the coach. Already paid for itself when vacuum breaker in the wall started to give up. No name but works great with the remote wired sensor "strategically" placed.

I got similar lights from ebay a couple of years ago super cheap it to try. They were at only couple of dimes each so I took a chance. Anyway, they work fine with the dimmer, with only hardly noticeable flicker at the lowest setting which we don't use anyway. My point is, you will likely have to shorten the legs and remove the plastic spacer to get them centered. They are not easy to insert and you will likely break some of the pins from the board. Account for it. This is why I only replaced the ones we use most... here and there I replace some more but it is a PITA. Maybe I try to file the shortened pins a little next time, just not exited about it. To help with not breaking the legs, I put a drop of epoxy over the connections and it helps some.

This parking brake sensor issue would effect our air leveling system just as hydraulic so it is a useful information for anyone.

I can't help with a recommendation since our rig never was in any shops but has anyone told you to manually downshift when going into a longer uphill? While you might have a real cooling issue, running at higher (but safe) rpm will circulate the coolant faster. Works for me just fine.

Hi Jim, since your piping should be the same or similar to ours and since you confirm that the vent pipes are clear as you have probably done by running water from a hose down the vents without them filling back up, I would suspect the external septic system. IFthe tank vents are in fact clear, I don't really understand how the external faucet would have any impact. Maybe be just a coincidence? Yes, the toilet would supply the displacement air while open but it would not be necessary with a clear vent pipe. I would turn my attention to the septic system. Good luck with this crappy situation!

I suspect that you are looking for this part that in the picture. Unless you need the whole thing, I would do just as John said and use an aluminum tape from HW store. You will need to recalibrate the controller either way and that's the tricky part...

I suppose your park brake switch works. Don't know if your compartment door switches are in play for the gen slide like they would be for a slideout? Of course testing for power at the motor would be your definitive test.

Is your propane tank behind the door that can't be locked? If so, ours also can't be locked and I always thought it was to make it accessible in an emergency.

I don't know if your tv's USB port can play straight video signal from your laptop but there are USB to HDMI adaptors that should work. I haven't used a laptop since I retired but used to have an adapter for hdmi port and it worked fine.

I think I would first try to figure out why house battery drops along with chassis batteries while starting. Maybe you use the boost function or have the solenoid or isolator malfunctioning? Once I understand that part, battery test (at the batteries) would be in order. Either the readings are wrong because of bad connections or the alternator can't keep up with bad batteries. BTW, the regulator is replaceable at top rear of the L-N alternator but I would not jump to conclusions until I know what's going on with the batteries. I don't know your coach but starting the engine would not normally drain a house bank unless you want to. The batteries could be weak and what you see after charging may just be a surface charge.

Seems that they learned from the mobley rollout. If the timeout is really based on GPS position, that would be a tough one for a stationary use. GPS frequency is just between two LTE bands so even if it worked with the GPS signal somehow blocked, it'll be hard to do without blocking the LTE data stream as well. If the position is calculated from the cell signal, it'll be near impossible as it is calculated from signal delays to sites around you, which is going to be constant when stationary. Unless someone comes with a software hack to disable the timeout, assuming the timeout actually happens in the unit and not at the service providers equipment...

If fish tape is not a solution and if the bundle is loose enough to fit an other wire or two, I would see if I can use one of the existing wires to hook and tape the new cable and a string (or an extra wire if feasible) to it at the destination side, pull them back and then use the string to pull the existing wire back to where it was. Hope it makes sense...

Loren, the frictions are glued to the backing plates, there are no rivets or anything else mechanical to keep them attached. The originals were the same. Honestly, it did not even cross my mind to grease the backing plates, I do it on passenger cars and trucks but these are just so massive and tight with spring mechanism to hold them in the cast grooves and Meritor manual does not call for it either. The diagonal movement is supposed to be checked to be no more than 0.015 each direction so hardly any movement. BTW, the pads weigh more than 20lbs per axle.

Mission accomplished. New rotor, pads and seals installed. This is some back breaking big boys stuff. Besides that, very doable with proper tools. Here are the part numbers for this specific Rockwell drive axle model with disk brakes. Rear seal National #370003A Pads # KIT15625PM Rotor # 3218-K-167 Outer bearing cone Timken 590 + cup Inner bearing cone Timken 594a +cup

Thanks for the detail, Woody. We use mobley with a Nanostation repeater all the time on the road and at home and happy with it when there is any signal. Sounds like you found a good alternative option for just few bucks more.

Woody, can you elaborate how Harman Spark will have a better signal than the old mobley? Just wondering since it looks like just an other obd2 dongle as far as 4g reception goes. Or maybe I misread it and you don't have the mobley. Either way, I hope it works for you but really don't see how it can have better data reception than your phone.

Thanks Mike, according to Meritor and based on a model number that luckily was still on a plate still attached to the housing, the rotor number is 3218K167. I did check the website you mentioned but then got it locally today for less, when including shipping cost to TX. NAPA next day pickup with truckers discount $322+T... I figured that way I have a chance to return it if the part# was wrong. I am getting pads from Van Horn, when they arrive with ground shipping, almost half price compared to local source. May take a week to get them from NJ but there's never shortage of other things to do in the meantime. Tomorrow I get a chance to practice axle removal as you described earlier, funny how timely it was as I never planned on it at that time 😀

Thanks Loren, I called Rockwell/Meritor today and they were eventually able to identify the part number for me. The only local place I could find with it in stock is NAPA but with my AITA discount it works out to be not much worse than elsewhere plus shipping and wait. That thing is like 70lbs. Yeah, the rotor is toast, cracked at the mounting flange, not the friction surface. Someone dropped an extra washer where it wasn't supposed to be, between the hub and the flange on one lug... I am a second owner and seriously doubt it was ever replaced before my time so I suspect it was like that from the factory. The caliper and sliders/bushings look fine so I think I just leave them, it all moves fine. Just a new hub seal. Yeah, well over 100k on it tho. When I'm done, I'll send the #s to Frank. Thanks for your reply.

I don't know how you feel about getting into the guts of the controller but often a part like a relay can be cheaply sourced and replaced. I have seen relay pins unsoldering themselves from the board when the contacts spark and burn, like in the AH controller for instance. Given that all the headlight power goes through that one relay in your case, it might be a possibility.

Best I could do, don't have much light in this corner of the shop. It is the big blue finned box at the left. You may not have it since it is considered an old technology.

Don't know if you might have a battery isolator in the rear but if you do, I would check for 0 volts at the center post with engine off to confirm that it isn't back feeding the alternator.

Anyone knows of a good/preferred source for Meritor ADB1560 brake pads and rotor? I'll call Meritor tomorrow to try to identify the disk part number unless someone already knows what it is. Not in our parts list yet. Got a couple of hits for the pads but nothing locally to DFW area yet. I have it already apart so driving it to a repair shop is not a good option plus I want to do it myself, seeing how someone messed the disk up, likely on initial install. Thanks.

Push the line in, hold the metal ring that moves with the line in and pull the line out. To reconnect, just push the line in.

Wifi camera/phone with thermometer in its view does it for us. Not that we use it much at all because the dogs are always with us. There is hardly ever a phone signal on the trails we take so it is of limited use for us.

One thing to consider, for me, is that many dash cams have an autosave and protect feature to retain current file on impact. In case one forgets or is unable to stop it from being eventually overwritten after a mishap. There are sensitivity settings to prevent saving every bump in the road. Some have batteries and some have capacitors with enough juice to save the active file in case of a catastrophic power cutoff. Capacitor is supposed to be safer in hot conditions where the camera is often mounted but needs to have an external power source for normal operation. Details details... don't know if any GoPro can do that.